Taktix1

nice i'll look into it, thanks!

Detailed Image

iTrader: (2)

No specific buckets, I just use a 5 gallon bucket from Pep Boys ~$3 - $5

Thanks again for your continued support!

George

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iTrader: (3)

what wax do u recommend for a black car? i've been using natty's blue paste, like it but would like to try something else. looking for something that goes on and comes off easier than natty's.
also natty's blue paste leaves a dusty looking residue behind, are there any waxes that dont do that?

Detailed Image

iTrader: (2)

Natty's Blue is a great wax for under $20 in terms of results. I do find that the application and removal process is a little more difficult than other waxes we sell. For darker colored vehicles consider trying:

Chemical Guys 50/50 Wax - kind of pricey up front, but you get 16oz so double (or more) the product than other waxes we carry.

Pinnacle Souveran - Probably our deepest and wettest looking wax, very easy to work with, but also our least durable wax unfortunately.

Blackfire Midnight Sun - Another very deep looking wax. Similar to Pinnacle Souveran, 1oz less of product.

Unfortunately, all three of these waxes are significantly more expensive than Natty's Blue, but the results are deeper, clearer and wetter. The application and removal process should be easier as well.

Let me know if you have any specific questions on any of the waxes.

Regards,

George

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iTrader: (3)

thanks George!

i think i'm gonna give the Blackfire a try...u'll be getting another order from me very soon

YeahRightFoo

iTrader: (1)

Hey George,

I just got my car detailed two weeks ago, wash, clay, wax, polish, and sealant. My car has this really deep shine, and really brings out the color of the car. The sealant he used worked wonders. Anyways my question is, after my detail what should I do for my first car wash after a full exterior detail? Can I just wash it? What is the usual step for cleaning a car after it was fully detailed?

Thanks.

Detailed Image

iTrader: (2)

We greatly appreciate your continued support! Keep me posted on what you think of Midnight Sun, it's a stunning wax.

Yep, properly washing and drying it is the best thing you can do. Be sure to follow the proper techniques and use quality wash tools and products to ensure that you aren't adding swirls and imperfections to the paints finish. Here's our washing and drying guide to follow if you would like to look some things over.

You can follow up with a quick detailer or top it with another coat of wax if you wish to add more protection. This is completely up to you. If you need any suggestions on any products to use for maintaining your vehicle, please do not hesitate to ask.

George

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iTrader: (3)

Hey George,

Does the 15% discount not apply to DI.com orders?

Detailed Image

iTrader: (2)

If you're referring to the 15% off code that was in our latest newsletter, that was to promote our new site Tastefully Driven and only applies there. Many of the same auto detailing products are on both sites, but I haven't gotten a chance to add Chemical Guys or Blackfire to TD yet.

George

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iTrader: (3)

o well...i ordered already

i'll be sure to post up how well i like the blackfire wax

ObsidianGT

iTrader: (1)

Hi George D. from Detailed Image,

I'm the proud new owner of a beautiful, but demanding, black G37. I have been reading some of your posts and I think your advice is spot-on (no pun intended). I have an interesting situation I would like your opinion on. I’m posting on this thread in case it helps anyone in the future with a similar situation.

When I purchased the car new last week I had the dealer apply a teflon coating on the paint prior to delivery, along with a scotchguard treatment on the interior black leather. But, my car had two minor scratches in the paint; a 1/4 inch scratch on the front driver's-side fender and a small 1/2 inch scratch on the front bumper near the driver's-side bottom corner. The service dept. sent it to a body shop to have the fender and bumper removed, sanded down and repainted. Honestly, I'm nervously hoping all goes well.

1) They advised me to not have the teflon reapplied for 30 days while the paint "settles." Is this true and does this make sense?

2) Understandably, without knowing exactly what was applied to the paint, briefly do you recommend or advise against such treatments?

3) I want to apply a clear bra. Given my situation, are there any pre-treatments you'd recommend? Do you even recommend a clear bra? I heard that you can actually apply wax and other treatments to clear bras, is this true?

4) Are there any chemical-based alternatives to a clear bra you'd recommend that would protect the paint against rock chips and sand damage? I often travel to the Coachella Valley low desert and sand storms are normal on the freeway. I've personally experienced the effects of sand damage on paint, windshields and headlights; I'm going to be very cautious with my G's "soft" paint.

5) I love the list format of your post in the quote below. It cleared up a lot of confusion I had on proper detailing. Can you, the good car doctor, recommend a custom treatment for keeping my black car beautiful? I'm willing to spend the money on the quality products, but I lean towards price/performance (hey, I have a G, right?). I’m not very hands-on with this sort of stuff, so if it's too difficult I’ll probably pawn it off on the mobile carwash guy. Or maybe I’ll turn a new leaf and spend some quality weekend time doing it myself. Oh, and my G is parked in the sunlight during the day at work (grrrr!), but garaged at night, if that helps.

Thank you sooooo much!

