Adding one quart of Redline Ester based oil
#1
Adding one quart of Redline Ester based oil
For my next oil change I'm thinking of adding just one quart of Redline 5w/30 to my Amsoil. My thought is the Redline has more of an Ester base and that the one quart might be enough to give the supposed Ester benefit.
I've read that the Amsoil has Ester properties, but when I changed to Amsoil recently the valve clicking increased slightly. Since I recently bought 2 cases of Amsoil at considerable cost I'm definitely gonna use that up.
From all the research I've read I decided Amsoil was the best oil out there, but I think one or maybe two quarts of Redline added to it might make it even better for the G's Ester needs.
I've read that the Amsoil has Ester properties, but when I changed to Amsoil recently the valve clicking increased slightly. Since I recently bought 2 cases of Amsoil at considerable cost I'm definitely gonna use that up.
From all the research I've read I decided Amsoil was the best oil out there, but I think one or maybe two quarts of Redline added to it might make it even better for the G's Ester needs.
#2
Registered User
I'm curious as to what you're trying to achieve? My guess is you would be better
off running one or the other, doing UOAs on both and deciding which to run and
at an OCI that fits your climate and driving style.
The Amsoil is not an ester base. It is a highly refined hydro-cracked petroleum base
the only "ester properties" Amsoil has is from the small amounts of ester and
synthetic ester it uses in it proprietory additive package....and none of us will ever
know just how little or exactly what they use.
Red Line is a pure non-petroleum based ester
My guess is that unless you live close to a Amsoil warehouse and can avoid
distributor and shipping markups, you can get Redline for several dollars
a quart less from OG racing and use a superior 100% ester oil
When you were researching Amsoil, you probably noticed that the one
oil they never compare, test or talk are the 100% ester base oils....
Red Line, Motul, Enos, Schaeffers, RLI, etc.....Why do you think that is?
off running one or the other, doing UOAs on both and deciding which to run and
at an OCI that fits your climate and driving style.
The Amsoil is not an ester base. It is a highly refined hydro-cracked petroleum base
the only "ester properties" Amsoil has is from the small amounts of ester and
synthetic ester it uses in it proprietory additive package....and none of us will ever
know just how little or exactly what they use.
Red Line is a pure non-petroleum based ester
My guess is that unless you live close to a Amsoil warehouse and can avoid
distributor and shipping markups, you can get Redline for several dollars
a quart less from OG racing and use a superior 100% ester oil
When you were researching Amsoil, you probably noticed that the one
oil they never compare, test or talk are the 100% ester base oils....
Red Line, Motul, Enos, Schaeffers, RLI, etc.....Why do you think that is?
#3
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
If the valve clicking increased with Amsoil, adding Redline to it wont change the fact that its still going to be 80% Amsoil. And unless you know what you are doing, I wouldnt recommend combining oils.
If you take it to the dealer, they are going to recommend you put in Nissan Ester Oil for the valve ticking.
I would say your options are completely change to another oil, or take it to the dealer and pay for a Nissan Ester oil change.
Personally, I would FULLY switch to redline for 4k miles and see if the ticking goes away. This is a 40k car. I wouldnt put oil in it which seems to be causing a problem just to save 40 bucks.
If you take it to the dealer, they are going to recommend you put in Nissan Ester Oil for the valve ticking.
I would say your options are completely change to another oil, or take it to the dealer and pay for a Nissan Ester oil change.
Personally, I would FULLY switch to redline for 4k miles and see if the ticking goes away. This is a 40k car. I wouldnt put oil in it which seems to be causing a problem just to save 40 bucks.
#4
I'm curious as to what you're trying to achieve? My guess is you would be better
off running one or the other, doing UOAs on both and deciding which to run and
at an OCI that fits your climate and driving style.
The Amsoil is not an ester base. It is a highly refined hydro-cracked petroleum base
the only "ester properties" Amsoil has is from the small amounts of ester and
synthetic ester it uses in it proprietory additive package....and none of us will ever
know just how little or exactly what they use.
Red Line is a pure non-petroleum based ester
My guess is that unless you live close to a Amsoil warehouse and can avoid
distributor and shipping markups, you can get Redline for several dollars
a quart less from OG racing and use a superior 100% ester oil
When you were researching Amsoil, you probably noticed that the one
oil they never compare, test or talk are the 100% ester base oils....
Red Line, Motul, Enos, Schaeffers, RLI, etc.....Why do you think that is?
off running one or the other, doing UOAs on both and deciding which to run and
at an OCI that fits your climate and driving style.
The Amsoil is not an ester base. It is a highly refined hydro-cracked petroleum base
the only "ester properties" Amsoil has is from the small amounts of ester and
synthetic ester it uses in it proprietory additive package....and none of us will ever
know just how little or exactly what they use.
Red Line is a pure non-petroleum based ester
My guess is that unless you live close to a Amsoil warehouse and can avoid
distributor and shipping markups, you can get Redline for several dollars
a quart less from OG racing and use a superior 100% ester oil
When you were researching Amsoil, you probably noticed that the one
oil they never compare, test or talk are the 100% ester base oils....
Red Line, Motul, Enos, Schaeffers, RLI, etc.....Why do you think that is?
#5
If the valve clicking increased with Amsoil, adding Redline to it wont change the fact that its still going to be 80% Amsoil. And unless you know what you are doing, I wouldnt recommend combining oils.
If you take it to the dealer, they are going to recommend you put in Nissan Ester Oil for the valve ticking.
I would say your options are completely change to another oil, or take it to the dealer and pay for a Nissan Ester oil change.
Personally, I would FULLY switch to redline for 4k miles and see if the ticking goes away. This is a 40k car. I wouldnt put oil in it which seems to be causing a problem just to save 40 bucks.
If you take it to the dealer, they are going to recommend you put in Nissan Ester Oil for the valve ticking.
I would say your options are completely change to another oil, or take it to the dealer and pay for a Nissan Ester oil change.
Personally, I would FULLY switch to redline for 4k miles and see if the ticking goes away. This is a 40k car. I wouldnt put oil in it which seems to be causing a problem just to save 40 bucks.
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