Ask a Professional Detailer... Brought to you by Detailed Image
05-08-2011, 11:31 PM
#1306
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Greg, I agree with keeping the car wet, but in the case I cannot, would the polish have to be done everytime I wash or would it work like a wax and would protect the wheels from spotting?
Thanks,
Matt
Thanks,
Matt
We can definitely help you get rid of those marks. Most likely with the warmer temps and even just a little bit of sunlight the mineral deposits in water can etch in to the finish. To help prevent this while washing try to keep the vehicle in the shade as much as possible, before, during and after a wash. Once the wheels, paint, glass, etc. are wet you need to keep rinsing them so they don't get warm and the water stays moving.
I generally don't recommend Windex on Chrome wheels so a pH neutral cleaner may be a better choice (i.e. P21S Gel Wheel Cleaner or the SONAX Wheel Cleaner Full Effect out of stock until next week). To get rid of those marks you just need a little metal polish. The Optimum Metal Polish is a great choice because it deep cleans, polishes, shines and protects all in one step. It should be able to buff out those marks and bring back a deeper shine. If you have any other questions please let me know.
Greg @ DI
I generally don't recommend Windex on Chrome wheels so a pH neutral cleaner may be a better choice (i.e. P21S Gel Wheel Cleaner or the SONAX Wheel Cleaner Full Effect out of stock until next week). To get rid of those marks you just need a little metal polish. The Optimum Metal Polish is a great choice because it deep cleans, polishes, shines and protects all in one step. It should be able to buff out those marks and bring back a deeper shine. If you have any other questions please let me know.
Greg @ DI
05-10-2011, 10:41 AM
#1307
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Hey,
I am about to wax my car for the very first time. I got the car about 2 months ago and was wondering if I need to remove the old wax/sealant before I apply the new wax (do you even think the original wax is still on after after 2 months?)
I am about to wax my car for the very first time. I got the car about 2 months ago and was wondering if I need to remove the old wax/sealant before I apply the new wax (do you even think the original wax is still on after after 2 months?)
05-11-2011, 04:18 PM
#1308
Protecting the wheels with a product like the Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant will help delay the etching, but it's not a fool proof method of prevention. I typically would re-apply this sealant every 4 - 6 weeks depending on conditions. You only need to polish the wheels if there are watermarks or other build ups you want to remove. If you have any other questions please don't hesitate to ask!
Greg @ DI
05-11-2011, 04:27 PM
#1309
Greg @ DI
05-13-2011, 01:03 PM
#1310
I have 11' G37S cp, MW. few days ago, i noticed that there are several yellowish spots on my lower front bumper. i thought they are tree saps. Bringing my car to a car wash guy in my office building to wash them off. was told that they are not sap, but water(rain) mixed with Pollen sat on the paint, and dry up. he asked me to touch the surface, it is smooth, not feeling anything htere. it is kind of part of pain now. i was so pissed, only have this car for two months. he is going to looking into a way to get rid of them, but anyone has idea how to get rid of them>
05-13-2011, 05:06 PM
#1311
Hello!
I have a sad situation. I just bought my Infiniti from a nice gentleman who was able to garage it daily and keep it nice and baby it. In comparison I'm a monster. 
Its my daily driver and I can't even garage it. I can't cover it because I read that outdoor covers just arn't a good idea in general, also I know myself and I know that, since I drive it EVERYDAY I wouldn't bother after the first week.
1.) What should I do to minimize the UV + Sun effects on my car/leather?
It has 20% tint all around and that seems to keep it nice and shady inside but I still worry. I always park with the windshield away from the sun if I have to park in the sun at all. (I usually try to park in the parking garage when I'm at work).
2.) Also, I read about your routine:
Wash every two weeks
Wax once a month
Sealant once a season
Clay bar twice a year
Should I modify this? I read about some plastic films you can lay over your roof/trunk/hood that fight off UV rays. Ever heard of them? Kind of like an anti-sun clear bra. (Btw, whats your opinion on clear bras? I spend a lot of time on the freeway, my last car got pretty chipped up, but then, it had a poor aftermarket paint job)
3.) Is it a bad idea to remove the foam heat insulator/sound deadening material under the hood? It allows the enthusiast to hear his engine better (for free), but it definitely allows more heat into the hood paint from the engine. The hood obviously gets hot no matter what, but it probably would get really hot this way. Probably a difference from 100 to 160+ (F) if my estimates are right.
