Mobil1 oil
05-07-2009, 01:23 PM
#16
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If you just want to pay for synthetic for your own peace of mind, that's fine. But if you are changing every 3750, it really doesn't matter if you have group III or group IV, you aren't running it enough miles to matter anyway. There's not an oil you can buy, synthetic or dino, that is goind to break down in that short an OCI.
05-07-2009, 08:35 PM
#17
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If you just want to pay for synthetic for your own peace of mind, that's fine. But if you are changing every 3750, it really doesn't matter if you have group III or group IV, you aren't running it enough miles to matter anyway. There's not an oil you can buy, synthetic or dino, that is goind to break down in that short an OCI.
05-07-2009, 08:41 PM
#18
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Well if I was running extended OCI's I would definitely run an oil like Amsoil or Redline or Motul (which I know are more expensive and better group stocks). However, to keep my warranty valid, I'm taking my own oil to the dealer at 3750 OCI and running a better group III oil (which can be had for $20 in a 5 qt jug). It should lubricate a tad better, keep the engine cleaner, and isn't as expensive as the above named oils. I'm going to do a few UOAs on this oil and if it doesn't do as well as they say it does on bobistheoilguy, then I'll admit failure and switch to a group IV/V.
As an aside, regardless of which OCI you follow, or which basestock oil you use, there is zero, as in no chance, of you having an failure of an oil lubricated surface inside your engine during the warranty period. Unless, of course, you are racing the car, in which case you have no warranty anyway.
05-07-2009, 08:46 PM
#19
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You can keep your warranty valid by using the 7500 mile OCI specified in the literature that came with your car. No need to follow the "premium' schedule to maintain your warranty. Nor is there any need to have the dealer perform the oil changes.
As an aside, regardless of which OCI you follow, or which basestock oil you use, there is zero, as in no chance, of you having an failure of an oil lubricated surface inside your engine during the warranty period. Unless, of course, you are racing the car, in which case you have no warranty anyway.
As an aside, regardless of which OCI you follow, or which basestock oil you use, there is zero, as in no chance, of you having an failure of an oil lubricated surface inside your engine during the warranty period. Unless, of course, you are racing the car, in which case you have no warranty anyway.
That's actually absolutely true....hmmmmm....now I'm thinking.....lol. Damn, I hate getting set on something in my mind and then reconsidering it.
05-08-2009, 07:24 AM
#21
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09-06-2009, 11:42 AM
#22
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0W-40 VS 5W-30..
which one to pick? and yeah i drive the car hard.. so can any 1 tell me what oil to get? the 0W or 5W?
09-07-2009, 12:18 AM
#23
VQ Oil Analysis and Info - MY350Z.COM Forums
FWIW, I use Mobil 1, 0W-40 in my motor.
09-08-2009, 11:20 PM
#24
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I'm pretty sure our dealership uses 5w-30 Mobil 1 synthetic blend by default for oil changes. Since the car isnt driven hard on a day-to-day basis, I dont think it'll do any harm even if it doesn't perform as well under high-revving conditions as some other brands.
09-11-2009, 12:39 PM
#26
If you just want to pay for synthetic for your own peace of mind, that's fine. But if you are changing every 3750, it really doesn't matter if you have group III or group IV, you aren't running it enough miles to matter anyway. There's not an oil you can buy, synthetic or dino, that is goind to break down in that short an OCI.
09-11-2009, 01:40 PM
#27
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Ive gone through a few oil changes on my G and ive always used mobil 1 syn 5w 30. I dont know if this "myth" is still true about penzoil but the wax that comes from their oil stick to your pan which causes buildup and other grime to get easily caught in the pan. Ive not had one problem using mobil 1 syn and ive always changed it 3,000 miles on the dot.
