Improvement resulting from 1st oil change
05-27-2010, 11:15 AM
#16
Registered User
RedG37SNC, CodeG, and eksigned....I'll try to respond to all three of your posts here
so please bear with me.
Red' how's that RLI working out for you? I wanted to use it, but just couldn't
stomach their shipping fees. You are right that all the popular oils that
say "synthetic" on the label are nothing but hydro-cracked semi-synthetics...
as is M1. Only in America could they be allowed to get away with that crap...brought
to us by our friends at Mobil/Exon. There are quite a few true synthetics,
Motul, RLI, Eneos, Fuchs, Shaeffers, to name a few.
Code" There is a method to Nissan's madness with their not really synthetic
or high ester content "Nissan Ester". They created it to increase their
fleet mileage and reduce pollution in their engines...and it works, BUT, you
wouldn't want to leave it your engine for more than three months and
it's rediculously expensive.
If a manufacturer uses a part (including oil) to establish their CAFE
ratings for pollution and MPG, they must use that same part
as OEM when they sell the car as "new". That same goofy law is what
allows Nissan to "recommend Nissan Ester" in their VQ VVEL engines
because it is in fact OEM. It's literally as simple as that.
eksigned, you asked for my opinion so here it is. The VVEL system
is open and closed by an "actuator motor" that is literally driven by
oil pressure. The VVEL components also generate very high heat very
quickly everytime the pedal gets punched. Ester is perfect in this
engine because it flows to and seeks heat unlike non-ester oils.
it also builds pressure quicker because it is polar and is literally
attracted to metal at the molecular level. This provides quicker
VVEL response (even if only by microseconds) It is not required,
but it privides superior lubrication in this and many other high-tech
high output engines.
I personally use Redline because I can get it shipped to my
door in two days for $9/quart. OG Racing or Summit usually
have the best deals/free shipping. On filters...I use PureOnes
which are very popular with the high performance motorcycle
crowd. They perform at or near the high end level of the
M1 and K&N filters for less than half the price. They are rated
at 99.9% first pass effecient @ 40 microns and are available
at most chain parts stores. This combination gives me total
peace-of-mind in my cars and motorcycles and I don't have
to ****-around with the time and expense of doing UOAs
anymore.
PU...I would put it in my G, but the verdict is still out on
how it performs or holds up to a hard driver like me.
I would use it, but I would start doing UOAs at 3K and
that time and expense is exactly what I wasted several
years and alot of bucks doing on my vehicles in the
past and don't want to do any longer.
Redline/PureOne oil change including paying my
mechanic for labor = $72. Nissan Ester oil change
at my local Infiniti dealer = $130 hope this helps.
so please bear with me.
Red' how's that RLI working out for you? I wanted to use it, but just couldn't
stomach their shipping fees. You are right that all the popular oils that
say "synthetic" on the label are nothing but hydro-cracked semi-synthetics...
as is M1. Only in America could they be allowed to get away with that crap...brought
to us by our friends at Mobil/Exon. There are quite a few true synthetics,
Motul, RLI, Eneos, Fuchs, Shaeffers, to name a few.
Code" There is a method to Nissan's madness with their not really synthetic
or high ester content "Nissan Ester". They created it to increase their
fleet mileage and reduce pollution in their engines...and it works, BUT, you
wouldn't want to leave it your engine for more than three months and
it's rediculously expensive.
If a manufacturer uses a part (including oil) to establish their CAFE
ratings for pollution and MPG, they must use that same part
as OEM when they sell the car as "new". That same goofy law is what
allows Nissan to "recommend Nissan Ester" in their VQ VVEL engines
because it is in fact OEM. It's literally as simple as that.
eksigned, you asked for my opinion so here it is. The VVEL system
is open and closed by an "actuator motor" that is literally driven by
oil pressure. The VVEL components also generate very high heat very
quickly everytime the pedal gets punched. Ester is perfect in this
engine because it flows to and seeks heat unlike non-ester oils.
it also builds pressure quicker because it is polar and is literally
attracted to metal at the molecular level. This provides quicker
VVEL response (even if only by microseconds) It is not required,
but it privides superior lubrication in this and many other high-tech
high output engines.
I personally use Redline because I can get it shipped to my
door in two days for $9/quart. OG Racing or Summit usually
have the best deals/free shipping. On filters...I use PureOnes
which are very popular with the high performance motorcycle
crowd. They perform at or near the high end level of the
M1 and K&N filters for less than half the price. They are rated
at 99.9% first pass effecient @ 40 microns and are available
at most chain parts stores. This combination gives me total
peace-of-mind in my cars and motorcycles and I don't have
to ****-around with the time and expense of doing UOAs
anymore.
PU...I would put it in my G, but the verdict is still out on
how it performs or holds up to a hard driver like me.
I would use it, but I would start doing UOAs at 3K and
that time and expense is exactly what I wasted several
years and alot of bucks doing on my vehicles in the
past and don't want to do any longer.
Redline/PureOne oil change including paying my
mechanic for labor = $72. Nissan Ester oil change
at my local Infiniti dealer = $130 hope this helps.
