Who has a Stillen G37 Supercharger? Numbers, pics, vids!
#812
I'm pretty darn happy with it to be honest. My goal was reliability, safety and style before performance.
#813
^^ I completely agree on the safety statement but to spend 10k on FI and gain 31 or so more WHP than a bolted car is :/. Just my .02. You can make 400+ WHP safely tho.
And relooking at the dyno your before was 260 right, thats par for a stock car, so may not be a low dyno. But if you're happy that's all that matters.
And relooking at the dyno your before was 260 right, thats par for a stock car, so may not be a low dyno. But if you're happy that's all that matters.
#814
^^ I completely agree on the safety statement but to spend 10k on FI and gain 31 or so more WHP than a bolted car is :/. Just my .02. You can make 400+ WHP safely tho.
And relooking at the dyno your before was 260 right, thats par for a stock car, so may not be a low dyno. But if you're happy that's all that matters.
And relooking at the dyno your before was 260 right, thats par for a stock car, so may not be a low dyno. But if you're happy that's all that matters.
You're right though, I dumped some serious cash on this, so I plan to have some fun with it. I just want to get used to the new setup, get thru the winter and get some stickier tires before going too crazy.
Also got a new OS Giken twin disc clutch which I'm really happy with.
#815
He's also running on a dynapack setup, which should spit out higher overall numbers. Did they run a baseline dyno run? How much boost are you running?
I would have them look over the tune again because you shouldn't need to upgrade to the 9psi pulley (voids warranty) to reach a reasonable level of power. I would honestly keep the kit stock for what you want. For sake of 'reliability', you'd probably want it sitting around 390-420whp.
I would have them look over the tune again because you shouldn't need to upgrade to the 9psi pulley (voids warranty) to reach a reasonable level of power. I would honestly keep the kit stock for what you want. For sake of 'reliability', you'd probably want it sitting around 390-420whp.
#816
Fair enough, I'll get it over to them for the first oil change and have them look into bumping it up without changing the pulley.
I was pretty happy with it, but knowing that it should be a little more, I'll have to check into it.
Edit: I think it's supposed to be 8lb of boost...
I was pretty happy with it, but knowing that it should be a little more, I'll have to check into it.
Edit: I think it's supposed to be 8lb of boost...
#817
Fair enough, I'll get it over to them for the first oil change and have them look into bumping it up without changing the pulley.
I was pretty happy with it, but knowing that it should be a little more, I'll have to check into it.
Edit: I think it's supposed to be 8lb of boost...
I was pretty happy with it, but knowing that it should be a little more, I'll have to check into it.
Edit: I think it's supposed to be 8lb of boost...
Yea hear yea about getting used to it . IF you haven't driven a car with that power it can be a bit of nervous ride. The kit will make 8-9 PSI stock mine was 9 PSI( Stock) pulley. I never changed the pulley, tho I did the impeller upgrade and saw 13 PSI@ 457 but tune was and boom.
Invest in some gauges, Boost, AF, at minimum.
#818
Yea hear yea about getting used to it . IF you haven't driven a car with that power it can be a bit of nervous ride. The kit will make 8-9 PSI stock mine was 9 PSI( Stock) pulley. I never changed the pulley, tho I did the impeller upgrade and saw 13 PSI@ 457 but tune was and boom.
Invest in some gauges, Boost, AF, at minimum.
Invest in some gauges, Boost, AF, at minimum.
It's too bad the A-A kit wasn't out back then. You would have been able to put down some nice power safer.
As for gauges, it's not really necessary for the stock kit, but it does give you an ease of mind.
#819
I have an AEM Fail safe gauge on the A pillar that shows me the boost, it's just hard to see when I'm really getting on it. I can see it go green and It looks like it's around 8psi boost. I'll see if I can get better about reading it properly. Bare with me, as I'm still learning all of this.
#821
500+ Not just a pipe dream
Just thought I would introduce myself. My name is Eric, I'm from Texas. I just wanted to share my experience with the Stillen supercharger on my VQ37VHR on my Q50.
