leather is Cracking need help!
#1
leather is Cracking need help!
Hello All,
What can I do to prevent my leather from cracking? I clean and condition my seats 3-4x a year with lexol. Yet it is still cracking. Any advice would help, I have also searched and found a few threads, but I do what everyone says. Yet my seats are still cracking, am I doing something wrong that I may not be aware of?
What can I do to prevent my leather from cracking? I clean and condition my seats 3-4x a year with lexol. Yet it is still cracking. Any advice would help, I have also searched and found a few threads, but I do what everyone says. Yet my seats are still cracking, am I doing something wrong that I may not be aware of?
#4
Registered User
Creases or Wrinkle’s - similar to a paints clear coat, upholstery urethane is classified as a semi-solid permeable membrane, being a thermosetting polymer (elastomers) it remains flexible while retaining its tensile strength, to enable it to expand and contract, following the temperature fluctuations (elasticity) of the substrate and is therefore subject to show wrinkle’s. These can be lessened by using a damp (microwave heated) towel, which will cause the urethane to contract slightly.
The foam, leather hide and its urethane covering are subjected to compression (the weight applied by people sitting on them) which causes them the stretch, which in turn produces creases (wrinkles). If they become excessive it may mean that the foam is compressed to the point it will no longer ‘rebound’ and should therefore be replaced
Modern automotive leather upholstery use a completely different tanning processes and finishing system, utilizing advanced polymers and chemicals (urethane doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation) and as a consequence they do not need to be treated with aftercare products containing oils or proteins.
Oils and soft plastics (polymers, acrylics and urethanes) are not compatible; repeated application on to finished leather can cause the break-down of cross-linking and binding agents. Oil accelerates the deterioration of urethane over time. After extended use the condition of the finished leathers pigmentation (colour) will be removed by the oil causing the urethane protection to become delaminated
“Proper Finished Leather Cleaning and Care” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...ning-care.html
The foam, leather hide and its urethane covering are subjected to compression (the weight applied by people sitting on them) which causes them the stretch, which in turn produces creases (wrinkles). If they become excessive it may mean that the foam is compressed to the point it will no longer ‘rebound’ and should therefore be replaced
Modern automotive leather upholstery use a completely different tanning processes and finishing system, utilizing advanced polymers and chemicals (urethane doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation) and as a consequence they do not need to be treated with aftercare products containing oils or proteins.
Oils and soft plastics (polymers, acrylics and urethanes) are not compatible; repeated application on to finished leather can cause the break-down of cross-linking and binding agents. Oil accelerates the deterioration of urethane over time. After extended use the condition of the finished leathers pigmentation (colour) will be removed by the oil causing the urethane protection to become delaminated
“Proper Finished Leather Cleaning and Care” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...ning-care.html
#7
Registered User
Three Step Leather Care
Unless a Premium Leather option was purchased the type of leather upholstery used by ~ 95% of OEM is a multi stratum covering over the leather hide; the top strata is the surface pigmentation (colour) and an abrasion resistant urethane.
Premium leatherhas a recognizable fragrance that is missing from polyurethane and plastic. Simple cleaning, hydration and protection are the steps that will prolong the life of finished leather.
1. Clean - there are two cleaning-related factors that can cause your leather to wear prematurely. The first is dirt, and the second is oil, combined they become very abrasive, as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear
2. Hydrate – when leather tanner’s talk about conditioning leather they are referring to its moisture content, re-hydration is used to restore or maintain fluid balance (transpiration and evaporation of moisture); not the replenishment or replacement of the fat liquoring, oils and / or waxes.
3. Protect - is essential as it will protect the surface finish, without hindering transpiration, while acting as a sacrificial layer; this way you are not actually cleaning the Leather's original surface, but cleaning from the surface of the protection. It also makes dirt easier to clean off
Ultra violet (UV) protection - 303® Aerospace Protectant will provide invaluable ultra violet (UV) protection against photo degradation (fading); especially in a roadster or convertible vehicle, steering wheel and dashboards
Urethane doesn’t require conditioning; always keep in mind that you’re dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the leather hide itself
“Proper Finished Leather Cleaning and Care” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...ning-care.html
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#8
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Hello All,
What can I do to prevent my leather from cracking? I clean and condition my seats 3-4x a year with lexol. Yet it is still cracking. Any advice would help, I have also searched and found a few threads, but I do what everyone says. Yet my seats are still cracking, am I doing something wrong that I may not be aware of?
What can I do to prevent my leather from cracking? I clean and condition my seats 3-4x a year with lexol. Yet it is still cracking. Any advice would help, I have also searched and found a few threads, but I do what everyone says. Yet my seats are still cracking, am I doing something wrong that I may not be aware of?
Now I finally found and bought Lexol a few days ago because I've heard/read nothing but good things about it here. Now I'm hesitant to use that stuff.
#10
Premier Member
I use Griots leather conditioner. It kept my 2003 G35 leather like brand new and smelling like brand new leather Car stayed outside in the Sun in FL for 9 years. I am using it on my G37 and will continue to do that until I sell it.
Great stuff great smell
Great stuff great smell
#11
Registered User
Why would you need to 'condition' polyurethane (which to all intents and purposes is a plastic) covered leather? Urethane doesn’t require conditioning; always keep in mind that you’re dealing with the finished coating on the leather, which applies to 95% of modern vehicles and not with the leather hide itself
Last edited by TOGWT; 10-28-2012 at 06:12 AM.
#12
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: San Diego, CA
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I wash the seats with soap and water and use a conditioner that the dealer buys from a supplier of auto detail products its worked very good.
I apply the conditioner and let it sit for half hour.
I apply the conditioner and let it sit for half hour.
#13
Registered User
iTrader: (11)
I use poorboys leather stuff since I got my G in June 2008 new. My leather still looks new, she is always garage kept n leather gets conditioner every 2 weeks (this method has worked for me) granted I'm the only driver n my G only has 28,715 miles on it so maybe that's why....