YIKES! car trouble!
#1
YIKES! car trouble!
i ran my car really hard at the tracks this saturday. afterwards, i drove 50 miles back home.. havent driven the car until this afternoon. all was well until 10 minutes into the drive when i stopped to make a left turn. it was my turn to go, i released the clutch and gave the car gas as i normally would and the car stalled! i felt like an idiot. i started the car up again, attempted to drive, and it stalled again! this time i definitely felt something wrong. i realized that i needed to rev up higher for the car to begin moving. the typical amount of force i would press on the accelerator to take off was not enough.
i finally got the car to move, but it drove VERY jerky, would not accelerate as it should and the exhaust would make 'putt putt' types of sounds. kind of like it was at the brink of stalling, then it would get louder in an attempt to compensate for that. i immediately parked the car and set it in neutral. each time i pressed the accelerator and reved up to about 3.5k, the car would shake (as in the feeling when you floor a big block american car and the torque moves it left to right) and the exhaust would continue to choke making putt putt sounds a 1914 car would make on startup. the rev arrow would move irregularly. it also felt like the exhaust (near the midway of the car) was snapping in two, vibrations came from underneath the seat.
i turned the car off, let it sit for a minute and started it back up again and everything was perfect! i drove it all day without a single hint of trouble or damage. my guess is that this may have had something to do with the ECU since there really was no physical damage on the car. i planned on resetting the battery, but never went through with it for the fear of losing the music on my music box and resetting other features. wtf mates? why did this happen?
i finally got the car to move, but it drove VERY jerky, would not accelerate as it should and the exhaust would make 'putt putt' types of sounds. kind of like it was at the brink of stalling, then it would get louder in an attempt to compensate for that. i immediately parked the car and set it in neutral. each time i pressed the accelerator and reved up to about 3.5k, the car would shake (as in the feeling when you floor a big block american car and the torque moves it left to right) and the exhaust would continue to choke making putt putt sounds a 1914 car would make on startup. the rev arrow would move irregularly. it also felt like the exhaust (near the midway of the car) was snapping in two, vibrations came from underneath the seat.
i turned the car off, let it sit for a minute and started it back up again and everything was perfect! i drove it all day without a single hint of trouble or damage. my guess is that this may have had something to do with the ECU since there really was no physical damage on the car. i planned on resetting the battery, but never went through with it for the fear of losing the music on my music box and resetting other features. wtf mates? why did this happen?
#4
do not reset the ecu by disconneting the battery due to the fact that the Idle would need to be relearned and also the accelerator pedal. Just bring the vehicle to the dealership and have them check for any codes stored in the ecm. Sounds like you were having a big misfire.
#5
I had a similar type of thing happen to me. The car would not let me rev higher then I think 3.5K. It was like the thing was limiting the RPM for some odd reason. When I pulled over and turned it off and on again I had the same problem. When I turned it off, exited the vehicle, entered it, fired it up. It worked fine.
#6
do not reset the ecu by disconneting the battery due to the fact that the Idle would need to be relearned and also the accelerator pedal. Just bring the vehicle to the dealership and have them check for any codes stored in the ecm. Sounds like you were having a big misfire.
our car does that ? please explain.
#7
I believe if the car is revved in neutral it will limit revs to like 3500. you must put it in gear and have clutch engaged. Don't quote me on this but I believe this was the problem your car could of thought you were high revving the motor and put it in safety mode.
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#8
Same thing happened to me on Saturday night... I reversed out of a driveway, put it in first and then stalled trying to accelerate... Started it up and same thing, put, put, put around 3K rpms... Shut it off for about 10 seconds and it was back to normal once i started it up... Weird weird weird... It has to be ECU related... I think the solution to the prob is no stalling = A-OK! Weird because no one else has had this issue until this past week or so... https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction/180258-electrical-relay-on-vvtl-shot.html
Last edited by Gamedog; 04-29-2008 at 02:54 PM.
#9
You can do the "tech mode" thing. I have been trying to find the thread that had the steps to get into it but I cannot find it. I thought I subscribed to it. Well the mode will show you the errors that have happened on your system so you might want to check that. Please, someone post the link to the thread in here. I thought it was stickied but cannot find it.
#11
By "tech mode" do you mean the diagnostic test?
https://www.myg37.com/forums/showpos...18&postcount=9
Then you can (this took me just 1 try):
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following two procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds:
1. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 seconds.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
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https://www.myg37.com/forums/showpos...18&postcount=9
Then you can (this took me just 1 try):
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following two procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds:
1. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 seconds.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
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Last edited by ucla bruin; 04-29-2008 at 05:34 PM.
#13
it helps to play a song and leave your console screen on 'status' so that it shows the song timer (and seconds). that way you can easily time your ecu reset. i havent got it right yet but i think thats because i messed up the 5 times in 5 seconds step. are you supposed to press the gas once every second for 5 seconds or just do it quickly as long as its under 5?
also, is being rev limited at 3.5 a safety feature?
also, is being rev limited at 3.5 a safety feature?
#14
I'm sure I've revved over 3.5k in N before.....
Don't do it too quickly for the 5 times in 5 secs. Space it out so it's approximately 1 flooring per second I guess.
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Don't do it too quickly for the 5 times in 5 secs. Space it out so it's approximately 1 flooring per second I guess.
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#15
Well if your IACV is set at 650 rpm and then you disconnect the battery, the ecm will lose its memory for the idle. anytime the ecm is disconnected or the battery is drained, then the Idle will loose its reference and could idle hunt.