For those of you who already have done a SYNTHETIC oil change....
04-24-2008, 01:15 PM
#1
For those of you who already have done a SYNTHETIC oil change....
For G37 drivers with the vq37 only...My questions are....
1.) what kind of synthetic/weight did you go with?
2.) does your car idle rougher or smoother (many mobil 1 5w-30 users with g35s complained of rougher idling due to iron content)?
3.) see any mileage increase on the car's computer, all else equal?
4.) revving smoother? any increase in throttle response/sensitivity?
5.) do cold starts feel to either warm quicker or smoother?
THANKS!!!!
1.) what kind of synthetic/weight did you go with?
2.) does your car idle rougher or smoother (many mobil 1 5w-30 users with g35s complained of rougher idling due to iron content)?
3.) see any mileage increase on the car's computer, all else equal?
4.) revving smoother? any increase in throttle response/sensitivity?
5.) do cold starts feel to either warm quicker or smoother?
THANKS!!!!
I would not trust anything German! Except Beer.
04-27-2008, 10:18 PM
#5
For G37 drivers with the vq37 only...My questions are....
1.) what kind of synthetic/weight did you go with?
2.) does your car idle rougher or smoother (many mobil 1 5w-30 users with g35s complained of rougher idling due to iron content)?
3.) see any mileage increase on the car's computer, all else equal?
4.) revving smoother? any increase in throttle response/sensitivity?
5.) do cold starts feel to either warm quicker or smoother?
THANKS!!!!
1.) what kind of synthetic/weight did you go with?
2.) does your car idle rougher or smoother (many mobil 1 5w-30 users with g35s complained of rougher idling due to iron content)?
3.) see any mileage increase on the car's computer, all else equal?
4.) revving smoother? any increase in throttle response/sensitivity?
5.) do cold starts feel to either warm quicker or smoother?
THANKS!!!!
2) No change
3) No change
4) Hmmm.. havent really thought about it.
5) Smoother cold starts, but not by much
Ultimately, I don't think you will really "notice" the benefits. The benefits are more internal.
Last edited by Blackjack; 05-10-2008 at 12:06 AM.
04-28-2008, 06:35 AM
#6
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Mobil 1 is fully synthetic. Mobil 1 0W-40 meets all of the German long life specs. It does not have a high iron content, in fact no oil has any iron content.
This comment is from someone who ran an oil analysis after using Mobil 1 5W-30 in a 350Z and found high iron content in the used oil. This had nothing to do with the oil.
That being said, the German Castrol 0W-30 is an excellent oil, but it isn't any better than Mobil 1 0W-40. As for Group IV vs Group III, if the oil meets all of the performance criteria, it really doesn't matter where it comes from.
This comment is from someone who ran an oil analysis after using Mobil 1 5W-30 in a 350Z and found high iron content in the used oil. This had nothing to do with the oil.
That being said, the German Castrol 0W-30 is an excellent oil, but it isn't any better than Mobil 1 0W-40. As for Group IV vs Group III, if the oil meets all of the performance criteria, it really doesn't matter where it comes from.
04-28-2008, 12:35 PM
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I just changed my oil yesterday. I ended up tiring the Royal Purple 5w-30. I have only put 5 miles on the car sense then. I did notice the idle is a little smoother, but that could be the difference between used conventional oil (3500 mile) and the fresh Synthetic oil (Royal Purple is not a full Sybnthetic oil). I will keep track of mileage and performance and let you guys know.
Putting the oil in the car I noticed that the Royal Purple oil seems to be a thinner viscosity than other oils I have used in the passed and it is actually PURPLE tint in color.
I used a K&N oil filter (Model# HP-1008).
The cover was time consuming to remove just because of the number of fasteners holding it in place. (16x) 10mm hex head screws and (3x) little snap clip things. I removed all the screws first and used the snaps to hold the panel in place during removal and installation. After you get the cover off the rest was a breeze. The Oil filter is easy to get to, but there is a rubber hose of some kind near the oil filter so be careful not to damage the line. I was able to remove the filter just with hand pressure due to the location you can get a good grip on the filter. The drain plug is a 14mm hex.
Putting the oil in the car I noticed that the Royal Purple oil seems to be a thinner viscosity than other oils I have used in the passed and it is actually PURPLE tint in color.