Last edited by JonfromCB; 05-27-2010 at 11:56 AM.
05-27-2010, 11:17 AM
#17
for me I stick to Motul 8100 and a Wix filter from Napa.
I can get both total for 40.00
Since reading all the hype on vvel and knock and using ester oil, I decided why take a risk and use other oils, when the price is very close to non ester oils.
I can get both total for 40.00
Since reading all the hype on vvel and knock and using ester oil, I decided why take a risk and use other oils, when the price is very close to non ester oils.
05-27-2010, 02:30 PM
#18
RedG37SNC, CodeG, and eksigned....I'll try to respond to all three of your posts here
so please bear with me.
Red' how's that RLI working out for you? I wanted to use it, but just couldn't
stomach their shipping fees. You are right that all the popular oils that
say "synthetic" on the label are nothing but hydro-cracked semi-synthetics...
as is M1. Only in America could they be allowed to get away with that crap...brought
to us by our friends at Mobil/Exon. There are quite a few true synthetics,
Motul, RLI, Eneos, Fuchs, Shaeffers, to name a few.
Code" There is a method to Nissan's madness with their not really synthetic
or high ester content "Nissan Ester". They created it to increase their
fleet mileage and reduce pollution in their engines...and it works, BUT, you
wouldn't want to leave it your engine for more than three months and
it's rediculously expensive.
If a manufacturer uses a part (including oil) to establish their CAFE
ratings for pollution and MPG, they must use that same part
as OEM when they sell the car as "new". That same goofy law is what
allows Nissan to "recommend Nissan Ester" in their VQ VVEL engines
because it is in fact OEM. It's literally as simple as that.
eksigned, you asked for my opinion so here it is. The VVEL system
is open and closed by an "actuator motor" that is literally driven by
oil pressure. The VVEL components also generate very high heat very
quickly everytime the pedal gets punched. Ester is perfect in this
engine because it flows to and seeks heat unlike non-ester oils.
it also builds pressure quicker because it is polar and is literally
attracted to metal at the molecular level. This provides quicker
VVEL response (even if only by microseconds) It is not required,
but it privides superior lubrication in this and many other high-tech
high output engines.
I personally use Redline because I can get it shipped to my
door in two days for $9/quart. OG Racing or Summit usually
have the best deals/free shipping. On filters...I use PureOnes
which are very popular with the high performance motorcycle
crowd. They perform at or near the high end level of the
M1 and K&N filters for less than half the price. They are rated
at 99.9% first pass effecient @ 40 microns and are available
at most chain parts stores. This combination gives me total
peace-of-mind in my cars and motorcycles and I don't have
to ****-around with the time and expense of doing UOAs
anymore.
PU...I would put it in my G, but the verdict is still out on
how it performs or holds up to a hard driver like me.
I would use it, but I would start doing UOAs at 3K and
that time and expense is exactly what I wasted several
years and alot of bucks doing on my vehicles in the
past and don't want to do any longer.
Redline/PureOne oil change including paying my
mechanic for labor = $72. Nissan Ester oil change
at my local Infiniti dealer = $130 hope this helps.
so please bear with me.
Red' how's that RLI working out for you? I wanted to use it, but just couldn't
stomach their shipping fees. You are right that all the popular oils that
say "synthetic" on the label are nothing but hydro-cracked semi-synthetics...
as is M1. Only in America could they be allowed to get away with that crap...brought
to us by our friends at Mobil/Exon. There are quite a few true synthetics,
Motul, RLI, Eneos, Fuchs, Shaeffers, to name a few.
Code" There is a method to Nissan's madness with their not really synthetic
or high ester content "Nissan Ester". They created it to increase their
fleet mileage and reduce pollution in their engines...and it works, BUT, you
wouldn't want to leave it your engine for more than three months and
it's rediculously expensive.
If a manufacturer uses a part (including oil) to establish their CAFE
ratings for pollution and MPG, they must use that same part
as OEM when they sell the car as "new". That same goofy law is what
allows Nissan to "recommend Nissan Ester" in their VQ VVEL engines
because it is in fact OEM. It's literally as simple as that.
eksigned, you asked for my opinion so here it is. The VVEL system
is open and closed by an "actuator motor" that is literally driven by
oil pressure. The VVEL components also generate very high heat very
quickly everytime the pedal gets punched. Ester is perfect in this
engine because it flows to and seeks heat unlike non-ester oils.
it also builds pressure quicker because it is polar and is literally
attracted to metal at the molecular level. This provides quicker
VVEL response (even if only by microseconds) It is not required,
but it privides superior lubrication in this and many other high-tech
high output engines.
I personally use Redline because I can get it shipped to my
door in two days for $9/quart. OG Racing or Summit usually
have the best deals/free shipping. On filters...I use PureOnes
which are very popular with the high performance motorcycle
crowd. They perform at or near the high end level of the
M1 and K&N filters for less than half the price. They are rated
at 99.9% first pass effecient @ 40 microns and are available
at most chain parts stores. This combination gives me total
peace-of-mind in my cars and motorcycles and I don't have
to ****-around with the time and expense of doing UOAs
anymore.