4.) I've read the first couple pages of this thread and really like the advice that you gave, but the links to products that you describe have all changed. Otherwise I might have already bought the all in one leather cleaner-restorer, the 60-minute wash, and other items. I don't have 5 hours to spend on my car every other weekend so I need products that work but have speed of application as a priority.
5.) I'm not always going to have time to wash it myself every two weeks, if I have to take it to a commercial washer,to what sort of place should I take it to make sure they, at least, don't do any damage? I.e. Hand wash only?, non acidic washes? etc? Get the cheap waxing-wash upsell? Avoid their upsells at all cost?
I'm talking about just a quick wash. Also, I live in OC CA so if you happen to know a place, just say so...
6.) I have a 10" hand held orbital and use it to apply wax, but I feel like when I use it to remove the wax I'm just pushing it around. Is the idea to use many many pads to always keep a clean surface? It seems like if you're going to do all that changing you might as well just apply it with the orbital and take it off by hand. Do you use Microfiber to apply or just to remove?
D*** this list has gotten long, every question just reminded me of another question.
If you ever get to all these questions Thanks in advance!
Also, if you answer, I'll probably wont be able to help myself from spending too much at your store.
I love this car and really want it to last, even though I'm always busy.
Its my daily driver and I can't even garage it. I can't cover it because I read that outdoor covers just arn't a good idea in general, also I know myself and I know that, since I drive it EVERYDAY I wouldn't bother after the first week.
1.) What should I do to minimize the UV + Sun effects on my car/leather?
It has 20% tint all around and that seems to keep it nice and shady inside but I still worry. I always park with the windshield away from the sun if I have to park in the sun at all. (I usually try to park in the parking garage when I'm at work). 2.) Also, I read about your routine:
Wash every two weeks
Wax once a month
Sealant once a season
Clay bar twice a year
Should I modify this? I read about some plastic films you can lay over your roof/trunk/hood that fight off UV rays. Ever heard of them? Kind of like an anti-sun clear bra. (Btw, whats your opinion on clear bras? I spend a lot of time on the freeway, my last car got pretty chipped up, but then, it had a poor aftermarket paint job)
3.) Is it a bad idea to remove the foam heat insulator/sound deadening material under the hood? It allows the enthusiast to hear his engine better (for free), but it definitely allows more heat into the hood paint from the engine. The hood obviously gets hot no matter what, but it probably would get really hot this way. Probably a difference from 100 to 160+ (F) if my estimates are right.
4.) I've read the first couple pages of this thread and really like the advice that you gave, but the links to products that you describe have all changed. Otherwise I might have already bought the all in one leather cleaner-restorer, the 60-minute wash, and other items. I don't have 5 hours to spend on my car every other weekend so I need products that work but have speed of application as a priority.
5.) I'm not always going to have time to wash it myself every two weeks, if I have to take it to a commercial washer,to what sort of place should I take it to make sure they, at least, don't do any damage? I.e. Hand wash only?, non acidic washes? etc? Get the cheap waxing-wash upsell? Avoid their upsells at all cost?
I'm talking about just a quick wash. Also, I live in OC CA so if you happen to know a place, just say so...
6.) I have a 10" hand held orbital and use it to apply wax, but I feel like when I use it to remove the wax I'm just pushing it around. Is the idea to use many many pads to always keep a clean surface? It seems like if you're going to do all that changing you might as well just apply it with the orbital and take it off by hand. Do you use Microfiber to apply or just to remove?
D*** this list has gotten long, every question just reminded me of another question.
If you ever get to all these questions Thanks in advance!
Also, if you answer, I'll probably wont be able to help myself from spending too much at your store.
I love this car and really want it to last, even though I'm always busy.
05-13-2011, 06:08 PM
#1312
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Greg,
I guess I will pull it in the garage as soon as I am done hitting it with the hose. Then dry the windows and hit the wheels next. I usually use the quik detailer if I have any spots on the paint, so will do that.
