DIY: Clutch Fix #2 - Oh what a feeling :)
06-06-2011, 03:57 AM
#77
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the only complaint I have is that now the time I can engage/disengage the clutch feels much shorter than the time it takes to shift gears... so I guess the next thing I get will be a short shifter so I can be more in sync
06-06-2011, 06:19 PM
#80
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idk maybe. But I still don't like the distance I have to shift lol... I may have been spoiled by my Civic's short shifter, which combined with the stock clutch stiffness/travel was a perfect feeling.
07-11-2011, 05:38 PM
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I returned my lease without putting the springs back on. They do an inspection on your car before you return your lease. With me, they didn't check the clutch so they didn't charge me for it. I also kept all the floor mats and trunk mat cause the inspector said I can keep them.
09-28-2011, 05:34 PM
#87
Hi all,
Well, my new to me '08 6MT, like so many others here have stated, embarrassed me so many times that I was even beginning to doubt that I knew how to drive a MT vehicle. I have owned GM's, Fords, Hondas and Porsches with manual trannys and NEVER had such an issue with the rough, jerky, no-feel clutch like this G has.
So after reading all the DIY's and just about every post that has ever been made on this great site, I finally decided to try the "fix #2" spring removal. I haven't driven it yet, will do so later this evening. But I can certainly tell the clutch feel is much more like all those other cars I used to drive so smoothly! It is very linear now, not two springs fighting against each other to try for a numb, soft feeling pedal.
If this fix does increase the felt pedal pressure, it is so slight, in my car at least, I don't feel it. The Infiniti pressure plate springs are not bad at all, nothing like some of my past big V-8 muscle cars with HD clutches! I am POSITIVE I will like this setup much better than stock. My wife could even drive this clutch now, as she did great with the Honda Civic clutch.
Crap...I just remembered, I wasn't going to mod anything on this car!.!.! Oh well, this is more of a fix than a mod..IMO!!!
Many thanks to the OP or whoever came up with this fix...
Take care,
JJ
EDIT: Well, after driving, I can tell you that my spring assembly WILL NOT be going back in. What a huge difference...for the better..
JJ
Well, my new to me '08 6MT, like so many others here have stated, embarrassed me so many times that I was even beginning to doubt that I knew how to drive a MT vehicle. I have owned GM's, Fords, Hondas and Porsches with manual trannys and NEVER had such an issue with the rough, jerky, no-feel clutch like this G has.
So after reading all the DIY's and just about every post that has ever been made on this great site, I finally decided to try the "fix #2" spring removal. I haven't driven it yet, will do so later this evening. But I can certainly tell the clutch feel is much more like all those other cars I used to drive so smoothly! It is very linear now, not two springs fighting against each other to try for a numb, soft feeling pedal.
If this fix does increase the felt pedal pressure, it is so slight, in my car at least, I don't feel it. The Infiniti pressure plate springs are not bad at all, nothing like some of my past big V-8 muscle cars with HD clutches! I am POSITIVE I will like this setup much better than stock. My wife could even drive this clutch now, as she did great with the Honda Civic clutch.
Crap...I just remembered, I wasn't going to mod anything on this car!.!.! Oh well, this is more of a fix than a mod..IMO!!!
Many thanks to the OP or whoever came up with this fix...
Take care,
JJ
EDIT: Well, after driving, I can tell you that my spring assembly WILL NOT be going back in. What a huge difference...for the better..
JJ
Last edited by jjgi5150; 09-30-2011 at 09:16 AM.
10-24-2011, 10:20 PM
#88
Can you folks that have done this mod some years back chime in? Any clutch issues? Burned out clutches? Any feedback on clutch feel on the 2012's (sedan or coupe?)
From what i've read on here and g35, clutch action can be described as follows.
_ 3) Pedal all the way up position with spring installed (clutch fully engaged)
|
|
- 2) Pedal all the way up position without spring (clutch still fully engaged), end of friction zone
|
- 1.5) start of friction zone
|
|
|
- 1) Pedal all the way to the floor.
In essence, the clutch is fully engaged when at position #2, however, because of design, there is the distance between #2 and #3 as free play. With the spring in place, this distance is taken up by the spring force, and pedal returns back to this location (#3) anytime your foot is not on it. Once the spring is removed, there's nothing forcing it back to #3, so it comes to rest at #2 instead. However, if you move it by hand, the pedal will have more noticeable free play in it. A certain amount of free play is required to ensure the clutch is fully engaged (full pressure of the pressure plate). By having the spring in place, position #1.5 (start of friction zone) is more difficult to feel.
From what i've read on here and g35, clutch action can be described as follows.
_ 3) Pedal all the way up position with spring installed (clutch fully engaged)
|
|
- 2) Pedal all the way up position without spring (clutch still fully engaged), end of friction zone
|
- 1.5) start of friction zone
|
|
|
- 1) Pedal all the way to the floor.
