**had this posted on 'Driver for 2nd gen 6MT, it also applies to the G37 6MT.
**

OK guys.....
After playing with spacers & double sided tape to minimize clutch pedal travel. (as per the other fix thread)
I came up with a more mechanically sound fix, that gives you adjustment capabilities.

First off after driving with & loving the R&D spacers for a week;
I took them out for the more permanent fix.
With them out, I went for a short drive...... OMG it was AWFUL!!!!!
I couldn't wait to get the fix done.

Most of the explanation is right on the pics....
But basically I replaced the spacers with threaded stem guides from Home depot.
They're made for furniture/table legs for leveling them.

In addition to being much more mechanically sound,
the BIG benefit to these is adjustment capabilities.
You can get the pedal position EXACTLY where you want it.

Initially I was going to tap a thread into the back plate, but decided it was much easier to just stack a couple of 1/4" fender washers as spacers.
Fender washers are available in various gauges (thickness) but are nominally about .05"

On my car I tried two, but then took one out to get a tad more travel.
With this set up I now LOVE the clutch in my G.
This setup gave me that added adjustment that spacers & D.sided tape couldn't provide.
The clutch is now consistent, time after time after time.

...probably the most tricky part of this mod is drilling the hole in the back plate.
It's hard to get the drill @ 90° to surface, so it is want to walk away.
It is imperative to get a GOOD center punch mark and then start with a small bit.
(the smaller the drill the better as well)

Good luck & enjoy....
This is easily the best mod I've done to the car!!!!

(sorry for the quality of some of these pics, I only had my cell cam at the time)

The parts....


OEM Before.....


Mark the drill hole.....


New stops installed, showing travel....


Bottom of travel showing stops mated to pedal....

 

did you do any thing to the linkage going to the clutch master cylinder? after this mod is the clutch fully engaging and disengaging?

 

This mod has been covered extensively on other forums for nissan Zs and Infiniti Gs. Supposedly someone visually checked that adding a little spacer did not affect clutch engagement and disengagement. You coil just do a speed/rpm test in various gears at high engine speeds to make sure you're not slipping.

Also as long as you don't grind or feel any pull with the clutch out in first with a high rev, you are probably safe on disengagement.

 

YES!!!

Finally something fixes my clutch woes! This worked perfectly for me.

Drilling the hole was a bit of a PITA but once installed, these furniture stoppers worked like a charm. The Lowe's I went to only carried the 1 1/16" size so I used two of those instead. (They still take 1/4-20 nuts.)

I also went with only one washer to space it out just a hair more. Two would have put me out of my comfort zone for clutch slippage. The bracket for my 2011 G37 Sedan was ever so slightly different than the one in the pictures, but the principle is exactly the same. Just mark the area where the clutch stop lands. I went ahead and put my hole in the center of the area instead of offsetting towards the top.

I've done Clutch Mod #2 and while although it helped a bit, this was night and day. 10x more effective than Clutch Mod #2.

 

Seems like no one is trying this cuz of the effort

 

it's not that hard. The original thread from the other forum has alot more feedback from people. when this first came out the old g's and z's used coins wrapped with tape to simulate the product above as a temp.

 

Just as a heads up, one month in and this is still the best mod I've ever done to the car. The 'taping pennies' trick probably would have worked too, but I liked the durability and adjustability of this method more.

Highly worth it!

 

Well looks like another list for things to do this weekend !

 

Be sure to follow the advice about drilling a pilot hole. It makes it much easier. A right angle drill (or chuck adapter) would be golden if you've got one. I didn't have one, so I used a 1/16" bit (actually two, I broke one), a 1/8" bit, and finally a 1/4" bit.

 

I'd like to try a version of this mod, but I'm not handy with a drill and would like to just try it with the double-sided tape first. Could someone tell me how thick each of the stoppers should be. If I were to use coins, how many of each for each stack? I don't want to risk clutch slippage at all, so I'd like to use conservative sizes. Thanks. I drive an '08.

 

I'd go with about 1/4" to 5/16" to start, so maybe four pennies?

Not sure about the double sided tape. The foam kind will have some give to it which may make the feeling a little nebulous when you've got the pedal to the floor. I'd probably try some Gorilla Glue or something to attach it. If you needed to remove it, I'm sure you could pry it off with a flathead screwdriver.

Also, the stacks should be the same size.

 

Just did this with 4 pennies in each stack and attached it with double-sided tape. The cushion of the tape didn't bother me at all. I only have one real concern. Are you guys sure that the stacks need to be the same size? I don't want to damage the little switch by putting too much pressure on it with the clutch fully pressed.

This was probably the better fix out of the two that I've implemented. I think that the quickness and consistency of my shifts now really smooth out the ride. With both of these clutch fixes I think I can finally start to fully enjoy driving my G.

 

Really, as long as the switch gets pressed and lets you start the car, you'll be fine. If for whatever reason its putting a lot of pressure on the switch, I'd remove a penny. No sense in smashing the thing. If it works, go with it.

 

I apologize for rezing this thread. I would answer my own question by looking in the manual if it were not for the fact I am at work. I suppose others who may also be searching could have the same question.

What is the point of this? I understand clutch systems quite well but this 'mod' baffles me. My assumption initially was that the mod was simply augmenting the engagement point for the clutch immobilization switch only (based on the photos). This makes sense to me, not that I understand why anyone would care about having to press the clutch in further only when having to start the car... Then I read, "The clutch is now consistent, time after time after time." - wait what? Another person states that it is 10x more effective that something which actually changes the dynamic of the clutch system... The only thing I can possibly think of is if the car somehow uses the switch for an additional purpose that I am not aware of.

The clutch master piston is not being affected by this mod so how is the clutch more consistent?

 

I didn't do exactly what this post said to do, but I did something similar. I find that the clutch pedal has a much more definite stop, and that it stops shortly after the clutch is disengaged.

I think this mod is a matter of opinion. If you don't like it, don't do it. If you'll like it, do it.