DIY: Whiteline Differential bushings
12-30-2017 | 04:45 AM
#181
Registered User
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 111
Likes: 6
From: SoCaL
I am 70 miles from LA. I just have to keep looking. The one place said that they are close to the exhaust and that is why they would melt. I don't know why Rubber wouldn't melt, but Poly would. From what I have seen, a lot of people have done this change and not complained about melting.
A mechanic that I trust told me 380 for the job, will have him do the diff fluid at the same time. Might even have him flush the brake fluid with the stuff I have.
A mechanic that I trust told me 380 for the job, will have him do the diff fluid at the same time. Might even have him flush the brake fluid with the stuff I have.
Project import in Orange CA! they've done tons of diff bushing swaps for vq chassis. Don't believe what they tell you about aftermarket poly bushings melt that's BS! the only one that melts are the oem bushings cuz they are fluid filled gel that fails all the time.
12-30-2017 | 09:04 AM
#182
$20 / 20 minute bushing fix video is now done:
https://youtu.be/fXYdemPSu2s
https://youtu.be/fXYdemPSu2s
You should go ahead and replace the two side bushings since you have them. I suspect those little guys actually introduce the more noticeable change, because while the main mount holds the lion's share of weight, it's the side mounts that take on the most compression abuse.
"Zed one"... Canadians, LOL
12-30-2017 | 12:18 PM
#183
Registered Member
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 318
Likes: 332
Props for truly amazing under the car video. Only time will tell if the epoxy will hold up, but damn fine out-of-the-box thinking, Frank. For comparison, it took my mechanic nearly half a day hacking at the main OEM mount to remove and replace. It's a messy, frustrating job.
You should go ahead and replace the two side bushings since you have them. I suspect those little guys actually introduce the more noticeable change, because while the main mount holds the lion's share of weight, it's the side mounts that take on the most compression abuse.
"Zed one"... Canadians, LOL
You should go ahead and replace the two side bushings since you have them. I suspect those little guys actually introduce the more noticeable change, because while the main mount holds the lion's share of weight, it's the side mounts that take on the most compression abuse.
"Zed one"... Canadians, LOL
I will have a closer look at the side bushings in the spring.
When I was writing the script I thought about saying is the other way (Zee one) but had to stay true to my roots, so "Zed one" it is
01-27-2018 | 11:40 PM
#184
Registered Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 38
Likes: 1
Thanks qmantran! I tackled this today and referred to your pics a few times! It was a PITA but not bad at all!!!
04-25-2018 | 11:44 PM
#186
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 2
Likes: 2
2011 G37s 6 MT 80k 100% stock Whiteline Rear differential bushing Install!!
First of all I got to say thanks to Tvpostsound and krazzyborri you inspired me seriously lol! For all Diyers this is very doable you just have to do it step by step. Like many others say if you can get your Rusted exhaust bolts off then that's half the battle right there. I cannot stress enough how much of a difference it makes to have the correct tools. I literally did this whole job by myself and did it all in about 4 hours but i definitely took my time and didn't rush anything.
Tools: 14mm regular and deep socket ( exhaust bolts, make sure to spray heavy amounts pb blaster prior to project and while removing)
17mm regular and deep socket ( differential bolts and driveshaft bolts)
17mm open end wrench
Hammer and 24mm socket ( to knock out old bushings from actual differential (pumpkin)
Chisel set from harbor freight i am sure any chisel would work.
Torque wrench 1/2 inch
Ratchet 1/2 inch
Milwaukee 1/4 impact driver ( this made this that much easier and made taking the drive shaft bolts a breeze and removing the actual differential a breeze plus all metal shields.)
10mm socket (to remove covers over the sway bar endlinks and drive shaft cover.)
12mm or 14mm socket (to remove sway bar.)
Dewalt saw zall and 2 new blades( 2 blades one for cutting up the rubber bushing after drilling holes in it. and one for the cutting the remaining outer metal bushing. also cut 2 slits in the remaining outer metal bracket about 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch from each other and use chisel to knock it out then you can just chisel the rest out in one to two smacks.
Cordless drill (to drill holes in bushing to extract the guts
Pb Blaster ( spray on the exhaust bolts heavily the night before removing.)
