Black our Grill DIY Guide
08-09-2008, 01:55 PM
#39
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Plus we figured out on NICO that he doesn't really have a G37. He posts pictures off the internet and claims it as his car. The idiot posted someone's car on the forum and got called out. He also posted a picture from a magazine photo shoot and said it was a picture he took of his car.
08-09-2008, 06:11 PM
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I called him out on the 6mt forums for using someone elses pictures from nicoclub. I always pictured him looking like jamie Kennedy from malibus most wanted givin what he would type in the threads.
08-10-2008, 01:40 AM
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CtK,
I finally finished painting my grill matte black, against a black obsidian car. I only got a few pics up at http://rogertan.smugmug.com/gallery/...0_XTiVX#P-2-15.
After a number of attempts at this thing, I should share out some tips and lessons I picked up along the way. Keep in mind that I had very little painting experience prior to this, so this may only apply to the n00bs like me:
1. Don't use a low grit sandpaper like 100. The point isn't to strip off the chrome covering down to the plastic, but rather, provide a porous-enough surface for the primer to bond to. Use something like 320, or a scrubbing pad.
2. If you do take off too much, fill up holes/scratches/whatever with Bondo. Even if it looks somewhat okay with primer, the defects become magnified once the paint goes on. It's better to err on applying too much bondo (fumes aside) and sanding it down, than applying too little.
3. It pays to wait between coats. Some paint can instructions say something that all coats must go on within one hour, leading one to rush the job. I don't know if that's 100% necessary, but I found that if I was more patient between coats (a few hours at least), I was much less likely to get runs or uneven applications.
4. Try to hold the can upright and prop up the grill while painting. I wrote on this thread earlier about the random splotches I got. I'm convinced a few of the times this occurred was because the spray paint can was shooting out propellant, instead of paint, thereby affecting following applications done soon thereafter. This was probably due to holding the can at an odd angle.
5. For matte, don't bother wetsanding or using rubbing compound before clearcoat. Once you wetsand, you'll introduce some areas that aren't blended in perfectly, forcing you to use rubbing compound to smooth it out. Well, that basically means you polish the paint, thereby negating the beautiful matte effect.
6. For matte, get a matte clearcoat. Krylon makes one called Crystal Clear Acrylic or something, and it comes in Glossy, Satin, and Matte. I used matte, and it looks perfect for my purposes. I read in various places online that you can wetsand a glossy clearcoat to get a matte one, but I didn't feel it was worth the extra effort and potential risk, hence, the Krylon. It goes on a little thicker than the duplicolors, but hopefully after applying the primer and basecoats, you'll be experienced enough to avoid runs in the clear coat.
Hope this helps everyone interested in doing this.
Good luck,
Roger
I finally finished painting my grill matte black, against a black obsidian car. I only got a few pics up at http://rogertan.smugmug.com/gallery/...0_XTiVX#P-2-15.
After a number of attempts at this thing, I should share out some tips and lessons I picked up along the way. Keep in mind that I had very little painting experience prior to this, so this may only apply to the n00bs like me:
1. Don't use a low grit sandpaper like 100. The point isn't to strip off the chrome covering down to the plastic, but rather, provide a porous-enough surface for the primer to bond to. Use something like 320, or a scrubbing pad.
2. If you do take off too much, fill up holes/scratches/whatever with Bondo. Even if it looks somewhat okay with primer, the defects become magnified once the paint goes on. It's better to err on applying too much bondo (fumes aside) and sanding it down, than applying too little.
3. It pays to wait between coats. Some paint can instructions say something that all coats must go on within one hour, leading one to rush the job. I don't know if that's 100% necessary, but I found that if I was more patient between coats (a few hours at least), I was much less likely to get runs or uneven applications.
4. Try to hold the can upright and prop up the grill while painting. I wrote on this thread earlier about the random splotches I got. I'm convinced a few of the times this occurred was because the spray paint can was shooting out propellant, instead of paint, thereby affecting following applications done soon thereafter. This was probably due to holding the can at an odd angle.
5. For matte, don't bother wetsanding or using rubbing compound before clearcoat. Once you wetsand, you'll introduce some areas that aren't blended in perfectly, forcing you to use rubbing compound to smooth it out. Well, that basically means you polish the paint, thereby negating the beautiful matte effect.
6. For matte, get a matte clearcoat. Krylon makes one called Crystal Clear Acrylic or something, and it comes in Glossy, Satin, and Matte. I used matte, and it looks perfect for my purposes. I read in various places online that you can wetsand a glossy clearcoat to get a matte one, but I didn't feel it was worth the extra effort and potential risk, hence, the Krylon. It goes on a little thicker than the duplicolors, but hopefully after applying the primer and basecoats, you'll be experienced enough to avoid runs in the clear coat.
Hope this helps everyone interested in doing this.
Good luck,
Roger