DmfG37sTT

I figured since no one else has really documented a oil change with F/I application I would have a go at it. I first want to thank my buddy Doug for allowing me to use his many jacks, jack stands, and many of the tools he has, as well as his help . I will do this reveiw in a couple different stages. First stage will be how we actually got the car off the ground since my G sits very low. The second stage will be how everything looked once the skid plate was removed and the installation of the kit from what I could see. Thrid stage will be how the oil actually looked after its first 2k miles, as well as the oil that was used. Please bare with me as this is my fist reveiw. All pictures were taken on my blackberrry so quality of pictures are not the best.

To first start off I would like to exsplain the driving conditions of my first 2000 miles and how hard the car was driven. Its been VERY cold here in missouri so finding time to drive the car has been hard. When days are dueable for driving I always start the car for about 5-10 min to get everything running at operating temp before leaving. Since I have had the car the boost levels have seen around 8-9psi. The car reacts very well with the boost and holds it very well. The car is mostly driven on/at highway speeds. I personally dont feel I' am very hard on the car but I do give it a go at times, but with that being said I dont baby the car. I have raced the car and have tested its strengths. I' am very pleased with how well the car turned out and how well it holds its power. Now to the oil change

STAGE 1: Lifting the G

This process of lifting my car was actually a pain in the a$$. Since the car sits so low its hard to get the jack in the right spot and lift it without touching/cracking the underpannel right below the door. So we used the jack that you can find in the trunk of your car under the spare and we used it to start the lifting process. As most of you know those things are not the easiest to work with. Sitting on the ground for which felt like forever getting the little floor jack to raise the car enough to finally get the jack under the car without hitting the pannel. Once that was done it was easy to raise the car up to get the jackstand underneath it. Once the jack stand was in place we just had to repeat on the other side



In this picture you cant see the little jack we used but its there


And finally the car if LIFTED!!


Stage 2: overlook

Removing the skid plate was very simple given Doug had a compresser we used to remove bolts/clamps. When I removed the skid plate a examined the skid plate itself to see if anything had dripped down onto it. I found a oil spot right where the pan sits. I was worried but the amount didnt look to be anything that would cause any harm.


I still needed to find out where the spill came from. Once I got under the car it was NOT obvious where the spill was comming from. Looked on/and around the oil pan and didnt see anything. When I DOUBLE checked the oil filter and colar I noticed a bit of oil residue on the color and bottom on oil filter. FOUND IT! Its hard to see on these pictures but ill post anyways.







I found that the colar had gotten a tad loose and cause a little oil to trickle out. Very easy fix. we used some sealent on the bottom end of the threads and made sure everything was TIGHT! problem solved. I now focused my attention to the actuall install of the kit from what I could see. Getting a good look from underneath the car its amazing how they are able to fit so much in such little space. Everything was tucked away or wrapped in something to keep it sheiled. absolutly no rattling with car turned on. No bolt left missing and attention to detail even UNDER the car amazed me. Very happy with how everything looked and even got a eye veiw of my turbos .

Stage 3: Used oil

When we took the oil out I have to say I was a little taken back on how dark it looked but not something I wasnt prepaired for. The car had been raced and driven hard at times and I figured it wouldnt look the best. I poured some into a cap and took a pic.



Even with the dark oil it still seemed that it had not broken down and flowed very smoothly no clumps no gunk.
Now after speaking with frank at hills garage I decided I would use Mobile1 0w 40 synthetic. I mean this stuff comes factory with Mercedes-Benz AMG, Porsche, and Aston Martin. Hopefully it does me well. Overall I am very happy with everything. Nothing I didnt exspect. However if you can take anything from this, understand that having a F/I vehicle takes alot of caring and attention. Oil must be checked constantly. However I feel it is worth it. I have not had as much fun in a long time as I have had in my G the past couple months. Again I want to thank Sam and the guys at GTM for really doing a great job on my car. They are always there to help. (even on a sunday!)

baileyrx

iTrader: (1)

i think you'll find the Mobil 1 a little to thin for your TT-vq engine.

on my built TT g35, it just didn't work very well, way too thin, and would break down very quickly!

ask Sam or Sharif what they'd recommend...

DmfG37sTT

I should also state that the oil I got was free. Buddy owns a shop and got the oil for me kinda as a christmas present. We will see how it turns out. And who do you think put the old oil in the car? Its the first oil change from getting my car back.

GraphiteG37S

iTrader: (29)

Very detailed review.. Nice job.

Just one comment about jacking up your low car that might make it a little bit easier next time instead of having to use the spare jack. My car is low too, what I do I just drive up on some 2x4s and I am able to fit a regular sized floor jack underneath no problem. Maybe something to consider in the future and make your life a little easier. Great review.

DmfG37sTT

Thank you. will for sure try that next time. But I have the splitter on my car so the front end sits a little lower than it would if it was stock bumper, But im sure it should work

GraphiteG37S

iTrader: (29)

Lol... It will work. I have the Stillen splitter too. Just use short 2x4s or even bricks.

Personally I use some plastic car ramps that I got at walmart for my oil changes. Just used two longer pieces of 3/4" plywood to extend the length of the ramps to avaoid scraping my splitter.

christian655321

iTrader: (5)

Just curious how you tell the if the oil is broken down or not ? Which weight did you use? Which type?

I use mobile one also. It was recommended to me by my mechanic.

s2ktoEvo

The oil you changed too will probably be ok considering how cold it is right now, but it may be a bit thin in the summer.

DmfG37sTT

Its kinda trial and error at this point. I will see how my car reacts to the mobile1 and make me decision from there. Every oil is gonna react differently on every car. just depeneds on what my motor seems to like more.

s2ktoEvo

I'm not that familiar with the Gtm turbo setup, are they water cooled or oil cooled?

I knows its a completely different setup but on my evo and sti I liked 10w30 in the summer and either 0w or 5w-30 in winter. I did the same when I supercharged my s2k.

A quick and dirty way to see how your oil is doing is look at the oil drain bolt. Most are magnetic and metal particles will stick to it. Everything should look like fine sand, if you see anything bigger or there is a lot of it post a picture.

DmfG37sTT

There was nothing in or on the oil plug. other than the color everything seemed just fine.

Q8y_drifter

Are the stock drain plugs magnetic? I know Nissan sells magnetic drain plugs for the Z so I'm assuming the stock one isn't.

DmfG37sTT

Alot of cars now adays come stock with the magnetic plugs. Mine came with it. I was able to have the pan hold the plug while oil drained out.

superchargedg

iTrader: (1)

Ive been using mobil 1 0w40 for over 70,000 boosted miles with no problems

DmfG37sTT

I like my odds in that case