Ask a Professional Detailer... Brought to you by Detailed Image
03-31-2008, 06:27 PM
#436
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Ok you asked for it lol...
1. My car is only 2 months old so from what I read I still need to claybar as a first step.. Is this true?
2. Since my car is only 2 months old do I really need something as abrasive as SIP or IP with orange pad? The paint looks good and feels smooth but I am starting to see swirls all over. There nothing crazy just enough to make me crazy! Damn dealer!!! LoL
3. I looked at the PC polisher on your site and saw that you have a starter kit. I know you need the backplate to use pads but why the 6 inch counter weight?
4. Are the pads easy to clean or should you just order new ones with each use?
5. Is there any advantage to apply/take off polish/wax with the RO Polishers? I would usualy put on and take off by hand...
6. I plan on washing, clay barin, washing, polishing (undecided if this needs to be a 1 or 2 step), then Z5 2-3 times and Z2 1-2 times, wait 24 hours and wax with Natty Blue, fallowed by a gloss enhancer Z-6-Z-8.. This sound good? Keep in mind I love Zaino products espically sealents.
7. Does Natty Blue add more protection/look better with multiple coats?
8. As far as washing I think im going to go with the 2 bucket 2 glove method with grit guard. Seems to make the most sense to me.. Im not going to go for the RO water filter its pretty expensive plus the coast of use is high with filter refills.. Maybe Ill get 2 gallons of destilled water and pour down my car...
Ok im done for now.. Thanx for the replys I will def order what I need that you have from your site!
1. My car is only 2 months old so from what I read I still need to claybar as a first step.. Is this true?
2. Since my car is only 2 months old do I really need something as abrasive as SIP or IP with orange pad? The paint looks good and feels smooth but I am starting to see swirls all over. There nothing crazy just enough to make me crazy! Damn dealer!!! LoL
3. I looked at the PC polisher on your site and saw that you have a starter kit. I know you need the backplate to use pads but why the 6 inch counter weight?
4. Are the pads easy to clean or should you just order new ones with each use?
5. Is there any advantage to apply/take off polish/wax with the RO Polishers? I would usualy put on and take off by hand...
6. I plan on washing, clay barin, washing, polishing (undecided if this needs to be a 1 or 2 step), then Z5 2-3 times and Z2 1-2 times, wait 24 hours and wax with Natty Blue, fallowed by a gloss enhancer Z-6-Z-8.. This sound good? Keep in mind I love Zaino products espically sealents.
7. Does Natty Blue add more protection/look better with multiple coats?
8. As far as washing I think im going to go with the 2 bucket 2 glove method with grit guard. Seems to make the most sense to me.. Im not going to go for the RO water filter its pretty expensive plus the coast of use is high with filter refills.. Maybe Ill get 2 gallons of destilled water and pour down my car...
Ok im done for now.. Thanx for the replys I will def order what I need that you have from your site!
03-31-2008, 07:25 PM
#437
Ok you asked for it lol...
1. My car is only 2 months old so from what I read I still need to claybar as a first step.. Is this true?
I recommend claying new vehicles. During the transit of your vehicle, it could have traveled via boat, truck, train, etc. it becomes exposed to elements, rail dust, pollution, and much more. By claying you're vehicle, you'll remove the embedded contamination and allow your polishes, sealant and wax to perform it's best.
2. Since my car is only 2 months old do I really need something as abrasive as SIP or IP with orange pad? The paint looks good and feels smooth but I am starting to see swirls all over. There nothing crazy just enough to make me crazy! Damn dealer!!! LoL
Depends on how deep the swirls are, can't really say without a picture of the imperfections. Whether you use it now or in the future, it's nice to have a more aggressive polish option handy because sooner or later you'll get someone who dings you in a parking lot, with a shopping cart, etc.
3. I looked at the PC polisher on your site and saw that you have a starter kit. I know you need the backplate to use pads but why the 6 inch counter weight?
