Guess what i was quoted for an oil change?
03-08-2010, 01:23 AM
#31
Registered User
So it does makes sense. Nissan's Ester oil is not real Ester oil.
Otherwise, IMO it would be too aggressive for daily drivers.
Just a quick fix to solve the knocking problem that Nissan engines had/have.
Should have the fixed the engine, instead of just covering it with the new oil.
Otherwise, IMO it would be too aggressive for daily drivers.
Just a quick fix to solve the knocking problem that Nissan engines had/have.
Should have the fixed the engine, instead of just covering it with the new oil.
03-08-2010, 10:54 AM
#34
Man, I bought a case (6 qt) of M1 5W30 at Costco the other day for $35, but it seems a lot of people on the forum think it's no good. Now that I think about it, I guess it wasn't THAT great of a deal. Anyway, now I'm thinking I should take it back and buy a jug of PP or PU from Walmart...
03-08-2010, 11:31 AM
#35
Registered User
Man, I bought a case (6 qt) of M1 5W30 at Costco the other day for $35, but it seems a lot of people on the forum think it's no good. Now that I think about it, I guess it wasn't THAT great of a deal. Anyway, now I'm thinking I should take it back and buy a jug of PP or PU from Walmart...
Now that's thinking with your dipstick Jimmy!...sorry, couldn't resist
03-08-2010, 12:49 PM
#36
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: at work
Posts: 2,157
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I buy 5quart containers at walmart of pennzoil platinum full synthetic for $20. I bring it to dealership and they charge me 20 ish for labor. So for a full synthtic oil change it cost me ~ 40 bucks.
03-08-2010, 01:38 PM
#37
Registered User
It's a group II petroleum base stock with ester additives.
You guys are implying that the Nissan Ester oil, even though it's a Group V ester is perfectly acceptable for daily driving. This is misleading. A true Group V is NOT ideal for daily driving. It may be ok, but it's not "ideal".
The reason that the Nissan "ester" is ok for daily driving is because it's not a true ester; as stated above it's a groupII base stock.
*reference BITOG.com for actual analysis supported by real data and not just typical forum opinion*
03-08-2010, 02:02 PM
#38
Neither one of you get it....the Nissan "ester" oil is not a Group V oil.
It's a group II petroleum base stock with ester additives.
You guys are implying that the Nissan Ester oil, even though it's a Group V ester is perfectly acceptable for daily driving. This is misleading. A true Group V is NOT ideal for daily driving. It may be ok, but it's not "ideal".
The reason that the Nissan "ester" is ok for daily driving is because it's not a true ester; as stated above it's a groupII base stock.
*reference BITOG.com for actual analysis supported by real data and not just typical forum opinion*
It's a group II petroleum base stock with ester additives.
You guys are implying that the Nissan Ester oil, even though it's a Group V ester is perfectly acceptable for daily driving. This is misleading. A true Group V is NOT ideal for daily driving. It may be ok, but it's not "ideal".
The reason that the Nissan "ester" is ok for daily driving is because it's not a true ester; as stated above it's a groupII base stock.
*reference BITOG.com for actual analysis supported by real data and not just typical forum opinion*
You've trying to say what I've been saying years ago. It's a conventional oil with an additive. It just also "happens" to fix the VVEL tick.
Oh, and since you're so adamant about a Group V oil not being suitable, here's a counter that you won't be able to dispute.
I UOA every change on my engine, diff, and trans, as well as virgin oil. This is a virgin sample of 300V, a Group V oil. It seems to have plenty of detergents that make it suitable for street driving.
You reference BOTIG. I contribute there regularly.
03-08-2010, 04:16 PM
#39
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 706
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
03-08-2010, 04:28 PM
#40
Reading comprehension fail. If it was ester oil, I'd call it ester oil, not "ester oil" in quotes. You're barking at the wrong tree buddy.
You've trying to say what I've been saying years ago. It's a conventional oil with an additive. It just also "happens" to fix the VVEL tick.
Oh, and since you're so adamant about a Group V oil not being suitable, here's a counter that you won't be able to dispute.
I UOA every change on my engine, diff, and trans, as well as virgin oil. This is a virgin sample of 300V, a Group V oil. It seems to have plenty of detergents that make it suitable for street driving.
You reference BOTIG. I contribute there regularly.
You've trying to say what I've been saying years ago. It's a conventional oil with an additive. It just also "happens" to fix the VVEL tick.
Oh, and since you're so adamant about a Group V oil not being suitable, here's a counter that you won't be able to dispute.
I UOA every change on my engine, diff, and trans, as well as virgin oil. This is a virgin sample of 300V, a Group V oil. It seems to have plenty of detergents that make it suitable for street driving.
You reference BOTIG. I contribute there regularly.
The only part of your post that fails is the BOTIG reference. BobOilTheIsGuy.com?
03-08-2010, 05:43 PM
#42
Registered User
Reading comprehension fail. If it was ester oil, I'd call it ester oil, not "ester oil" in quotes. You're barking at the wrong tree buddy.
You've trying to say what I've been saying years ago. It's a conventional oil with an additive. It just also "happens" to fix the VVEL tick.
Oh, and since you're so adamant about a Group V oil not being suitable, here's a counter that you won't be able to dispute.
I UOA every change on my engine, diff, and trans, as well as virgin oil. This is a virgin sample of 300V, a Group V oil. It seems to have plenty of detergents that make it suitable for street driving.
You reference BOTIG. I contribute there regularly.
You've trying to say what I've been saying years ago. It's a conventional oil with an additive. It just also "happens" to fix the VVEL tick.
Oh, and since you're so adamant about a Group V oil not being suitable, here's a counter that you won't be able to dispute.
I UOA every change on my engine, diff, and trans, as well as virgin oil. This is a virgin sample of 300V, a Group V oil. It seems to have plenty of detergents that make it suitable for street driving.
You reference BOTIG. I contribute there regularly.
Motul is a good oil obviously. I didn't say it wasn't "suitable," unsuitable means you shouldn't use it at all. I just said it's not "ideal" and I stand by that. It would still produce good results in a UOA, it certainly should, but it's not "ideal" <--check out the quotes, for daily street use. Motul and redline and the other true group V esters are "ideally" used in high RPM high heat applications. No matter how you treat your personal car, it's not an "ideal" <--check out the quotes again, oil for every Sam, Jane, and Harry's daily driver. For a DD you're wasting $15/quart (I don't know how much redline or motul is I just made that number up) on oil that you don't "need" for your DD. Where as a typical base III semi-syn would also be "suitable" and because it's a 3rd the price, one would argue, more "ideal."
I think I used up my "quotes" quota for the month.
03-08-2010, 08:24 PM
#43
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Im scheduled for my first oil change on my 09, and I have no idea what oil to get. The dealer recommends the ester oil, but there's no way im paying 125 for every oil change.
Someone please help me out...what's the best oil to use for everyday driving in the G37x coupe?
Someone please help me out...what's the best oil to use for everyday driving in the G37x coupe?
03-09-2010, 12:06 AM
#45
I was actually looking for PP today but my local Walmart was out of stock. I'm going boarding tomorrow, so I asked if the Walmart on the way has PP, which it does. Didn't ask about PU. So the major difference is the ester additives? And what OCI do you plan on changing at wakeboardr?