In essence, the clutch is fully engaged when at position #2, however, because of design, there is the distance between #2 and #3 as free play. With the spring in place, this distance is taken up by the spring force, and pedal returns back to this location (#3) anytime your foot is not on it. Once the spring is removed, there's nothing forcing it back to #3, so it comes to rest at #2 instead. However, if you move it by hand, the pedal will have more noticeable free play in it. A certain amount of free play is required to ensure the clutch is fully engaged (full pressure of the pressure plate). By having the spring in place, position #1.5 (start of friction zone) is more difficult to feel.
12-17-2011, 02:40 AM
#89
Bump
Any comments to the post above? A lighter spring should definitely ensure the pedal returns fully to the top, while not providing so much assist as to mask the clutch feel.
I was reading on some of the corvette boards that removal is ill advised because the last mm or so of pedal opens a compensation port in the clutch master cyl.
Anyone removed their clutch assist spring? - Z06Vette.com - Corvette Z06 Forum
If you do further research, the spring on the corvette pedal is nothing like the spring set up in the G. It's a much smaller spring, likely comparable to the small spring present in our implementation.
C6 spring on left, c5 on right (notice it's smaller)
From this thread - if you read it thoroughly, c6 owners complain of the same clutch vagueness...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...ving-help.html
Any comments to the post above? A lighter spring should definitely ensure the pedal returns fully to the top, while not providing so much assist as to mask the clutch feel.
I was reading on some of the corvette boards that removal is ill advised because the last mm or so of pedal opens a compensation port in the clutch master cyl.
Anyone removed their clutch assist spring? - Z06Vette.com - Corvette Z06 Forum
GM did not write the following TSB for no reason but a rash of clutch failures where the spring was found taken out on purpose by the Corvette owner
PIP3821B: Removal Of The Clutch Over Center Spring - keywords cylinder hydraulic master pedal - (Apr 15, 2008)
Subject: Removal of the Clutch Over Center Spring
Models: 1997-2008 Chevrolet C5/C6 Corvette
1997-2008 Chevrolet C6 Corvette Equipped with a Manual Transmission
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern:
It appears that some Corvette owners are removing or disconnecting the clutch over center spring on their vehicles.
This is not a recommended practice and customers should be advised of the implications of such an action.
Recommendation/Instructions:
The clutch master cylinder has a compensation port that is positioned within 1 MM of the top of the stroke.
The compensation port allows internal pressure in the clutch hydraulic system to be exhausted into the master cylinder and also provides for system refill as the clutch disc wears.
One purpose of the over center spring is to return the clutch pedal to the very top of the stroke to expose the compensation port.
The second purpose of the spring is to provide for the designed clutch pedal feel.
Removing or disconnecting the spring may allow the clutch pedal to hang in an at rest position with the piston short of the compensation port.
If the internal pressure is not exhausted the CSC may get stroked too far and a clutch hydraulic system failure may result.
The C5 clutch hydraulic systems were built by AP.
The C6 systems were manufactured by FTE.
Also, the pedal must be in the full up position, with the compensation port exposed, to bleed properly.
Anytime a dealer gets a hydraulic system complaint, the tech should inspect to insure that the spring is in place and properly connected.
If not then fix is not under warranty
Related customer complaints might include poor shift performance, improper clutch release or transmission synchronizer damage
PIP3821B: Removal Of The Clutch Over Center Spring - keywords cylinder hydraulic master pedal - (Apr 15, 2008)
Subject: Removal of the Clutch Over Center Spring
Models: 1997-2008 Chevrolet C5/C6 Corvette
1997-2008 Chevrolet C6 Corvette Equipped with a Manual Transmission
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern:
It appears that some Corvette owners are removing or disconnecting the clutch over center spring on their vehicles.
This is not a recommended practice and customers should be advised of the implications of such an action.
Recommendation/Instructions:
The clutch master cylinder has a compensation port that is positioned within 1 MM of the top of the stroke.
The compensation port allows internal pressure in the clutch hydraulic system to be exhausted into the master cylinder and also provides for system refill as the clutch disc wears.
One purpose of the over center spring is to return the clutch pedal to the very top of the stroke to expose the compensation port.
The second purpose of the spring is to provide for the designed clutch pedal feel.
Removing or disconnecting the spring may allow the clutch pedal to hang in an at rest position with the piston short of the compensation port.
If the internal pressure is not exhausted the CSC may get stroked too far and a clutch hydraulic system failure may result.
The C5 clutch hydraulic systems were built by AP.
The C6 systems were manufactured by FTE.
Also, the pedal must be in the full up position, with the compensation port exposed, to bleed properly.
Anytime a dealer gets a hydraulic system complaint, the tech should inspect to insure that the spring is in place and properly connected.
If not then fix is not under warranty
Related customer complaints might include poor shift performance, improper clutch release or transmission synchronizer damage
C6 spring on left, c5 on right (notice it's smaller)
From this thread - if you read it thoroughly, c6 owners complain of the same clutch vagueness...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...ving-help.html
Last edited by JSolo; 12-17-2011 at 02:50 AM.
12-19-2011, 01:17 PM
#90
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I got a smaller, weaker spring from a member on here (actually discussed further up in the thread) and that gave more feel to the clutch while keeping it relatively close to your #3 position. Maybe you can try that? Actually, the spring itself was the same size, but the thickness of the coils compared to stock were a smaller diameter. Hope that helps