Don't sweat the color; that means the oil is doing its job.

 

Cool. Hey Mike, from my first UOA, what interval would you suggest? 5000mi?
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If you're driving the same, then 5000. If you're driving harder, maybe a little less 4000. Reason for this is that Eneos isn't a full synthetic (unless you are specifically buying the full synth), and your viscosity is on the lower range of the acceptable for a 30 weight. The VQ37 does run relatively hot, so if the oil is shearing, then your viscosity will continue to drop as the oil is wearing.

You may want to pay for TBN, ultimately that is what determines how much life your oil has left. If you go back to G-Chem, TBN is effectively a buffer solution, and running your engine is adding an acid.


I can't really say since I don't know how hard you drive...

If I have a virgin sample to compare with, I'll have much firmer recommendations

(on the other hand I should probably get a virgin sample done, as Motul is changing their formulas too... the virgin sample I sent in 3 years ago is weaker than the used samples i send in now... )

 

Actually, scratch the virgin sample.

I found this on the eneos website:

 

Based on that info, the oil IS breaking down. I wouldn't extend your interval out too much. You should be able to run longer based on the cooler weather we have now; your engine should be running cooler too.

 

Awesome. Thanks for all the info. I think I will just go ahead and change it this week at around 4000mi along with all my other fluids.
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Mike,
Are you changing oil before AND after trackdays? Or are you strictly following your oil analysis results to determine when to change it?

 

I go by a maintenance computer (determines interval by miles driven, type of driving, throttle position, etc). The UOA is mainly to see how my engine is doing, and to see if there is anything unusual, and to make sure the computer is accurate. Typically, I do have to add oil to compensate for blow-by.

I also UOA my tranny and diff fluids.


*edit*

I guess to answer your question: No. I do have an oil to water oil cooler. Most G/Z guys with oil coolers run oil to air coolers. Note that my samples don't come from a G, but I do run an engine that revs higher

 

alright, I HAVE NO FAWKING IDEA WHAT U FOOZ R TALKING ABOUT. So Eneos, run it or dont? hahaha

 

It works fine lol.

 

Hahah, yes, run it.
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To give perspective on how UOA's differ by engine,

Castrol Syntec European Formula 0W-30 on last two fills and dealership dino oil on the 3k mile oil sample. The change at 7407 mi done after 4 hard sessions at Big Willow

 

I know this question has been mentioned many times, but would it be bad to switch to Eneos 5w30 for my first oil change (~4000 miles)??

 

My latest UOA for Eneos 5w30. I have every confidence that I can run it at 7500 mile OCI and never have to think twice about it.

 

ucla bruin & Black Betty:

Thanks so much for posting your UOAs on Eneos!

I discovered that I can get Eneos delivered to my door for $6.99 a quart, or more than $2/quart less than RedLine.

And Eneos is API-certified like the manual specifies. RedLine is not.

Looks like I have found my synthetic. Thanks again for paving the way.