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iTrader: (2)

I usually will try using some quick detailer or some Isopropyl Alcohol diluted with distilled water and a plush microfiber towel. You can try using a very soft brush, but it may mar the finish a little if you work it in. The good news is you'd only see the slight marring if you removed the clear bra.

Hope this helps.

George

GiGGaplease

what is your advice on removing rock chips and scatches? buff it out?

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iTrader: (2)

If the rock chip or scratch is past the paint and you can see primer, the only thing you can do is touch it up or get that panel repainted. If the imperfection is just in the clear coat, then you can attempt to buff them out with an abrasive polish. Most rock chips need to be touched up or repainted to properly fix though. If you'd like to take a picture of the area on your vehicle you are talking about, I'd be happy to give further assessment.

George

GiGGaplease

ohk, thanks. i will if i can find my sister's camera.

MaxToTheG37

iTrader: (3)

what do you think about a squigy? (sp)
the jelly ones or whatever...?

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iTrader: (2)

Big no-no in my book, and this is why we do not sell them. You might not think you are doing damage to your paint, but dragging anything across your paint will eventually cause damage. Here's a great example of what you can do your paint in a short period of time:

Water Blade Damage

If you always have a protective coat on your paint and you practice the sheeting method before drying, there isn't much water left behind to remove when drying. For what's left, you are much better off using a paint safe waffle weave drying towel and safely blotting the remaining bits of water on your vehicle. This will help minimize adding imperfections to your paint and keeping your vehicle looking newer longer.

If you have any other questions, let me know.

George

MaxToTheG37

iTrader: (3)

Thats awesome.
I was looking for a quicker easier way to dry and seen those at the store... glad i didnt get one.
I just did the water sheet method on my lat wash for the first time... I was amazed.
I guess I can always use an air compressor to blow the water off?
is there anything bad with that?

thanks again!

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iTrader: (2)

That's great, most people who use the sheeting method don't mind drying as much afterwards. Air compressors are ok, but each method will have it's pros and cons. Some will argue that you can easily kick up dirt and contamination from the wind, or if you push stubborn contamination across your paint with enough pressure it can leave behind marring or scratches. I think air compressors / leaf blowers work well for blowing out cracks and seems, but I still resort to blot drying with a quality waffle weave to remove any remaining water after using the sheeting method.

Is using compressed air more effective than a water blade, certainly!

Hope this helps.

George

RedlineSi

George,

I am trying to decide where to go with my car once it warms up a bit here. I just got the car a month ago, but I will probably wait till March/April until I get really down and dirty. I have hears both the pros and cons of a wax or sealant, but what would you recommend for a Platinum Graphite G. I was leaning towards a sealant from what I have read, but I am no expert.

]\[ /-\ ]\/[

iTrader: (3)

y not do both?

i did sealant on my black G than wax on top....i believe dark colored cars shine best with wax only, no sealant but on a platinum graphite, i think u'll be good with both...sealant first, then wax

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iTrader: (2)

I agree with NAM. We recommend applying both a sealant and a wax to your paint for the best of both worlds. Sealants will provide durable protection for 3 ~ 6 months (pending on weather conditions, miles driven, stored in a garage or outside, how frequently the vehicle gets washed, etc.). You sealant will be your underlying coat of protection and add some shine to the paint. Before applying a second coat or deciding to top it with a wax, you’ll want to allow 24 hours for the sealant to cure. This means apply a coat, remove it, and wait 24 hours before applying anything else. This time allows your sealant to properly crosslink and bond to your clear coat.

Adding a wax on top will not only add another layer of protection to your paint, but it will also enhance the depth and gloss, giving it more of that wet look. Waxes tend to bead water better than sealants, which makes future cleanings even easier, and the protection often protects better (although for shorter periods of time) against things like water spots, bird dropping etchings, and much more.

A great combo to go with would be Poorboy's EX-P sealant and Natty's Red Paste Wax (or the Blue Paste Wax). Poorboy's products are arguably one of the best bang for the bucks for higher quality detailing products. They are easy to use, durable, and have a great look to them.

If you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to ask.

George

RedlineSi

Sounds good, thanks for the info. Expect a big order from me in the next few months!

RedlineSi

So, I was in a parking garage the other day with a lot of UV light, and I saw some small swirls already in my car, and I haven't even touched it yet. I am thinking it was from the dealership when they prepped my car....great huh? Anyways, as soon as it gets a little nicer, I want to get a PC and take care of it. I plan on using the EX-P and Natty's combo you mentioned, but as far as a polish, school me on Menzerna PO106FF. From what I've read it's good stuff and sounds like you don't need a finishing polish. Would a wash, claybar, Menzerna PO106FF, EX-P and Natty's get my car looking top notch?

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iTrader: (2)

Bummer about the new vehicle already having some swirls. Chances are they were from the dealership prep as you mentioned. The PC + PO106FF would be a great combo to go with to rid the imperfections. The prep work is where you get most of your results and you won't be disappointed with the results the PO106FF gives you. There's no need to use any polish after the PO106FF since it is one of the finest finishing polish on the market.

Poorboy's combo is a great way to protect your paint and give it additional depth and gloss. It's easy to use and a great value.

If you wanted some more pop to the paint, you could try stepping up to the P21S Pure Carnauba Wax or Pinnacle Souveran. Each wax has their pros and cons. Your last step is where you can really tweak your finish. If you'd like any more details on the different waxes, just let me know. For the money, you won't be disappointed with the Poorboy's combo though.

George

GregUMR

Sorry if this has been asked before, but I am looking for a fairly straight forward detail that takes at most 3 hours on a weekend. I've never used anything but turtle wax and the applier it comes for so I'm new to the idea of the porter cable.

First off, do you just apply way to the porter cable then go at a section of the car, with no special hand movements, and no worry that if you held it in one spot for say, 10sec longer then another spot, it would look weird?

Second, with a clear bra do you just use blue painters tape and overlap the clear bra say 1/2 inch, and then use two types of wax for the car/bra.

Third, after you are done getting all the areas with wax do you take the tape off and hand apply as close to the border of the clear bra/paint as possible?

Fourth, my rubber sealant around the sunroof ( the tube like thing ) is already showing some fading, should I get this replaced or is there something I can do that will make it perfect again.

I know I've got a lot of questions but this is my new baby and I've yet to properly wax a car before. Feel free to recommend I either wax/seal/whatever else because I don't know which is best. I live in KC so its pretty all-season around here. I'm thinking a good polish, seal/wax would work, I'm not sure I need a glaze. Do the sealant/wax combinations work good? I do want the car to shine.

Also, last question, when drying with your waffle weave, what is the correct method. Do you do long strokes in a fairly straight line, then folder the towel to an un-used surface and repeat if there is still some amount of water?