The counter weight helps cut down on vibrations from using a 6" backing plate, like the one we sell. The PC will still vibrate, but slightly less with the appropriate counter weight. Less vibrations = a less tired arm and slightly longer durability from your PC.
4. Are the pads easy to clean or should you just order new ones with each use?
New pads each detail would become very expensive! If you use the pads properly, they are very easy to clean. When polishing, I use about 3 pads per coat, swapping them out about 1/3rd of the way through the vehicle for a fresh one. By doing this you help keep the consistency of your polishing and prolong the life of your pads. The other alternative is to take a brush, like a toothbrush and after every panel or so, try to clean out the pads as best you can by running the buffer on the brush. The cleaner the pad the better your polish will perform and the better your results. Many detailers use 1 pad per coat and wonder why at the end the results aren't as good as when they started. A saturated pad can diminish results.
5. Is there any advantage to apply/take off polish/wax with the RO Polishers? I would usualy put on and take off by hand...
Nope, you'd only create more problems if anything. The bonnets some places sell to put on top of the pads are not effective and you can't exactly reach every area of the vehicle. Again, I use about 3 - 4 clean microfiber towels per coat I remove when I detail, so imagine how many bonnets would be needed, considering you can fold a MF towel into 1/4th's and effectively get 8 clean sides out of it.
6. I plan on washing, clay barin, washing, polishing (undecided if this needs to be a 1 or 2 step), then Z5 2-3 times and Z2 1-2 times, wait 24 hours and wax with Natty Blue, fallowed by a gloss enhancer Z-6-Z-8.. This sound good? Keep in mind I love Zaino products espically sealents.
Sounds like a great plan.
7. Does Natty Blue add more protection/look better with multiple coats?
I find that 2 - 3 coats spaced at least 12 hours apart (waxes usually have shorter cure times than sealants) achieves maximum results. Beyond 3 coats, you reach a point of diminishing returns. Protection wise, the added protection is pretty minimal, but you'll achieve more of an even coverage and enhance the depth and gloss a little bit.
8. As far as washing I think im going to go with the 2 bucket 2 glove method with grit guard. Seems to make the most sense to me.. Im not going to go for the RO water filter its pretty expensive plus the coast of use is high with filter refills.. Maybe Ill get 2 gallons of destilled water and pour down my car...
Ok im done for now.. Thanx for the replys I will def order what I need that you have from your site!
1. My car is only 2 months old so from what I read I still need to claybar as a first step.. Is this true?
I recommend claying new vehicles. During the transit of your vehicle, it could have traveled via boat, truck, train, etc. it becomes exposed to elements, rail dust, pollution, and much more. By claying you're vehicle, you'll remove the embedded contamination and allow your polishes, sealant and wax to perform it's best.
2. Since my car is only 2 months old do I really need something as abrasive as SIP or IP with orange pad? The paint looks good and feels smooth but I am starting to see swirls all over. There nothing crazy just enough to make me crazy! Damn dealer!!! LoL
Depends on how deep the swirls are, can't really say without a picture of the imperfections. Whether you use it now or in the future, it's nice to have a more aggressive polish option handy because sooner or later you'll get someone who dings you in a parking lot, with a shopping cart, etc.
3. I looked at the PC polisher on your site and saw that you have a starter kit. I know you need the backplate to use pads but why the 6 inch counter weight?
The counter weight helps cut down on vibrations from using a 6" backing plate, like the one we sell. The PC will still vibrate, but slightly less with the appropriate counter weight. Less vibrations = a less tired arm and slightly longer durability from your PC.
4. Are the pads easy to clean or should you just order new ones with each use?
New pads each detail would become very expensive! If you use the pads properly, they are very easy to clean. When polishing, I use about 3 pads per coat, swapping them out about 1/3rd of the way through the vehicle for a fresh one. By doing this you help keep the consistency of your polishing and prolong the life of your pads. The other alternative is to take a brush, like a toothbrush and after every panel or so, try to clean out the pads as best you can by running the buffer on the brush. The cleaner the pad the better your polish will perform and the better your results. Many detailers use 1 pad per coat and wonder why at the end the results aren't as good as when they started. A saturated pad can diminish results.
