DIY: Adding dipstick to your 7AT
#61
For those who need to know how the dipstick assembly should look, I'll add a pic below. I did it for my 2013 g37x last year. Finding someone who sold the tube was a pain. Ended up finding one on ebay. If you're doing it on an awd, it will be difficult without a lift because the transfer case driveshaft is blocking the way to the bolt on the transmission. It's easier to remove the driveshaft on a lift. I ended up taking it to a shop. For those with rwd, this shouldn't be a problem.
I was curious to see if there's still any on ebay, there's actually one listed.
I was curious to see if there's still any on ebay, there's actually one listed.
The following users liked this post:
ngolbuff (09-28-2020)
#62
For those who need to know how the dipstick assembly should look, I'll add a pic below. I did it for my 2013 g37x last year. Finding someone who sold the tube was a pain. Ended up finding one on ebay. If you're doing it on an awd, it will be difficult without a lift because the transfer case driveshaft is blocking the way to the bolt on the transmission. It's easier to remove the driveshaft on a lift. I ended up taking it to a shop. For those with rwd, this shouldn't be a problem.
I was curious to see if there's still any on ebay, there's actually one listed.
I was curious to see if there's still any on ebay, there's actually one listed.
#63
I'm seriously needing to do this! The trans in my car is shifting funny and I have a feeling that it has to do with low fluid. I found a dipstick out of an M35 for the RE5R05A transmission, I just want to make sure that I've got the right one here. (I should probably also hit a junkyard before I pull the trigger, but that's not a priority until thursday as I'm about to write exams for school lol)
Just want to make sure that what I found will do the trick! TIA!
Just want to make sure that what I found will do the trick! TIA!
#64
I'm seriously needing to do this! The trans in my car is shifting funny and I have a feeling that it has to do with low fluid. I found a dipstick out of an M35 for the RE5R05A transmission, I just want to make sure that I've got the right one here. (I should probably also hit a junkyard before I pull the trigger, but that's not a priority until thursday as I'm about to write exams for school lol)
Just want to make sure that what I found will do the trick! TIA!
Just want to make sure that what I found will do the trick! TIA!
If your AT is acting up. I’d do a service ASAP. It’s a bit of a pain but doable. There is a really good sticky on how to do it here. I recommend getting the adapter below, a 1 gal weed sprayer, 1/4 tubing, and a 1/4 ball valve to control the flow of AT fluid. I also recommend a couple jugs of Valvline Maxlife Synthetic ATF at a wallly world near you. Put the car up on four jack stands. Drain and pull pan. Clean it. Refill, run 10 min drain, and refill, repeat 1 more time. Only takes a couple hours.
This screws into the pan.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fitting-Met....m46890.l49292
I did this last spring a AT is working perfectly. Course I only had 60K on it.
The following users liked this post:
mcattawayjr (07-25-2021)
#65
I don’t think that will work. It will be extremely difficult to find one that does. Nissan stopped making them some time ago. I looked for days.
If your AT is acting up. I’d do a service ASAP. It’s a bit of a pain but doable. There is a really good sticky on how to do it here. I recommend getting the adapter below, a 1 gal weed sprayer, 1/4 tubing, and a 1/4 ball valve to control the flow of AT fluid. I also recommend a couple jugs of Valvline Maxlife Synthetic ATF at a wallly world near you. Put the car up on four jack stands. Drain and pull pan. Clean it. Refill, run 10 min drain, and refill, repeat 1 more time. Only takes a couple hours.
This screws into the pan.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fitting-Met....m46890.l49292
I did this last spring a AT is working perfectly. Course I only had 60K on it.
If your AT is acting up. I’d do a service ASAP. It’s a bit of a pain but doable. There is a really good sticky on how to do it here. I recommend getting the adapter below, a 1 gal weed sprayer, 1/4 tubing, and a 1/4 ball valve to control the flow of AT fluid. I also recommend a couple jugs of Valvline Maxlife Synthetic ATF at a wallly world near you. Put the car up on four jack stands. Drain and pull pan. Clean it. Refill, run 10 min drain, and refill, repeat 1 more time. Only takes a couple hours.
This screws into the pan.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fitting-Met....m46890.l49292
I did this last spring a AT is working perfectly. Course I only had 60K on it.
edit: also if my math is right, I've only got 54k miles on mine. It's a pain that it's doing this but c'est la vie...
