DIY: How to jack up your G
12-22-2011 | 02:19 AM
#1
How to jack up your G
mods, can you please add the 'DIY:' tag to the post?
i made this video for all the noobs out there
enjoy!
please refer to this post as my suggested jackstand point may be UNSAFE!
https://www.myg37.com/forums/3311487-post4.html
https://www.myg37.com/forums/3311518-post8.html
IMG_0290.MOV - YouTube
heres a picture of where to jack up your car from behind!
i made this video for all the noobs out there
enjoy!
please refer to this post as my suggested jackstand point may be UNSAFE!
https://www.myg37.com/forums/3311487-post4.html
https://www.myg37.com/forums/3311518-post8.html
IMG_0290.MOV - YouTube
heres a picture of where to jack up your car from behind!
Last edited by jujubii; 12-28-2011 at 08:21 PM.
12-22-2011 | 02:47 AM
#2
Just say no!!!!!
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: People's Republic of IL
Thanks for the video.. Some good views of the bottom of the car for those who haven't seen it before.
Is there a part 2 for the rear?
Is the main purpose of those red jackstand covers to prevent scratching of contact point (although it looks like yours is already scratched)?
I was thinking of cutting out rectangular wood pieces (oak actually) to place in between the jackstand and the car. This way the weight is more evenly distributed along that reinforced area.
Is there a part 2 for the rear?
Is the main purpose of those red jackstand covers to prevent scratching of contact point (although it looks like yours is already scratched)?
I was thinking of cutting out rectangular wood pieces (oak actually) to place in between the jackstand and the car. This way the weight is more evenly distributed along that reinforced area.
12-22-2011 | 03:04 AM
#4
Your making things harder on yourself than need be. If your unable to get under the front center to get both sides, I think it's too much effort to break out the scissor jack and takes too long. Just lift one side UNDER THE FRAME RAIL, and put a jack stand UNDER THE FRAME RAIL. Repeat for the other side. ...probably could have had the car done before you spun that scissor jack. Or the other option is to drive the car onto pieces of 2x4s layed flat. Then use the jack in the center.
Second - PLEASE do not put your jack stands in those locations!! Your putting the weight of your car on the sheet metal floors of the vehicle! Proper location was the way you demonstrated at 7:05. Put the jack stand perpendicular to the frame. It does not matter what area of the frame as long as it's under the frame rail.
Think about it and watch the video, when you say not to put the jack stand under this "thing" at 6:30, it's the same place the weight of the car goes when using your method just on the other side of the pinch weld. The hollow sound when you tapped the jack stand to it is a good "not safe" indicator.
(BTW I did not watch the entire video, just the main steps)
Not trying to be negative, just giving some advice. Thanks for taking the time to make the video though.
Second - PLEASE do not put your jack stands in those locations!! Your putting the weight of your car on the sheet metal floors of the vehicle! Proper location was the way you demonstrated at 7:05. Put the jack stand perpendicular to the frame. It does not matter what area of the frame as long as it's under the frame rail.
Think about it and watch the video, when you say not to put the jack stand under this "thing" at 6:30, it's the same place the weight of the car goes when using your method just on the other side of the pinch weld. The hollow sound when you tapped the jack stand to it is a good "not safe" indicator.
(BTW I did not watch the entire video, just the main steps)
Not trying to be negative, just giving some advice. Thanks for taking the time to make the video though.
12-22-2011 | 03:43 AM
#5
Your making things harder on yourself than need be. If your unable to get under the front center to get both sides, I think it's too much effort to break out the scissor jack and takes too long. Just lift one side UNDER THE FRAME RAIL, and put a jack stand UNDER THE FRAME RAIL. Repeat for the other side. ...probably could have had the car done before you spun that scissor jack. Or the other option is to drive the car onto pieces of 2x4s layed flat. Then use the jack in the center.
Second - PLEASE do not put your jack stands in those locations!! Your putting the weight of your car on the sheet metal floors of the vehicle! Proper location was the way you demonstrated at 7:05. Put the jack stand perpendicular to the frame. It does not matter what area of the frame as long as it's under the frame rail.
Think about it and watch the video, when you say not to put the jack stand under this "thing" at 6:30, it's the same place the weight of the car goes when using your method just on the other side of the pinch weld. The hollow sound when you tapped the jack stand to it is a good "not safe" indicator.
(BTW I did not watch the entire video, just the main steps)
Not trying to be negative, just giving some advice. Thanks for taking the time to make the video though.
Second - PLEASE do not put your jack stands in those locations!! Your putting the weight of your car on the sheet metal floors of the vehicle! Proper location was the way you demonstrated at 7:05. Put the jack stand perpendicular to the frame. It does not matter what area of the frame as long as it's under the frame rail.
Think about it and watch the video, when you say not to put the jack stand under this "thing" at 6:30, it's the same place the weight of the car goes when using your method just on the other side of the pinch weld. The hollow sound when you tapped the jack stand to it is a good "not safe" indicator.
(BTW I did not watch the entire video, just the main steps)
Not trying to be negative, just giving some advice. Thanks for taking the time to make the video though.
