6mt low end torque
10-30-2011, 11:42 PM
#16
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lol, glad you found a solution. Don't be scared to give it a little fuel. I typically don't shift until 3,000 RPM when normally driving. FSM says I should shift at like 1500 or something stupid like that, but I can't do it. It's just not right for the engine.
As far as MPG goes, I typically get 19 mostly in the city (85% or more) and I drive it pretty hard.
As far as MPG goes, I typically get 19 mostly in the city (85% or more) and I drive it pretty hard.
10-30-2011, 11:48 PM
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You'll get stiffer tires if you increase tire pressure. Will be more responsive, but you'll sacrifice ultimate grip because of it. You'll see a gain in MPG though.
I've run cars with up to 45 PSI in the tires with no uneven wear patterns for 50,000+ miles. They're very responsive, but they do break loose easier than they do at 35 PSI.
I've run cars with up to 45 PSI in the tires with no uneven wear patterns for 50,000+ miles. They're very responsive, but they do break loose easier than they do at 35 PSI.
10-30-2011, 11:59 PM
#19
To the OP, what specific car did you have before this one?
If you're new to the MT, part of the slowness may be in how quickly you're letting the clutch all the way out and getting on the throttle. Also, keep in mind this is a 6 cyl that develops it's strength in the midrange/upper end. My old z28, I could easily be shifted at 2K or 2500 and have gobs of torque (5.7L lt1). My bike otoh hand feels like a slug at 3-4K, and doesn't really come alive until 5K, and unleashes the beast at about 7500 rpm (redline 12K), 145HP at the wheel on the dyno.
The price you pay for faster acceleration will be in fuel costs and clutch wear if you're slipping the clutch for too long.
If you're new to the MT, part of the slowness may be in how quickly you're letting the clutch all the way out and getting on the throttle. Also, keep in mind this is a 6 cyl that develops it's strength in the midrange/upper end. My old z28, I could easily be shifted at 2K or 2500 and have gobs of torque (5.7L lt1). My bike otoh hand feels like a slug at 3-4K, and doesn't really come alive until 5K, and unleashes the beast at about 7500 rpm (redline 12K), 145HP at the wheel on the dyno.
The price you pay for faster acceleration will be in fuel costs and clutch wear if you're slipping the clutch for too long.
10-31-2011, 03:30 AM
#20
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To the OP, what specific car did you have before this one?
If you're new to the MT, part of the slowness may be in how quickly you're letting the clutch all the way out and getting on the throttle. Also, keep in mind this is a 6 cyl that develops it's strength in the midrange/upper end. My old z28, I could easily be shifted at 2K or 2500 and have gobs of torque (5.7L lt1). My bike otoh hand feels like a slug at 3-4K, and doesn't really come alive until 5K, and unleashes the beast at about 7500 rpm (redline 12K), 145HP at the wheel on the dyno.
The price you pay for faster acceleration will be in fuel costs and clutch wear if you're slipping the clutch for too long.
If you're new to the MT, part of the slowness may be in how quickly you're letting the clutch all the way out and getting on the throttle. Also, keep in mind this is a 6 cyl that develops it's strength in the midrange/upper end. My old z28, I could easily be shifted at 2K or 2500 and have gobs of torque (5.7L lt1). My bike otoh hand feels like a slug at 3-4K, and doesn't really come alive until 5K, and unleashes the beast at about 7500 rpm (redline 12K), 145HP at the wheel on the dyno.
The price you pay for faster acceleration will be in fuel costs and clutch wear if you're slipping the clutch for too long.
10-31-2011, 09:35 AM
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^ What he said. 70/30 highway to city, and I get 19mpg. I'm an occasional aggressive driver, but most of the time I take it easy. 19mpg is a struggle. I also only have 1600 miles on it. Maybe still breaking in?
10-31-2011, 10:54 AM
#23
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10-31-2011, 11:08 AM
#24
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You can get a plenum spacer for it.. check out the motordyne intake manifold for the 3.7 motor
Intake/Exhaust Components - MotorDyne Engineering
Intake/Exhaust Components - MotorDyne Engineering
10-31-2011, 05:15 PM
#25
I've spent time looking at countless stock dyno sheets from G37's and from 370Z's. One thing they all had in common when looking at AT vs. MT was that the manuals always put down less torque overall on almost every car. My conclusions, therefore, was that the manuals actually have less torque than the autos, hence it explains what you're feeling as you are coming from an AT to an MT. Kinda disappointing to hear.
I have a 5AT with an exhaust and tune and my car pushes out 246.7 RW torque... That is far more than I've seen on the MT's, even with those who had more mods than my car.
I have a 5AT with an exhaust and tune and my car pushes out 246.7 RW torque... That is far more than I've seen on the MT's, even with those who had more mods than my car.
10-31-2011, 05:39 PM
#27
I'm getting almost 12 mpg! I do run her out sometimes, I think the cold weather is killing it or maybe I need to clean something/change fluids... Oh and I typically shift my a/t at 3-5k rpm.
10-31-2011, 06:01 PM
#28
Here's what I'm talking about. This is from the 2011 spec page, but '09/10/12's are probably similar or the same.
If you figure the dyno is being done in 4th gear,
Automatic: 4th gear Total ratio 4.7367
Manual: 4th gear total ratio: 4.6925
The AT has a slightly higher gear ratio (shorter gear), so it will create more torque multiplication (advantage) and the engine should spin up faster as a result.
Comparing final drive #'s, the MT has the advantage, but you need to look at the full picture to get a true understanding. The final gear ratio is the gear (1st, 2nd, 3rd, etc..) ratio multiplied by the final drive ratio. On bikes, lots of people mess with gear ratios to get the engine up to the power band faster. Usually done by increasing the size of the rear sprocket or decreasing that of the front.
If you figure the dyno is being done in 4th gear,
Automatic: 4th gear Total ratio 4.7367
Manual: 4th gear total ratio: 4.6925
The AT has a slightly higher gear ratio (shorter gear), so it will create more torque multiplication (advantage) and the engine should spin up faster as a result.
Comparing final drive #'s, the MT has the advantage, but you need to look at the full picture to get a true understanding. The final gear ratio is the gear (1st, 2nd, 3rd, etc..) ratio multiplied by the final drive ratio. On bikes, lots of people mess with gear ratios to get the engine up to the power band faster. Usually done by increasing the size of the rear sprocket or decreasing that of the front.
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