Last edited by Conboss; 12-13-2020 at 02:55 PM.
#66
Time Saver!
Well boys... I'm here to report....
THAT IT WORKED! IT ACTUALLY FREAKIN WORKED! Okay so here's the deal. Allow me to explain what I did. On the passenger side, towards the bell house, kind of a tight spot, the cap is there. If you get a flashlight, you can actually see where it is. Or if you look for it, you can see it from above behind the engine. I knew this was going to be a PITA, being a tight spot but it's do able, and you won't lose fluid either believe it or not.
So the first thing you will need is a dipstick SPECIFICALLY from a 08 G37 coupe with a 5AT. The transmission is known by it's name, Aisin RE5R05A. Our 7at is called the Aisin RE7R01A. These two share one big thing in common, the casing. They're identical. You cannot use the RE5R01A from the previous generation of G35's, they are not the same. So you need the dipstick from the RE5R05A. This is very important okay?
Tools you will need:
1x 10MM shallow 3/8's socket
1x 3/8's ratchet
1x 10MM wrench
1x flashlight
1x short small flathead
1. Get the car either jackstands or ramps. You only need to raise the front, it doesn't need to be level as you are not adding fluid. And no it's not going to leak fluid out the port. If it does... You're overfilled anyways by way too much.
2. Locate the port. Be careful, do not attempt this if you just drove the car, it's right next to the catalytic converter (or test pipe if that's what you're running) plus the transmission is going to be incredibly hot itself. Wait a couple hours if need be. The port is going to be on the passenger side, towards the bell housing. You can see it from the top of the car as well if you look behind the engine on the passenger side. It's easy to spot from the bottom as it will have what looks like a tube casted into the transmission's side. Feel for the bolt, it's there and it's a 10mm.
3. Remove the bolt. If you have multiple extensions (I used a 12" and two 6" with a wobble knuckle), you can get it from the top. It's a lot easier that way then doing it from the bottom due to room.
4. From the bottom of the car, look up on the bell housing, you will see a metal bracket with a clip holding the wiring harness for the transmission. The bolt holding it is a 10mm. If you can save the clip, do it. I unfortunately went ahead and cut it. The dipstick tube will bolt there if it's not bent (curved) away from it. Sadly, mine was. Use multiple extensions to get to the bracket bolt from the back of the transmission, was much easier than trying to get to it in the little room I had. I used a small impact gun to take it out (milwaukee 3/8's, makes things easy).
5. Go head and remove the cap from the transmission. Why didn't I have you do it in step 3? So you don't get dirt and crud inside the transmission. Go ahead and use the flathead to pop it out. It's not really stuck in there. It literally just pops out. You could probably use your nail actually. Anyways, go ahead and remove the cap. Don't lose the o-ring in case your dipstick didn't come with one or is cracked and unusable. That's what I ended up doing.
6. Guide the dipstick tube without the dipstick down to the port. Easiest thing to do is come from the top, just remember the bolt was towards the back of the transmission and not the front. Once you are close, crawl under the car and guide it into the transmission. Take your bolt from the cap and thread it in. Don't tighten yet.
7. There is a hole on the back of the cylinder head where the dipstick will bolt to. Find a bolt that will thread in back there. It's very easy to find where it goes as the tube will naturally rest close to it or right over it. Leave finger tight.
8. Remember the wiring harness bracket I told you to take off? The middle point of the dipstick tube has it's own bracket and should line up right with the hole on the bellhousing. In my case, it did not. So I did not worry about it. If you saved the clip for the wiring harness, clip it to the dipstick tube. I zip tied it there as I'd cut the clip. And I didn't worry about the bolt. If it's like mine where it was a little bent away from there, do not worry about as you have two other points that are holding it (engine and tranny port). Just make sure the wiring harness is attached to this bracket.
9. Tighten up both the bolts on the transmission port for the dipstick and the back of the cylinder head.
10. Insert the dipstick into the tube and get your car down (off the ramps or jackstands). Start it, check for leaks. Go test drive it for a few minutes then come back and check for the leaks.
11. The most important part of all... Check the transmission fluid (the way it was supposed to be) and make sure it's at operating temp.
