Ask a Professional Detailer... Brought to you by Detailed Image
03-04-2008, 03:00 AM
#407
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In terms of using blue painter's tape, it can help to avoid wax build-up along the edge so removing it and later carefully doing the edges is a good idea 
. Whether you need to use another type of wax for the clear bra might depend on the wax and bra, but my guess is you don't, I'll leave this one for a pro to answer 
.
A polish is not necessary if you don't have any imperfections like scratches and swirls etc. There are different grits of polish just like sand paper can have different grits. Typical off-the-shelf polishes are not that abrasive so doesn't remove much clear coat; thus, they are appropriate for the most minor scratches.
Stronger polishes require some knowledge for the best results. If you are familiar with how sanding works, it's a similar concept. You progressively need to use finer sand paper to remove the coarseness of grittier sand paper. For vehicles, one difference is the finite amount of clear coat, so avoid using a grittier one if you don't need to. Use the finest possible, if it doesn't remove the scratches, swirls, etc., go a grade coarser then work back down to a finer one.
A sealant will add a layer of protectant that usually lasts much longer than a wax. You can add a layer of wax on top of a sealant, some people do prefer the look of wax
. You can also just add wax, but you need to re-apply very often to keep the protection which is a lot of work 
.
Blot dry method and blowing are generally considered better than using the long stroke method ... we're still talking cars
. If a wash leaves the car absolutely clean, you can use long strokes because the waffle weave is cushy and absorbs the water so gives a little flexibility even if the water still has minerals. Some places have "hard" water meaning the tap water has more minerals in it than other places 
.
To be safer, you can use a blot dry method
rather than use strokes. A larger waffle weave towel is better for the blot dry method. Another way is to use a blower 
, but it is debatable 
whether it's better than blot drying because you are still blowing water drops that may contain minerals. It's also blowing whatever air is around the car, so if it's dirty air 
, you end up doing a very low-level type of sand blasting. Obviously, this is an exaggeration to demonstrate the point, it's still one of the better methods 
.
This is just my misguided illustration on car detailing, for whatever it's worth. After all, you have to remember to have fun, your car loves to be caressed
.
. Whether you need to use another type of wax for the clear bra might depend on the wax and bra, but my guess is you don't, I'll leave this one for a pro to answer .A polish is not necessary if you don't have any imperfections like scratches and swirls etc. There are different grits of polish just like sand paper can have different grits. Typical off-the-shelf polishes are not that abrasive so doesn't remove much clear coat; thus, they are appropriate for the most minor scratches.
Stronger polishes require some knowledge for the best results. If you are familiar with how sanding works, it's a similar concept. You progressively need to use finer sand paper to remove the coarseness of grittier sand paper. For vehicles, one difference is the finite amount of clear coat, so avoid using a grittier one if you don't need to. Use the finest possible, if it doesn't remove the scratches, swirls, etc., go a grade coarser then work back down to a finer one.
A sealant will add a layer of protectant that usually lasts much longer than a wax. You can add a layer of wax on top of a sealant, some people do prefer the look of wax
. You can also just add wax, but you need to re-apply very often to keep the protection which is a lot of work .Blot dry method and blowing are generally considered better than using the long stroke method ... we're still talking cars
. If a wash leaves the car absolutely clean, you can use long strokes because the waffle weave is cushy and absorbs the water so gives a little flexibility even if the water still has minerals. Some places have "hard" water meaning the tap water has more minerals in it than other places .To be safer, you can use a blot dry method
rather than use strokes. A larger waffle weave towel is better for the blot dry method. Another way is to use a blower , but it is debatable whether it's better than blot drying because you are still blowing water drops that may contain minerals. It's also blowing whatever air is around the car, so if it's dirty air , you end up doing a very low-level type of sand blasting. Obviously, this is an exaggeration to demonstrate the point, it's still one of the better methods .This is just my misguided illustration on car detailing, for whatever it's worth. After all, you have to remember to have fun, your car loves to be caressed
.
03-04-2008, 09:52 AM
#408
LoL nice illustrations. 
