How would I go about fixing these scuff marks?
07-18-2010, 10:59 AM
#16
Something to be careful of if you are going to correct this yourself: The bumper is plastic and the plastic heats up quicker and more easily than the metal parts. Don't get it too hot or you can damage your paint. Even with a PC. Trust me, I know what I'm talking about. Check it periodically by touching it with your hand. If it feels very warm to the touch, let it cool before proceeding so as not to burn the paint. It's less likely to burn if you don't use much pressure, so use light to medium pressure.
07-18-2010, 11:00 AM
#17
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ok, thanks for the advice. I'm not sure if I want to buy all those products at once since adding the 2 products adds close to $70 to the cost.. Maybe i'll try the one product first and see how the results are.
07-18-2010, 11:56 AM
#18
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The police suggested I fix it myself and ask the other driver if he's willing to pay for it. If he says no i can't really do much.
In the end i have to rely on the goodwill of the other guy to get compensation. Somehow, i doubt he'll want to pay anything. How would this work in the US?
In the end i have to rely on the goodwill of the other guy to get compensation. Somehow, i doubt he'll want to pay anything. How would this work in the US?
If he wouldn't pay for the repairs, I would sue the guy in small claims court... That's just me...
07-18-2010, 12:52 PM
#19
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The way I see it if he calls it's because he didn't do it, because if he did he'd just avoid talking to me.
07-18-2010, 01:14 PM
#20
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I'd bring the assh0le to court to teach him a lesson. Have you go to a body-shop or professional detailer to get an estimate? When something like this happen, buying stuff and DIY doesn't count. Get an estimate.
07-18-2010, 01:57 PM
#21
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I'd agree. I would get it professional detail done. And HOPE that fixed the problem. If it doesn't and you need paint work done the cost is just going to go up from there. But like I said, I would want it done RIGHT not DIY (not saying you're not going to do a good job)... And if the guy insists on being a ****, then you can stick it to him in court...
07-18-2010, 02:28 PM
#22
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i asked a bodyshop for an estimate already. We'll see what it might cost. The guy hasn't called yet... if he doesn't is there a way i can find out his phone #? I got his license plate but i doubt the police gives out info to anyone..
07-18-2010, 05:41 PM
#24
I'd ask George.
Judging by the pics, Id use the Megs M105 and then follow it up with M205. I have found the M105 really easy to work with and finishes off pretty nicely once you get your technique down. Once I run out of the Menzerna Power Finish, Im sticking with the M105/M205 combo and keeping the PO85RD as a final polish.
Judging by the pics, Id use the Megs M105 and then follow it up with M205. I have found the M105 really easy to work with and finishes off pretty nicely once you get your technique down. Once I run out of the Menzerna Power Finish, Im sticking with the M105/M205 combo and keeping the PO85RD as a final polish.
07-18-2010, 06:29 PM
#25
I'd ask George.
Judging by the pics, Id use the Megs M105 and then follow it up with M205. I have found the M105 really easy to work with and finishes off pretty nicely once you get your technique down. Once I run out of the Menzerna Power Finish, Im sticking with the M105/M205 combo and keeping the PO85RD as a final polish.
Judging by the pics, Id use the Megs M105 and then follow it up with M205. I have found the M105 really easy to work with and finishes off pretty nicely once you get your technique down. Once I run out of the Menzerna Power Finish, Im sticking with the M105/M205 combo and keeping the PO85RD as a final polish.
07-19-2010, 08:16 AM
#26
I havent used the Power Gloss, so I cant comment on that specifically.
One of my friends cars got scuffed up really good from a shopping cart and I was able to buff it all out using the Megs M105 with an Orange pad and I followed it up with the Menzerna Power Finish PO203S. I thought the M105 was really easy to work with and I followed the technique used on the Detailed Image writeups...... I think its called the Kevin Brown Method or something like that. We did other scratches on their car using just the M105 and decreased pressure as we went on and on and it finished pretty nicely and we didnt need to use the PO203S after it.
Im all about reducing the amount of polishes I need to keep in my garage and after seeing how much cut the M105 had and if you slowly reduce pressure on your last pass how it finishes off, Im planning on replacing the Power Finish when its done with the M205. So while I havent used the power gloss, Im planning on switching over to the Megs line because I think the M105/M205 combo can replace 3 steps with the Menzerna polishes.
However, Its important to emphasize the post you made before about pressure, because to get enough cut out of the M105 to remove the scuff mark, I had to put a good amount of pressure onto the PC and the paint will heat up.
One of my friends cars got scuffed up really good from a shopping cart and I was able to buff it all out using the Megs M105 with an Orange pad and I followed it up with the Menzerna Power Finish PO203S. I thought the M105 was really easy to work with and I followed the technique used on the Detailed Image writeups...... I think its called the Kevin Brown Method or something like that. We did other scratches on their car using just the M105 and decreased pressure as we went on and on and it finished pretty nicely and we didnt need to use the PO203S after it.