I am one of the lucky few whom have had the pleasure of daily driving/racing my car for the past year and put over 30,000 miles of boosted bliss since I installed the kit at 20k on the odometer. Due to the absence of a pass through from the engine bay and the radiator support on the Q I had to take a different approach with the intake tract going to the supercharger. I removed it. I installed a small conical filter on the blower and welded the MAFs in the charge pipe and maxed them out on the first dyno pull with the EcuTek tune. I could have sprung over a grand on a set of GT MAFs but my tuner had a better idea, put a GTR MAP sensor in the manifold and go with speed density tuning instead. Well, we achieved sometime great that day... 504whp. Injectors were closed to maxed so I got a set of ID1000's and got back on the dyno for a final of 507whp at a very safe 11:1 AFR. After it started to warm up I felt the car get a little slower and with my weekly trips to "Mexico" I knew I needed more power to keep up with the faster cars. I was able to get my hands on the upgraded 9psi pulley and ordered a AEM meth kit and was able to pull 540whp. I was able to get back to 12 flat at the track on my 20" continental DWs and drove the car for several more months. After having the AEM kit die due to a corroded pump I needed something with less risk so I ordered a return fuel kit from CJ Motorsports and a ethanol content sensor and now we have flex fuel capabilities. The temp is now 100 degrees in the dyno room and we pulled 513whp on 93 octane (no meth) and added some E-85 to the mix (about 50/50) and pulled a healthy 575whp before I started to drop fuel pressure at redline. Good enough for a 1300 mile trip to Costa Mesa to display the car at Nissfest and get some nice runs on those beautiful California highways.
Car is still running great and the 430tq is amazing to feel over an over again.
So, to answer some potential questions:
1) How did I get more hp? More boost. The stock 8psi kit is tested with a full intake tract when engineered. Remove the intake restriction and the blower pulls in more air faster and provides about 11psi at redline. Up the smaller 9lb pulley and I'm at 12-13psi now.
2) Supporting mods? I've had since day one a ARK grip catback and Motordyne ART Pipes, that's right, made boost without cats. ID1000's still and an AEM 320 fuel pump and as of 2 weeks ago a CJ Motorsports S1SE return kit with rails. We are lucky enough to have 93 octane and that's what I used till I found the holy grail at the E-85 pump. Heavy 20" wheels don't help with racing but I like the way they look and drag radials will just kill the stealth look I'm going for.
3.) What upgraded internals or trans do I have? Stock. Nada.Bone stock block and transmission. Same 7 speed as my other car. I have been using the Stillen trans and engine cooler with the stock intercooler this whole time. EcuTek allows my tuner to adjust line pressure which keeps the trans from slipping and I almost never get into boost in 5th, 6th, or 7th.
4) What are you running at the track? At 507whp I hit 12.2 at 540whp - 12.0 and 575whp - well...Track day next week, I'll find out. Keep in mind this car is much beaver at 4180lb with me in it. Fully loaded sport model with lots of audio
5) Can I contact you for more info? Sure, but I rarely get on the forums so follow me on Instagram and DM me. @Q50SC.
THANKS FOR LETTING ME SHARE!
I am one of the lucky few whom have had the pleasure of daily driving/racing my car for the past year and put over 30,000 miles of boosted bliss since I installed the kit at 20k on the odometer. Due to the absence of a pass through from the engine bay and the radiator support on the Q I had to take a different approach with the intake tract going to the supercharger. I removed it. I installed a small conical filter on the blower and welded the MAFs in the charge pipe and maxed them out on the first dyno pull with the EcuTek tune. I could have sprung over a grand on a set of GT MAFs but my tuner had a better idea, put a GTR MAP sensor in the manifold and go with speed density tuning instead. Well, we achieved sometime great that day... 504whp. Injectors were closed to maxed so I got a set of ID1000's and got back on the dyno for a final of 507whp at a very safe 11:1 AFR. After it started to warm up I felt the car get a little slower and with my weekly trips to "Mexico" I knew I needed more power to keep up with the faster cars. I was able to get my hands on the upgraded 9psi pulley and ordered a AEM meth kit and was able to pull 540whp. I was able to get back to 12 flat at the track on my 20" continental DWs and drove the car for several more months. After having the AEM kit die due to a corroded pump I needed something with less risk so I ordered a return fuel kit from CJ Motorsports and a ethanol content sensor and now we have flex fuel capabilities. The temp is now 100 degrees in the dyno room and we pulled 513whp on 93 octane (no meth) and added some E-85 to the mix (about 50/50) and pulled a healthy 575whp before I started to drop fuel pressure at redline. Good enough for a 1300 mile trip to Costa Mesa to display the car at Nissfest and get some nice runs on those beautiful California highways.