09-12-2009, 10:36 AM
#28
Registered User
I agree with most of what has been said here. I'm figuring out what I want to
use in my new 3.7 and I'm learning as fast as I can do the research. The new
new VVel is a very different engine from the the 3.5...over one third of the parts
are different. Nissan is very pointed that the new engine likes, needs and wants
easter as compared to the 3.5 and there is too much proof to discount it as
a gimmick to market their oil. After all, Nissan is in the car business not the oil
business.
I've seen enough UOAs for the 3.5 to safetly say M1 gets results for most.
I haven't seen enough UOAs for the 3.7 to convince me to use M1 5w30
in my 3.7. I'm pretty convinced that it can't handle the heat in the
3.7. I might consider using the M1 0-40, but that would be the only
M1 product I would consider for the 3.7
If I stick to the 3700 mile OCI, my opinion is that the Nissan Ester must be
considered the oil of choice except it is so darned expensive.
I have seen enough UOAs on the 3.5 that my oil of choice would be PP 3w30
at 5K OCIs for that engine. It is showing the best UOAs I've ever seen in
every 3.5 application that is getting posted...consistently close to 0 wear!!!!
and I'm with Knoxville and will probably "try it" in my 3.7, but only with
UOAs and OCIs at 3K and 3 changes will I make up my mind.
The oil I will probably use is Redline 5w30 at 5k OCIs with the long PureOne filter.
It exceeds all the recommended factory specs, is ester based and can
easily handle the heat. At less than $9/quart delivered to my door, it's my oil
of choice for the 3.7 right now.
My dealer will put whatever I want in it. I wouldn't be so parinoid about the
warranty as some here seem to be. The manufacturers "recommend" minimum
specifications and if you use other products that meet or exceed those
minimums whether they are certified or not, in my opinion you'll be OK.
I've"been there" with a blown engine that the dealer did't do oil changes on.
I documented the oil changes in the manufacturers service log, but did
not have reciepts for oil and filters and they said that was OK as long
as it was documented. They did a oil analysis on the oil in the
engine at the time of failure. As soon as it came back showing the
additives were not used up, they replaced the engine
use in my new 3.7 and I'm learning as fast as I can do the research. The new
new VVel is a very different engine from the the 3.5...over one third of the parts
are different. Nissan is very pointed that the new engine likes, needs and wants
easter as compared to the 3.5 and there is too much proof to discount it as
a gimmick to market their oil. After all, Nissan is in the car business not the oil
business.
I've seen enough UOAs for the 3.5 to safetly say M1 gets results for most.
I haven't seen enough UOAs for the 3.7 to convince me to use M1 5w30
in my 3.7. I'm pretty convinced that it can't handle the heat in the
3.7. I might consider using the M1 0-40, but that would be the only
M1 product I would consider for the 3.7
If I stick to the 3700 mile OCI, my opinion is that the Nissan Ester must be
considered the oil of choice except it is so darned expensive.
I have seen enough UOAs on the 3.5 that my oil of choice would be PP 3w30
at 5K OCIs for that engine. It is showing the best UOAs I've ever seen in
every 3.5 application that is getting posted...consistently close to 0 wear!!!!
and I'm with Knoxville and will probably "try it" in my 3.7, but only with
UOAs and OCIs at 3K and 3 changes will I make up my mind.
The oil I will probably use is Redline 5w30 at 5k OCIs with the long PureOne filter.
It exceeds all the recommended factory specs, is ester based and can
easily handle the heat. At less than $9/quart delivered to my door, it's my oil
of choice for the 3.7 right now.
My dealer will put whatever I want in it. I wouldn't be so parinoid about the
warranty as some here seem to be. The manufacturers "recommend" minimum
specifications and if you use other products that meet or exceed those
minimums whether they are certified or not, in my opinion you'll be OK.
I've"been there" with a blown engine that the dealer did't do oil changes on.
I documented the oil changes in the manufacturers service log, but did
not have reciepts for oil and filters and they said that was OK as long
as it was documented. They did a oil analysis on the oil in the
engine at the time of failure. As soon as it came back showing the
additives were not used up, they replaced the engine
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