no fight fight then?

 

You're trying to fuel a fire that never was.

I respect what BB has to say and thinks he's one of the more knowledgeable people on this forum. He clearly nailed me on the oil color thing but I had my point, too. At least I'll admit I was wrong on that one.

I use Valvoline because a friend of mine runs the shop where I have the oil changed. If he was selling Castrol or something else, I'd be using that.

So it turns out the BB and I pretty much have the same opinion on oil and gas. I also buy the cheapest gas I can find. Never had a problem.

I would say Get a Life but, for you, I'll say Get a Car!

 

shumby goes and cries in the garage again.

 

Very nice!

 

I think a better way to state your point was that all oils are "good enough" for general automotive application. The industry standards only set a mandatory "floor", but in no way does that imply a "ceiling". In the mega billion dollar oil industry competition is tight, but when you start pushing oils to their extreme limits, is when differences are apparent.

 

Below is my recent analysis by MRT Laboratories & Terry Dyson:

 

Hmmm...fewer wear metals than me...I'm jealous. Your fuel % is higher though. Interesting.

 

Fuel % is probably due to different driving styles or conditions. My commute is about 50% city/ 50% highway and is about 14 miles.

Or, it could be the additive pack in the gas you use that helps reduce fuel dilution. One of the things Terry recommended is to use Shell V Power because it contains an additive to reduce fuel dilution in direct injection engines.

 

WOW. That is just a horrible analysis. High wear metals and the viscosity is sheared down. Silicon is way high too, do you drive in a very dusty area? I'm not a big Amsoil fan, but it is a pretty decent oil, so there is something else going on here. After only 2800 miles no less. Do you track the car regularly? The fuel is usually from starting and running the engine right before the oil change. Either don't start it or drive it until thoroughly warmed up.

 

No, I don't live in a dusty area and have not tracked my car. At least, not yet! This is actually the break-in oil, so all wear metals are elevated. Both the engine and the oil have a total of 2825 miles on them. Terry actually commented on how well the engine is breaking-in in comparision to others he has seen in analysis. Based on his previous recommendation, I use Amsoil to break-in the Nissan VQs. I will be running Amsoil SSO 0w30 until 3750 and then switch to ester based RLI Bio-Syn 0w30.

 

good info here. i plan on staying stock for the first oil change around 3000 miles then going full synthetic. i ran mobil 1 on my g35 with 6000 mile changeouts and was very happy with it. also just used the stock filters.

 

..Silent06, Terry had no comment on break-in using Amsoil..???
Did your analysis run with stock Nissan filter?

 

Infiniti says the G37 uses sequential multi-point fuel injection, not direct injection.

 

Depending on what your asking, Terry commented that he was suprised at how well the engine was breaking-in in comparison to others he has seen, that Amsoil is good oil and is doing very well for the application of engine break-in. I specifically questioned how the rings were seating and sealing as I am concerned about blow-by and oil consumtion of which some Nissan engines have a history. Terry stated the rings are also seating and sealing very well, though break-in is not complete, but blow-by and consumption should not be a concern my G's engine.

If you asking about switching to synthetic from 0 miles on the engine, Terry told me years ago that there is no need to wait to switch and that, if possible, you always want to use an oil with a robust formulation for break-in. This has recently been noted by the fact of Nissan adding an ester additive to conventional oil, in an attempt, to pick up or boost the formulation. You just have to use it as if it were a conventional break-in oil following the manufacturers" break-in procedures, providing high compression for ring seating, and not run it for an extended OCI. So, while I could use a cheaper oil with a comparable oil formulation to Amsoil, I simply choose not to.

No, I was not using an OEM filter. I was using an Amsoil EaO20, which is oversized, but based on Terry's recommendation have switched to EaO12 that is outlined by Amsoil as exact OEM specs.

Additionally, the continued use of Amsoil is not my long term plan. At 3750, I will be switching to ester based RLI Bio-Syn 0w30 and RLI Bio-Syn 75w90 gear oil for the differential which was also changed at 0 and 2825 miles because it is important to change the differential break-in oil too. Below is the link for RLI (Renewable Lubricants, Inc.)

http://www.renewablelube.com/

 

Thanks for clarifying. I should have stated it better. The additive is to reduce fuel dilution independent of the fuel injection application, but is obviously more benificial in direct injection.

Confirmed by Terry. The fuel dilution is most likely due to allowing the car to warm up at startup for 2 minutes, which I changed base on the owners' manual recomendation to allow a minumum of 30 seconds for warm up. I have reverted back to a waiting 30 seconds after startup to ensure oil pressure is equalized and allowing the car to warm up under load at low RPMs until the coolant heats up.