5. Is there any advantage to apply/take off polish/wax with the RO Polishers? I would usualy put on and take off by hand...
Nope, you'd only create more problems if anything. The bonnets some places sell to put on top of the pads are not effective and you can't exactly reach every area of the vehicle. Again, I use about 3 - 4 clean microfiber towels per coat I remove when I detail, so imagine how many bonnets would be needed, considering you can fold a MF towel into 1/4th's and effectively get 8 clean sides out of it.
6. I plan on washing, clay barin, washing, polishing (undecided if this needs to be a 1 or 2 step), then Z5 2-3 times and Z2 1-2 times, wait 24 hours and wax with Natty Blue, fallowed by a gloss enhancer Z-6-Z-8.. This sound good? Keep in mind I love Zaino products espically sealents.
Sounds like a great plan.
7. Does Natty Blue add more protection/look better with multiple coats?
I find that 2 - 3 coats spaced at least 12 hours apart (waxes usually have shorter cure times than sealants) achieves maximum results. Beyond 3 coats, you reach a point of diminishing returns. Protection wise, the added protection is pretty minimal, but you'll achieve more of an even coverage and enhance the depth and gloss a little bit.
8. As far as washing I think im going to go with the 2 bucket 2 glove method with grit guard. Seems to make the most sense to me.. Im not going to go for the RO water filter its pretty expensive plus the coast of use is high with filter refills.. Maybe Ill get 2 gallons of destilled water and pour down my car...
Ok im done for now.. Thanx for the replys I will def order what I need that you have from your site!
Regards,
George
03-31-2008, 08:44 PM
#438
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Ok here some more 
1. How do you clean the pads? You mentioned the tooth brush but that more during the detail how about when you are done? Im sure you need to get all polish of so it doesnt dry/cake on...
2. Ok so microfibers make good polish/wax/sealent removers can you wash these after detail? If so what would be proper steps?
3. Ok we talked about clay/sealents/waxes what about glaze? What exactly is it and where does it belong in the detail process if anywhere?
Thank you for all the advice! Im sure it will be a sucess too with all this knowledge I might be dangerous tho!!!
1. How do you clean the pads? You mentioned the tooth brush but that more during the detail how about when you are done? Im sure you need to get all polish of so it doesnt dry/cake on...
2. Ok so microfibers make good polish/wax/sealent removers can you wash these after detail? If so what would be proper steps?
3. Ok we talked about clay/sealents/waxes what about glaze? What exactly is it and where does it belong in the detail process if anywhere?
Thank you for all the advice! Im sure it will be a sucess too with all this knowledge I might be dangerous tho!!!
04-01-2008, 12:52 PM
#440
Ok here some more
1. How do you clean the pads? You mentioned the tooth brush but that more during the detail how about when you are done? Im sure you need to get all polish of so it doesnt dry/cake on...
I let them soak in a 5 gallon bucket with some Snappy Clean solution. It's a citrus degreaser that helps remove product from the pads. I massage the pads with my thumbs while they are soaking to get as much product out, then let them air dry. After they are dry, I recommend storing them in Ziploc bags so dust and debris doesn't settle onto them. I usually dry them face down on a towel or something absorbent.
2. Ok so microfibers make good polish/wax/sealent removers can you wash these after detail? If so what would be proper steps?
Here's a thorough writeup on how to properly care for your microfiber.
3. Ok we talked about clay/sealents/waxes what about glaze? What exactly is it and where does it belong in the detail process if anywhere?
Glaze comes in between polishing and sealing. What it's designed to do is add a layer of depth and gloss, while filling in some minor imperfections. Personally, I recommend our customers spend more time on the polishing stage as those results are permanent rather than temporary from a glaze, but a glaze has it's place. I recommend using one on show cars, lighter colored vehicles to get additional pop, special occasions or if you're just going for the absolute best finish. I have a new glaze coming in at the end of the week that works well under sealants. Certain glazes, usually ones with more oil than clay, can hinder the bonding of a sealant onto the paint, which is part of the reason I don't recommend them all the time.