(1) so that place definitely isnt safe?
i was weary about the frame rail cuz it feels kinda soft; you can also hear some 'hollowness' between 7:00-7:06. i havent the guts to try it yet. (2)but, just to make sure, thats where i SHOULD be putting the stands and in that manner (refering to 7:05 where the Yshaped stick is perpendicular to the rail)?
as for the 2x4 jackup method, ive driven my car up a 1" think piece of wood and my jack still wouldnt fit underneath. guess ill try 2?
as for the framreail jackup method, once ive lifted 1 side of the car, you would proceed to place a stand under the rail and proceed to the other side, correct? itd feel really unsafe to have 1 stand holding the whole car while you make your way to the other side
Last edited by jujubii; 12-22-2011 at 03:57 AM.
12-22-2011 | 03:54 AM
#7
here are the ones for the stand 2 Piece Rubber Pads for Jack Stand
- regarding the earlier post about the these pads being scratched, it was damaged cuz i used to put my stands on like in 7:12 but thats a no go!
- functionally, it prevents the scratches on your car and the dreaded metal-on-metal sound. i also feel that it helps distribute the weight a little better.
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12-22-2011 | 06:00 AM
#8
thanks for the advice! no one has really ever answered my questions (in the past) about where to put the jackstands so i browsed around and saw someone rest the jackstands the way i explained it. it made sense to me because thats where you scissor jack the car
The scissor works there because it uses the strength of the pinch weld like an I beam.
(1) so that place definitely isnt safe?
No. It's just sheet metal. It obviously holds, but it's not made to support the car. If the car ever fell off the jack onto the stand it could very easily deform the panel
i was weary about the frame rail cuz it feels kinda soft; you can also hear some 'hollowness' between 7:00-7:06. i havent the guts to try it yet. (2)but, just to make sure, thats where i SHOULD be putting the stands and in that manner (refering to 7:05 where the Yshaped stick is perpendicular to the rail)?
It probably felt soft due to the rubberized protective undercoating. Not to confuse you, it is actually hollow, but its rectangle tube stock (steel). Very very strong. It's the frame of the car, the foundation and structural strength of the car. Completely appropriate safe place to support the vehicle
as for the 2x4 jackup method, ive driven my car up a 1" think piece of wood and my jack still wouldnt fit underneath. guess ill try 2?
A 2x4 is 1.5 inches thick. May work over the 1" board.
as for the framreail jackup method, once ive lifted 1 side of the car, you would proceed to place a stand under the rail and proceed to the other side, correct?
Yuppers. Just the corner will come off the ground, depending on how high the rear may start to come up.
itd feel really unsafe to have 1 stand holding the whole car while you make your way to the other side
For the sake of conversation, the car weighs 4000lbs. That means sitting flat it's 1000lbs a corner (actually a little more in front and a little less in rear, but you get the idea) Once you start jacking up the corner, you are transferring weight to the other three corners. By the time you place your 2 ton jack stand (4000 lbs.) under the corner, you may be supporting 6-800 pounds. Your safe. I would recommend the other suggestion first, but this is totally OK.
The scissor works there because it uses the strength of the pinch weld like an I beam.
(1) so that place definitely isnt safe?
No. It's just sheet metal. It obviously holds, but it's not made to support the car. If the car ever fell off the jack onto the stand it could very easily deform the panel
i was weary about the frame rail cuz it feels kinda soft; you can also hear some 'hollowness' between 7:00-7:06. i havent the guts to try it yet. (2)but, just to make sure, thats where i SHOULD be putting the stands and in that manner (refering to 7:05 where the Yshaped stick is perpendicular to the rail)?
It probably felt soft due to the rubberized protective undercoating. Not to confuse you, it is actually hollow, but its rectangle tube stock (steel). Very very strong. It's the frame of the car, the foundation and structural strength of the car. Completely appropriate safe place to support the vehicle
as for the 2x4 jackup method, ive driven my car up a 1" think piece of wood and my jack still wouldnt fit underneath. guess ill try 2?
A 2x4 is 1.5 inches thick. May work over the 1" board.
as for the framreail jackup method, once ive lifted 1 side of the car, you would proceed to place a stand under the rail and proceed to the other side, correct?
Yuppers. Just the corner will come off the ground, depending on how high the rear may start to come up.
itd feel really unsafe to have 1 stand holding the whole car while you make your way to the other side
For the sake of conversation, the car weighs 4000lbs. That means sitting flat it's 1000lbs a corner (actually a little more in front and a little less in rear, but you get the idea) Once you start jacking up the corner, you are transferring weight to the other three corners. By the time you place your 2 ton jack stand (4000 lbs.) under the corner, you may be supporting 6-800 pounds. Your safe. I would recommend the other suggestion first, but this is totally OK.
12-22-2011 | 06:41 AM
#9
12-23-2011 | 01:07 AM
#11
12-23-2011 | 01:15 AM
#12
Yes. When jacking up the back, put the jack right underneath the differential, or "pumpkin" (slang automotive term). It's the large circular thing in between your back wheels. Should have a bunch of bolts going around the edge. After you jack it up, slide some jack stands under the FRAME.
Last edited by jujubii; 12-23-2011 at 01:15 AM. Reason: grammar
12-28-2011 | 08:22 PM
#13
Yes. When jacking up the back, put the jack right underneath the differential, or "pumpkin" (slang automotive term). It's the large circular thing in between your back wheels. Should have a bunch of bolts going around the edge. After you jack it up, slide some jack stands under the FRAME.
btw... this is the frame rail youre talking abotu right?