Thanks,
Matt
I guess I will pull it in the garage as soon as I am done hitting it with the hose. Then dry the windows and hit the wheels next. I usually use the quik detailer if I have any spots on the paint, so will do that.
Thanks,
Matt
05-15-2011, 03:57 PM
#1313
I have 11' G37S cp, MW. few days ago, i noticed that there are several yellowish spots on my lower front bumper. i thought they are tree saps. Bringing my car to a car wash guy in my office building to wash them off. was told that they are not sap, but water(rain) mixed with Pollen sat on the paint, and dry up. he asked me to touch the surface, it is smooth, not feeling anything htere. it is kind of part of pain now. i was so pissed, only have this car for two months. he is going to looking into a way to get rid of them, but anyone has idea how to get rid of them>
I would start off with a clay bar like the DI Accessories Medium Grade Clay Bar for these stubborn build ups. If that doesn't work try the Stoner Tarminator which is great on tar, sap, road grime, bug smear, etc.
Greg @ DI
Greg @ DI
Greg @ DI
05-15-2011, 04:24 PM
#1314
SilverHR - Thank you for the questions I'll do my best to answer each one.
1.) For the leather, vinyl, rubber and most plastics I highly recommend the Optimum Protectant Plus (Leather Protectant). It leaves a great matte finish with valuable UV protection. If any areas are more than just lightly dusty clean them first then apply this protection.
2.) That schedule works but there are so many combos that work and there is no one right answer. At a minimum I would suggest a full detail (wash, dry, clay, polish, sealant, wax [optional]) one to two times per year. In between at a minimum I would re-apply the sealant every 3 - 4 months. If you want to use the wax in between at any time you certainly can.
I haven't heard of anti-sun clear bras for the trunk but it very well could exist. The clear bras are really personal preference, I don't think they look great but they do help against rock chips. I think on the front bumper and other areas where chips happen it can make sense but I don't think you need it on the trunk.
3.) This would be outside my area of expertise, sorry can't help you there.
4.) Wash/Dry - most swirls come from this process so quality products and techniques are critical. Check out our detailing guide for this step and other steps to maximize your efforts. Here are two awesome kits if interested.
DI Packages Washing and Drying Basic Kit
DI Packages Washing and Drying Starter Package
If speed is an issue try washing with the ONR in a kit like this:
DI Packages Basic Hose Free Wash Package with ONR
Clay Bar - This step deep cleans the paint so it's free from stubborn build ups not removed by the washing process. This may seem complicated or different but it's pretty simple and basic. In short spray some clay lube on the paint and glide the bar side to side and picks up micro contaminants in the paint. Here is an excellent value on a clay bar and lube - DI Packages DI Gentle Fine Grade Clay Bar 100g & Clay Lube.
Polish - This is the step where you really restore the paint to like new again. You can permanently remove swirls, oxidation, etc. not just temporarily hide them. If you prefer to do a hand application I generally just recommend a one step process with a foam applicator and Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205.
After polishing protect and enhance the shine with a sealant or wax. Waxes last about 2 - 6 weeks so we generally recommend a sealant which lasts 3 - 6 months. The Optimum Opti-Seal & Free Yellow Foam Applicator should be perfect for you as it's easily the fastest application of any product I've used. In short buff it on by hand extremely thin and you are DONE. No removal is needed it dries completely clear and looks awesome. You can also use this to protect your headlights, glass and wheels.
If you really want to you can apply a wax on top of the sealant for added protection and shine. The Poorboy's World Liquid Natty's Blue Wax is a great option for a quality liquid wax that works on all colors. If you want a bit more gloss from a paste wax try the Chemical Guys 50/50 Limited Series Concourse Paste Wax or any of the Dodo Juice waxes. These options are applied by hand only but the exceptional gloss makes it well worth it.
I hand remove all of the excess product with a clean DI Microfiber All Purpose Towel. These towels are paint safe and help quickly remove the left over clay lube, polish, sealant, etc. I'd suggest getting about 5x - 10x of them.
5.) If you have to get it washed I highly recommend a touch free wash and do not get any kind of spray wax. While no washing method is perfect this should help remove some of the noticeable build ups.
