Review Z1 rear differential and subframe bushings
#61
Yeah as much as I want to see how much each part changes the car, once I get started on this project, I'm not stopping lol. Most parts I'm replacing are interconnected in some way so I should save a lot of time by doing it in "one sitting". FYI I'm doing coilovers, FUCA, rear camber arms, toe bolt, subframe collars, sway bars & endlinks. Diff bushing appears fine so the Whitelines will stay on the shelf for now.
#62
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No engine cradle brace? Might as well throw that in with the kitchen sink.
Inexpensive, OEM and easy install.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...g-project.html
Inexpensive, OEM and easy install.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...g-project.html
Last edited by Rochester; 01-03-2019 at 11:17 PM.
#63
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No engine cradle brace? Might as well throw that in with the kitchen sink.
Inexpensive, OEM and easy install.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...g-project.html
Inexpensive, OEM and easy install.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...g-project.html
Looking through that thread again the 370z has additional bracing from the factory. That rear crossmember that goes over the exhaust and I believe those 2 dampeners, 1 on each side. Has anyone done those? Not sure if they would fit or be worth it.
#64
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I was going to do the Cusco rear lateral brace (288 492 R) but I'm pretty sure it will not fit with my MD catback. The GTSpec version of it says it only fits OEM exhaust so not going to bother with that.
Another brace I could do is the GTSpec rear lower tie brace, GTS-SUS-1087. https://www.nissanraceshop.com/produ...350z-g35-g37/# .
This was confirmed in another thread (https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...is-braces.html) to work with the SPC toe bolt which is what I will be installing so that's good to know.
There's also the GTSpec front chassis brace 2 point, GTS-SUS-1347. https://www.nissanraceshop.com/produ...t-g35-g37-08/# . However looking at the picture this may not work in conjunction with the OEM front engine cradle brace. I think I see what GTSpec has designed. The 3 holes/bolts you would use for the OEM engine cradle brace would be 1 for the front chassis brace, 1 for the GTSpec version of the cradle brace (GTS-SUS-1332), and 1 for their 4 point ladder brace (GTS-SUS-1348).
So the question is, could the OEM engine cradle brace be used in conjunction with GTS-SUS-137? Maybe a longer bolt is required? If it can be then it might work as well for GTS-SUS-1348, even though I wasn't planning on doing that 4 point brace.
Another brace I could do is the GTSpec rear lower tie brace, GTS-SUS-1087. https://www.nissanraceshop.com/produ...350z-g35-g37/# .
This was confirmed in another thread (https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...is-braces.html) to work with the SPC toe bolt which is what I will be installing so that's good to know.
There's also the GTSpec front chassis brace 2 point, GTS-SUS-1347. https://www.nissanraceshop.com/produ...t-g35-g37-08/# . However looking at the picture this may not work in conjunction with the OEM front engine cradle brace. I think I see what GTSpec has designed. The 3 holes/bolts you would use for the OEM engine cradle brace would be 1 for the front chassis brace, 1 for the GTSpec version of the cradle brace (GTS-SUS-1332), and 1 for their 4 point ladder brace (GTS-SUS-1348).
So the question is, could the OEM engine cradle brace be used in conjunction with GTS-SUS-137? Maybe a longer bolt is required? If it can be then it might work as well for GTS-SUS-1348, even though I wasn't planning on doing that 4 point brace.
Last edited by jpowersjr2; 01-04-2019 at 12:38 AM.
#65
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Alright did some more digging.
OEM engine cradle brace will use these with the red arrows:
Picture from Modme for reference:
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g2...assisbrace.jpg
So theoretically, if you can use a longer bolt then there should be no issue running the OEM cradle brace, GTS-SUS-1347 front chassis brace 2 point, and GTS-SUS-1348 4 point ladder brace. The 4 point won't need a longer bolt.
If I decide to do these, they are simple enough to where I wouldn't mind making it another project down the road. Then I could do a before and after comparison with the front 3 sets of braces added. Who knows, we will see.
OEM engine cradle brace will use these with the red arrows:
Picture from Modme for reference:
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g2...assisbrace.jpg
So theoretically, if you can use a longer bolt then there should be no issue running the OEM cradle brace, GTS-SUS-1347 front chassis brace 2 point, and GTS-SUS-1348 4 point ladder brace. The 4 point won't need a longer bolt.
If I decide to do these, they are simple enough to where I wouldn't mind making it another project down the road. Then I could do a before and after comparison with the front 3 sets of braces added. Who knows, we will see.
Last edited by jpowersjr2; 01-04-2019 at 01:06 AM.
#66
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Minus the 2 M10x1.25 nuts, this is the cheapest I have found for the OEM engine cradle braces, $144.22 with estimated shipping:
Or some used ones on eBay for $62.98 shipped (no bolts/nuts) :
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2009-2017-N...syle:rk:2:pf:0
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2009-2017-N...KQ-f:rk:4:pf:0
Decisions, decisions lol.
Another company we failed to mention was Soul Function. They have 9 different braces available for the G, including a couple not offered by GTSpec or Cusco.
https://www.soulfunction.com/collections/g37-1
Or some used ones on eBay for $62.98 shipped (no bolts/nuts) :
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2009-2017-N...syle:rk:2:pf:0
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2009-2017-N...KQ-f:rk:4:pf:0
Decisions, decisions lol.
Another company we failed to mention was Soul Function. They have 9 different braces available for the G, including a couple not offered by GTSpec or Cusco.
https://www.soulfunction.com/collections/g37-1
Last edited by jpowersjr2; 01-04-2019 at 02:04 AM.
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Zack342 (07-31-2024)
#67
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Watching jpowersjr2 research things in real-time is pretty funny.
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jpowersjr2 (01-04-2019)
#68
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Haha, I was wondering when someone was going to say something. I guess that's the IT part of me that likes to research (I'm a network analyst soon to be engineer). A big saying around our company is TRUST BUT VERIFY.
Last edited by jpowersjr2; 01-04-2019 at 05:34 PM.
#71
Registered Member
I froze mine, but I am not sure it made much difference. Getting the old one out is still the most difficult part of the job.
They do look much easier to install. Good to hear about the wheel hop. I thought my car was pretty solid until I was purposely spinning the wheels to get rid of some cupping and noticed the tire stripes were not solid from the wheel hop.
They do look much easier to install. Good to hear about the wheel hop. I thought my car was pretty solid until I was purposely spinning the wheels to get rid of some cupping and noticed the tire stripes were not solid from the wheel hop.
#72
sticky tires and weak shocks on some road surfaces would cause that condition. So it’s probably not your diff bushings, I have the z1 bushing set on 3 of my g’s and they’ve been solid for years combined driving them hard. I regularly check them as i work in a shop! There really the best daily driver/enthusiast bushings out there!
#73
Registered Member
I'm getting ready to install these Z1 bushings, and was wondering to the OP, or anyone who has Z1 diff bushings, do you reuse the top tapered washers for the front 2 bushings?? So far only finding info regarding the whitelines
Thank you
Thank you
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jpowersjr2 (02-23-2019)
#75
Has anyone used the z1 solid rear subframe bushings for a coupe? Replacing my OEM ones as they are starting to leak and looking for some guidance.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/suspen...37-p-7516.html
https://www.z1motorsports.com/suspen...37-p-7516.html