3 ton Jack ( its what i have im sure 1.5 ton would work its just to get it on stands.
3 ton jack stands ( after setting up on stands Rock car several times to make sure its safe.)
2 wheel chocks ( under both sides of one front tire) not necessary i just like a piece of mind
Spray paint and sharpie marker (use to mark drive shaft and axle bolts so you can realign back to how they were.)
Breaker bar 1/2 inch
2 Bungie cords ( bungie up the axles so you dont damage the ujoints.)
These are the tools I used I am not saying it cant be done without these in anyway! I read this forum probably up and down for a week before I went for it and looked up every and anything that could stop me or get in my way.
I am not gonna lie it would of been way easier if i had an extra hand but whatever I am loner so it is what it is!
Tips:
1. start with exhaust rear muffler its four 14mm bolts holding the muffler on. Just break them loose and make sure they're able to come off. Then move to the two 14mm by the catalytic make sure you spray these bolts heavily the night before these are the hardest ones in my opinion there is shield by it that I removed first its four 12mm bolts. . I used a 14mm and 1/2 in ratchet the broke loose pretty easy but i sprayed them 2 days before the night before and right before I broke them loose. After you take off all the bolts you wanna spray the pb blaster on the exhaust hangers. This will make them slip right out with ease. Pull the muffler out its one bolt thats a 14mm and 2 hangers and put it aside and move to the mid pipe slide the two hangers off there is one on each side of it. Slide your jack down there and pull the mid pipe off the two studs that you removed the bolts off from earlier and just let it rest under the car.
2. sway bars remove the metal covers for the sway bar end links its three 10mm nuts on each side. unbolt the end links first i believe there 12mm or 14mm i totally forgot but there is 3 bolts on each side the end link and 2 holding up the bushing. remove the sway bar and put it aside.
3. mark the axle bolts with a black sharpie so you know where to realign it. Also spray paint the drive shaft bottom so you know where to realign it as well. Brake loose three of the axle bolts (17mm) on each axle then get in the car and take it out of gear and release the ebrake. Get back under and turn the axles to the next three bolts and get back in the car put it in gear and pull up the ebrake. Remove all the axle bolts and then bungie up the axles so there not just dangling there putting stress on the ujoints in the axle.
4. This is where i cheated a little i used an cordless 1/4 impact driver and broke the drive shaft bolts loose. There also a metal drive shaft cover I believe there four 10mm or 12mm. The impact sped this part up tremendously. I pulled the driveshaft out and layed it on a towel next to the mid pipe.
5. The pumpkin (differential) so there are 2 sensors here and a bleeder valve on top but don't be fooled just because you unplug them that's not it they are clipped onto the sub frame and are a bitch to pull out with fear of tearing the thin wiring that connect to the differential. So after unplugging the sensors look on top of the sub frame and you'll see the 2 clips on each side i just cut them out cause i was scared on pulling on them with pliers cause there's not much visibility. You can creep your hand up and pull out the bleeder valve. Grab your 17mm deep socket and break the nut loose and completely remove the nut that's in the actual busted bushing. This is the part that kind of sucks if youre doing this solo the part where people say you can almost crush your arm well that was me. Get your jack or if you have a tranny jack like tvpostsound said ( highly recommend) and scoot it up under the diff and break the two 17mm nuts that holding it up and little by little drop it down while twisting the jack handle and re adjusting and so what til its all the way down. tape up the bleeder valve and flip it over and smack out the two bushings with a 24mm socket it should only take like 3 smacks per bushing. I also took a second and used a wire brush and brake cleaner to remove the drip on the diff cover.
6. Cutting this lil bastard out. So first i drilled like 20 holes all over this bushing surrounding it til it was about to come out then I stuck my sawzall in it a make sure you have a firm grip on the saw and have the blade pushed all the way up to the base of the saw where the blade connects to the saw. This gives you the most control it might sound stupid if you know what your doing but believe me iv'e seen people do some pretty dumb ****. Cut the remaining guts out and now your left with just a metal ring in the sub frame.
You want to cut two cuts all the way through the ring make them like 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch from each other and make sure there all the way through and straight now just grab your punch or chisel and 2 or 3 smacks on the little slit you just cut should either bend up or fly out and now all the pressure is relieved and you can just grab your chisel and smack the rest out.
