***AWD to RWD is a "Track Only" modification and liability for this modification is on the owner/operator. Do so at your own risk***

There has been a couple of write ups on how to do this previously but when using them I ran into issues as well as others (blown fuses, stuck in RWD...)

This is to show the correct way to accomplish this. Tools required (trim removal tool/flathead screwdriver, phillips head screwdriver, needle nose pliers, soldering iron, heat shrink, extra wire, razor blade/wire cutter)

1: The AWD module is located behind the glove box to it will need to be taken off to get to the wiring. Open the glove box and pull up on it to remove the hook latches. Then remove the tension wire on the back left by popping it off. With a couple of wiggles the box should come out.


2: Remove the phillips screws on the glove box backing. I believe there are four on the top and two on the bottom. Maybe one in the middle.

3: With all screws removed pull back on the box and it should pop right out. Disconnect all of the wiring harnesses on the back and remove it.


4: With this removed you are able to see the AWD module. Disconnect the plug to allow more freedom to work.


5: Other DIYs have shown the orange wire as the one to be cut but this is not the case and a mistake that I made originally. Thank you to Mr. Blackwell on Facebook for correcting me. It is actually the green wire or wire #7 in the diagram.


6: With the plug out isolate the green wire and cut it.


7: Solder your switch wires on the the green wires and place the clip back into the module. (take note of my genius soldering stand)


8: Run your wires to your switch and you're done.

As a caveat, only toggle your switch with the car off or you may blow a fuse. The fuse is a 10amp located by the battery (ETS Fuse). I am going to try to see if I can up the fuse amperage in order to use the switch while the car is on. Also, this switch has worked differently for me than others as it shuts off my traction control as well (but that isn't really a problem).

 

Lt8Che, Thanks for the write-up on this! Good idea with the paper clips for soldering!
What were your problems with cutting the orange wire, curious?
Also, now that your using the green wire you aren't able to switch the AWD off while the car is running with out blowing the ETS Fuse? Sounds like others have had no problem with this but sounds like you have blown some fuses?
I know you need to shut the car off (cycle power) and flip the switch back on, then restart the car to enable the AWD again.

 

The orange wire ended up blowing the fuse anytime I flipped the switch (whether the car was on or off).

I haven't blown a fuse with the green wire but I haven't tried using the switch while the car is on yet.

 

I know this might sound like a dumb question that I'm not sure how the switch works but I took power from my cigarette lighter and connected it to the switch, I then connected the green wire to the switch and then grounded it, this is correct or no?

 

The way I understood this mod, the green wire is the ground for the AWD module. When you cut the green wire, you've interrupted the ground and the module doesn't work.

Your switch, from what I can tell, should only be connected to GROUND. Toggling the switch off and on opens and closes the ground. I don't think any power should be part of the switch.

Perhaps the OP can be modified to clarify where the switch connects and its role. He only states:

"8: Run your wires to your switch and you're done."

 

Ohh yeah but my switch on its diagram has a 12v post a load post and a ground post, and it has a little indicator light inside that turns on when the switch is activated so I dunno if it would work like that

 

Power is not required for the switch. I just put an inline switch between the green wire. I'm not sure how adding a power source would effect this at all.

 

I see. I envisioned you connecting the power from the cigarette lighter to the ground of the AWD module...I didn't know you had a lighted switch.

I haven't installed a switch in over 15 years...but my memory of them (non-lighted) is a single input and output...and IIRC they normally interrupt power, not ground. So it may be that your switch wants to interrupt the 12V input for the light on the switched output. That probably won't work for you.

A plain switch really won't care if you use it for ground or 12V, but this switch is specific as you're powering the light. If the 12V source for the light is independent of the input, then it would work, but it doesn't sound like you have this sort of switch. Since the light is sharing the 12V with the output...you can't install this the way you're thinking.

Did I explain this clearly?

 

I found another way to turn off the AWD on a track day.
Drive the car really hard and fast for the first 5-10 min. Then the AWD system is getting overheated, the AWD light start blinking which makes the car RWD....

Don't try it at home...(or public roads)

 

ok now... how do I force AWD ON all the time?

I have an FX50 that I sometimes offroad...

 

I'm looking into this too (as well as beefing up the transfer case!)

 

Keep me up to date on the progress with the Transfer Case.

 

Awesome write up......gonna try this.
How I never thought of that clip. lol

 

I'm going to attempt this but want to be 100% clear with the steps. When you cut the ground/green cable, how do you wire the switch? I see the picture above and see one end of wire to the switch and the other just cut. Wouldn't you have to wire in the other end as well? Might be a dumb question but again just want to be clear.

 

Both ends of the cut wire will need to be wired to the switch. That allows it to have a signal/current run through it and when the switch is flipped it cuts the signal/current.