Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
Have Technical Questions or Done Modifications to the G37? Find out the answer in here!

Synthetic Oil

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-07-2008, 10:03 AM
  #1  
G37MA
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
G37MA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 233
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Synthetic Oil

Hi Guys,
Just called in to make an appointment with the dealer for my assortment of small problems. Over the phone the service guy Ted @ Herb Chambers Boston said that Infniti doesn't recommend synthetic oil and will not cover damage due from it. He also says that mobil 1 oil filters are no good and to only use Infiniti's. Is this a guy who doesn't know what hes talking about or is there some merit to this? Thanks
Old 07-07-2008, 10:13 AM
  #2  
Black Betty
Lexus Defector
iTrader: (60)
 
Black Betty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 21,148
Received 2,087 Likes on 1,267 Posts
Put on your flame suit and be ready.

My PERSONAL OPINION based on what I've read from credible sources and my own experience is that I wouldn't change to synthetic oil until at least 20K on your engine. A whole lot of people on this forum will strongly disagree with me. I can't say whether doing so would void your warranty, only Infiniti can make that determination. If you have problems directly related to motor oil and you are using synthetic against their recommendation, then by all means it would not be covered. I haven't read the exact wording in the owner's manual lately and am too lazy to look it up right now. You should.

Can't vouch for or against Mobil 1 filters. A lot of people swear that they must be great because they are expensive. Whatever. What I do know is that the OEM filters aren't bad at all. Other than those, I've seen filter tests (ages ago so don't ask me where) that consistently put Wix on or near the top i most every category. They haven't let me down in the past 15 years or so. Napa Gold filters are Napa's house brand of Wix filters or at least they used to be. Hope this helps.
Old 07-07-2008, 10:16 AM
  #3  
G37MA
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
G37MA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 233
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I looked in the manual and it doesn't say not to use synthetic. I don't want this to start the whole debate again more trying to see if my dealer is knowledgeable.
Old 07-07-2008, 11:11 AM
  #4  
Taktix1
Registered User
 
Taktix1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: DC/MD/VA
Posts: 766
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I think some dealers are against sythenic as it makes the oil change intervals longer...ie: less money for them
Old 07-07-2008, 11:30 AM
  #5  
weave
Registered User
 
weave's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 448
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Unless Infiniti has a printed warning or disclaimer about using synthetic, they cannot void your warranty as a result. I personally think the guy you spoke to is an idiot and yet more proof that God has a sense of humor.

I went to Mobil filters and 0w-40 on my first oil change and will continue to use this combination. Let there be an oil related failure and they deny my claim.....I promise you I would win in court.

Last edited by weave; 07-07-2008 at 11:57 AM.
Old 07-07-2008, 11:31 AM
  #6  
Kream
Registered User
 
Kream's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: ATX
Posts: 246
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I run mobil 1 0w40 and mobil 1 oil filter since 7.5k. I change my oil/filter every 3500-3700 miles. I'm currently @ 23k. Austin Infinti told me our cars can run synthetic or conventional even before break in.
Old 07-07-2008, 11:45 AM
  #7  
todd92
Registered User
 
todd92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 216
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
As always TONS of misinformation.

There is no reason to wait to use synthetic. ALL German cars now come with synthetic as the initial factory fill.

Your dealer service writer is an idiot. He just wants you back every 3750 miles to try to sell service. That is HIS only concern.

If you are using synthetic, changing it every 3750 miles is a total waste of time and money. The primary advantage of synthetic oil is extended service intervals. 7500 miles is still OK for the warranty and is no problem for synthetic oil. Many people go to once a year after the warranty is up.
Old 07-07-2008, 12:45 PM
  #8  
GNLuver
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
 
GNLuver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Waldorf, MD
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Magnusson Moss Act

I am not an attorney, nor do I play one on TV. That being said.....

According to the Magnusson Moss Act, manufacturers cannot void a warranty for using another brand of oil or filter, as long as it meets API specifications, without giving you the oil and filter they require free of charge.

This is of course paraphrased....but you get idea......

BTW....Amsoil 0w30 Signature in all of my vehicles except my Buick which gets Amsoil 20w50, with an Amsoil EaO Filter....no issues with once a year changes.

Flame suit on and ready!
Old 07-07-2008, 01:52 PM
  #9  
gurneyeagle
Registered User
 
gurneyeagle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Houston
Posts: 394
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by todd92
As always TONS of misinformation.

There is no reason to wait to use synthetic. ALL German cars now come with synthetic as the initial factory fill.

