Looking for the best/popular intake and exhaust
05-27-2011, 08:14 PM
#1
Looking for the best/popular intake and exhaust
sup guys,
I am looking for the best intake and exhaust for my 6mt ipl, and also i have contact with vender, will get the good price on group buy for at least 10 orders. whats you guys option?
intake:
R2C?
stillen gen 2/3?
JWT?
injen?
exhaust:
Ark?
HKS?
invidia?
I am looking for the best intake and exhaust for my 6mt ipl, and also i have contact with vender, will get the good price on group buy for at least 10 orders. whats you guys option?
intake:
R2C?
stillen gen 2/3?
JWT?
injen?
exhaust:
Ark?
HKS?
invidia?
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05-30-2011, 01:04 AM
#11
Registered User
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dyno don't lie! Hp/tq curve more important than peak. Noise is too subjective. would love to see dyno's of intakes that have been on the cars for more than three start-ups so the car had had a chance to drive cycle and learn, a ecu reset is not the same. The factory intake has been shown to keep air temps within 8* of outside temp. So while under wot and a fan in front of the car on a dyno the hp numbers can be great, under stop and go traffic you MAY loose more than a clean run.
You get what you pay for but cost does not always = best. For the cost of some of these exhaust you could have a one off, dyno tunned s.s unit tuned to the tone you like most by a proven shop (pending where you live)
Keep in mind, most factory intakes do not have bends in front of the maf, most are sealed very well to outside air temps and some cause more issues than the help (hp) = shift slip, wrong a/f rates, poor brake pedal firmness. Maf is easy to f up, exhaust (cat back) is not unless you subscribe to the bigger is better. Form what I have SEEN, R2C is ideal, the K&N is well designed, the stillen long tube has a big issue with the heat shield "missing" from the bottom however the stillen cai (longest tube) are nice but have fit issues and you have to willing to cut-up your 40-50k car (I have heard) the AEM is ok untill the a/f voltage "black box fails" (uness there is a fail safe built in and even then the air tube for the maf cal is to big which MAY still cause a lean condition), I belive all of them use a thinn metal "heat soaked at idle" tube to pass air to the tb... crap I don't know lol. Not trying to bash and what the heck do I know but I would like someone to edu-ma-ca-te me as well with proof...and while hydrolock is a risk with some, very low unless you drive in swimming pools. However, moisture in an engine is never good even in small amounts which is why the factory does a good job of making sure "airbox" housings stay at a warm temp to help evap it and not degrade your filter media. Now if only I could spell!
You get what you pay for but cost does not always = best. For the cost of some of these exhaust you could have a one off, dyno tunned s.s unit tuned to the tone you like most by a proven shop (pending where you live)
Keep in mind, most factory intakes do not have bends in front of the maf, most are sealed very well to outside air temps and some cause more issues than the help (hp) = shift slip, wrong a/f rates, poor brake pedal firmness. Maf is easy to f up, exhaust (cat back) is not unless you subscribe to the bigger is better. Form what I have SEEN, R2C is ideal, the K&N is well designed, the stillen long tube has a big issue with the heat shield "missing" from the bottom however the stillen cai (longest tube) are nice but have fit issues and you have to willing to cut-up your 40-50k car (I have heard) the AEM is ok untill the a/f voltage "black box fails" (uness there is a fail safe built in and even then the air tube for the maf cal is to big which MAY still cause a lean condition), I belive all of them use a thinn metal "heat soaked at idle" tube to pass air to the tb... crap I don't know lol. Not trying to bash and what the heck do I know but I would like someone to edu-ma-ca-te me as well with proof...and while hydrolock is a risk with some, very low unless you drive in swimming pools. However, moisture in an engine is never good even in small amounts which is why the factory does a good job of making sure "airbox" housings stay at a warm temp to help evap it and not degrade your filter media. Now if only I could spell!
Last edited by 37Gs; 05-30-2011 at 01:11 AM. Reason: still cannot spell lol!
05-31-2011, 09:44 PM
#13
Registered User
I'm probably going to try to go with Megan exhaust on mine with Injen long tubes (assuming that I don't have to do too much hacking and dicing to get them in).
05-31-2011, 10:08 PM
#14
I don't know anything about intakes, but IMO if you want an axle back Tanabe is the best,Tanabe can piece together for a full exhaust, but it wouldn't be my first choice. Full exhaust (affordable/expensive) HKS, full exhaust (expensive) Amuse, or any other top JDM tuner titanium exhaust. If money is no object to you, Top Secret is working on an exhaust custom w/remote (beyond expensive) 370ZTUNE.com
05-31-2011, 11:03 PM
#15
Stillen Gen3 and ARK, best pairing for the G there is.
Also, (and let me be clear that I am not trying to start another stupid "top secret is the best" argument) but just b/c it's absurdly expensive and from JDM/TS doesn't make it absolutely superior to everything else.
Don't drink the kool aid, it may be well made but absolutely in no way worth the money...it's not that much better (if it's even better at all, which it's not IMO) than the others that have been mentioned here
Also, (and let me be clear that I am not trying to start another stupid "top secret is the best" argument) but just b/c it's absurdly expensive and from JDM/TS doesn't make it absolutely superior to everything else.
Don't drink the kool aid, it may be well made but absolutely in no way worth the money...it's not that much better (if it's even better at all, which it's not IMO) than the others that have been mentioned here