Stillen Grounding Kit DIY
06-28-2008, 03:19 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Stillen Grounding Kit DIY
I am posting this to help people save their money. If your not experienced with these stuff... It might take about an hour because thats how long it took me and understand how to make it easier to install.
Tools
10mm
(Engine cover and most of the bolts)
12mm
(G bolt)
Before you do anything leave both doors open because you need to reset your window setting at the end.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/showthr...=182059&page=2
refer too #25 by EZDozzit
Unscrew (5)bolts on the engine cover and take off the cover.
Look inside the battery and you will see a block box right in front of the battery. Try to unclip it and put the box to the side (It wont disconnect! just put it aside so you get more room to work with).
First you need to discharge the negative terminal of the battery.
(this will be really painful to take off... the manufactor jacked up the tip so the screw wont come off. Just take your time and try to take it off because IT WILL COME OFF!
)
Look for 4 point cable (Sliver or Red). Find the longest side and that will be for point A. After you attach the cable to point A put the bolt STILLEN gave you (do not connect to the battery yet!)
A to B
NowThe harness is surrounded by a grommet; the cable can be squeezed through here.
(Soon with pics)
Unscrew the bolt with 10mm.
Now connect the second end to point B.
After attaching point B take the cable underneath the intake and attach the third point to C. (10mm)
Before you head towards point D and E detach the container. (10mm)
(This will allow you to have more room to work with point D and E)
Finally attach the last end to point D. Do not get confussed. ITS THE LOWER ONE ON THE RIGHT. (10mm)
After attaching point D. Take out a single cable line and attach that to point E. (10mm)
Now put the container back on after you attached point D and E
From E to F make sure your cable go under the intake.
Next to F and I there is another black box blocking it. Unclip it and put that to aside. (more room to work with...) F IS LEFT I IS RIGHT!
Now attach the last end to F. (10mm)
Take out your last cable and look for shortest side. That will be heading to point G (12mm) RIGHT SIDE NOT LEFT!
G to H make sure your cable go under the intake again. Attach the second end to point H. (10mm)
H to I. I is right next to F (10mm)
Final
connect your negative terminal back and your all set
And your done
Put your engine cover back on and your good to go for test drive 
If you need more pics just leave comments and Ill keep you guys updated!
GO STILLEN
JY
Tools
10mm
(Engine cover and most of the bolts)
12mm
(G bolt)
Before you do anything leave both doors open because you need to reset your window setting at the end.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/showthr...=182059&page=2
refer too #25 by EZDozzit
Unscrew (5)bolts on the engine cover and take off the cover.
Look inside the battery and you will see a block box right in front of the battery. Try to unclip it and put the box to the side (It wont disconnect! just put it aside so you get more room to work with).
First you need to discharge the negative terminal of the battery.
(this will be really painful to take off... the manufactor jacked up the tip so the screw wont come off. Just take your time and try to take it off because IT WILL COME OFF!
)Look for 4 point cable (Sliver or Red). Find the longest side and that will be for point A. After you attach the cable to point A put the bolt STILLEN gave you (do not connect to the battery yet!)
A to B
NowThe harness is surrounded by a grommet; the cable can be squeezed through here.
(Soon with pics)
Unscrew the bolt with 10mm.
Now connect the second end to point B.
After attaching point B take the cable underneath the intake and attach the third point to C. (10mm)
Before you head towards point D and E detach the container. (10mm)
(This will allow you to have more room to work with point D and E)
Finally attach the last end to point D. Do not get confussed. ITS THE LOWER ONE ON THE RIGHT. (10mm)
After attaching point D. Take out a single cable line and attach that to point E. (10mm)
Now put the container back on after you attached point D and E
From E to F make sure your cable go under the intake.
Next to F and I there is another black box blocking it. Unclip it and put that to aside. (more room to work with...) F IS LEFT I IS RIGHT!
Now attach the last end to F. (10mm)
Take out your last cable and look for shortest side. That will be heading to point G (12mm) RIGHT SIDE NOT LEFT!
G to H make sure your cable go under the intake again. Attach the second end to point H. (10mm)
H to I. I is right next to F (10mm)
Final
connect your negative terminal back and your all set
And your done
Put your engine cover back on and your good to go for test drive If you need more pics just leave comments and Ill keep you guys updated!
GO STILLEN
JY
Last edited by Skyline-LEXY; 06-28-2008 at 03:27 AM.
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Turbine777 (04-27-2021)
06-28-2008, 11:43 AM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
After the MOD there is a BIG difference.
1. NO lag on 5AT (DS or Mannual)
2. Slight whp gain IMO
3. A LOT better acceleration at LOW RMMs
4. LOOKS GREAT
RECOMMAND MOD FOR ALL 5AT
IMO Red look A LOT better ^^
If you need more detail answers ask Kyle. He's in this forum. (Kyle@Stillen)
GO STILLEN
JY
1. NO lag on 5AT (DS or Mannual)
2. Slight whp gain IMO
3. A LOT better acceleration at LOW RMMs
4. LOOKS GREAT
RECOMMAND MOD FOR ALL 5AT
IMO Red look A LOT better ^^
If you need more detail answers ask Kyle. He's in this forum. (Kyle@Stillen)
GO STILLEN
JY
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07-01-2008, 01:31 AM
#10
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ughhh hate anything that has to do with touching the battery anyone know how much this would cost at a shop?
- baddddddddddddd experiences with batterys and wrenches
- baddddddddddddd experiences with batterys and wrenches
07-01-2008, 04:09 PM
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Umm Kyle from Stillen said it will take roughly 30min to do from a shop. So I am guessing 1 hr is 100$ so... 50$ for G' kit installation?? It really depends how much the shop is charging per hour.
Est $50
JY
Est $50
JY
07-03-2008, 10:09 PM
#14
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Join Date: Oct 2007
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After the MOD there is a BIG difference.
1. NO lag on 5AT (DS or Mannual)
2. Slight whp gain IMO
3. A LOT better acceleration at LOW RMMs
4. LOOKS GREAT
RECOMMAND MOD FOR ALL 5AT
IMO Red look A LOT better ^^
If you need more detail answers ask Kyle. He's in this forum. (Kyle@Stillen)
GO STILLEN
JY
1. NO lag on 5AT (DS or Mannual)
2. Slight whp gain IMO
3. A LOT better acceleration at LOW RMMs
4. LOOKS GREAT
RECOMMAND MOD FOR ALL 5AT
IMO Red look A LOT better ^^
If you need more detail answers ask Kyle. He's in this forum. (Kyle@Stillen)
GO STILLEN
JY