Im all about reducing the amount of polishes I need to keep in my garage and after seeing how much cut the M105 had and if you slowly reduce pressure on your last pass how it finishes off, Im planning on replacing the Power Finish when its done with the M205. So while I havent used the power gloss, Im planning on switching over to the Megs line because I think the M105/M205 combo can replace 3 steps with the Menzerna polishes.
However, Its important to emphasize the post you made before about pressure, because to get enough cut out of the M105 to remove the scuff mark, I had to put a good amount of pressure onto the PC and the paint will heat up.
Last edited by philter25; 07-19-2010 at 12:24 PM.
07-19-2010, 09:15 AM
#27
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hmm I guess i'll go with the M105 and M205 combo then, if it saves me money. 
thanks for the advice.
My dad has a PC he bought it a couple of years ago at Canadian Tire and he wants me to use that instead of buying a PC7424... is it safe to use any random PC if i have never done it before? I think the 7424 has some sort of multi-angle process where it prevents newbies from damaging their paint? Anything i should look for in his PC so i don't risk ruining my paint?
thanks for the advice.My dad has a PC he bought it a couple of years ago at Canadian Tire and he wants me to use that instead of buying a PC7424... is it safe to use any random PC if i have never done it before? I think the 7424 has some sort of multi-angle process where it prevents newbies from damaging their paint? Anything i should look for in his PC so i don't risk ruining my paint?
07-19-2010, 12:39 PM
#28
^ and just for the record, Im not disagreeing with Black Betty's suggestion, Im sure that will get the job done also. Im just commenting on my comparison from using the M105 to other Menzerna polishes.
I'd still ask George in the ask the detailer thread and post the picture for him to see. George has many many many years more experience and will be able to give you another viewpoint looking at the picture and knowing what combo will be able to remove it.
But if you do go with the M105, look into getting the new Lake Country Hydro Tech Cyan Pads. My Orange pad is starting to come apart and I need to replace it and get a yellow pad and I saw they came out with a new Cyan pad which apparently cuts almost as much as the yellow (so it also has the cut of the orange) but finishes down nicer than an orange.
There was a review who did a side by side comparison of these pads vs. the regular lake country pads using an orange with SIP and then white with super finish and he found that just using the cyan with SIP gave the same level of cut, but finished as nicely as the white pad.
I cant speak from experience but based on reviews, as soon as detailed image has their next sale, Im picking up the cyan pad to replace the Yellow/Orange/green pad in my arsenal and hopefully I'll be able to cut out a step on cars with moderate swirl marks/scuffs and Im going to pick up the M205 with white pad (or tangerine) to do a 1-step polish on my car which has very very minor swirl marks. I'll still have the PO85RD as a finishing polish for dark colored cars with the black pad and then a sealant with the blue pad.
.....read through the ask the detailer last few pages to read more about those pads.
I'd still ask George in the ask the detailer thread and post the picture for him to see. George has many many many years more experience and will be able to give you another viewpoint looking at the picture and knowing what combo will be able to remove it.
But if you do go with the M105, look into getting the new Lake Country Hydro Tech Cyan Pads. My Orange pad is starting to come apart and I need to replace it and get a yellow pad and I saw they came out with a new Cyan pad which apparently cuts almost as much as the yellow (so it also has the cut of the orange) but finishes down nicer than an orange.
There was a review who did a side by side comparison of these pads vs. the regular lake country pads using an orange with SIP and then white with super finish and he found that just using the cyan with SIP gave the same level of cut, but finished as nicely as the white pad.
I cant speak from experience but based on reviews, as soon as detailed image has their next sale, Im picking up the cyan pad to replace the Yellow/Orange/green pad in my arsenal and hopefully I'll be able to cut out a step on cars with moderate swirl marks/scuffs and Im going to pick up the M205 with white pad (or tangerine) to do a 1-step polish on my car which has very very minor swirl marks. I'll still have the PO85RD as a finishing polish for dark colored cars with the black pad and then a sealant with the blue pad.
.....read through the ask the detailer last few pages to read more about those pads.
07-20-2010, 12:03 PM
#29
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thanks phil, i will ask in the thread
My dad insisted on trying Nufinish's scratch doctor on the scratch, and obviously it didn't do anything. he was too stubborn to not try it.
My dad insisted on trying Nufinish's scratch doctor on the scratch, and obviously it didn't do anything. he was too stubborn to not try it.
07-20-2010, 01:03 PM
#30
I have scratchX and have used it successfully, but you gotta understand its limitations. That stuff is for very fine scratches only. It might lighten up the scuff mark around the edges where the scratches arent as deep, but its not going to get it all out.
I use scratchX now when I see a swirl mark or something very small that bothers me and I can usually get it out by hand with a cloth in a minute or two. Pretty much its just there for those very very small ones that you want to get rid of when you dont want to get out the buffer and dirty up a pad.
I use scratchX now when I see a swirl mark or something very small that bothers me and I can usually get it out by hand with a cloth in a minute or two. Pretty much its just there for those very very small ones that you want to get rid of when you dont want to get out the buffer and dirty up a pad.