Car is still running great and the 430tq is amazing to feel over an over again.
So, to answer some potential questions:
1) How did I get more hp? More boost. The stock 8psi kit is tested with a full intake tract when engineered. Remove the intake restriction and the blower pulls in more air faster and provides about 11psi at redline. Up the smaller 9lb pulley and I'm at 12-13psi now.
2) Supporting mods? I've had since day one a ARK grip catback and Motordyne ART Pipes, that's right, made boost without cats. ID1000's still and an AEM 320 fuel pump and as of 2 weeks ago a CJ Motorsports S1SE return kit with rails. We are lucky enough to have 93 octane and that's what I used till I found the holy grail at the E-85 pump. Heavy 20" wheels don't help with racing but I like the way they look and drag radials will just kill the stealth look I'm going for.
3.) What upgraded internals or trans do I have? Stock. Nada.Bone stock block and transmission. Same 7 speed as my other car. I have been using the Stillen trans and engine cooler with the stock intercooler this whole time. EcuTek allows my tuner to adjust line pressure which keeps the trans from slipping and I almost never get into boost in 5th, 6th, or 7th.
4) What are you running at the track? At 507whp I hit 12.2 at 540whp - 12.0 and 575whp - well...Track day next week, I'll find out. Keep in mind this car is much beaver at 4180lb with me in it. Fully loaded sport model with lots of audio
5) Can I contact you for more info? Sure, but I rarely get on the forums so follow me on Instagram and DM me. @Q50SC.
THANKS FOR LETTING ME SHARE!
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goredcar (03-09-2017)
#822
For more boost, you should look into an impeller upgrade + high speed bearings and then a more aggressive pulley setup. You could also have the whole unit machine scrolled to a larger trim, but I have yet to see anyone go through with that. You'll be maxing out the blower at that point and the only way to get more boost will be to swap to something like a V2.
#823
Luckily, it's still the stock setup and the blower isn't spinning any faster than it does on any other Stillen kit. Since I don't have restrictions on the inlet side each blade can grab more air instead of trying to pull it from 2 feet of ducting and a silicone reducer. I'm very content at the power levels now for the stock block and don't want to put any more boost until I get some stronger rods. Also I'm attaching a pic of the modifications I've done, just in case any of you guys want to do the same. It's very simple.
For more boost, you should look into an impeller upgrade + high speed bearings and then a more aggressive pulley setup. You could also have the whole unit machine scrolled to a larger trim, but I have yet to see anyone go through with that. You'll be maxing out the blower at that point and the only way to get more boost will be to swap to something like a V2.
The following users liked this post:
goredcar (03-09-2017)
#824
Oh whoops. I literally thought your #1 was you asking a question. I agree though, I would do some work on the block before going any further. I'm glad the 7at is handling the power fine. I was mainly concerned about the flex plate, since I kept hearing about people cracking theirs.
I'm assuming you only run that turbo guard at the track. Since you moved the MAFs, did you ever think of going with a hybrid tune, utilizing both SD + MAFs?
I'm assuming you only run that turbo guard at the track. Since you moved the MAFs, did you ever think of going with a hybrid tune, utilizing both SD + MAFs?
#825
I prefer to use the turboguard for the track or street runs. We tried a hybrid tune at first but since the speed density works so well it was scrapped.
Oh whoops. I literally thought your #1 was you asking a question. I agree though, I would do some work on the block before going any further. I'm glad the 7at is handling the power fine. I was mainly concerned about the flex plate, since I kept hearing about people cracking theirs.
I'm assuming you only run that turbo guard at the track. Since you moved the MAFs, did you ever think of going with a hybrid tune, utilizing both SD + MAFs?
I'm assuming you only run that turbo guard at the track. Since you moved the MAFs, did you ever think of going with a hybrid tune, utilizing both SD + MAFs?