Thank you for all the advice! Im sure it will be a sucess too with all this knowledge I might be dangerous tho!!!
1. How do you clean the pads? You mentioned the tooth brush but that more during the detail how about when you are done? Im sure you need to get all polish of so it doesnt dry/cake on...
I let them soak in a 5 gallon bucket with some Snappy Clean solution. It's a citrus degreaser that helps remove product from the pads. I massage the pads with my thumbs while they are soaking to get as much product out, then let them air dry. After they are dry, I recommend storing them in Ziploc bags so dust and debris doesn't settle onto them. I usually dry them face down on a towel or something absorbent.
2. Ok so microfibers make good polish/wax/sealent removers can you wash these after detail? If so what would be proper steps?
Here's a thorough writeup on how to properly care for your microfiber.
3. Ok we talked about clay/sealents/waxes what about glaze? What exactly is it and where does it belong in the detail process if anywhere?
Glaze comes in between polishing and sealing. What it's designed to do is add a layer of depth and gloss, while filling in some minor imperfections. Personally, I recommend our customers spend more time on the polishing stage as those results are permanent rather than temporary from a glaze, but a glaze has it's place. I recommend using one on show cars, lighter colored vehicles to get additional pop, special occasions or if you're just going for the absolute best finish. I have a new glaze coming in at the end of the week that works well under sealants. Certain glazes, usually ones with more oil than clay, can hinder the bonding of a sealant onto the paint, which is part of the reason I don't recommend them all the time.
Thank you for all the advice! Im sure it will be a sucess too with all this knowledge I might be dangerous tho!!!
04-01-2008, 02:12 PM
#441
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^ you hit the nail on the head on how to restore exhaust tips... See metal polishing I do know about LOL.. Many motorcycle frames done by hand..
Depending on how bad they are with rust/dirt/carbon ect. If not to bad then like George said wash tips well with soap and water, then use WET 000 grade steel wool fallowed by 0000 WET steel wool. Then rinse off tip and dry them. Then use Mother Bullit Aluminum polish and work it in with a applicator till you get the finish you want.. If you still arent happy then you may need to start wet sanding with 1500 grit then 2000 grit fallowed by some compound metal polished then start with the steel steel wool and polish.. Hope this helps!
George ill be placing an order today or tomorrow is the 10offG37 still work? Thanx
Depending on how bad they are with rust/dirt/carbon ect. If not to bad then like George said wash tips well with soap and water, then use WET 000 grade steel wool fallowed by 0000 WET steel wool. Then rinse off tip and dry them. Then use Mother Bullit Aluminum polish and work it in with a applicator till you get the finish you want.. If you still arent happy then you may need to start wet sanding with 1500 grit then 2000 grit fallowed by some compound metal polished then start with the steel steel wool and polish.. Hope this helps!
George ill be placing an order today or tomorrow is the 10offG37 still work? Thanx
04-01-2008, 02:37 PM
#442
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One last thing. What is the best way to care for the sheepskin mitts? I used them this weekend and just rinsed them out and ringed them out and let them air dry. Is there anything in particular I should do?
04-03-2008, 06:39 PM
#444
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Hey George,
I need some advice regarding removing tree sap. I was able to remove tree sap on the body of the car, but for some reason on the windshield the tree sap will not come off. Do I have to scrap it? If so what would I use to not damage the windshield? I am scared of messing up the glass.
Thanks.
I need some advice regarding removing tree sap. I was able to remove tree sap on the body of the car, but for some reason on the windshield the tree sap will not come off. Do I have to scrap it? If so what would I use to not damage the windshield? I am scared of messing up the glass.
Thanks.