YOU ARE DONE and now you no longer have to do it the hard way with checking fluid, changing the fluid and checking the condition of it. And I am happy to report the dipstick is in fact accurate. HERE'S PICTURES
Dipstick coming out of said port (yes I have a coolant leak. I am currently fixing it as we speak. Just wanted to inform you guys now)
The cap that sealed off the transmission, the port plug as you will.
This right here marks it. A 7AT with a dipstick
Sorry for this messy instructional forum. And my rambling. Anyways I hope you guys have a good day
THAT IT WORKED! IT ACTUALLY FREAKIN WORKED! Okay so here's the deal. Allow me to explain what I did. On the passenger side, towards the bell house, kind of a tight spot, the cap is there. If you get a flashlight, you can actually see where it is. Or if you look for it, you can see it from above behind the engine. I knew this was going to be a PITA, being a tight spot but it's do able, and you won't lose fluid either believe it or not.
So the first thing you will need is a dipstick SPECIFICALLY from a 08 G37 coupe with a 5AT. The transmission is known by it's name, Aisin RE5R05A. Our 7at is called the Aisin RE7R01A. These two share one big thing in common, the casing. They're identical. You cannot use the RE5R01A from the previous generation of G35's, they are not the same. So you need the dipstick from the RE5R05A. This is very important okay?
Tools you will need:
1x 10MM shallow 3/8's socket
1x 3/8's ratchet
1x 10MM wrench
1x flashlight
1x short small flathead
1. Get the car either jackstands or ramps. You only need to raise the front, it doesn't need to be level as you are not adding fluid. And no it's not going to leak fluid out the port. If it does... You're overfilled anyways by way too much.
2. Locate the port. Be careful, do not attempt this if you just drove the car, it's right next to the catalytic converter (or test pipe if that's what you're running) plus the transmission is going to be incredibly hot itself. Wait a couple hours if need be. The port is going to be on the passenger side, towards the bell housing. You can see it from the top of the car as well if you look behind the engine on the passenger side. It's easy to spot from the bottom as it will have what looks like a tube casted into the transmission's side. Feel for the bolt, it's there and it's a 10mm.
3. Remove the bolt. If you have multiple extensions (I used a 12" and two 6" with a wobble knuckle), you can get it from the top. It's a lot easier that way then doing it from the bottom due to room.
4. From the bottom of the car, look up on the bell housing, you will see a metal bracket with a clip holding the wiring harness for the transmission. The bolt holding it is a 10mm. If you can save the clip, do it. I unfortunately went ahead and cut it. The dipstick tube will bolt there if it's not bent (curved) away from it. Sadly, mine was. Use multiple extensions to get to the bracket bolt from the back of the transmission, was much easier than trying to get to it in the little room I had. I used a small impact gun to take it out (milwaukee 3/8's, makes things easy).
5. Go head and remove the cap from the transmission. Why didn't I have you do it in step 3? So you don't get dirt and crud inside the transmission. Go ahead and use the flathead to pop it out. It's not really stuck in there. It literally just pops out. You could probably use your nail actually. Anyways, go ahead and remove the cap. Don't lose the o-ring in case your dipstick didn't come with one or is cracked and unusable. That's what I ended up doing.
6. Guide the dipstick tube without the dipstick down to the port. Easiest thing to do is come from the top, just remember the bolt was towards the back of the transmission and not the front. Once you are close, crawl under the car and guide it into the transmission. Take your bolt from the cap and thread it in. Don't tighten yet.
7. There is a hole on the back of the cylinder head where the dipstick will bolt to. Find a bolt that will thread in back there. It's very easy to find where it goes as the tube will naturally rest close to it or right over it. Leave finger tight.
8. Remember the wiring harness bracket I told you to take off? The middle point of the dipstick tube has it's own bracket and should line up right with the hole on the bellhousing. In my case, it did not. So I did not worry about it. If you saved the clip for the wiring harness, clip it to the dipstick tube. I zip tied it there as I'd cut the clip. And I didn't worry about the bolt. If it's like mine where it was a little bent away from there, do not worry about as you have two other points that are holding it (engine and tranny port). Just make sure the wiring harness is attached to this bracket.