7. I used the tool that krazzyborri listed its on the last page i just screenshot the home depot receipt on my phone and went to home depot and had someone help me find the parts it took awhile im not gonna lie i live in Miami and everyone down here is a piece of **** no offense lol. I used that tool and slid the new bushing in and in reverse order put everything back together.
8. bikiniilust thanks to him I got all the torque specs
pumpkin
rear nut - 81ft lbs
bushing bolts - 74 ft lbs
drive shaft bolt - 54 ft lbs
axle bolts - 52 ft lbs
sway bar
bushing nuts - 25 ft lbs
endlink nuts - 41 ft lbs
I ended up going big bushing on top small bushing on bottom no top hat. Drives great so far I will update in a little.
Im sure this is full of typos and might be hard to understand im super exhausted and my fingers hurt so hope this helps a little!
Tools: 14mm regular and deep socket ( exhaust bolts, make sure to spray heavy amounts pb blaster prior to project and while removing)
17mm regular and deep socket ( differential bolts and driveshaft bolts)
17mm open end wrench
Hammer and 24mm socket ( to knock out old bushings from actual differential (pumpkin)
Chisel set from harbor freight i am sure any chisel would work.
Torque wrench 1/2 inch
Ratchet 1/2 inch
Milwaukee 1/4 impact driver ( this made this that much easier and made taking the drive shaft bolts a breeze and removing the actual differential a breeze plus all metal shields.)
10mm socket (to remove covers over the sway bar endlinks and drive shaft cover.)
12mm or 14mm socket (to remove sway bar.)
Dewalt saw zall and 2 new blades( 2 blades one for cutting up the rubber bushing after drilling holes in it. and one for the cutting the remaining outer metal bushing. also cut 2 slits in the remaining outer metal bracket about 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch from each other and use chisel to knock it out then you can just chisel the rest out in one to two smacks.
Cordless drill (to drill holes in bushing to extract the guts
Pb Blaster ( spray on the exhaust bolts heavily the night before removing.)
3 ton Jack ( its what i have im sure 1.5 ton would work its just to get it on stands.
3 ton jack stands ( after setting up on stands Rock car several times to make sure its safe.)
2 wheel chocks ( under both sides of one front tire) not necessary i just like a piece of mind
Spray paint and sharpie marker (use to mark drive shaft and axle bolts so you can realign back to how they were.)
Breaker bar 1/2 inch
2 Bungie cords ( bungie up the axles so you dont damage the ujoints.)
These are the tools I used I am not saying it cant be done without these in anyway! I read this forum probably up and down for a week before I went for it and looked up every and anything that could stop me or get in my way.
I am not gonna lie it would of been way easier if i had an extra hand but whatever I am loner so it is what it is!
Tips:
1. start with exhaust rear muffler its four 14mm bolts holding the muffler on. Just break them loose and make sure they're able to come off. Then move to the two 14mm by the catalytic make sure you spray these bolts heavily the night before these are the hardest ones in my opinion there is shield by it that I removed first its four 12mm bolts. . I used a 14mm and 1/2 in ratchet the broke loose pretty easy but i sprayed them 2 days before the night before and right before I broke them loose. After you take off all the bolts you wanna spray the pb blaster on the exhaust hangers. This will make them slip right out with ease. Pull the muffler out its one bolt thats a 14mm and 2 hangers and put it aside and move to the mid pipe slide the two hangers off there is one on each side of it. Slide your jack down there and pull the mid pipe off the two studs that you removed the bolts off from earlier and just let it rest under the car.
2. sway bars remove the metal covers for the sway bar end links its three 10mm nuts on each side. unbolt the end links first i believe there 12mm or 14mm i totally forgot but there is 3 bolts on each side the end link and 2 holding up the bushing. remove the sway bar and put it aside.
3. mark the axle bolts with a black sharpie so you know where to realign it. Also spray paint the drive shaft bottom so you know where to realign it as well. Brake loose three of the axle bolts (17mm) on each axle then get in the car and take it out of gear and release the ebrake. Get back under and turn the axles to the next three bolts and get back in the car put it in gear and pull up the ebrake. Remove all the axle bolts and then bungie up the axles so there not just dangling there putting stress on the ujoints in the axle.