04-03-2008, 07:39 PM
#445
Hey George,
I need some advice regarding removing tree sap. I was able to remove tree sap on the body of the car, but for some reason on the windshield the tree sap will not come off. Do I have to scrap it? If so what would I use to not damage the windshield? I am scared of messing up the glass.
Thanks.
I need some advice regarding removing tree sap. I was able to remove tree sap on the body of the car, but for some reason on the windshield the tree sap will not come off. Do I have to scrap it? If so what would I use to not damage the windshield? I am scared of messing up the glass.
Thanks.
Hope this helps.
George
04-05-2008, 04:48 PM
#446
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George,
Ive purchased a few MF towels from you to use for quick detailing. After I'm done with them and it really isnt a big enough load to throw in the wash what should I do with them? I know that you arent supposed to let the product dry on the towel so what I've been doing is just soaking them in a bucket of water until I use enough to wash them, sometimes leaving them in the water for days. Any thoughts?
Ive purchased a few MF towels from you to use for quick detailing. After I'm done with them and it really isnt a big enough load to throw in the wash what should I do with them? I know that you arent supposed to let the product dry on the towel so what I've been doing is just soaking them in a bucket of water until I use enough to wash them, sometimes leaving them in the water for days. Any thoughts?
04-05-2008, 08:44 PM
#447
two questions;
how do i clean and dry the waffle mf towel i bought from you
how do i clean and dry my sheepskin wash mit i got from you.
sorry for no punc. and being brief, im on a phone
how do i clean and dry the waffle mf towel i bought from you
how do i clean and dry my sheepskin wash mit i got from you.
sorry for no punc. and being brief, im on a phone
04-06-2008, 01:38 AM
#448
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Ok I just ordered! WoW I just kept adding things to the shopping cart like nothing ha ha. Im going to do a 2 step as my car looked like crap today in sun 
I hope the stuff you recomended is as good as you say it is.. I went with IP and P0106FF and Orange and white pads... I will take before and after pic's.. Thanx again!
I hope the stuff you recomended is as good as you say it is.. I went with IP and P0106FF and Orange and white pads... I will take before and after pic's.. Thanx again!
04-06-2008, 10:55 AM
#449
George,
Ive purchased a few MF towels from you to use for quick detailing. After I'm done with them and it really isnt a big enough load to throw in the wash what should I do with them? I know that you arent supposed to let the product dry on the towel so what I've been doing is just soaking them in a bucket of water until I use enough to wash them, sometimes leaving them in the water for days. Any thoughts?
Ive purchased a few MF towels from you to use for quick detailing. After I'm done with them and it really isnt a big enough load to throw in the wash what should I do with them? I know that you arent supposed to let the product dry on the towel so what I've been doing is just soaking them in a bucket of water until I use enough to wash them, sometimes leaving them in the water for days. Any thoughts?
two questions;
how do i clean and dry the waffle mf towel i bought from you
Here's a complete guide on how we recommend caring for microfiber products.
how do i clean and dry my sheepskin wash mit i got from you.
Rinse with cool water from your hose or whatever to help release contamination, then let it air dry. If you have one of our latest sheepskin mitts they have a hoop near the cuff, perfect for hanging them.
sorry for no punc. and being brief, im on a phone
how do i clean and dry the waffle mf towel i bought from you
Here's a complete guide on how we recommend caring for microfiber products.
how do i clean and dry my sheepskin wash mit i got from you.
Rinse with cool water from your hose or whatever to help release contamination, then let it air dry. If you have one of our latest sheepskin mitts they have a hoop near the cuff, perfect for hanging them.
sorry for no punc. and being brief, im on a phone
Ok I just ordered! WoW I just kept adding things to the shopping cart like nothing ha ha. Im going to do a 2 step as my car looked like crap today in sun I hope the stuff you recomended is as good as you say it is.. I went with IP and P0106FF and Orange and white pads... I will take before and after pic's.. Thanx again!
I hope the stuff you recomended is as good as you say it is.. I went with IP and P0106FF and Orange and white pads... I will take before and after pic's.. Thanx again!George