My waffle weave and sheep skin mit are coming in this week. I've been using the absorber which does an ok job, but not great by any means. I've also been using a manaul spray wash as I'm living in an apartment atm and haven't had a warm enough day to break it down in the lot. This June I'll have my house with a few other guys so then I'll be able to wax more often. How much does the sealant cause the wax to shine "less"? I do love the look of wax, but I guess I'll have to see just how much shine is lost with sealant.
As for the polish, if I look at my car from an angle with some sunlight, I do see some swirls in the paint. I was thinking of using the standard low grit polish from the DI place to hopefully get most of it out.
My more important question was, someone detail the correct use of the porter cable orbital buffer everyone is talking about. How exactly do I use it??
My waffle weave and sheep skin mit are coming in this week. I've been using the absorber which does an ok job, but not great by any means. I've also been using a manaul spray wash as I'm living in an apartment atm and haven't had a warm enough day to break it down in the lot. This June I'll have my house with a few other guys so then I'll be able to wax more often. How much does the sealant cause the wax to shine "less"? I do love the look of wax, but I guess I'll have to see just how much shine is lost with sealant.
As for the polish, if I look at my car from an angle with some sunlight, I do see some swirls in the paint. I was thinking of using the standard low grit polish from the DI place to hopefully get most of it out.
My more important question was, someone detail the correct use of the porter cable orbital buffer everyone is talking about. How exactly do I use it??
03-04-2008, 02:53 PM
#409
Sorry if this has been asked before, but I am looking for a fairly straight forward detail that takes at most 3 hours on a weekend. I've never used anything but turtle wax and the applier it comes for so I'm new to the idea of the porter cable.
First off, do you just apply way to the porter cable then go at a section of the car, with no special hand movements, and no worry that if you held it in one spot for say, 10sec longer then another spot, it would look weird?
The PC will make your product applications, specifically polishes, go a lot smoother and be more uniform. It's very difficult to apply the same amount of pressure by hand coat after coat after coat. You are more or less guiding the buffer in small 18" x 18" sections. There's a great site to get an idea on how to properly use the PC, Paintcare-n-Detailing.com . Here's a direct link to how you use the PC properly with Menzerna polishes.
Second, with a clear bra do you just use blue painters tape and overlap the clear bra say 1/2 inch, and then use two types of wax for the car/bra.
This would be the safest way to ensure you do not get product stuck on the edging of the clear bra. For clear bra's, I usually recommend using a non-abrasive chemical polish with protection, like Klasse AIO or Poorboy's Polish with Sealant, or you can just protect it after a wash with something like 303 Aerospace Protectant or Plexus Plastic Cleaner, Polish and Protectant.
Third, after you are done getting all the areas with wax do you take the tape off and hand apply as close to the border of the clear bra/paint as possible?
That's up to you. Probably a better method is to use the 1/2" painter tape and just overlap the edge of the clear bra by a few millimeters if possible. Then you can polish, seal, wax right up to the tape and not worry about residue when you remove it.
Fourth, my rubber sealant around the sunroof ( the tube like thing ) is already showing some fading, should I get this replaced or is there something I can do that will make it perfect again.
You can use products to restore the color, but almost all of these are temporary fixes and need to be reapplied every so often to maintain the deep rich color. If you are looking for a product to restore the trim, something like Poorboy's World Trim Restorer is a great product to bring life back to rubber. Again it's temporary, but it works well. For other trim that hasn't begun to fade, I'd highly recommend looking into 303 Aerospace Protectant as a UV protectant that nourishes rubber and keeps it soft and flexible, while protecting it from UV fading.
I know I've got a lot of questions but this is my new baby and I've yet to properly wax a car before. Feel free to recommend I either wax/seal/whatever else because I don't know which is best. I live in KC so its pretty all-season around here. I'm thinking a good polish, seal/wax would work, I'm not sure I need a glaze. Do the sealant/wax combinations work good? I do want the car to shine.
You may want to look into our Polish and Protection Starter Kit. This will give you the right products to prep your vehicle with a clay bar, two levels of polish, a quality sealant and a nice carnauba wax. This combination of products offers excellent paint correction, great protection and excellent depth and gloss. All these products are easy to use. We did just get in a 16oz PO106FF that isn't on our site yet. It should be up by the end of the week, but this would be the next step up from the Final Polish II finishing polish in the starter kit.
