Review 4.08 Ring & Pinion Swap, she's alive!
05-06-2015 | 05:35 AM
#31
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Administrator
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 12,184
Likes: 243
From: Doha, Qatar
That sounds like it should work. There's some great info here as well:
https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...-on-awd-g.html
https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...-on-awd-g.html
08-02-2016 | 05:15 PM
#32
Hey Sam...
I'm planning on 4.083 gears for next Spring, and trying to fit the parts into a budget leading up to that. So I thought I'd purchase the Bearing & Seal kit separately from the Pinion and Ring, to spread out the hit over the coming months.
TheNismoShop is setting the kit for $252 USD shipped, and Z1motorsports will only sell the kit stand-alone for $279 + $14 shipping. Simple math tells me the NismoShop offer is the better deal, by $40.
Thing is, I can't tell if the kits are the same. Do you have an opinion on this, other than your top post? Admittedly, I'm micromanaging this mod, but figure the answer has to be one or the other.
Nissan rear differential seals and bearings kit - 350z G35 370z G37
https://www.z1motorsports.com/transm...36-p-4523.html
I'm planning on 4.083 gears for next Spring, and trying to fit the parts into a budget leading up to that. So I thought I'd purchase the Bearing & Seal kit separately from the Pinion and Ring, to spread out the hit over the coming months.
TheNismoShop is setting the kit for $252 USD shipped, and Z1motorsports will only sell the kit stand-alone for $279 + $14 shipping. Simple math tells me the NismoShop offer is the better deal, by $40.
Thing is, I can't tell if the kits are the same. Do you have an opinion on this, other than your top post? Admittedly, I'm micromanaging this mod, but figure the answer has to be one or the other.
Nissan rear differential seals and bearings kit - 350z G35 370z G37
https://www.z1motorsports.com/transm...36-p-4523.html
08-02-2016 | 06:39 PM
#34
08-03-2016 | 07:12 PM
#35
Read through this thread and want to just clarify something regarding the dealership and warranty with this mod.
Yes it is totally on the dealership to warranty or not. If they choose not to then the fight moves on to corporate infiniti. From there they may or may not warranty. Chances are they wont. I have dealt with this first hand and will tell you how to fix the problem so long as you know you didn't cause the warranty problem.
Pay a lawyer about $100 or so to write a letter to the dealership and corporate infiniti stating that they are requesting proof of reason for denial and in the letter state you are contacting the better business bureau. From there, do contact the better business bureau but about two business days after the lawyer mails out the letter. From there they will contact the dealership and infiniti corporate. Rather than causing a scene they will fix your issue but I can assure you that any warranty at that point will be null and void. I had to do that with a cadillac I used to drive where the motor seized. It initially cost me 5k out of pocket to repair and once I did those steps corporate cadillac actually made the dealer pay me directly for all work done. 100%. So yes this can come back to hit the dealer.
As far as the diff swap goes, unless you pay a shop to do it they simply have to say you meshed gears wrong or improperly caused strain on the drive shaft etc. Would be quite difficult to fight.
All manual vehicles have 4 bolt flanges from what I gather reading and searching junk yards. Autos had 4 bolt on early models of g35's but switched to the same g37 three bolt before the new body style. When the new body came out of the g35, the 5 speed auto came with a 3.69 rear diff. I confirmed this by picking one up recently and counting rotation. These had 3 bolt flanges. I have heard the sport vert came with a 3.9 ratio if it was a manual vehicle but due to it being manual it did not apply to me so I skipped checking them out at junk yards. You will need a manual trans diff (the 4 bolt diffs) if wanting a 3.9/4.09 ratio as these will not fit any auto diffs due to case sizing internally.
Yes it is totally on the dealership to warranty or not. If they choose not to then the fight moves on to corporate infiniti. From there they may or may not warranty. Chances are they wont. I have dealt with this first hand and will tell you how to fix the problem so long as you know you didn't cause the warranty problem.
Pay a lawyer about $100 or so to write a letter to the dealership and corporate infiniti stating that they are requesting proof of reason for denial and in the letter state you are contacting the better business bureau. From there, do contact the better business bureau but about two business days after the lawyer mails out the letter. From there they will contact the dealership and infiniti corporate. Rather than causing a scene they will fix your issue but I can assure you that any warranty at that point will be null and void. I had to do that with a cadillac I used to drive where the motor seized. It initially cost me 5k out of pocket to repair and once I did those steps corporate cadillac actually made the dealer pay me directly for all work done. 100%. So yes this can come back to hit the dealer.
As far as the diff swap goes, unless you pay a shop to do it they simply have to say you meshed gears wrong or improperly caused strain on the drive shaft etc. Would be quite difficult to fight.