Your dealer service writer is an idiot. He just wants you back every 3750 miles to try to sell service. That is HIS only concern.

If you are using synthetic, changing it every 3750 miles is a total waste of time and money. The primary advantage of synthetic oil is extended service intervals. 7500 miles is still OK for the warranty and is no problem for synthetic oil. Many people go to once a year after the warranty is up.
To all so far:

THANKS! I've never had a car that I didn't run Mobil1 after the first oil change until I read all the info about not doing it with a G.

I'm at 10.5K and ready for my third oil change and would much prefer going to Mobil 1.

Being new to Nissan's (always been an Acura/Honda guy), I wasn't going to question the "sage's" on the Board, even though what they were saying didn't make a whole lot of sense.
Old 07-07-2008, 10:44 PM
  #10  
jadams
Registered User
 
jadams's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Bakersfield, CA
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I plan on switching to Mobile 1 on my next change (#3). Will then change every 7500 miles as per manual.
Old 07-08-2008, 12:00 AM
  #11  
DetroitG37Joe
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
 
DetroitG37Joe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Metro Detroit, MI [Sterling Hts.]
Posts: 2,335
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Esca - the way I see it, using synthetic oil too early at best will be a-ok and at worse you may end up with a bit of oil consumption. Many Nissan/Infiniti engineers and/or techs (and this is hearsay) have been allegedly quoted saying that VQ engines should probably be broken in for 10-20k miles with conventional to properly seal the engine and get it "ready" for synthetic.

Now this means one can switch to synthetic early and possibly:

a.) you may burn an extra cup or so per 1k miles and over time and the consumption may decrease back to normal
b.) you may burn an extra cup or so per 1k miles and over time the extra consumption may stay consistent due to using syn early
c.) maybe there IS NO extra consumption from switchin to synthetic early!?!?

You get my drift?

Bottom line in my eyes is, better safe than sorry. The potential adverse effects of possible oil consumption from an early switch to syn seem more negating than the minimal positive effects of a successful, consumption-free early switch. Bear in mind a permanent switch to syn whether at 3k, 10k or even 20k usually yields the same overall benefits to your motor in the long haul. You make the switch in the adolescence of your G and you're fine. So I would rather avoid the possibilities of A and B and just wait for a longer break in.
Old 07-08-2008, 01:14 AM
  #12  
PROFLYER
Registered User
 
PROFLYER's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
This debate always cracks me up. No one really has any proof so I've seen thus far in this thread.

Here is what I can PROVE (see end of post)

The only way to truly know the condition of your oil currently is to have it tested-send it in. Most oil filters (fram etc.) have a bypass valve, once the filter media quits filtering efficiently the bypass opens and you have unfiltered oil running through your engine until you change the filter again. Bottom line, filter changes are the most important component. Even dino oil can go 10,000 miles (shown with analysis) before it breaks down. Think of it like this: You have a perfectly flat table and a perfectly flat plate. You put marbles on the table and place the plate under pressure on top of the marbles and move it around. Dino oil, the marbles are all different sizes. Synthetic, they're all the exact same size. It's contact area to reduce friction is greater, simple physics. There is no possible way oil which lubricates BETTER could cause a failure (assuming you run the proper weight).

Anyway, a friend of mine owns a trailer company (horse trailers, racecar trailer etc.) and delivers them all over. He puts 100k a YEAR on his fleet of diesel pickups (duramax, powerstrokes, cummins) and averages 25k between oil changes (runs synthetic amsoil). He was paranoid when he made the switch and analyzed the oil every 5k, he has since quit. He does it at 10k and 20k then changes it at 25k. Even at 25k his oil still has an average of 20% life left. He changes the filters in the middle around 12k. He's NEVER had an oil related engine failure.

These cars are engineered to very tight tolerances, the lubricated parts can use as much friction free play as possible, run synthetic, go 10k between changes if you're paranoid or want to believe the "cheap insurance" gimmick but if you simply send it in for a quick analysis (it's like 6 bucks I think with the results emailed, takes a week usually) you'll see that the only thing you need to change is the filter. I wouldn't be surprised if these motors (should run really clean) could get 30k out of a batch of synthetic Amsoil.

http://www.amsoil.com/frequent.aspx

Check the link, read up, and quit wasting money! Instead put the 60 bucks every 3000 miles into the "mod" fund...

