Just came from Dealership picking up the brass washers for oil pan drain bolt.

Service manager told me that my 08 G37S purchased 3 weeks ago has the new Nissan Ester base oil stock from Factory.

This goes against the topics of the G37S engines having to be broken in with conventional oil.

So it seems synthetics are ok for new engines from the get-go.

Dealership also uses Mobil1 and even the saleswoman there with a tricked 08 G37S uses it.

What do you guys think?

 

ester oil is basically made from plants and some animal parts. Mostly vegetables. . the reason why is cost more is because of the process it takes to get it from point a to point b.

whats the hype about ester? it supposedly is attracted to metal because of a
electromagnetic bond. so in theory, it provides better protection against cold start up.

but for breaking in an engine.. i dont know. one would think dyno oil is better for it.. from what i have herd.

 

I think this has been covered and discussed in other posts here. The Nissan Ester oil is a conventional 5W-30 (not synthetic) with an ester (or esters) additive.

Apparently, like Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca, you must have been misinformed.

 

Sorry just seems that there is more a debate in the threads.

Just over causcious its a new car. I here a different story every time LOL!



Oh just to add I spoke to the Mechinc at the dealership and he told me that you can use reqular oil no prob.

But you will get a knoking/ticking noise at about 2,000 rpm with conventional. He said the Nissan Oil gets rid of the noise.

I asked him if there was any alternatives for that oil. He said not that he had known of yet on the market. But he also said he has only at that dealership used Castrol and Mobil 1 other than the Ester base oil.

He also noted that the stock mini oil filter should be used. He said some larger oil filters will lower oil presure.

 

And still, you continue to be misinformed.

What we do know about this oil has been posted. This is not really that difficult. Clearly, if the VVEL knocking could be fully cured simply by changing oil, then, why did the Factory issue new software to correct the VVEL knocking? And, why does the new software work? Your engine will hardly ever be at 2,000 rpm. You won't idle at 2,000 rpm. You won't cruise at 2,000 rpm. You will pass 2,000 rpm in first gear before you shift into second. And, maybe if you drive really really conservatively, you might pass 2,000 rpm in second gear before you shift into third. If this mechanic is saying a knock will begin at 2,000 rpm and then continue. Well, logically, if the knock were rpm related and it wasn't noticeable until 2,000 rpm, wouldn't it become more noticeable as the revs increased? Are you hearing any knocking or ticking? Is your VVEL software the current edition?

I haven't used the Nissan Ester oil in the 11,000 miles I have on my car. I did get the "original" VVEL knock, and the TSB has cured it. Other than that, I have no knocking or ticking.

P.S. Most oils have an ester additive or a combination of ester additives.

P.P.S. Most larger oil filters allow more oil to be carried in the system. (More space equals more capacity leading to more oil to fill the additional capacity.) Many people like the longer filters simply because it allows them to add a bit more oil. The additional oil would lead to increased pressure, if any change to the pressure, not less. I wonder about this mechanic's intuitive abilities. He may be able to follow directions, but I question his true understanding of the mechanics and engineering of a modern car engine.

 

No he said around 2,000 RPM. I dont think he is lying because he explained he had pepole complainng about it and they had to dyno some cars to figure it out.

Also I just changed Oil with Nissain Ester to play it safe for my completed break-in. NO SOFTWARE RE_FLASH/UPDATE here.

I'm curious what oil do you have in your car?

I hear alot of poeple debating but not helping!

I dont see a post that says: These are oils you can use with no issues????

 

I am not saying he is lying. But, it does sound like he is embellishing the truth. Infiniti's policy is to NOT pay for dynomometer tests, either in-house or outside. Since most dealers do not have in-house dynomometers, that would mean your dealership is paying for customer dyno runs out its own pocket. Does make sense or seem logical?

Your car may not need the updated software. The first step of the TSB is to read the vehicle's software edition. If not the most current, update. If the most current, obviously, do not update. If your car was made after approximately March, maybe a little earlier, you should have the most current software.

Only because I know a few Valvoline engineers, I use Valvoline. I have used mostly Valvoline for about 35 years, including in the street and race cars when I was with a German sports car manufacturer and the street and off-road cars when I was with one of the original off-road/SUV manufacturers. I changed to Valvoline conventional 5W-30 at 3,750 and 7,500 miles. I will change to the same tomorrow at 11,250 miles. I followed Nissan's unofficial advice to stick with conventional for about 15,000 miles. Plus, changing every 3,750 miles means the viscosity index improvers are still working almost about 100% as when new and there shouldn't be any noticeable breakdown of additives. I will change to Valvoline DuraBlend at 15,000 miles and stick with it, changing every 3,750 miles. I have used the Purolator Pure One filter with each change.

Visiti www.bobistheoilguy.com and you will learn more about oil than anywhere else from people who really study this stuff. On most enthusiast forums you'll mostly get a lot of wive's tales and second hand stuff not supported by reasearch or tests. Discount most of these "I've used XXX for 200,000 miles and my engine's still running perfectly" posts. If you change your oil every 3K miles, and use bulk oil with OEM filters, almost any modern engine will run for 200K miles (as long as all other engine related components are properly maintained and you run "decent" gas).

 

Thanks for info notalk!

 

I just had my 7,500 service done. Just on oil change really. The service advisor was trying to sell me on getting the ester oil, which they charge something around $150/oil change. I said no thanks and stuck with the regular $35 oil change using conventional oil. He was saying that going forward Ifiniti recommends using the ester oil for the G37. Is he full of isht and just trying to sell me an unnecessary service or should I be worried?

 

Contrary to popular belief, engines are 1. Intially broken in with Dino oil at the factory 2. 95% ring seating takes place within the first 20 min (hence the intial break-in). Whenever I have rebuilt my engines I personally never used synthetic on intial break in and would use conventional for the first 5K or so.

 

hey man if you r woundering what oil to use ?..... you know what . i m using the ester 5w30 in my g37s and my Versa MR18DE and i have found in my g37 engine is running very quiet and my Versa too
also i have tested it take less cranking AMPs to start the engine and i gain around 40km per tank of gas

 

by the way i haven't had the ECM Update on my EcM Yet

 

the larger filter has more space . the oil has to fill that space before the oil pressure can be build up. in another word . it will take longer time before the oil can reach to the engine moving parts . this is why smaller oil filter is used in most engines .mostly small oil filter is good for everyday driving conditions , also shipping too

 

Thanks for info! Are you a Nissan mechanic?

 

Hello all, I can't seem to find the tsb for the knocking in our vvel for 2009 G37 sedan (only saw tsb for the 2008 coupe). Would anyone be able to provide me a copy of this tsb. I have 7k and I got the ester oil in my car and is now due again. I still hear the knock and I would like to get this tsb so that I can present this to my advisor on my next visit.