All manual vehicles have 4 bolt flanges from what I gather reading and searching junk yards. Autos had 4 bolt on early models of g35's but switched to the same g37 three bolt before the new body style. When the new body came out of the g35, the 5 speed auto came with a 3.69 rear diff. I confirmed this by picking one up recently and counting rotation. These had 3 bolt flanges. I have heard the sport vert came with a 3.9 ratio if it was a manual vehicle but due to it being manual it did not apply to me so I skipped checking them out at junk yards. You will need a manual trans diff (the 4 bolt diffs) if wanting a 3.9/4.09 ratio as these will not fit any auto diffs due to case sizing internally.
02-02-2017 | 08:00 PM
#36
Found myself reading through this again, only to see my own posts at the end, LOL.
Anyway, purchased Whiteline bushings last summer, and the diff rebuild kit last fall. And just a few weeks ago, the 4.083 Ring & Pinion arrived. Next up: Installation, scheduled for April. I'm on the long plan for this mod, but it's happening soon enough.
Finally.
Anyway, purchased Whiteline bushings last summer, and the diff rebuild kit last fall. And just a few weeks ago, the 4.083 Ring & Pinion arrived. Next up: Installation, scheduled for April. I'm on the long plan for this mod, but it's happening soon enough.
Finally.
02-04-2017 | 07:29 AM
#37
Thread Starter
Administrator
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 12,184
Likes: 243
From: Doha, Qatar
Found myself reading through this again, only to see my own posts at the end, LOL.
Anyway, purchased Whiteline bushings last summer, and the diff rebuild kit last fall. And just a few weeks ago, the 4.083 Ring & Pinion arrived. Next up: Installation, scheduled for April. I'm on the long plan for this mod, but it's happening soon enough.
Finally.
Anyway, purchased Whiteline bushings last summer, and the diff rebuild kit last fall. And just a few weeks ago, the 4.083 Ring & Pinion arrived. Next up: Installation, scheduled for April. I'm on the long plan for this mod, but it's happening soon enough.
Finally.
05-07-2017 | 09:28 PM
#38
This was no incremental mod. Bottom end torque is fat and easy now. 1st and 2nd gear are still drivable, but can also be crazy quick. In fact, daily driving this car is easier. Normally, when attacking a low speed turn, if I rev-match down to second I can ride around the curve and power out. When you do it right, it's a very rewarding experience. But sometimes that maneuver can be too brutal for the moment, making me into a bit of a jackazz.
Now, however, I can ride typical turns in 3rd gear, and there's plenty of grunt to pull me out of the curve. I don't have to "attack" a turn to enjoy it more. In other words, daily driving is awesome with 4.083 gears.
And when I want to go WOT, it's nuts.
10-02-2017 | 11:26 PM
#39
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Do you remember from what car did the diff on The right came off of ?
How to do it
Here's a list of parts I used:
38100-0C760 : 4.083:1 Ring & pinion
38140-0C00A : Pinion Front Bearing
38120-EC000 : Pinion Rear Bearing
38189-P0117 : Oil Seal
38154-0C000 : Washer adjustment
43262-01P10 : Drive Pinion Nut Lock
38165-0C020 : Differential Spacer
Attachment 153943
I had 170,000 kms on my diff so I figured I'd replace the above parts while I had everything open.
Here's an exploded view of the diff incase you're wondering what all these parts are:
Attachment 153944
If you want to swap the diff bushings, now is the time too
I got a set of Whileline Bushings as my OEM's were shot.
One thing's for sure, you will need an MT differential housing. I tried to use my OEM G37 A/T one and the pinion shaft wouldn't even fit in it. I then tried an A/T from a 350Z and the pinion would not touch the ring no matter how much we moved it around. The only way to pull this off is to use an M/T diff housing. I picked up an MT diff from a 370Z and used my friend's 350Z M/T LSD. Everything fit like a glove.
Attachment 153945
Here's the tricky bit, if you're coming from an A/T G37, then your pinion flange will have three bolts in a triangular layout. The MT's and older ATs came with the round 4 bolt flange. Here's a pic of them side by side.
Attachment 153946
This means your AT G37 driveshaft flange will not bolt straight up. Since my driveshaft has been already customized, I did not mind cutting its end off and fitting a 4 bolt flange from an M/T. SharpByCoop reported you could use an older G35 driveshaft's rear half and it would bolt right up.
The Facts
You will gain 21% more torque in every rpm in every gear when going from 3.36:1 to 4.08:1! You will however lose 21% speed at every rpm. To give you an idea, my car did almost 100 mph at 3k rpm in 5th. It now does around 85 mph. Not complaining!