/flame suit on\
Old 10-29-2008, 12:24 AM
  #13  
DetroitG37Joe
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
 
DetroitG37Joe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Metro Detroit, MI [Sterling Hts.]
Posts: 2,335
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Using synthetic-oil in engine break-ins
By Road & Track, Technical Correspondence Column, July 2000 issue


Many readers have questioned us on engine break-in procedures when using synthetic oil. Conventional wisdom has it that a new or freshly rebuilt engine should be broken in using mineral oil, then, once enough mileage has accumulated to ensure rings and cylinder walls have lapped themselves into harmony, synthetic oil can be used.

Readers have correctly pointed out that several major brands come from the factory with synthetic oil, among these being Corvette, Mercedes-Benz and Viper. How can these engines break-in if run on synthetic oil from day one, they ask?

To find out, we spoke with Mobil and Redline Oil companies for their take on the synthetic break-in question. Mobil's response was that engines break-in just fine on synthetics, and that any wear point in the engine significant enough to be an interference, and thus susceptible to rapid wear, would be a wear point no matter what lubricant is used.

Redline, on the other hand, has found it best to recommend a mineral oil break-in. Occasionally an engine will glaze its cylinder walls when initially run on Redline, they say, so by using a mineral oil for 2000 miles, verifying there is no oil consumption and then switching to the synthetic, glazing is eliminated.

Cylinder-wall glazing is not a deposit left on the cylinder wall, but rather a displacement of cylinder-wall metal. This happens when the high spots of the cylinder wall crosshatch are not cut or worn off by the piston rings, but rather rolled over into the valleys or grooves of the crosshatch. This leaves a surface that oil adheres to poorly, against which the rings cannot seal well. Compression is lost and oil consumed, and the only cure is to tear down the engine to physically restore the cylinder-wall finish by honing.

Why is glazing not a problem for the major manufacturer? Because they have complete, accurate control over their cylinder-wall finish and ring type. Redline deals with a huge variety of engines and manufacturers, both OEM and from the aftermarket. Cylinder-wall finish and ring type thus vary greatly, and glazing can therefore occur, albeit rarely.

While we were at it, we queried about synthetic oil-change intervals. Mobil says to use the maximum change interval specified by the engine manufacturer, regardless of oil type. Redline said that once past an OEM warranty, anywhere from 10,000 to 18,000 miles, or one year, whichever comes first, is appropriate depending on conditions (dust, short trips). They also recommend changing just the oil filter at 6000 to 7000 miles as a precaution against overloading the filter. Redline further noted a caution when using synthetics with leaded fuels, as synthetics do not hold lead in suspension as well as mineral oil. Aviation is one area where leaded fuel is still widespread, and avgas is often used by off-road and racing enthusiasts, so a relatively short oil change interval may thus be indicated.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Synthetic Break-in
By Tom Wilson
Road & Track, Technical Correspondence Column, November 2001 issue


Exxon/Mobil's official policy is that their synthetic oil may be used at any mileage, including factory fill, unless otherwise stated by the vehicle manufacturer. Mobil pointed out, as you did, that all Corvettes, Vipers, Porsches and Aston Martins are factory filled with Mobil 1 synthetic. We can only conclude that improvements in cylinder-wall finish and ring design or materials makes this possible.

It is also likely that vehicle manufacturers not using synthetics as the factory fill are also not optimizing their cylinder and ring packages for the slippery sythetics, in which case approximately 1000 miles on mineral oil should prove ample break-in time. In fact, in modern engines a very high percentage of ring break-in takes place very quickly, probably in the first 10 to 20 minutes of engine running. Certainly, some final lapping of the rings and cylinders takes place over several hundred miles after initial break-in.

Just to add some confusion, Porsche dynos all of its engines before installing them in the chassis. We were unable to determine what oil is used for the dyno session, but would presume it's Mobil 1.
Old 10-29-2008, 01:41 AM
  #14  
Lastchance
Registered User
 
Lastchance's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: San Bernarino, CA
Posts: 426
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
My Infinity dealership puts Mobil1 full synthetic in my car.
Old 10-29-2008, 10:36 AM
  #15  
KahnQuistador
Registered User
 
KahnQuistador's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by G37MA
Hi Guys,
Just called in to make an appointment with the dealer for my assortment of small problems. Over the phone the service guy Ted @ Herb Chambers Boston said that Infniti doesn't recommend synthetic oil and will not cover damage due from it. He also says that mobil 1 oil filters are no good and to only use Infiniti's. Is this a guy who doesn't know what hes talking about or is there some merit to this? Thanks
You are dealing with a bonehead.

Run what ever oil you want. Just keep it fresh and change the filter.

I personally use full synthetic Valvoline and filters. Never had an oil related problem with any of my cars and there have been many over the years.


Quick Reply: Synthetic Oil



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:56 AM.