Detailed Image

iTrader: (2)

1) They advised me to not have the teflon reapplied for 30 days while the paint "settles." Is this true and does this make sense?

Yes, any fresh paint job should not be coated with a sealant or wax (usually it's 90 - 120 days) until the paint has fully cured. If they are using an oven and baking the piece without it being on your vehicle, then 30 days may be sufficient.

2) Understandably, without knowing exactly what was applied to the paint, briefly do you recommend or advise against such treatments?

Are you referring to the "Teflon coating" the dealership applied? This is nothing more than a basic sealant or wax. These are money makers for dealerships and you'd do a 10x better job yourself. Teflon needs to be applied around 700 degrees for it to bond to the paint, so anything termed Teflon in the auto detailing industry is a marketing gimmick.

3) I want to apply a clear bra. Given my situation, are there any pre-treatments you'd recommend? Do you even recommend a clear bra? I heard that you can actually apply wax and other treatments to clear bras, is this true?

Personally, I'm not a fan of clear bras. I think once you have that detailers eye, it easily becomes an eye sore. I have seen some very professional installations where they actually take the time to properly prep the paint underneath as best as possible (wash, clay, polish to remove swirls and imperfections) and it does look nice. The problem is over time, product can build up along the edges, or the clear bra scuffs or fades. It's really a preference of the owner. You can still get rock chips with a clear bra, swirl marks, scratches, etc.

4) Are there any chemical-based alternatives to a clear bra you'd recommend that would protect the paint against rock chips and sand damage? I often travel to the Coachella Valley low desert and sand storms are normal on the freeway. I've personally experienced the effects of sand damage on paint, windshields and headlights; I'm going to be very cautious with my G's "soft" paint.

No matter what a company or product tries to tell you, there's no product out there that will prevent rock chips or sand damage. As I said in the last question, even clear bras can get rock chips and other imperfections.

5) I love the list format of your post in the quote below. It cleared up a lot of confusion I had on proper detailing. Can you, the good car doctor, recommend a custom treatment for keeping my black car beautiful? I'm willing to spend the money on the quality products, but I lean towards price/performance (hey, I have a G, right?). I’m not very hands-on with this sort of stuff, so if it's too difficult I’ll probably pawn it off on the mobile carwash guy. Or maybe I’ll turn a new leaf and spend some quality weekend time doing it myself. Oh, and my G is parked in the sunlight during the day at work (grrrr!), but garaged at night, if that helps.

With any car, but specifically darker colored vehicles, the thing you want to spend the most time mastering is the washing and drying process. This is where most swirls, water spots, scratches and other imperfections occur. A great starting point would be investing in a quality washing and drying package and reading over our washing and drying how-to guide.

After you get the washing and drying process down, the next most important thing is to make sure your vehicle is always properly protected. This can come from either a sealant, a wax, or a combination of both. Sealants will give you longer durability, but waxes will offer more depth and gloss to the paint and tend to protect your vehicle better on certain things, such as water spots, bird dropping etchings and maintaining your car during normal washes.

A great combination that's easy to use and yields a deep, dripping wet look on dark colors is Chemical Guys M-Seal topped with Poorboy's Natty's Blue Paste Wax.

Using a clay bar will help if you have embedded contamination that will not come off from a regular wash. A quick test to see if you need a clay bar is to glide your hand over the paint, and if it feels rough to the touch, then you can benefit from using a clay bar. New vehicles commonly have rail dust or other forms of embedded contamination on the paint.

Polishing is where the most time, money and effort comes in. This is the step where you can remove swirls, scratches, water spots, and other imperfections that hinder the finish of your paint. Polishing is best done with a quality buffer, which is part of the reason I mentioned money. A good buffer setup usually runs ~$175 - $300+ and then requires polishes afterwards. If you do decide to polish your vehicle, I'd highly recommend using the Menzerna line of polishes, specifically finishing off with their PO106FF finishing polish.

Hope this helps answer your questions. Please do not hesitate to ask me to clear anything up for you or ask more questions that come to mind.

Enjoy your new G! Congrats!

George @ DetailedImage.com

bfranks

George,

What's the best bug / tar remover that you carry? We have an infestation of love bugs here right now, and it's driving me crazy. I ran errands for about 4 hours today and by the time I got home the front of my car was covered with them. I tried letting the Poorboy's S&W soak in and using a microfiber towel with no luck. I then broke out the P21S Total Auto Wash, with the same results. Nothing would break that stuff down. Any tips or tricks for getting that off?


Edit: Just to clarify, this is mostly on the clear bra. It seems to be much harder to clean then the paint is.

Garnet Canuck

I use Poorboys Bug Squash and find that it works extremely well. Just spray it on, let it sit for a minute and wipe it off. No rubbing involved whatsoever.

Romeo Xray

What's the opinion on washing vehicles with a grout sponge; how is it compared to other wash mitts, sponges, etc.. ? This is the sponge in question: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...ctId=100173109