6.) I apply polishes, glazes, sealants and liquid waxes with a buffer. I personally would not recommend using the buffer you have because the pads are usually low quality and the power is too low for a polish. I never use a buffer to remove the excess product I only hand remove them with clean microfiber towels as noted above. If you do want to apply the products with the help of a buffer the Porter Cable 7424XP Random Orbital Buffer is a great option. It really helps with the polishes to get noticeably better results.
If I missed any questions or if you have more don't hesitate to ask we're here to help!
Greg @ DI
1.) For the leather, vinyl, rubber and most plastics I highly recommend the Optimum Protectant Plus (Leather Protectant). It leaves a great matte finish with valuable UV protection. If any areas are more than just lightly dusty clean them first then apply this protection.
2.) That schedule works but there are so many combos that work and there is no one right answer. At a minimum I would suggest a full detail (wash, dry, clay, polish, sealant, wax [optional]) one to two times per year. In between at a minimum I would re-apply the sealant every 3 - 4 months. If you want to use the wax in between at any time you certainly can.
I haven't heard of anti-sun clear bras for the trunk but it very well could exist. The clear bras are really personal preference, I don't think they look great but they do help against rock chips. I think on the front bumper and other areas where chips happen it can make sense but I don't think you need it on the trunk.
3.) This would be outside my area of expertise, sorry can't help you there.
4.) Wash/Dry - most swirls come from this process so quality products and techniques are critical. Check out our detailing guide for this step and other steps to maximize your efforts. Here are two awesome kits if interested.
DI Packages Washing and Drying Basic Kit
DI Packages Washing and Drying Starter Package
If speed is an issue try washing with the ONR in a kit like this:
DI Packages Basic Hose Free Wash Package with ONR
Clay Bar - This step deep cleans the paint so it's free from stubborn build ups not removed by the washing process. This may seem complicated or different but it's pretty simple and basic. In short spray some clay lube on the paint and glide the bar side to side and picks up micro contaminants in the paint. Here is an excellent value on a clay bar and lube - DI Packages DI Gentle Fine Grade Clay Bar 100g & Clay Lube.
Polish - This is the step where you really restore the paint to like new again. You can permanently remove swirls, oxidation, etc. not just temporarily hide them. If you prefer to do a hand application I generally just recommend a one step process with a foam applicator and Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205.
After polishing protect and enhance the shine with a sealant or wax. Waxes last about 2 - 6 weeks so we generally recommend a sealant which lasts 3 - 6 months. The Optimum Opti-Seal & Free Yellow Foam Applicator should be perfect for you as it's easily the fastest application of any product I've used. In short buff it on by hand extremely thin and you are DONE. No removal is needed it dries completely clear and looks awesome. You can also use this to protect your headlights, glass and wheels.
If you really want to you can apply a wax on top of the sealant for added protection and shine. The Poorboy's World Liquid Natty's Blue Wax is a great option for a quality liquid wax that works on all colors. If you want a bit more gloss from a paste wax try the Chemical Guys 50/50 Limited Series Concourse Paste Wax or any of the Dodo Juice waxes. These options are applied by hand only but the exceptional gloss makes it well worth it.
I hand remove all of the excess product with a clean DI Microfiber All Purpose Towel. These towels are paint safe and help quickly remove the left over clay lube, polish, sealant, etc. I'd suggest getting about 5x - 10x of them.
5.) If you have to get it washed I highly recommend a touch free wash and do not get any kind of spray wax. While no washing method is perfect this should help remove some of the noticeable build ups.
6.) I apply polishes, glazes, sealants and liquid waxes with a buffer. I personally would not recommend using the buffer you have because the pads are usually low quality and the power is too low for a polish. I never use a buffer to remove the excess product I only hand remove them with clean microfiber towels as noted above. If you do want to apply the products with the help of a buffer the Porter Cable 7424XP Random Orbital Buffer is a great option. It really helps with the polishes to get noticeably better results.
If I missed any questions or if you have more don't hesitate to ask we're here to help!