4. This is where i cheated a little i used an cordless 1/4 impact driver and broke the drive shaft bolts loose. There also a metal drive shaft cover I believe there four 10mm or 12mm. The impact sped this part up tremendously. I pulled the driveshaft out and layed it on a towel next to the mid pipe.
5. The pumpkin (differential) so there are 2 sensors here and a bleeder valve on top but don't be fooled just because you unplug them that's not it they are clipped onto the sub frame and are a bitch to pull out with fear of tearing the thin wiring that connect to the differential. So after unplugging the sensors look on top of the sub frame and you'll see the 2 clips on each side i just cut them out cause i was scared on pulling on them with pliers cause there's not much visibility. You can creep your hand up and pull out the bleeder valve. Grab your 17mm deep socket and break the nut loose and completely remove the nut that's in the actual busted bushing. This is the part that kind of sucks if youre doing this solo the part where people say you can almost crush your arm well that was me. Get your jack or if you have a tranny jack like tvpostsound said ( highly recommend) and scoot it up under the diff and break the two 17mm nuts that holding it up and little by little drop it down while twisting the jack handle and re adjusting and so what til its all the way down. tape up the bleeder valve and flip it over and smack out the two bushings with a 24mm socket it should only take like 3 smacks per bushing. I also took a second and used a wire brush and brake cleaner to remove the drip on the diff cover.
6. Cutting this lil bastard out. So first i drilled like 20 holes all over this bushing surrounding it til it was about to come out then I stuck my sawzall in it a make sure you have a firm grip on the saw and have the blade pushed all the way up to the base of the saw where the blade connects to the saw. This gives you the most control it might sound stupid if you know what your doing but believe me iv'e seen people do some pretty dumb ****. Cut the remaining guts out and now your left with just a metal ring in the sub frame.
You want to cut two cuts all the way through the ring make them like 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch from each other and make sure there all the way through and straight now just grab your punch or chisel and 2 or 3 smacks on the little slit you just cut should either bend up or fly out and now all the pressure is relieved and you can just grab your chisel and smack the rest out.
7. I used the tool that krazzyborri listed its on the last page i just screenshot the home depot receipt on my phone and went to home depot and had someone help me find the parts it took awhile im not gonna lie i live in Miami and everyone down here is a piece of **** no offense lol. I used that tool and slid the new bushing in and in reverse order put everything back together.
8. bikiniilust thanks to him I got all the torque specs
pumpkin
rear nut - 81ft lbs
bushing bolts - 74 ft lbs
drive shaft bolt - 54 ft lbs
axle bolts - 52 ft lbs
sway bar
bushing nuts - 25 ft lbs
endlink nuts - 41 ft lbs
I ended up going big bushing on top small bushing on bottom no top hat. Drives great so far I will update in a little.
Im sure this is full of typos and might be hard to understand im super exhausted and my fingers hurt so hope this helps a little!
Last edited by Davidg0322; 04-26-2018 at 03:36 AM. Reason: Adding more info
08-17-2018 | 04:54 PM
#187
I finally got the dreaded leak of death as well, spent alot of time reading up and watching the Youtube video on how to do it to mentally prepare myself. The prices I called around to various shops ranged in price, found one that would do it for 3 hours labour so I'm just gonna go with it.
While I was working on the rear brakes it got me thinking, I jack up the rear in one fell swoop at the rear diff, and I saw how much the rear diff bushing flexed, makes me think the rear diff bushing leaks are caused by jacking up at the pumpkin as all the stress compresses the top side of the bushing where the fluid bladder is. Oh well, this isn't gonna make me stop using the pumpkin as the rear end jack point, but at least when I get the whiteline poly bushings it will be fine.
While I was working on the rear brakes it got me thinking, I jack up the rear in one fell swoop at the rear diff, and I saw how much the rear diff bushing flexed, makes me think the rear diff bushing leaks are caused by jacking up at the pumpkin as all the stress compresses the top side of the bushing where the fluid bladder is. Oh well, this isn't gonna make me stop using the pumpkin as the rear end jack point, but at least when I get the whiteline poly bushings it will be fine.
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