$10 paypal to the first person to reply on this thread that has the answer. no dibs etc....no B.S. on my end either, just need info..

what is the I.D. of the maf sensor housing in your aftermarket intake (the step down area that the sensor mounts in.) I need ID and the length of the that section of the tube. The OD is not accurate enough unless you can say the od is 2.375" and the wall thickness is .063". I need the id to be as accurate as possible i.e. "I think it is 2.25" is not the same as it is 2.375" and I think it is about 6" long when it is in fact 6.125" long. Anyone? thanks!!! I know shot in the dark, but it would be great if someone had this info to give. PLS include the brand of intake and or a pic as well. I know the factory id on the maf housing is 2.360" but I also know the aftermarket has it steped down. THANKS. Post it hear and pls also send me an e-mail miklosmiv@yahoo.com hope it's worth 10 bucks to someone for solid info!

 

looks like I might have found my own answer, they are not steped down past factory, they SEEM to be at factory dia. They look stepped down becouse the ends are larger slightly. anyone know diff?

 

i wish i know what you are talking about

 

aftermarket intakes on these cars have what looks to be a pipe reduction at the maf. I was wondering if someone could measure thiers and report back. I seem to have found out that there is not a reduction but rather the ends are bigger that make the "step" down as AEM claims vs say a stillen. I am guessing that when people install these that they don't even notice this and or that the factory maf to tb tube is a bit harder to push on at install. I was wondering based on the fact that many cars tend to run into small but noticable issues with open intake = A slight decrese in brake firmness or a slight shift slip or harsh-er downshift most noted when in hot summer air temps etc., etc. The car thinks to load and a/f are off, and are. But only some people ever notice it. I would love to do an intake but they are big-ish money for these cars and I hate sloppy shifts or any reduction in brake performance. Basicly I want to do an axle back or an intake and call it a day. Mostly for the sound and an intake is way easy and I don't want any drone, blah blah, I am sure it did not help that I spell like a 6 yr old lol interms of understanding what I was after, thanks though! still would love to know if any people have noticed these issues on this car or the 370z, again on some cal. it is not even noticeable and other cars it is so noticable you would think you have air in the brake lines! Maf on newer cars are very tough to get right with anything but a factory intake, unlike a simple axle back muffler.

 

whoa thats confusing.

 

??? look at injen's web claiming MR tech and "step" down, or the fact that stillen also has a step down etc.,etc. Is it a step down or is it that the id is the same as the factory maf id beause the ends are slighly larger on the aftermarket intakes? you slow air speed and you slow the cooling of the maf heated wire. Hp gains are not my focus since dynos can confirm, what I am wondering is has anyone noticed issues like a slightly softer brake pedal, slightly slower upshifts or slightly harsher downshifts becouse the load of the engine is not as reported by the maf. (one of many load reporting factors of course) with these aftermarket intakes on THIS engine. Some engine pcm ,ecm, bcm, tcm etc.calibrations never blink, others are so sensitive you would have to be near dead not to notice. I don't want to invest in a cool sounding intake to only be aggrivated by other small issues. ANYONE notice this on this car??

 

wow, brake problems from an intake lol I never could have guessed

 

Your making us work hard for the $10

 

yeah I know, thanks for the reply. I think Wolf has the best inlet design but I do not like the heat sheilds. But for all I know even under idle his design might hold a +10* intake temp from outside temps. But I cannot find any data to prove that on here or the 370z forums though.

Yeah Maf is so key to the engine load, can cause shift psi changes, slip angle blah, blah. Again some cars don't blink other cars are cal. very tight. If the load is not reported just right $hit runs down hill from there. This ecu is very complex on this car so that is why I was wondering if anyone has swapped back and forth and noticed this. It could be so well programed that it adj the a/f trims after only a few drive cycles. Most ecu and pcm's can adj +/- 15% but that does not mean they (intakes) don't cause other bs. Exhaust not such a factor...you lose tq or gain tq end of day.