Mike

iTrader: (1)

Given that the OP is planning on tracking, I wouldn't recommend running Osiris. I'd also go for injectors with a better spray pattern. As stated before, most people that drive "hard" or "spirited" are not pushing their car anywhere close to the degree it would be pushed on track. We're talking 20 minutes of back to back WOT.

As for coilovers, KW V3 and Tein Monoflex are ultimately street products that don't belong on track. I'm thinking JRZ/Ohlins/AST/Sachs/Penske level product. I 100% guarantee you off-the-shelf stuff can't handle 500whp, let alone 350.

And, as I stated, 30k is what I would budget for a build like this, not what the OP would budget. I'd also have a 10k oh **** fund lying around, just in case.

40k car + 30k build isn't unrealistic at all. The car will STILL not be at GT-R/Carrera turbo/Z06 performance levels.

DPE G

iTrader: (19)

the 30k is rediculous, that is by far a huge over estimation.

I would say for a good start for FI from a stock standpoint would be

GTM or Stillen SC - 6,000 +/-
Fast Intentions Long Tube Headers - $1300
KW v3 Coilovers - $2000
SPC Camber Kit F&R - $500
HKS Camp 2 W/Sensors - $1000
Stillen Oil Cooler - $500


aside from sway bars and a good catback I would say thats a good start, and only @ 11,300, not much above your mark although for a good exhaust I would estimated another $1500ish. Still no where near 30k

A vented hood, lovered undertray & dif & trans cooler would all be nice acc. but not a necessity. For a dedicated track car yes, but for a street car w/occasional track day, that list is a little bizzare to say the least.

DPE G

iTrader: (19)

Mike if the question was... "What would I need to build a RACEcar" then yes you are on the right track, but to build a street car w/track days then I think it's way overkill.

Mike

iTrader: (1)

If you think that's a racecar budget, you don't want to see what I think a racecar budget is....

At the end of the day, the VQ37 just has massive cooling problems, and a lot of the budget is to accommodate that problem. The Stillen oil cooler... is not enough. I can get a G37 to hit limp mode in 3-4 laps with the Stillen oil cooler on. Imagine how much faster a 500whp G would heat up the oil. Half of the 30k budget is in supporting mods to alleviate a flaw.

I don't like cutting corners in builds. It always ultimately results in spending more.


If the OP really did own a 1khp Supra, a 30k budget is nothing.

Mike

iTrader: (1)

As for suspension and LSD, if you don't address those... then you end up with a car like this. Looks impressive? Sure. All his passing is done in the straights. Anyone can go fast in a straight line. All you do is put the pedal to the metal. This particular car in the video took a lot of flak, and is now focusing on suspension work (as well as more power).

<iframe width="853" height="480" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/zW5tEedhIGM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

G37Sam

Leave it to Mike to turn a simple project into a Formula1 car lol

Get a Porsche GT3 if you want a car meant for the track, turning a boosted G37 into a competitve track car will definitely cost more than the G itself.

DPE G

iTrader: (19)

My point mike you are relating everything to a track car. Not that these aren't great. Hold ideas. But that does not mean it can't be done and work for under 30k. If he wants a track car you are on the right path. If he wants a sporty de for an occasionall track session I think he can get by with standard mods.

Mike

iTrader: (1)

That's the thing. That "occasional track day" is what will break the car. It doesn't matter if you do 1 track day or 40; the stress on the car is the same.

You don't go for a daily 2 mile jog, and then "occasionally" do a marathon. You build yourself up so that you can reasonable complete the marathon without killing yourself.

Every student I've ever had with a VQ37 had hit limp mode their FIRST session on track with me, regardless of whether its 110F ambient, or 40F ambient. The only exception to this is when it was raining...

Ultimately, if the OP really did have a 1khp supra, then spending 30k shouldn't be a problem. You can do things the cheap way, or do it the right way.

kingdavid

I agree with you Mike. Common logic would be "Well every once ina while can't hurt" But the those once in a whiles can be catastrophic if your car isn't prepped right. My perception was that you were saying 30k for powerplant alone which blew my mind. Overall 30k for a total car isn't too crazy though I think I could shave off a few of those parts (ie. skid plate ) and keep the cost low.
Thing is I have a LOT of race ready parts lying around but I never reuse engine/drivetrain parts (except turbo head units) because of the crazy levels of stress they endure.

....1000$ for guages? Really dude? Lol JK
What I'm more worried about is power dilvery. I have terrible luck with turbo's when it comes to lag. I hate stomping my foot down coming out of a corner and twiddling my thumbs while my turbo spins.

