CouperDouper

iTrader: (5)

On Friday I posted a thread in the Engine mod section with some questions about installing a 5/16" Motordyne plenum spacer. So far 41 members have read it but not one (zilch) person has responded. My spacer is due to arrive tomorrow and I will install it next weekend. I know that the majority of the people that have installed the spacers are ecstatic about them, however I keep reading the posts about breaking off the bolts, etc. Since no one wants to offer any advice in the national threads, maybe some friendly DFW metroplex members can set my mind at ease. I am pretty good with a wrench, have a torque wrench, etc. but it would kill me if I broke off a bolt or stripped a tread during the install. Can ANYONE offer me any advice or pointers on how to make sure the install goes smoothly and without mishap? I'm to the point of not even using the torque wrench and just using Motordyne's hand tightening method. Also, I have talked to Tony and he said not to worry about resetting the ECU via unhooking the negative battery terminal but just to drive it to redline a couple of times after the install and that would do the trick. Please, somebody respond!!!

hyperlitesmu

Well first of all....after the install you should absolutely reset the ECU. I lost my boost maps on the ECU when I got my stereo installed....a quick reset of the ECU brought my car back. (When I say it was running bad I mean I lost about 100 rwhp because it was untuned.) After the reset everything was cool so I do recommend a reset. Preferably using the pedal method (There is a thread on this, do a search) As for the spacer, I hear nothing but good things about that mod. The best thing I would probably tell you is to tighten the bolts evenly around the plenum before making your final torques. I think the spacer comes with pretty comprehensive instructions and if you are good with a wrench it should turn out fine.

TwoK4drSi

iTrader: (4)

I think the skunk2 spacer gives you stronger bolts

Moog

iTrader: (10)

Find some grade 8 bolts and you won't have a problem w/ breaking them.

CouperDouper

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for everyone's input. Where can you get grade 8 bolts??

hyperlitesmu

Couper, I am having the Skunk2 5/8' spacer installed today actually. After the install it is going to get an ECU reset and a dyno. I will let you know if it is in fact worth your time and money by Wed. I am having some other stuff installed as well, but I will get a pretty good ballpark on that spacer for you.

CouperDouper

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, Hyper. I'll be anxious to hear your results. Who's installing it and how much are they charging?

hyperlitesmu

Velocity Performance over in Carrolton. I had them tune the car when it was first built so it made sense to go back. I am having some other parts put on as well, but the spacer alone should be in the neighborhood of about $50 to $75. It's about an hour or 2 worth of work so it shouldn't be too bad. If I didnt have a trunk full of other crap to put on it I would have just installed it myself.

sin4me

iTrader: (1)

Tony's instructions are pretty clear cut. You should be able to install it in a little over an hour, a little more if you really take your time. When I installed mine, I did snap a bolt the first time using the torque wrench I have. It's a 3/8" drive craftsman and although it it goes down to 5lbs (lowest setting), it really shouldn't be used at that extreme. A minor set back, using a screw extractor set was able to get the broken bolt out...however, the length of the bolts are NOT common - I must have went to every autozone/pepboys/o'reilys/napa/home depot/loews/ace hardware/elliots hardware in plano and NO BODY had the same size. Anyways, a quick email to Tony and he got me the replacement bolts needed. Once I got everything back on again, I just lightly hand tightened them - 5lbs is hardly anything, I think the point of that specification is to make sure people don't torque the hell out of them. I drove around a couple days and checked them again to make sure everything was still good and so far, no problems.

One more thing, I also reset the ECU after using the pedal method mentioned on this site. Kind of a pain to do, but I didn't want to leave the negative battery cable disconnected for 12 hours..

G35StrongMan

Sin4me,
You can disconnect your negative battery cable and hit the brake pedal . That will discharge the electrical system and clear the ECU. I’ve done it twice when I added my Z-tube and K&N and then when I had the ½” spacer+ ISO Kit installed.

sin4me

iTrader: (1)

Good to know, thx for the tip!

hyperlitesmu

Just do a search on the forums, there are about 10 DIY's on resetting the ECU and I'm telling you they do work.

CouperDouper

iTrader: (5)

Sin4me,
So did you end up just using the hand tightening method or did you use your torque wrench for the perimeter bolts? Elliot's Hardware has a 0-150 in/lb torque wrench for $70. I'm thinking the peace of mind might be worth getting one, plus the checking to make sure none of the bolts have loosened periodically. If you did just use the hand tightening method, were there no leaks? I don't want it to leak, but I SURE don't want to have to drill out and extract a broken bolt. That would turn an hour or two job into a day or two, something the wife would give me hell about (more than she gives me already every time I add something new to "mid-life-crisis-mobile"). Thanks for your advice!
CouperDouper

sin4me

iTrader: (1)

The second time I just hand tightened them, like I said 5lbs is not much at all. Basically once they were on there, I gave them a little extra nudge and moved on to the next one. I've had it installed for about 2 months now and haven't had any problems.