HappyG

Just bring your car to your dealer and tell the service department that you are experiencing rough shifts. That was what I did and the tech test drove my car and determined there were indeed rough shifts. They then applied the reflash.

RedG37SNC

I give up. Yea that's one way.. have it average your most recent driving experience. I have a workaround though, I noticed if I talk in a Vin Desil accent with authority it shift's quicker. Try this... just yell "Shift Bieatch!" or "Hold ****** *****" when you want it to shift or hold a gear. Make sure you hit the voice recognition button first... it's an undocumented feature of the learning transmission. You can find these along with how this transmission actually works documented in the service manual above...

tharbemiko

iTrader: (1)

I'll keep that in mind if I get the reflash

MaluG37

If I were in your shoes, I would let the engine break in a little (1200miles) then get the oil changed. Baby it for another 2500 miles get the oil changed. Then drive like your angry at the car. If things don't improve by 5000 miles then get the reflash.

I don't think reseting the ECU helps since the car is constantly monitoring your inputs so drive like how you want the car to perform and it will reward you. I don't think it does a good job at slow speed (ex. traffic) but that might just be the nature of the beast.

I had the reprogram done on my car at 5300 miles and now have driven 700 miles and I'm enjoying it. Its not like driving in snow mode as previously mentioned which feels very restrictive. I don't even use the snow mode in the snow. I think before the reprogram the car used to over react to the drivers inputs and after the reprogram the car is almost on the same page as the driver. Try to drive like Marc had described without the reprogram and if this doesn't work then bring it to the dealer.

I think the people that are having problems with the trans and the dealer is not helping should contact Infiniti Consumer Affairs (800-662-6200) and report the problem with the car and the dealer you go to. I did this since my dealer wasn't helping and ICA contacts the dealer and works things out. On top of that, your complaint also goes to Infiniti's Engineering department.

My dealer also had a problem with their consult III so make sure their equipment is working properly.

Chris11LE

I had the rare chance to drive my G today, and I went through some twisties (twice) so the first time I tried it in D and the second in DS. Granted each time wasnt exactly the same, but there is definitely still a difference between D and DS. I do get SOME engine braking, but not as much as my loaner G (Im running under the assumption that my 2011 LE has the flash already installed, because it was soooo much different than the loaner car)

I agree with a couple posts back: the loaner felt like it was overreacting to my inputs. My car feels like its pretty much on the same page......to the point that I can get an RPM matched downshift in DS any time I try to. The loaner would give me an engine braking RPM matched downshift when I was pulling up to a stop light (the biggest issue that people seem to have that lead to getting this flash), Im sure some people like that, but thats not how I want my car to drive.

It also begs the question........does the car have separate learning modes for D and DS? Will DS get more aggressive if you hammer on the car in DS mode? That I dont know, my car is still in breakin miles (and what a pain that is, it wants to rev up!!!)

HappyG

Another question is, does the car have separate learning for driver 1 and driver 2?

Let say I'm driver 1, wife is driver 2. Say the wife drive like a turtle and I drive like there is no tomorrow. Does the car get confused? Or the car is smart enough to know there are 2 drivers are react to each separately? After all, we each carry a different key.

RedG37SNC

Why yes, that's exactly how it works. It doesn't get confused since the seat switch is part of the driver ID10T logic. Note, not all G's have this capability though.. You have to BELIEVE it to make it real. Don't take this personally, just in the mood for comedy.

TinsleyC

I love it!

HappyG

Thanks for the info. So the ID1OT logic take care of the confusion.

RedG37SNC

Yep, one other tidbit of note, the accelerator pedal has two sensors, one to monitor position, the other to monitor speed of change in position.

HappyG

Can't they derive the speed of change in position from the position sensor? Simple mathematics. Then why 2 sensors? I don't get it. Is it because I understand their ID1OT logic?

coolraz

Hey guys i dont have the rough shifts to the point some are describing but I have a weird stutter of throttle mainly in 7 th gear btw 40 and 60mph.
I documented the problem in this thread
https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-cou...elerating.html

Do you guys think this could be fixed with this reflash??

RedG37SNC

Yes it's ID10T logic, however my own this time. I missread the docs, it looked from the graph that one was used for position, the other for speed. Looks like they both measure position and speed. Just relaying since that's all you basically have to communicate with the transmission, how far you push it in addition to and how fast you got there.

The accelerator pedal position sensor is installed on the upper end of the accelerator pedal assembly. The sensor detects the accelerator position and sends a signal to the ECM.
The Accelerator pedal position sensor has two sensors. These sensors are a kind of potentiometers which transform the accelerator pedal position into output voltage, and emit the voltage signal to the ECM. In addition, these sensors detect the opening and closing speed of the accelerator pedal and feed the voltage signals to the ECM. The ECM judges the current opening angle of the accelerator pedal from these signals and controls the throttle control motor based on these signals. Idle position of the accelerator pedal is determined by the ECM receiving the signal from the accelerator pedal position sensor. The ECM uses this signal for the engine operation such as fuel cut.

.

TONY37X

iTrader: (2)

*** UPDATE: Well Friday came and went, and although my car is eligible for the ITB10-075 ECU reflash I clued them on to, the dealership had a problem installing it so now I got the loaner till Monday. It's either that they really had a problem or they were super swamped and left me till the end of the day. We'll see.....

G37beijing

I did the reflash today at the Beijing dealer. They cannot give me an ITB reference number nor a date of the ITB. All they know is that the updated 7AT firmware version is 31039-X210E. After the reflash, I did some test driving with the master technician. Below is what I consider major improvements.

(1) The 1-2-3 and 3-2-1 jerkiness is almost gone. Car driving much more smoothly at speeds below 40MPH.
(2) Engine braking when stopping for a red light is greatly minimized.
(3) Bogging at 37MPH (59KPH) has improved a lot.
(4) Throttle response is faster and throttle is more easily controlled.

In general, a lot of the jerkiness and quirkiness of the 7AT is gone and I feel more confident to drive it in stop and go traffic.