PU...I would put it in my G, but the verdict is still out on
how it performs or holds up to a hard driver like me.
I would use it, but I would start doing UOAs at 3K and
that time and expense is exactly what I wasted several
years and alot of bucks doing on my vehicles in the
past and don't want to do any longer.
Redline/PureOne oil change including paying my
mechanic for labor = $72. Nissan Ester oil change
at my local Infiniti dealer = $130 hope this helps.
Thanks for the quick reply. I couldn't agree more that Redline is indeed the safe bet. May I ask what your oil change intervals are? I used to run RP (I know...) for roughly 4000 miles between changes on my previous car. Stupid, I know. I thought extending the OCI with higher end oils was doing more harm than good. Meh! Anyways, thanks for all the advise. Redline it is...
05-27-2010, 03:43 PM
#19
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^just curious, is the "RP (I know...)" comment based on personally having issue when using it or the kinda 'standard' dislike of RP? I don't have an opinion myself on it, or anything to base one on, but wondering...thanks
05-27-2010, 10:13 PM
#20
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About 1.5 MPG more. I was normally getting about 330 miles a tank, I'm getting about 360 now. Could justify the extra cost of the ester oil if it is causing the mpg increase - especially if I increase the oil change interval to 5K or 6K miles.
05-27-2010, 11:46 PM
#21
Registered User
Jon,
Thanks for the quick reply. I couldn't agree more that Redline is indeed the safe bet. May I ask what your oil change intervals are? I used to run RP (I know...) for roughly 4000 miles between changes on my previous car. Stupid, I know. I thought extending the OCI with higher end oils was doing more harm than good. Meh! Anyways, thanks for all the advise. Redline it is...
Thanks for the quick reply. I couldn't agree more that Redline is indeed the safe bet. May I ask what your oil change intervals are? I used to run RP (I know...) for roughly 4000 miles between changes on my previous car. Stupid, I know. I thought extending the OCI with higher end oils was doing more harm than good. Meh! Anyways, thanks for all the advise. Redline it is...
and tire rotation every 5K.
05-27-2010, 11:52 PM
#22
Registered User
Which Motul are you running and where do you get it for that
great price?
05-28-2010, 11:17 AM
#23
My local Nissan dealership (westcovina nissan) buys it in bulk by the 5.1 gal jug at retails it for 34.00 after tax picked up. and the oil filter is bought for like 6.00 at napa auto store.
the dealer does ship but I think they charge like 12.00 to ship it.
motul 8100 eco energy is the oil I use.
05-28-2010, 12:09 PM
#24
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Just had my first oil change done yesterday at 4,000 miles. They charged $90 for Motul Ester Synthetic at Infiniti of Montclaire (SoCal). The breakdown on the invoice are $55 material (oil + filter) and $35 labor, including car wash. I think it is pretty reasonable for at a dealership. They also performed the update/recall of radio seek switch on the steering wheel.
Honestly, I have yet to feel any difference before and after the oil change, which is not necessary bad since my car has been running very smoothly since day 1. I will see how the MPG change (improve, I hope) with the ester synthetic.
BTW, anyone know what is the factory fill?
Honestly, I have yet to feel any difference before and after the oil change, which is not necessary bad since my car has been running very smoothly since day 1. I will see how the MPG change (improve, I hope) with the ester synthetic.
BTW, anyone know what is the factory fill?
05-28-2010, 12:25 PM
#25
Just had my first oil change done yesterday at 4,000 miles. They charged $90 for Motul Ester Synthetic at Infiniti of Montclaire (SoCal). The breakdown on the invoice are $55 material (oil + filter) and $35 labor, including car wash. I think it is pretty reasonable for at a dealership. They also performed the update/recall of radio seek switch on the steering wheel.
Honestly, I have yet to feel any difference before and after the oil change, which is not necessary bad since my car has been running very smoothly since day 1. I will see how the MPG change (improve, I hope) with the ester synthetic.
BTW, anyone know what is the factory fill?
Honestly, I have yet to feel any difference before and after the oil change, which is not necessary bad since my car has been running very smoothly since day 1. I will see how the MPG change (improve, I hope) with the ester synthetic.
BTW, anyone know what is the factory fill?
05-28-2010, 04:23 PM
#28
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Actually, Puente Hills Nissan is only like 5 miles from my work. They quoted 10 bucks cheaper than Montclaire. But figure in the free car wash, it is basically the same.
Besides, I do not think a Nissan dealer will be able to perform any TSB stuff that might be out there (such as the seek button on the steering wheel, which I knew going in).
Besides, I do not think a Nissan dealer will be able to perform any TSB stuff that might be out there (such as the seek button on the steering wheel, which I knew going in).
05-28-2010, 06:57 PM
#30
When I went in for my oil change this week, I stuck two post-it notes on the interior (on the Nav and next to the shifter) stating "NO WASH" in red letters. I then had the SA write the same on the work order, and explained that I would be charging the dealer for polishing if they washed the car.
I probably sounded like a jerk, but I've had too many experiences with the car going through the swirl-o-matic after I specifically request that it doesn't.