Rochester

iTrader: (9)

For anyone who's had a remote tune, what are the typical requests from your tuner for log files?

As I understand the model, after applying the first, base tune, the tuner will request a number of data log files for particular conditions. For example, run your car WOT from 40 mph to 70 mph in 3rd gear. Or from a rolling 2nd gear, run through the gears to fourth, shifting at 6500 rpm. That kind of thing. I'm planning on a remote tune this Spring 2021, and I'm trying to get a handle on what to expect. Based on the conditions of the log file requests, I can plan on safe locations. Plus, I'm still researching stuff.

So what has your tuner asked for?

juster

I'm working with Seb at Specialty Z and ecu tek. First base tune opened up a bunch of pids and added racerom features that stock tune doesn't have. New pids are ignition correction/knock det, more fueling and vvt details. The data he needs is already set up in the ROM's that he sends. You might want to set up auto logging with vehicle MPH pid. I set it to start and stop at 5mph. Next will be knock detection. I think this is the process where its determined if detected knock is actually knock or something else being picked up. I was having issues with knock and one bank running leaner than the other. I reinstalled my test pipes (small gasket leak going on) and also had a faulty re-manufactured throttle body which was causing the lean bank issue. This fixed that issue so then we added some octane booster to see if the remaining knock was eliminated which it was.

The pulls I did were as slow as I could get in third all the way to 7500rpm. I tired a few 4th gear pulls but you end up going rly fast by the end of those. Make sure you have your radar detector.

I have to say after the tune is night and day. It really opens up low end, more responsive throttle, eliminates any residual hesitation from test pipes/HFC rear O2 spacer bandaid. The car feels amazing over stock. The tune was worth evey single penny. I can't believe they let them go from the factory so tame but I guess its prob a safety thing.

Want to add if you have your ecutek cable you can request a stock ROM from ecutek. This is the base factory rom and doesn't include any other data than NDS3 or torque or something like that. You can take logs tho and use it to make sure you are up to spec before you tune. Up to spec is similarish numbers/ranges between both banks.

This is my experience. Awesome

Lego_Maniac

iTrader: (3)

What gear and rpm do you have to do the pulls from?

on my Legacy GT it is was 2k- redline in 3rd. Even pulling off to the side to get a break and some runway....traffic comes up on you fast lol

jdog78

From 5+ years experience with this mod, I would suggest you do multiple 2nd and 3rd pulls and have fun while doing it .! If you are doing remote tune (may take several times per pull to get it right). Doing it remotely will take much longer then strapping to a dyno. But in the end, the results should be similar (dyno is always better). Good luck!

BULL

Very important question as this will be recorded data.

What you are sending the tuner will be a copy of the parameters you subject the car to, so if you only send a tuner pulls then that is what the tuner will tune. Some tuners will ask that you submit partial driving and cruising logs however that solely depends on the tuner.

Get some Idling, partial throttle, cruising logs along with the pulls. This will give the tuner data to adjust non WOT parameters.
As far as WOT, you'll want to start down low and all the way to redline. As far as gears go, anything after 3rd will be fine. In the Dyno 4th-5th are preffered for 1:1 ratios however in the street are not as important since you're not chasing power numbers just happy numbers.

Either way these are questions you can ask the tuner and they will relay from there.

jpowersjr2

iTrader: (1)

I sent Nick (SOHO Motorsprots) the following logs when he tuned mine:
-Cold Start Idle
-Normal driving under 3k RPMs.
-1st gear to 2nd WOT
-2nd gear WOT
-2nd gear to 3rd WOT

I never had to go to a ridiculous speed for the logs.

I should clarify it was never specified I had to go that fast I just chose to.

2.2Lude

iTrader: (1)

Different platform but I did three 20mins logs of just normal daily driving, including morning traffic during my commute to work(on and off throttle, part throttle). For those I was instructed to get the logs at different days/ times of day to account for some weather variations. Four 3rd or 4th gear WOT pulls, the tricky part here was finding perfectly flat well paved roads. Any "skipping" over rough pavement would introduce random blips and dips in the log. We also did a few cold start and hot start logs to get injector latency and dead times down as well. My tuner, and I imagine any reputable tuner, allowed me to send him logs anytime I felt like something was off, like extreme weather condition or if I added/changed anything like an exhaust or header to see if he recommend making any changes to the map. I even sent him a log of a track session to ensure everything looked good.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Wow. That's a lot more than I was imagining. 20 minutes of random driving? Really?

rotarymike

iTrader: (4)

I hadn't remembered this, but Bull and JDog are right. We did road tunes with 40-70 pulls in 4th (1:1) and would data log both directions (to account for incline). On a highway with a 70MPH speed limit; rolling starting at 40 is relatively easy to do except at rush hour.
This is all Megasquirt related, but:

First tune was to get the car idling well while cold (and starting up well).
Second tune was to idle at the appropriate RPM well.
Third tune was to get the car to redline in neutral.
*then* we started road tunes. In the 'Squirt, it was easier to live tune vs. datalog and "fit the curve" remote tune, but both the ECU and the software was pretty rudimentary. That worked until you needed to drive to tune, and then we switched to data recording. Or had a guy in the passenger seat that you trusted LOL.

BULL

One of the things to keep in mind Roch is that there is plenty of tuned VQ info out there. Most tuners have specific maps that align with your bolt-ons. Any legitable tuner will keep their best logs handy, copy them and adjust from there this way any unmet parameters can be edited if they don't aling properly. So you first or second adjustment will yield great results leaving the finicky like fuel trims, WOT at low rpm, VVEL engagement ect for specifics. Make sure you note your elevation as this will come into play since they will need to align with your MAP readings.

Also Juster provided good info, download a base ROM so you can see for yourself you baselines at the moment then compare them once tuned. With ECUTEK you'll be able to pinpoint airfuel issues faster since it will provide much faster rates than Torque/OBD

backman_66

My tuner said that the higher gear you can do a pull in, the better, because it gives more data points since you're going through the RPMs more slowly. So he has always suggested 4th gear (if possible!) but 3rd gear works too going from about 2k rpm until the fuel cutoff.

So for my tune, initially he just wanted a cold start to idle, and then doing a 3rd/4th gear pull and revising it about 3-4x to get the MAF calibration honed in with bigger intakes. After that, just a crapload of daily driving logs, making sure to vary your accelerator position and rpms to collect as many data points as possible. There are also two separate tables for cold fueling (coolant under 70 degrees C I think?) and warm fueling, so those need to be populated and refined.

This is just some of my basic understanding but I'm not the expert. I have done remote tuning 3x in my life though, twice for my 225whp RSX-S with Hondata and then the G with Ecutek.

jpowersjr2

iTrader: (1)

5th is 1:1 in the 6MT FYI, but I'm sure you knew that.

2.2Lude

iTrader: (1)

Yup, similar to Backman_66's experience with his RSX-S. Mine was on my TSX first eTuned on Ktuner, then Dyno tuned on Ktuner, and finally eTuned on Hondata Flashpro.

BULL

Glad to see I'm not the only Honda guy here. I feel like the Honda experience trained me well enough to deal with these cars from the modding standpoint

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Data Logging is going to be a royal PITA with that big cable right there on my left leg.

Also, the OBD connector is just an interference fit, no clip or anything. Feels like something that can easily be dislodged.

Oh well. It is what it is, and I'll just have to be careful.