So...I just bought a skinning starter kit from carbonmods.
Carbon fibre skinning kit - cover / wrap your own parts in carbon fiber - Carbon Mods
They have great instructions on the website and my first project is skinning my chrome spoiler(chickened out and did door handles first) in CF.
Will update you guys once I receive the kit. DIY on its way when I get a chance to start skinning!

DIY START
Overview of the kit:
It includes:
epoxy base, top and hardner (all smells really bad...)
a roll of CF twin twill pro finish
sandpapers of progressing grits
polishing compounds
cups, gloves, brushes and stirring sticks


Step 1: Taking it off
Taking it off was quite intuitive. The handles to attached by tabs. Just pry it off starting from the bottom with a taped up screwdriver. There is actually a slot on the side towards the bottom for you to insert the screwdriver.

Step 2: Sanding down the object.
Although our door handle might feel plastic-y, It is actually coated aluminum.
I sanded it down so the base primer layer will attach better.
Half way sanded:

Fully sanded(just until all the paint is gone): Looks kinda like 08-09 Washi trim lol ...jk


Step 3: Mixing the base coat
2 part base epoxy + 1 part hardner (measure with kitchen scale)
The ratio is extremely important. If you put too much hardner, and the base coat will not be tacky and the CF will not stick.
You need pour less than you might think, I poured 3 times as much as I needed the first time.
Mix thoroughly with the stick, for 1 minute.


Step 4: Apply base coat mixture
Apply thin, even layer of base coat. Allow to dry under room temp, for 3-4 hours. mines not that even... but uneven base coat should be fine lol...


Step 5: Apply the CF wrap.
Tape the CF wrap around the edges and whereever you want to make a cut. This is to prevent fiber from falling off.

Start from center. If the base coat was mixed and applied right, the CF should be sticking to the base coat. If the CF does not stick, I would suggest sanding your base coat down and apply a new layer.
Once the CF is wrapped for the most part, start cutting off the excess and taping them to the back of the object.

Step 6: Apply first clear coat.
First clear coat should be thin. Doesn't have to be bubble-free but bubbles should be kept to a minimum. Allow to cure overnight.



Step 7: Apply subquent layers of clears.
After last clear coat has cured. Sand it down with 240 grit sandpaper so it is smooth to touch/flat. Wipe off the particles of clears with a wet towel. Apply another layer a coat on top of that.
Here is a picture of the 3rd clear coat (wet)


Step 8: Sanding down again.
Once the clear coat layer is dry, we may start the sanding process. I did all the sanding wet. I started with 120 grits, then 240, 400, 800, and 1200. For each grit, I sanded every surface for 30 seconds each. Concentrate on a small area at a time and make sure you cover everything. If you sand wet, you will see the water turning blackish. Once you finishes with 1200 grit and dry it. The object should have a matte look. Sorry no pics.

Step 9: Cleaning up the back.
Remember we taped the extra CFs on the back of the object. Well, by now they are probably hard as rock due to some clear coat might ooze into the back. If you don't clean it up, it will not fit back into the handle. For this part, I had 2 tools. a powerful scissor and a Dremel 200 with a swirly cutting tip.


I STRONGLY suggest wearing a mask and goggle for this. The carbon + epoxy powder is not something you wanna be sniffing in.
Be careful not to cut off the tabs on the handle. When you dremel the back, trim the side down until you see the shiny silvery aluminum. Only then will you be able to fit the handle back on.

Step 10: Final polishing
After you try fitting the handles back in, we can now do final polishing. I used a PorterCable and the white lake country pad + polishing compound to give it a whirl.

I suggest having 2 people to do this job. One to hold the PorterCable upside down, one to hold the handle.
For 2nd round of polishing, I used blue lake country pad + plasti-X. This will get the final product to the shine you see on this photo. If anyone knows any finer polish, please post here and I will try doing a 3rd polish.


The project is definitely harder than I thought. Lots of rooms for error. Even the door handles I believe is quite a complicated geometry for beginner. Something shapes I would suggest to start with are side mirrors.*
Let me know if you guys have any questions!

Reference: Reservoir of pictures
http://db.tt/9m5Neq4m

 

good luck!

I watched theire video a few weeks ago. I dont think I have the patience for it.

 

Good luck man post the results!

 

if you've got the patience then it seems like a great option. Don't forget to post up once you're done.

 

+ !

 

Overview of the kit:
It includes:
epoxy base, top and hardner (all smells really bad...)
a roll of CF twin twill pro finish
sandpapers of progressing grits
polishing compounds
cups, gloves, brushes and stirring sticks



I also bought a sample pack just for fun.

 

Alright, my original intent was to CF the grill, but the shape is quite complicated so I thought I should start with something simpler.
So I thought about doing the OEM spoiler(chrome one), then I'm afraid I will mess the top coat up, it could look cloudy or has bubbles in them.
So I finally decided to do the door handles. It is a small piece, simple geometry, in a dark place, and cheaply (relatively speaking) replaceable.

Step 1: Taking it off
Taking it off was quite intuitive. The handles to attached by tabs. Just pry it off starting from the bottom with a taped up screwdriver. Always pry on the bottom of the handle, therefore, even though if you mess up.. you wont' see the damage.

Step 2: Sanding the handle.
Although our door handle might feel plastic-y, It is actually coated aluminum.
I sanded it down so the base primer layer will attach better.
Half way sanded:

Fully sanded(just until all the paint is gone): Looks kinda like 08-09 Washi trim lol ...jk


Step 3: Mixing the base coat
2 part base epoxy + 1 part hardner (measure with kitchen scale)
The ratio is extremely important. If you put too much hardner, and the base coat will not be tacky and the CF will not stick.
You need pour less than you might think, I poured 3 times as much as I needed the first time.
Mix thoroughly with the stick, for 1 minute.

Step 4: Apply base coat mixture
Apply thin, even layer of base coat. Allow to dry under room temp, for 3-4 hours. mines not that even... but uneven base coat should be fine lol...

 

Nice.. Do you have any better pics?

 

This is awesome. Keep the pics coming. I would love to do the rear lip and mirrors with this method.

 

Step 5: Apply the CF wrap.
Tape the CF wrap around the edges and whereever you want to make a cut. This is to prevent fiber from falling off.

Start from center. If the base coat was mixed and applied right, the CF should be sticking to the base coat. If the CF does not stick, I would suggest sanding your base coat down and apply a new layer.
Once the CF is wrapped for the most part, start cutting off the excess and taping them to the back of the object.


Step 6: Apply first clear coat.
First clear coat should be thin. Doesn't have to be bubble-free but bubbles should be kept to a minimum. Allow to cure overnight.

 

Good job. I used to do this. Even have a vacuum system + bags. The trick is practice and a lot of patience. The downside is, if you mess up, then that piece is done for. Definitely 10 times harder than it looks, especially when it comes to more difficult contours.

Also may require wet sand + clear coat to have the surface to be smooth and shiny.
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I think the vacuum system is what they call resin infusion? which is actually CF molding.. Good thing mine is just skinning =]
I am def going to wet+dry sanding up to 3000... then polish. I just hope my many layers of clear coat doesn't trap tiny bubbles under them.

 

Lookin good from what I've seen so far. Good luck!

 

Step 7: Apply subquent layers of clears.
After last clear coat has cured. Sand it down with 240 grit sandpaper so it is smooth to touch/flat. Wipe off the particles of clears with a wet towel. Apply another layer a coat on top of that.
Here is a picture of the 3rd clear coat (wet)

 

Thanks guys for your support. Please leave more comments as the project proceed along. If the result turns out good for these door handles, then I will move on to the spoiler next =D.