Greg @ DI
05-16-2011, 09:30 AM
#1315
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Greg, got one more for you. I have an Altima that I am selling and I need to freshen the carpet interior, not the floormats, but the seats. I don't want to bring it somewhere for them to do it as I would rather shampoo the interior. Can you recommend a product for that? I have a big fan I can use to let it air dry.
Also, I am buying the orbital buffer package with the wax and getting the sealant as well. Can you recommend a clay bar for me? I will be using this on a 2003 vehicle, pewter in color, that has not been garaged. I think with the clay bar, quik detailer and the waxes and sealants I am getting with the buffer that I should be good, but don't know what kind of clay i need.
Thanks,
Matt
Also, I am buying the orbital buffer package with the wax and getting the sealant as well. Can you recommend a clay bar for me? I will be using this on a 2003 vehicle, pewter in color, that has not been garaged. I think with the clay bar, quik detailer and the waxes and sealants I am getting with the buffer that I should be good, but don't know what kind of clay i need.
Thanks,
Matt
Last edited by weaver; 05-16-2011 at 04:31 PM.
05-17-2011, 02:29 PM
#1316
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Greg,
How do you polish a SS exhaust tip? When I first got it i put some polish/sealer on it (zaino cs). That stuff works great on wheels and makes them easy to clean, but on the exhaust there is still a lot of crap that builds up (like a brownish spotting) in just a few days.
So what do you recommend to get the SS exhaust tips looking shiny??
How do you polish a SS exhaust tip? When I first got it i put some polish/sealer on it (zaino cs). That stuff works great on wheels and makes them easy to clean, but on the exhaust there is still a lot of crap that builds up (like a brownish spotting) in just a few days.
So what do you recommend to get the SS exhaust tips looking shiny??
05-17-2011, 03:25 PM
#1317
was wondering if i can use any metal polish with a mothers mini powerball as i cant seem to remove the brown spotting by hand.
05-17-2011, 04:17 PM
#1318
Greg, got one more for you. I have an Altima that I am selling and I need to freshen the carpet interior, not the floormats, but the seats. I don't want to bring it somewhere for them to do it as I would rather shampoo the interior. Can you recommend a product for that? I have a big fan I can use to let it air dry.
Also, I am buying the orbital buffer package with the wax and getting the sealant as well. Can you recommend a clay bar for me? I will be using this on a 2003 vehicle, pewter in color, that has not been garaged. I think with the clay bar, quik detailer and the waxes and sealants I am getting with the buffer that I should be good, but don't know what kind of clay i need.
Thanks,
Matt
Also, I am buying the orbital buffer package with the wax and getting the sealant as well. Can you recommend a clay bar for me? I will be using this on a 2003 vehicle, pewter in color, that has not been garaged. I think with the clay bar, quik detailer and the waxes and sealants I am getting with the buffer that I should be good, but don't know what kind of clay i need.
Thanks,
Matt
Start off with a really quick vacuum to pick up the loose dust and dirt. If you just need to clean them then the 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover and a brush is all you really need. Mist it on the fabric and spray stains more directly. Let it sit for 1 - 2 minutes. Then agitate the carpets in a logical pattern working the dust, dirt, etc. in to a pile to be vacuumed up. For extra cleaning power dip the brush in a tray of hot water and work stains in multiple different directions. If you need to neutralize any odors the Chemical Guys Sofast Odor Eater is a great choice as well.
The DI Packages DI Gentle Fine Grade Clay Bar 100g & Clay Lube is a great value with the right clay bar for your paint. If you have any other questions please let me know.
Greg @ DI
05-17-2011, 04:52 PM
#1319
Greg,
How do you polish a SS exhaust tip? When I first got it i put some polish/sealer on it (zaino cs). That stuff works great on wheels and makes them easy to clean, but on the exhaust there is still a lot of crap that builds up (like a brownish spotting) in just a few days.
So what do you recommend to get the SS exhaust tips looking shiny??
How do you polish a SS exhaust tip? When I first got it i put some polish/sealer on it (zaino cs). That stuff works great on wheels and makes them easy to clean, but on the exhaust there is still a lot of crap that builds up (like a brownish spotting) in just a few days.
So what do you recommend to get the SS exhaust tips looking shiny??
Greg @ DI
05-17-2011, 04:54 PM
#1320
Greg @ DI