Also, last question, when drying with your waffle weave, what is the correct method. Do you do long strokes in a fairly straight line, then folder the towel to an un-used surface and repeat if there is still some amount of water?
Before you touch anything to your paint, I'd highly recommend utilizing the sheeting method on your vehicle. After drying as much as you can using the sheeting method, then I recommend blot drying with the waffle weave drying towel. After that, I will go over the vehicle with a quick detailer and a plush microfiber towel to soak up any remaining water drops.
First off, do you just apply way to the porter cable then go at a section of the car, with no special hand movements, and no worry that if you held it in one spot for say, 10sec longer then another spot, it would look weird?
The PC will make your product applications, specifically polishes, go a lot smoother and be more uniform. It's very difficult to apply the same amount of pressure by hand coat after coat after coat. You are more or less guiding the buffer in small 18" x 18" sections. There's a great site to get an idea on how to properly use the PC, Paintcare-n-Detailing.com . Here's a direct link to how you use the PC properly with Menzerna polishes.
Second, with a clear bra do you just use blue painters tape and overlap the clear bra say 1/2 inch, and then use two types of wax for the car/bra.
This would be the safest way to ensure you do not get product stuck on the edging of the clear bra. For clear bra's, I usually recommend using a non-abrasive chemical polish with protection, like Klasse AIO or Poorboy's Polish with Sealant, or you can just protect it after a wash with something like 303 Aerospace Protectant or Plexus Plastic Cleaner, Polish and Protectant.
Third, after you are done getting all the areas with wax do you take the tape off and hand apply as close to the border of the clear bra/paint as possible?
That's up to you. Probably a better method is to use the 1/2" painter tape and just overlap the edge of the clear bra by a few millimeters if possible. Then you can polish, seal, wax right up to the tape and not worry about residue when you remove it.
Fourth, my rubber sealant around the sunroof ( the tube like thing ) is already showing some fading, should I get this replaced or is there something I can do that will make it perfect again.
You can use products to restore the color, but almost all of these are temporary fixes and need to be reapplied every so often to maintain the deep rich color. If you are looking for a product to restore the trim, something like Poorboy's World Trim Restorer is a great product to bring life back to rubber. Again it's temporary, but it works well. For other trim that hasn't begun to fade, I'd highly recommend looking into 303 Aerospace Protectant as a UV protectant that nourishes rubber and keeps it soft and flexible, while protecting it from UV fading.
I know I've got a lot of questions but this is my new baby and I've yet to properly wax a car before. Feel free to recommend I either wax/seal/whatever else because I don't know which is best. I live in KC so its pretty all-season around here. I'm thinking a good polish, seal/wax would work, I'm not sure I need a glaze. Do the sealant/wax combinations work good? I do want the car to shine.
You may want to look into our Polish and Protection Starter Kit. This will give you the right products to prep your vehicle with a clay bar, two levels of polish, a quality sealant and a nice carnauba wax. This combination of products offers excellent paint correction, great protection and excellent depth and gloss. All these products are easy to use. We did just get in a 16oz PO106FF that isn't on our site yet. It should be up by the end of the week, but this would be the next step up from the Final Polish II finishing polish in the starter kit.
Also, last question, when drying with your waffle weave, what is the correct method. Do you do long strokes in a fairly straight line, then folder the towel to an un-used surface and repeat if there is still some amount of water?
Before you touch anything to your paint, I'd highly recommend utilizing the sheeting method on your vehicle. After drying as much as you can using the sheeting method, then I recommend blot drying with the waffle weave drying towel. After that, I will go over the vehicle with a quick detailer and a plush microfiber towel to soak up any remaining water drops.
Great summary SilkeG. Everything you said was right on point and was easy to understand. The only thing I'd mention with the more aggressive polishes is that beyond using a finishing polish, I recommend using a quality buffer to work in the heavier cutting polishes or compounds. Two great options are the Porter Cable 7424 or the Flex XC3401VRG.
LoL nice illustrations.
My waffle weave and sheep skin mit are coming in this week. I've been using the absorber which does an ok job, but not great by any means. I've also been using a manaul spray wash as I'm living in an apartment atm and haven't had a warm enough day to break it down in the lot. This June I'll have my house with a few other guys so then I'll be able to wax more often. How much does the sealant cause the wax to shine "less"? I do love the look of wax, but I guess I'll have to see just how much shine is lost with sealant.
