This DIY is helpful in my install. I just installed my Eibach Springs and Eibach Camber Kits by my self. It's not as bad as people say it is. With the front bolt, you just have to put some extra elbow grease, PB blaster and it'll break loss. Just make sure the socket is all the way in so it doesnt slip and strip the nut. As for the spring compressor, I bought the one from Harbor Freight for 10 bucks and worked like a charm on the Eibachs.

MacPherson Strut Coil Spring Compressor Set

Rear Spring install took about 20 minutes top. took longer to raise the car than actually installing the springs. At least install the rear, and let the shop install the front if you want to save some money.

Take your time,be patient and it can be done by one person.

 

hi i have the same spring compressor from harbor freight, too. How did you get the compressor on the tightly wound, upper part of the springs??? I can only make it fit near the bottom, where it's not as wound so tightly.

 

That's a good question- I sure couldn't figure it out. For $20 having a local shop do it for me and save hours of dinking with spring compressors was well worth it.

 

Just copy the picture in the first page where to place the compressor. Your gana need a long socket wrench to get more levarage and someone to hold the spring so it doesnt move while u compress the spring. Thats how I did it. Doesnt take too long.

 

damn... where do ppl keep finding these shops that give you *reasonable* prices to do this stuff for you??? I live in ATL, GA, and I literally called up/went to 10 different shops (ranging from small independent to large chains like Meineke) and they all want to gouge me $80+ WTF

anyway I ended up hooking one of the ends of the compressor at the top end of the spring. When you put the top plate on, the rubber will press the compressor onto the spring. But, it's not that bad - you can still get the compressor out by some strategic leveraging. Will be posting an addendum to this spring install soon.

 

Just installed some B&G S2 springs w/ front and rear camber kits today. The rear toe bolt slot expansion was really the only thing that was a bit of a PITA.
Big thanks out to dnieto82 for his 21mm open wrench tip to hold behind the 120ft lb "strut-nut". I just balsted it w/ PB blast and let it soak while I was working on removing my old upper control arms. Just a 2 ft breaker bar to crack-em.
The O'Reilly spring compressor worked great, not scary at all, but I sure wouldn't want to try tightening that contraption w/ hand tools. Simple w/ an air impact driver. I actually found working on the rear springs and arms to be more trouble than the fronts, it's nice to be able to get to everything in the front without having to crawl under your car.

At any rate, thanks to the OPs DIY and those other folks' helpful tips along the way. Definitely saved me a bunch of money and cool to gain a better understanding of our Gs suspensions.

 

Subscribed...

 

Thinking about picking up the cordless impact from Harbor Freight Tool to unbolt the middle bolt that everyone is having problems with. Has anyone tried this one? $109.99 includes battery and charger.

http://www.harborfreight.com/18-volt...nch-67845.html

 

most likely, that's not going to work.
This one didn't work: 1/2" Twin Hammer Air Impact Wrench
425 ft-lb torque:

Needed this one to get the job done:
1/2" Professional Air Impact Wrench

 

I have this one. It's actually pretty good and it has never failed to remove anything I've used it on. I can recommend it. The other 1/2" air impact you linked to is mostly garbage. The battery powered one will not do it either, but it might be good to have for smaller jobs requiring less torque because of the cordless/no air required convenience. I'm considering getting one when I get a coupon for it again.

Make sure you have an adequate compressor for it, it's kind of an air hog.

 

FWIW, i managed to work on mine successfully (after several tries) with this set-up. The main culprit was the 1/4" hose that came with the compressor. Swapped it out with a 1/2" and voila! It's like i just got a more powerful gun in the process.

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Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more

I also have this, but it didn't make a dent the first time i loosened the bolts -- although it works fine now, since the bolts are no longer "rusted in" so to speak. It is useful for loosening bolts that are tightened no more than 90 or so ft. lbs. on a more regular basis.

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I plan on installing the rears myself. Before removing the bolt, should a jack be placed under the arm to keep the springs from flying out once the bolt is removed? I'm assuming so...that way once the bolt is removed, you lower the jack in order to slowly lower the arm and remove the spring

 

That's not necessary at all on the rear, but you can if you like. There is very little spring preload with the suspension unladen. It won't drop down more than an inch or two at most and the spring will definitely not come out of place. After removing the bolt you'll have to still pull down on the lower arm to get the spring out becasue the inner bolt holding the lower arm is still tight and won't allow the disconnected outer end to pivot freely.

I've done a lot of suspensions on the G.

 

Phew! that's good to know! All I could picture in my mind was the spring unloading quickly and either catching/crushing my hand or shooting out and hitting me in the face lol

Thanks...I appreciate the help

 

The fronts on the other hand will definitely kill you without a spring compressor.