Infinite G37S

Sounds like the VDC kicking in, turn that off and see what it does. My VDC turns on while on the freeway accelerating hard over big bumps and pulls power on me.

RYs06MT

iTrader: (4)

finally more people have had this problem!

Heat

iTrader: (1)

All autos will do this. Put it into sport mode and it wont do it. Mine is stock and my ECU is good as I did a hard break in. You also have to learn how to drive it because it has a different type of fuel intake than other cars. It only puts the correct of fuel needed into the injectors rather than the average way of putting as much full as it can into the injectors. Therefore it has to configure the equation. So put your car in Sport mode and step on it!

SkyzDaL1m1T

bro the thread is on a different situation where as automatic cars when u gun it it takes a second or two delay to figure out which gear to drive in and at what rpm...other then that yeah while i ve been on the freeway and went over a bump the vdc light comes on for a sec...big problem if you do this with wet asphalt

RYs06MT

iTrader: (4)

^^ I was refering to gigi's post, who also has a 6mt, but thanks "bro".

likwidfuzion

I don't think it matters if you have a 5AT or 6MT. The ECU adapts to your driving style with either transmission.

I've reset my ECU about two or three times since I've had my G and each time I reset it, I notice better throttle response.

leeladisky

I have a 5AT and using paddle shifting, experienced this for the first time yesterday. I downshifted to 1st coming off the fwy, and was at about 10 mph, stepped on the gas and nothing.... so when I got nothing, I hit the accelerator harder, and as I almost got rear-ended by my boss, I surged forward and almost slammed into the car in front of me... I've already been reflashed for the TBS related to surges, so this is very odd.

Lee

Ahujadaddy

^^had the same happen to me in traffic before... drop it down to 2nd to move out a slow lane into a fast lane and hit the gas.... nothing.... completly dead for 2 seconds. almost got rear ended twice.

gotta be slightly on the gas when shiftin into 2nd, if just rolling with foot off accelerator and u down shft, then hit gas it LAAAAGSSSS beyond belief. THought it was just me or my imagination.

EDIT: Yes, 5AT here

bboysteele

You all have AT right? I wonder if the ECU reflash will fix this issue. I wonder if there has been any AT G37 done with the technosquare reflash that can comment on if that helped with this problem?

aero

Do you guys have the same transmission as the 06-07 G35 coupes? I remember hearing they were the same. If so, it's probably just the nature of the beast, the 5AT is pretty craptacular. 0-7 MPH, 38-45 MPH, and 55-65 MPH all seem to be sweet spots, if you gun it you should get up and go. Outside of those ranges though, the car just falls on its a$$, takes 3 years to downshift. Are you guys experiencing the delays outside of those ^^^ ranges, say at 20 MPH, or 30 MPH? If so, bad news is that it's probably just normal behavior of the transmission. Hell, I've got a stage 4 supercharger and if I gun it from a 20 MPH roll I'm waiting, waiting, 300 whp, waiting, 400 whp, finally moving!

There is [un]intelligent software that tries to adapt shifts to your driving style, but it's not in the ECU, it's in the transmission control unit, which we can't reset or reflash. Dealer has to do it.

xdram

What if you unplug the battery overnight? that should do it unless it uses eprom type chips.

Lastchance

Go to Technosquare for an ECU reflash. Release the factory choke hold on your car

aero

That may work actually, I think my statement above was incorrect. I think we can reset the TCU (at the same time as the ECU by unplugging the battery overnight), but we (or vendors) can't reflash it, only the dealer can.

These transmissions are so f'ed though, I swear I remember G35 owners having the exact same problem, maybe even M35/45 owners. I think there was a theory about corrupted transmission software that required a reflash, there's a TSB out for G35s with defective valve bodies (I'm an expert on that one, it causes a God awful lockup condition that shakes the whole car at 40 MPH).

Maybe the easiest thing to try is an ECU reset overnight, then drive it like you stole it for a few days.