Sealants won't make the car shine less, in fact sealants, typically make the vehicle reflect and shine more. Waxes on the other hand give off more depth and gloss, more of the wet look rather than mirror look. Some people prefer the look of a sealant over the wax or vice versa. I personally love the look of a natural carnauba wax so I try to reapply a coat once a month.
As for the polish, if I look at my car from an angle with some sunlight, I do see some swirls in the paint. I was thinking of using the standard low grit polish from the DI place to hopefully get most of it out.
I'd highly recommend looking into the PO106FF polish from Menzerna. As I said earlier, we just got it in the 16oz size and between starting this reply and now, I entered it in our system.
My more important question was, someone detail the correct use of the porter cable orbital buffer everyone is talking about. How exactly do I use it??
Make sure you check out the video link I posted above, this will help a lot. You can also read our polishing guide which walks you through how to properly use the PC as well.
My waffle weave and sheep skin mit are coming in this week. I've been using the absorber which does an ok job, but not great by any means. I've also been using a manaul spray wash as I'm living in an apartment atm and haven't had a warm enough day to break it down in the lot. This June I'll have my house with a few other guys so then I'll be able to wax more often. How much does the sealant cause the wax to shine "less"? I do love the look of wax, but I guess I'll have to see just how much shine is lost with sealant.
Sealants won't make the car shine less, in fact sealants, typically make the vehicle reflect and shine more. Waxes on the other hand give off more depth and gloss, more of the wet look rather than mirror look. Some people prefer the look of a sealant over the wax or vice versa. I personally love the look of a natural carnauba wax so I try to reapply a coat once a month.
As for the polish, if I look at my car from an angle with some sunlight, I do see some swirls in the paint. I was thinking of using the standard low grit polish from the DI place to hopefully get most of it out.
I'd highly recommend looking into the PO106FF polish from Menzerna. As I said earlier, we just got it in the 16oz size and between starting this reply and now, I entered it in our system.
My more important question was, someone detail the correct use of the porter cable orbital buffer everyone is talking about. How exactly do I use it??
Make sure you check out the video link I posted above, this will help a lot. You can also read our polishing guide which walks you through how to properly use the PC as well.
George
03-06-2008, 12:09 PM
#411
Thanks for the information. I read the how to for the PC and watched the video. Do I need a glaze at this point, or just lightest polish then sealant/wax? I assume I use the same method for the PC on the sealant/wax as well ( 18x18 area, left to right, 50% overlap ). I imagine its going to take me 4-5hours to do the whole vehicle 3 times ( polish, sealant, wax) Yikes..
I also noticed he taped off the 18 by 18 section, that would take way too much time for me. I'm thinking I could get away with slightly larger sections and only taping off the clear bra and any trim, taillights, etc. I guess after each coat (polish, sealant, wax) I have to use a MF towel to wipe off the extra residue?
I also noticed he taped off the 18 by 18 section, that would take way too much time for me. I'm thinking I could get away with slightly larger sections and only taping off the clear bra and any trim, taillights, etc. I guess after each coat (polish, sealant, wax) I have to use a MF towel to wipe off the extra residue?
Last edited by GregUMR; 03-06-2008 at 12:15 PM.
03-06-2008, 01:32 PM
#412
Thanks for the information. I read the how to for the PC and watched the video. Do I need a glaze at this point, or just lightest polish then sealant/wax? I assume I use the same method for the PC on the sealant/wax as well ( 18x18 area, left to right, 50% overlap ). I imagine its going to take me 4-5hours to do the whole vehicle 3 times ( polish, sealant, wax) Yikes..
I also noticed he taped off the 18 by 18 section, that would take way too much time for me. I'm thinking I could get away with slightly larger sections and only taping off the clear bra and any trim, taillights, etc. I guess after each coat (polish, sealant, wax) I have to use a MF towel to wipe off the extra residue?
I also noticed he taped off the 18 by 18 section, that would take way too much time for me. I'm thinking I could get away with slightly larger sections and only taping off the clear bra and any trim, taillights, etc. I guess after each coat (polish, sealant, wax) I have to use a MF towel to wipe off the extra residue?
