upperdecker

This evidently is not my week, notwithstanding that yesterday was my birthday. Last Sunday (6 days ago), I damaged my door in my garage. I solicited help in this forum, and I ended up getting a quote of $160 to replace the black tape, or laminate, that is between the window and the edge of the door. Thanks to anyone who responded with advice.

Now, today, as I was washing my car, the bucket got between the hose and the car. As I was pulling on the hose to get more length so I could rinse the rear of the car, it caused the bucket to slide into the door. Naturally, the metal handle was facing the door, as Murphy's Law (or my crappy luck) would demand.

Anyway, the handle made a fairly shallow scratch about one inch long. I used some Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax and moderate pressure to remove it as well as I could. At this point, the scratch is only visible from certain angles, and it can be slightly detected with a thumbnail. In other words, I can't hear it, but I can feel a slight imperfection.

One, was using the NXT with pressure (elbow grease) a mistake? Two, can I use something else to completely elimate the trace scratch? I do NOT have a machine (e.g., a Portper Cable) to apply polish, but can I try to apply polish by hand anyway since it's such a small job?

This is a 2009 G with the self healing paint, and I have read conflicting opinions on this forum as to whether polish should be used at all. In another thread, someone--it might even have been George--recommended Meguiar's ScratchX. Would that be an approach to consider, or is it too harsh for the self healing paint on the '09s?

Thanks in advance.

Tom

upperdecker

Well, I answered one of my questions myself. Evidently, I did do more harm than good by applying the NTX. The problem was likely the pressure I exerted. I looked at the area using a bright light, and at the correct angle, I was able to see not only the scratch, but also some swirls, or "haze," around the scratch where I applied the wax. It can't be seen in direct sunlight; only in indirect light at a particular angle. Is there any chance the self healing paint might make some of this go away? I tend to doubt it.

So, if anyone can advise me on what to do next, I would be most appreciative. Maybe I need to take it to a detailer to have that one spot buffed and glazed? Or can I polish it by hand? If I do, I would need some help on what product(s) to use. And would I also need to follow up the polish with a glaze?

So many questions. What a noob. Sorry.

Tom

Detailed Image

iTrader: (2)

For future reference, waxes will not remove scratches. All a wax does is protect the surface. You need a product with abrasives to remove a scratch.

Personally, I'm not sold on how much correction the "self healing paint" is capable of doing. To clean up the marks, simply start with the least aggressive polish you can find. If you're going by hand, start with ScratchX and work from there.

A glaze will merely help hide some of the marring you caused by applying the wax, it will help with the scratch. If you polish properly, there's shouldn't be much need for a glaze.

You do however, want to reprotect your paint after you polish as polishing will remove any coat(s) of protection you have on your paint.

Let me know if there's anything else I can help with.

George

upperdecker

George,

Thanks again. What color is your cape? Seems like you're always rescuing people like me.

A few follow up questions. Did you mean to write that a glaze will NOT help with the scratch?

The reason I thought a wax might be the first, and least intensive, solution is that the packaging claims it will remove swirls, so I assumed there might be some very fine abrasive(s) in the formula. I guess there must be, since it did cause some marring, right?

So, I first try the ScratchX, which I assume is merely a finishing polish. Do I apply it using a back and forth motion, or are small circles better? I did read the auto detailing guide on DI, and it only says, "Using a good amount of pressure, work the polish into the paint using overlapping motions."

Finally, given that I do seem to have caused some marring, should I just assume I do need a glaze, or is it possible the ScratchX will correct it? If I do need a glaze, what would you recommend? I am using FMJ as a sealant, which I think can be relevant to determining which glaze to use, if indeed one is needed.

Thanks again.

Tom

ozzypriest

iTrader: (2)

ScratchX is an abrasive compounder that also happens to polish as it does its work of removing clearcoat. It works, I understand, by removing clearcoat (like all compounds) until the portion of the clear coat containing the imperfections is gone, and then it polishes the clear coat at the same time. I've used a super-abrasive compound before (on a mark) that was essentially like sandpaper paste that left my finish a hazy mess. I followed with ScratchX and it polished the haze away nicely.