nosocoeckodoz

Yeah, my excuse for not changing my own oil was a **** poor one. Perhaps I'll start. How often do you check your oil? What oil do you use? What other maintenance do you do routinely?

Achilles

You could just take it somewhere else to get it changed. It doesn't have to be done by the dealership. Find a place you trust (and I don't mean a different dealership) and stick with them.

nosocoeckodoz

I moved to a new area ( to be closer to work ) and I am not familiar with any of the local garages. I guess I will do some asking around and create some loyalty!

1BADV6

iTrader: (7)

Check every 1K miles, usually, but change every 5K (see next line).

I use Mobil1 full synthetic 5w-30 so that is why I wait 5K for changes. You'll need a 5 quart size, and then a spare 1 quart of the same weight and brand. You'll see why toward the end.

I use a Mobil1 oil filter.

You will need new copper crush washers for the oil changes on the G. You can go to any Nissan or Infiniti dealership and get them for less than a dollar a piece. Ask them for the copper crush washer for the VQ motor and you will be set. I bought 6 of them for $5 so I have plenty on hand.

If you are on stock suspension, you have 2 options. Jack the car up and be annoyed...or buy a set of $20 Rhino Ramps. If you have never used ramps before, it would be wise to have a second person with you for the first time to pull on to them so you don't go all the way over. It is easy but practice makes perfect. Don't forget to set your e-brake and leave it in park or in gear in a manual.

While at Autozone or whatever store, buy an oil drain pan. This handy thing lets you drain your oil neatly and be able to take it back and drain the oil to recycle for free.

Now remove the back 10-15 screws and push pins from the plastic aero cover under your engine. Remove them all the way to the front bumper, which will allow it to fold down and expose the filter and drain plug.

Take off drain plug with drain pan under the hole, and drain the oil out. While it is draining, grab a water to drink while you wait. Now pry the old crush washer off of the drain plug and throw it away. Install a new one, with the "open end" facing the oil pan. When the oil finishes draining, install the drain plug. Hand tight with the socket wrench is good. Don't over tighten it (putting too much muscle in) as you'll have a rough time getting it back off in a few months.

Now to get the filter off. The first time around (and sometimes after) it is tough to get off. I'd advise a handy oil filter wrench, which gets it off safely without puncturing the filter and making a mess. This is also available at Autozone. Put the oil drain pan under the filter, and remove (lefty loosy). Once the filter is off, be sure the black rubber seal is still attached to the filter. Inspect your new filter to see what I am talking about. There have been times that this separates from the filter and will stay stuck to the mount and when you put the new filter on can cause a bad seal and you leak oil. Lube the new rubber washer on the filter with new oil, which keeps it fresh and helps to get a good seal. IF you are really frisky and careful, you can fill the filter half way with new oil, which helps circulate oil into the system immediately on startup. This is kinda tough to do and you will probably spill some. This takes practice, and I still make a mess doing it. The recommendation with the filter is to screw it tight and then 3 rotations. So don't put it on with all your might. Spin it until it is fully threaded and starts to compress the washer, and then 3 rotations to compress the new rubber washer on the filter to make the seal in the housing.

Reattach all the screws and pins for the aero cover.

Put in the oil. I think it is 5.2 quarts for a full change with filter. Put the 5 in and then put the car down. Make sure it is on a level surface and check it. If you need the extra .2 or so, that is why you bought the extra quart. IT doesn't cost a lot and pays to have on hand.

I know the cost of the oil I uses costs as much as a regular change, however a full synthetic change (assuming the place offers it) will be way more. You also need to buy a few extra things to make it efficient, but you'll have those for years. I've had my ramps for about 6 years, the drain pan for 10, and the filter wrench for about 10. So trust me, you get your investment back over time. And you also don't have to worry about having the problem the OP did.

Trust me in saying that you may be OK if you are not a heavy modder but are inclined. If you can replace or add a processor to a case and do other intricate work in a PC or server I would think you'll be OK. I advise to take your time and think through what you are doing. I also wouldn't recommend going and installing suspension or anything, but I think a good start is changing oil.

nosocoeckodoz

Thank you for that detailed brief. I am about to hit 1000 so I will make sure I print all of that out and go from there. I definitely do not want to end up like OP.