He was taping off the 18" x 18" section to illustrate the differences between the completed area and the non-completed area. I'd recommend taping off: trim, emblems, clear bra, and cover the part of your windows where the rubber meets the window so that no product gets in there and streaks your windows. Until you get the hang of it, to play it safe you'll probably tape off more your first few times polishing and you may feel more comfortable as you get more experienced with the buffer.
A glaze can help hide some imperfections and enhance the finish of the vehicle. Is it necessary? No. I usually recommend spending more time polishing to actually remove imperfections than use a glaze. If you're looking to enhance your results, it's an extra step you can do for a little more depth and gloss.
If you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to ask.
George
03-06-2008, 01:34 PM
#413
Hope this helps.
George
03-06-2008, 02:03 PM
#414
So a good carnauba wax doesn't get applied with the PC? I figured that would make waxing the car a lot easier. If I only need the PC for the sealant I'm not so sure its worth it. As far as polishing, I'd want to do that as little as possible so maybe I shouldn't polish but 1 time a year.
03-06-2008, 02:51 PM
#415
So a good carnauba wax doesn't get applied with the PC? I figured that would make waxing the car a lot easier. If I only need the PC for the sealant I'm not so sure its worth it. As far as polishing, I'd want to do that as little as possible so maybe I shouldn't polish but 1 time a year.
Most sealants and waxes should be a breeze to apply and remove when applied correctly. Many enthusiasts over apply these products creating more work when it comes to removing them. I can usually apply and remove a coat of paste wax in about a half hour on a mid sized vehicle. Keep in mind when applying a sealant or wax, you're just spreading the product over the surface, not working it into the paint. Only a microscopic layer bonds to the paint, so thinner the better.
Hope this helps clear some things up for you.
George
03-06-2008, 05:05 PM
#416
That indeed does clear things up quite a bit. I was one of those that would spend hours putting on a hand coat of wax.
As for polishing, on a a new car I'd think I want to keep it to a minimum, like I was thinking 1 time a year with a finishing polish. Is that true?
As for polishing, on a a new car I'd think I want to keep it to a minimum, like I was thinking 1 time a year with a finishing polish. Is that true?
03-06-2008, 05:29 PM
#417
If you spend the time learning the best ways to minimize adding future imperfections and always keep a coat of sealant or wax on your paint, then polishing once a year may be all you need. The best thing you can do is master the proper washing and drying techniques as this is where a majority of imperfections come from.
Let me know if there's anything else I may be able to help you with.
George
03-07-2008, 10:38 AM
#418
Great information again, thanks George.
I get very few imperfections, but they are like these lines that swirl but very slowly. Like a long stroked swirl (15inches long). I've got a few of them, sparsely laid out across the car. They are no doubt due to me using the absorber drying cloth and not washing the car properly with a soap and sheepskin, and instead just spray washing. You can't see them unless the light hits it right and you get up close and look at the right angle.
Would you say a nice finish polish would take those right out?
I get very few imperfections, but they are like these lines that swirl but very slowly. Like a long stroked swirl (15inches long). I've got a few of them, sparsely laid out across the car. They are no doubt due to me using the absorber drying cloth and not washing the car properly with a soap and sheepskin, and instead just spray washing. You can't see them unless the light hits it right and you get up close and look at the right angle.
Would you say a nice finish polish would take those right out?
03-07-2008, 10:56 AM
#419
Great information again, thanks George.
I get very few imperfections, but they are like these lines that swirl but very slowly. Like a long stroked swirl (15inches long). I've got a few of them, sparsely laid out across the car. They are no doubt due to me using the absorber drying cloth and not washing the car properly with a soap and sheepskin, and instead just spray washing. You can't see them unless the light hits it right and you get up close and look at the right angle.
Would you say a nice finish polish would take those right out?
I get very few imperfections, but they are like these lines that swirl but very slowly. Like a long stroked swirl (15inches long). I've got a few of them, sparsely laid out across the car. They are no doubt due to me using the absorber drying cloth and not washing the car properly with a soap and sheepskin, and instead just spray washing. You can't see them unless the light hits it right and you get up close and look at the right angle.
Would you say a nice finish polish would take those right out?
Keep us posted on what you end up going with and how things turn out for you.
George @ Detailed Image