9. Tighten up both the bolts on the transmission port for the dipstick and the back of the cylinder head.
10. Insert the dipstick into the tube and get your car down (off the ramps or jackstands). Start it, check for leaks. Go test drive it for a few minutes then come back and check for the leaks.
11. The most important part of all... Check the transmission fluid (the way it was supposed to be) and make sure it's at operating temp.
YOU ARE DONE and now you no longer have to do it the hard way with checking fluid, changing the fluid and checking the condition of it. And I am happy to report the dipstick is in fact accurate. HERE'S PICTURES
Dipstick coming out of said port (yes I have a coolant leak. I am currently fixing it as we speak. Just wanted to inform you guys now)
The cap that sealed off the transmission, the port plug as you will.
This right here marks it. A 7AT with a dipstick
Sorry for this messy instructional forum. And my rambling. Anyways I hope you guys have a good day
#67
For those who need to know how the dipstick assembly should look, I'll add a pic below. I did it for my 2013 g37x last year. Finding someone who sold the tube was a pain. Ended up finding one on ebay. If you're doing it on an awd, it will be difficult without a lift because the transfer case driveshaft is blocking the way to the bolt on the transmission. It's easier to remove the driveshaft on a lift. I ended up taking it to a shop. For those with rwd, this shouldn't be a problem.
I was curious to see if there's still any on ebay, there's actually one listed.
I was curious to see if there's still any on ebay, there's actually one listed.
hi, I got a q40 and Im too old to be screwing around under the car trying to check the level of fluid. My question is how difficult is it to remove the shaft and does it rub or hit in anyway the dipstick tube?
#68
The shaft to the front wheels won't rub the dipstick. Just that the shaft is blocking the way to access the bolt and cap where the end of the dipstick tube goes. The shaft can be removed easily on a lift, watch this video on 0.5x speed at 2:40
Imagine doing that on your back. Once the shaft is removed, you can easily access the spot where that tube needs to bolt on.
#70
Preparation is key. Prior to this I reccomend some lubricant to that 10mm bolt 1-3 days before the install, this will make sure the lubricant will penetrate through the loctite in the threat of this bolt. If I'm not mistaken that bolt is serrated which meant Infiniti/Nissan did not want amateur hands on it.
This preparation will save you a broken bolt.
A broken bolt is GAME OVER.
This was my old transmission, the old owner ****ed up.
This preparation will save you a broken bolt.
A broken bolt is GAME OVER.
This was my old transmission, the old owner ****ed up.
Last edited by BULL; 01-22-2021 at 01:00 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by BULL:
AN1K (11-23-2022),
m3clubracer (02-12-2024)
#71
Preparation is key. Prior to this I reccomend some lubricant to that 10mm bolt 1-3 days before the install, this will make sure the lubricant will penetrate through the loctite in the threat of this bolt. If I'm not mistaken that bolt is serrated which meant Infiniti/Nissan did not want amateur hands on it.
This preparation will save you a broken bolt.
A broken bolt is GAME OVER.
This was my old transmission, the old owner ****ed up.
This preparation will save you a broken bolt.
A broken bolt is GAME OVER.
This was my old transmission, the old owner ****ed up.
#72
Preparation is key. Prior to this I reccomend some lubricant to that 10mm bolt 1-3 days before the install, this will make sure the lubricant will penetrate through the loctite in the threat of this bolt. If I'm not mistaken that bolt is serrated which meant Infiniti/Nissan did not want amateur hands on it.
This preparation will save you a broken bolt.
A broken bolt is GAME OVER.
This was my old transmission, the old owner ****ed up.
This preparation will save you a broken bolt.
A broken bolt is GAME OVER.
This was my old transmission, the old owner ****ed up.
well that poses a wrinkle then lol
how many people have actually attempted this mod on a late model G or a q40?...seems like its mostly wishful thinking
Last edited by Tatus; 01-23-2021 at 05:20 PM. Reason: addition
#73
As far as the bolt goes, you can see it's an open hole so with the proper procedures ahead of times you'll be triumphant. In my case this hole led to debris and water to enter the trans killing it prematurely.
#74
#75
I just did the mod. The bolt holding the dipstick to the transmission snapped off pretty easily. I was able to secure the dipstick to the engine with the top mount. Time will tell if this will leak. I may try to attach the dipstick to the transmission with JB weld or some other way, very frustrated.