I used a K&N oil filter (Model# HP-1008).
The cover was time consuming to remove just because of the number of fasteners holding it in place. (16x) 10mm hex head screws and (3x) little snap clip things. I removed all the screws first and used the snaps to hold the panel in place during removal and installation. After you get the cover off the rest was a breeze. The Oil filter is easy to get to, but there is a rubber hose of some kind near the oil filter so be careful not to damage the line. I was able to remove the filter just with hand pressure due to the location you can get a good grip on the filter. The drain plug is a 14mm hex.
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04-29-2008, 12:58 AM
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What he meant is that the iron content comes from the engine itself in the wear and tear process, NOT that M1 5-30W oil has iron in it as part of the ingredients. Mobil M1 0-40W is a better oil in term of reducing the iron content after prolong use.
04-29-2008, 01:33 AM
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realistically, the difference between mobil1 5w-30, mobil1 0w-40, or german castrol 0w-30 is small and over the life of your car none of these oils will really make or break your engine. personally from what i have seen i feel that the german castrol is the best value out their for a motor oil of its quality. however it is difficult for some people to find this oil (only sold at autozone, and its the german version thats better, not the US version.) so to each their own, proper oil maintenance will make more of a difference then what kind of oil you put in it. but if you sleep better at night knowing your baby is protected as best as possible (as i do haha), then you wont go wrong with any of these motor oils. i will be getting my g37 in 18 days and i plan on waiting till the motor has around 5000 miles before i switch it over to synthetic.
and yes i did word the iron statement wrong but fixed it
and yes i did word the iron statement wrong but fixed it
Last edited by akfox37; 04-29-2008 at 01:35 AM.
04-29-2008, 02:50 AM
#10
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Mobil-1 5W-30 and can't tell no difference. I don't think any one should be able to tell the difference on these almost new cars, if anything its all in your head 
04-29-2008, 06:35 AM
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05-01-2008, 02:12 AM
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I have used Castrol fully synthetic in all my cars. Love it. My brother was a jet engine mechanic for the Navy and then he became an oil analyst and now he's in charge of maintenance and upkeep of a fighter squadron of Superhornets. Definately go with synthetic as it will get all in the engine components more and in turn increase efficiency and engine life. If anybody wants more specifics I will ask him. Hope this helps.
05-02-2008, 05:32 PM
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german castrol is a FULLY synthetic oil whereas Mobil 1 is marketed as a fully synthetic but its actually not. mobil 1 shows lots of iron content (not good!). for the same price you can get a much higher quality oil
the difference between german oil and american oil is that very few american oil companies make actual fully synthetic oils. mobil has actually reformulated their synthetic oils to contain "group III" MINERAL base oils. why pay a synthetic price for something not truly synthetic. mobil is just cutting costs to try to save a penny because most people wont question whether or not its fully synthetic.
the difference between german oil and american oil is that very few american oil companies make actual fully synthetic oils. mobil has actually reformulated their synthetic oils to contain "group III" MINERAL base oils. why pay a synthetic price for something not truly synthetic. mobil is just cutting costs to try to save a penny because most people wont question whether or not its fully synthetic.
I could type up why some spectral analyses found G3 content in M1 oils, but the same analyses show GC to be a G3 oil, and it is known to be a G4 PAO oil. Instead, I suggest everyone read this post on driver from this thread which claimed the same thing before propigating these "claims" as "facts" any further.
05-09-2008, 11:21 PM
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Motul 8100 5/40....switched at 2700 miles.
No noticable change at all.....but really guys....you are not going to notice a difference when you switch. The benifits of synthetic, are extended oil change intervals, and less engine wear....over 10's of 1000's of miles.
No noticable change at all.....but really guys....you are not going to notice a difference when you switch. The benifits of synthetic, are extended oil change intervals, and less engine wear....over 10's of 1000's of miles.
05-09-2008, 11:56 PM
#15
Motul 8100 5/40....switched at 2700 miles.
No noticable change at all.....but really guys....you are not going to notice a difference when you switch. The benifits of synthetic, are extended oil change intervals, and less engine wear....over 10's of 1000's of miles.
No noticable change at all.....but really guys....you are not going to notice a difference when you switch. The benifits of synthetic, are extended oil change intervals, and less engine wear....over 10's of 1000's of miles.