What's low end torque like on the G37? The test drive was indiffinitive and the salesperson wasn't exactly an expert (Low end torque? No Id say its mid-high end. It's a sports car!) so what are your guys experiences?

kingdavid

I did NOt run my supra on the track. I've never run anything any higher than 475hp through the circuit...Nor anything with as long a wheel base as a Supra. My supra was the result of teaching a highschool kid mechanic/automotive skills to try to "keep him out of trouble" and not know what can be done to a 2jz.

My track cars are comparitively low price to start off which let us save cash for the build.
-2000 ford focus
-Ford Escort Cosworth (by far the best)
-Mini TT
-Chevy Cobalt (They catch fire!)
-Honda S2000
-2004 350z

only the 350z AND S2000 BROKE 470 HP, There wasn't much of a need for more than that as I rarely came across long straights or sweeping turns where top speed was anywhere as important as acceleration.

Mike

iTrader: (1)

Mmmmm Escort Cosworth. <3

If you keep the compression the same on the car, boost threshold is actually very manageable. The biggest advantages you have here is:

- Much MUCH higher compression. 8.5:1 vs 11:1.
- More displacement. 3.0 vs 3.7
- Higher (stock) redline.

This results in having much more exhaust volume AND exhaust velocity, as well as higher energy.

Disadvantages

- No room for fancy manifolds. You have to make do with what you can fit, and it's not great. No twin scroll, divided manifold, equal length stuff here since you're working with 3 cylinders per turbo and space is at an ultra premium.

Overall, it's still an advantage over the 2JZ in terms of boost threshold. Anytime you are out of boost, you still retain the entire stock powerband of a NA VQ37, while you can spool up faster than a 2JZ ever could (unless you've built for 9k+ rpm... which is very likely with 1khp).

With an auto, you shouldn't ever really have significant lag. GTM's TT kit had a boost threshold similar to that of a stock 3000GT VR-4. It's not as explosive, as the G37 has much more power out of boost, but the delivery style and window is almost the same.

Transient response will be far superior to a APU Supra as well, and marginally better than a BPU++++ Supra, while delivering the same power level.

Most of my experience with turbo VQs is in a G35 (VQ35HR) with twin GT3076; every PSI was worth roughly 30whp on that setup. It's daily driven on 6 psi which is roughly 450 dynojet, with a high boost of 8 psi available on demand, and a scramble boost of 10 psi available for short bursts.

I also have another buddy that's built a VQ35HR Z with 10:1 compression with twin 28Gs, and is making 700whp at 13 psi. High compression is nasty , but he has to cool down between SINGLE runs. He has every cooling mod in the book.

kingdavid

I've been hearing about guys here and there boring and sleeving, more than there are 700+ hp owners it seems. Is this a "safe race" necessity for the VQ? Most of the tuners are pretty adamant about how strong the block is. Larger displacement has always been attractive but the supoporting mods list gets extensive pretty fast and money would ultimately be better spent on a straiht engine swap.

That's IS an encouraging compression isn't it? have you played with it a lot or have you left it as is as much you can? If I can leave it alone I'd like to, one less thing I have to worry about in the laundry list potential engine-grenading problems that run through my head coming out of every turn.

I'm still leaning towards S/C over T/C for colling reasons. At 475-500ish hp Weight will still be a premium and I'm keeping my nave, air conditioning, radia etc. So minimizing the additional weight I have to put on is a big deal.

And I miss the Cozzy. Nothing beat sweeping past a z06 around a corner and wagging my bone stock spoiler at him as I zip off.

kingdavid

I was looking at GTM actually. The torque curve has some beef to it over the stillen kit. Still seems like the kits relatively new to the market though so there's always reliability to consider but the names theyre throwing down for their parts list is pretty solid

I feel like money would be spent somewherer else with the headers, especially when they wouldn't be absolutely necessary to make the power I'm after safely. Maybe coolers or splurge for higher-end tires.

Weiboy718

iTrader: (10)

^ I can tell you first hand the GTM kit is pretty reliable for everyday driving. So far the only problems I'm encountering is a little lag because of the car being heat soaked, their oil relocation kit isn't made with the best gasket also and it does leaks a little bit but those can easily be fixed. I have exactly 1 year on this kit and daily drive it. Not much issues here.

kingdavid

Hmmm...Good things to know....At this point I might just make the whole front of my car one massive intercooler, spray paint it and call it a body kit. On an off note, have you brought this issues to the attention fo GTM? If you did I wonder what they had to say.

There's a bit that kit leaves to be desired. Since trying out procharger I've sworn off tapping my oil pan or running new lines for life haha. How long and how hard are you on it before you hit heat-soak?

While were on it, why does VQ run so hot? Looking at the complete block (just the exterior) I dont see the reason it has such poor thermal properties. I'm wondering if it's because she's a chunky girl. That'd explain both the strength of a primarily aluminum block and its tendancy to run over-hot. Anyone got info on this?