products for stone int
06-15-2011, 06:03 AM
#5
Registered User
CliffNotes® Version - simple cleaning and protection steps that will prolong the life of finished leather. The type of leather upholstery used by 95% of OEM is a multi strata covering over the leather hide; pigmentation (colour) and an abrasion resistant urethane. Finished leather s only requirement is to be kept clean and protected, urethane doesn’t require conditioning
An acrylic and polyurethane resin binder system is used to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather, then two or three aqueous (water- based) pigmented base coat applications, and then a clear aqueous (water- based) top coat is applied, which usually includes additives to give it a soft feel and abrasion resistance as well as a limited amount of ‘slide’ to assist in entering and exiting the vehicle as the final stage of the finishing process.
(a) Clean - as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear. Use a aqueous (water- based) foam cleaner (Leather Master™ Foam Cleaner) on ventilated seats
(b) Hydrated - use aqueous (water- based) products that do not contain oils and/or waxes, check the label if they do then don't use them. Clean surfaces with a damp towel.
(c) Protected - is essential as it will protect the surface finish (Leather Master™ - Protection Cream) as a sacrificial layer and makes dirt easier to clean off and an ultra violet protective product (UVR) will preserve the finish.
Leather Master™ - Protection Cream (a Scotchgard™ type product specifically formulated for lather) the polymers penetrate the surface of finished leather and cross-link to form a durable protective film that is breathable and keeps the leather supple. Being aqueous (water- based) it restores moisture to finished leather and provides a protective barrier against every kind of soiling, water, oil, alcohol-based stains and perspiration marks.
This is NOT a conditioner per se but is used to improve and maintain the tactile feel and lustre to ensure the leather remains soft and supple; apply Leather Master™ Soft Touch (ex Soft Vital) and allow to dry for approx 20 minutes, finally using a clean dry micro fibre towel buff to a matte sheen.
The hides used for automobile upholstery are treated with fat liquor and then sealed at the tannery. The only 'conditioning' required for finished leather upholstery is hydration; oil-based products cannot permeate the finish (urethane pigmentation or covering) that is used in 95% plus of modern automobiles
Always keep in mind that you’re dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the leather hide itself
Note: for really soiled finished leather use Leather Master Strong Cleaner (pH 8.5) (A-Aniline / Non-Coated) (P-Protected / Coated) is arguably the most powerful leather cleaner on the market (for regular cleaning this product can be diluted 1:10). The water based formula removes ground in soil and water based stains. It can even remove blue jean transfer with a few light, repeated applications. This product is used exactly the same as the Leather Soft Cleaner, but its action is more intensive due to a greater concentration (twice the amount) of active ingredients. Limit cleaning to 1 – 2 panels to prevent product drying.
An acrylic and polyurethane resin binder system is used to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather, then two or three aqueous (water- based) pigmented base coat applications, and then a clear aqueous (water- based) top coat is applied, which usually includes additives to give it a soft feel and abrasion resistance as well as a limited amount of ‘slide’ to assist in entering and exiting the vehicle as the final stage of the finishing process.
(a) Clean - as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear. Use a aqueous (water- based) foam cleaner (Leather Master™ Foam Cleaner) on ventilated seats
(b) Hydrated - use aqueous (water- based) products that do not contain oils and/or waxes, check the label if they do then don't use them. Clean surfaces with a damp towel.
(c) Protected - is essential as it will protect the surface finish (Leather Master™ - Protection Cream) as a sacrificial layer and makes dirt easier to clean off and an ultra violet protective product (UVR) will preserve the finish.
Leather Master™ - Protection Cream (a Scotchgard™ type product specifically formulated for lather) the polymers penetrate the surface of finished leather and cross-link to form a durable protective film that is breathable and keeps the leather supple. Being aqueous (water- based) it restores moisture to finished leather and provides a protective barrier against every kind of soiling, water, oil, alcohol-based stains and perspiration marks.
This is NOT a conditioner per se but is used to improve and maintain the tactile feel and lustre to ensure the leather remains soft and supple; apply Leather Master™ Soft Touch (ex Soft Vital) and allow to dry for approx 20 minutes, finally using a clean dry micro fibre towel buff to a matte sheen.
The hides used for automobile upholstery are treated with fat liquor and then sealed at the tannery. The only 'conditioning' required for finished leather upholstery is hydration; oil-based products cannot permeate the finish (urethane pigmentation or covering) that is used in 95% plus of modern automobiles
Always keep in mind that you’re dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the leather hide itself
Note: for really soiled finished leather use Leather Master Strong Cleaner (pH 8.5) (A-Aniline / Non-Coated) (P-Protected / Coated) is arguably the most powerful leather cleaner on the market (for regular cleaning this product can be diluted 1:10). The water based formula removes ground in soil and water based stains. It can even remove blue jean transfer with a few light, repeated applications. This product is used exactly the same as the Leather Soft Cleaner, but its action is more intensive due to a greater concentration (twice the amount) of active ingredients. Limit cleaning to 1 – 2 panels to prevent product drying.
07-08-2011, 10:28 AM
#6
I went with the stone interior because I prefer lighter interiors.
The only thing that gets dirty, so far, on my G, is the mats. I use carpet cleaner on them and have sprayed Scotchguard on them. If I ever have to replace the mats, I'll go with a darker color.
The only thing that gets dirty, so far, on my G, is the mats. I use carpet cleaner on them and have sprayed Scotchguard on them. If I ever have to replace the mats, I'll go with a darker color.
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08-18-2011, 02:22 PM
#8
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I got the same interior. I just use the lexol leather cleaner restorer and the Aerospace to clean and restore the black trim. I do this about every other week. I am pretty much the only one in the car most of the time, so it doesn't get very dirty. I just treat it to keep it looking new.
For the mats, get the all weather ones. I took my stock mats and put them in a vacuum sealed bag and sealed them up and put them in my closet. With the all weather ones, I can hose them off if they are really dirty.
For the mats, get the all weather ones. I took my stock mats and put them in a vacuum sealed bag and sealed them up and put them in my closet. With the all weather ones, I can hose them off if they are really dirty.
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