Butt Dyno
The car finally feels alive again. The RB25's long ratio's killed my car when mated to the 3.3 ratio. The difference was really impressive in every gear. I can only imagine what this would do on a VQ G37. This IMO is a must do mod if you're planning on staying naturally aspirated.
Impact on Fuel Economy
I have not tested it yet but many say it would cause it to drop. There are more aspects to fuel economy than just engine rpm though. Throttle position and engine efficiency come to mind. My findings may not be very relevant here though.
Here's a list of parts I used:
38100-0C760 : 4.083:1 Ring & pinion
38140-0C00A : Pinion Front Bearing
38120-EC000 : Pinion Rear Bearing
38189-P0117 : Oil Seal
38154-0C000 : Washer adjustment
43262-01P10 : Drive Pinion Nut Lock
38165-0C020 : Differential Spacer
Attachment 153943
I had 170,000 kms on my diff so I figured I'd replace the above parts while I had everything open.
Here's an exploded view of the diff incase you're wondering what all these parts are:
Attachment 153944
If you want to swap the diff bushings, now is the time too
I got a set of Whileline Bushings as my OEM's were shot.One thing's for sure, you will need an MT differential housing. I tried to use my OEM G37 A/T one and the pinion shaft wouldn't even fit in it. I then tried an A/T from a 350Z and the pinion would not touch the ring no matter how much we moved it around. The only way to pull this off is to use an M/T diff housing. I picked up an MT diff from a 370Z and used my friend's 350Z M/T LSD. Everything fit like a glove.
Attachment 153945
Here's the tricky bit, if you're coming from an A/T G37, then your pinion flange will have three bolts in a triangular layout. The MT's and older ATs came with the round 4 bolt flange. Here's a pic of them side by side.
Attachment 153946
This means your AT G37 driveshaft flange will not bolt straight up. Since my driveshaft has been already customized, I did not mind cutting its end off and fitting a 4 bolt flange from an M/T. SharpByCoop reported you could use an older G35 driveshaft's rear half and it would bolt right up.
The Facts
You will gain 21% more torque in every rpm in every gear when going from 3.36:1 to 4.08:1! You will however lose 21% speed at every rpm. To give you an idea, my car did almost 100 mph at 3k rpm in 5th. It now does around 85 mph. Not complaining!
Butt Dyno
The car finally feels alive again. The RB25's long ratio's killed my car when mated to the 3.3 ratio. The difference was really impressive in every gear. I can only imagine what this would do on a VQ G37. This IMO is a must do mod if you're planning on staying naturally aspirated.
Impact on Fuel Economy
I have not tested it yet but many say it would cause it to drop. There are more aspects to fuel economy than just engine rpm though. Throttle position and engine efficiency come to mind. My findings may not be very relevant here though.
03-04-2018 | 02:20 PM
#40
Sam- I keep hearing that all of these parts are from the Nissan Frontier. Couldn't you just go buy a used Frontier rear diff and save a lot of money on parts and the install while not having to worry if it was assembled correctly with the shims?
03-08-2018 | 01:37 AM
#41
Registered Member
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
The flange and axle stubs are different, I believe the carrier is different as well
03-08-2018 | 07:16 AM
#42
03-08-2018 | 10:04 AM
#43
That's a good point that I never even considered. You are absolutely right. Almost every Frontier has open diffs on both ends because they use Anti-lock brake limited slip (brake one wheel- send power to the other side) because it is quicker to react and I am sure cheaper to produce. Only the Pro4X has an electronic locking rear diff at low speeds so probably very different internals to our diff.
03-10-2018 | 11:47 AM
#44
How to do it
Here's a list of parts I used:
38100-0C760 : 4.083:1 Ring & pinion
38140-0C00A : Pinion Front Bearing
38120-EC000 : Pinion Rear Bearing
38189-P0117 : Oil Seal
38154-0C000 : Washer adjustment
43262-01P10 : Drive Pinion Nut Lock
38165-0C020 : Differential Spacer
Attachment 153943
Here's a list of parts I used:
38100-0C760 : 4.083:1 Ring & pinion
38140-0C00A : Pinion Front Bearing
38120-EC000 : Pinion Rear Bearing
38189-P0117 : Oil Seal
38154-0C000 : Washer adjustment
43262-01P10 : Drive Pinion Nut Lock
38165-0C020 : Differential Spacer
Attachment 153943
It also looks like two of the parts have changed numbers according to Nissan: 38120-EC000 has changed to 38120-0C000 and 43262-01P10 has changed to 43262-01P1A.