Ask a Professional Detailer... Brought to you by Detailed Image
#391
Hope this helps.
George
#393
George
#394
Registered User
If the rock chip or scratch is past the paint and you can see primer, the only thing you can do is touch it up or get that panel repainted. If the imperfection is just in the clear coat, then you can attempt to buff them out with an abrasive polish. Most rock chips need to be touched up or repainted to properly fix though. If you'd like to take a picture of the area on your vehicle you are talking about, I'd be happy to give further assessment.
George
George
#396
Water Blade Damage
If you always have a protective coat on your paint and you practice the sheeting method before drying, there isn't much water left behind to remove when drying. For what's left, you are much better off using a paint safe waffle weave drying towel and safely blotting the remaining bits of water on your vehicle. This will help minimize adding imperfections to your paint and keeping your vehicle looking newer longer.
If you have any other questions, let me know.
George
#397
Super Moderator w/ Boost
iTrader: (3)
Thats awesome.
I was looking for a quicker easier way to dry and seen those at the store... glad i didnt get one.
I just did the water sheet method on my lat wash for the first time... I was amazed.
I guess I can always use an air compressor to blow the water off?
is there anything bad with that?
thanks again!
I was looking for a quicker easier way to dry and seen those at the store... glad i didnt get one.
I just did the water sheet method on my lat wash for the first time... I was amazed.
I guess I can always use an air compressor to blow the water off?
is there anything bad with that?
thanks again!
Big no-no in my book, and this is why we do not sell them. You might not think you are doing damage to your paint, but dragging anything across your paint will eventually cause damage. Here's a great example of what you can do your paint in a short period of time:
Water Blade Damage
If you always have a protective coat on your paint and you practice the sheeting method before drying, there isn't much water left behind to remove when drying. For what's left, you are much better off using a paint safe waffle weave drying towel and safely blotting the remaining bits of water on your vehicle. This will help minimize adding imperfections to your paint and keeping your vehicle looking newer longer.
If you have any other questions, let me know.
George
Water Blade Damage
If you always have a protective coat on your paint and you practice the sheeting method before drying, there isn't much water left behind to remove when drying. For what's left, you are much better off using a paint safe waffle weave drying towel and safely blotting the remaining bits of water on your vehicle. This will help minimize adding imperfections to your paint and keeping your vehicle looking newer longer.
If you have any other questions, let me know.
George
#398
Thats awesome.
I was looking for a quicker easier way to dry and seen those at the store... glad i didnt get one.
I just did the water sheet method on my lat wash for the first time... I was amazed.
I guess I can always use an air compressor to blow the water off?
is there anything bad with that?
thanks again!
I was looking for a quicker easier way to dry and seen those at the store... glad i didnt get one.
I just did the water sheet method on my lat wash for the first time... I was amazed.
I guess I can always use an air compressor to blow the water off?
is there anything bad with that?
thanks again!
Is using compressed air more effective than a water blade, certainly!
Hope this helps.
George
#399
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 229
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George,
I am trying to decide where to go with my car once it warms up a bit here. I just got the car a month ago, but I will probably wait till March/April until I get really down and dirty. I have hears both the pros and cons of a wax or sealant, but what would you recommend for a Platinum Graphite G. I was leaning towards a sealant from what I have read, but I am no expert.
I am trying to decide where to go with my car once it warms up a bit here. I just got the car a month ago, but I will probably wait till March/April until I get really down and dirty. I have hears both the pros and cons of a wax or sealant, but what would you recommend for a Platinum Graphite G. I was leaning towards a sealant from what I have read, but I am no expert.
#401
George,
I am trying to decide where to go with my car once it warms up a bit here. I just got the car a month ago, but I will probably wait till March/April until I get really down and dirty. I have hears both the pros and cons of a wax or sealant, but what would you recommend for a Platinum Graphite G. I was leaning towards a sealant from what I have read, but I am no expert.
I am trying to decide where to go with my car once it warms up a bit here. I just got the car a month ago, but I will probably wait till March/April until I get really down and dirty. I have hears both the pros and cons of a wax or sealant, but what would you recommend for a Platinum Graphite G. I was leaning towards a sealant from what I have read, but I am no expert.
Adding a wax on top will not only add another layer of protection to your paint, but it will also enhance the depth and gloss, giving it more of that wet look. Waxes tend to bead water better than sealants, which makes future cleanings even easier, and the protection often protects better (although for shorter periods of time) against things like water spots, bird dropping etchings, and much more.
A great combo to go with would be Poorboy's EX-P sealant and Natty's Red Paste Wax (or the Blue Paste Wax). Poorboy's products are arguably one of the best bang for the bucks for higher quality detailing products. They are easy to use, durable, and have a great look to them.
If you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to ask.
George
#403
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 229
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So, I was in a parking garage the other day with a lot of UV light, and I saw some small swirls already in my car, and I haven't even touched it yet. I am thinking it was from the dealership when they prepped my car....great huh? Anyways, as soon as it gets a little nicer, I want to get a PC and take care of it. I plan on using the EX-P and Natty's combo you mentioned, but as far as a polish, school me on Menzerna PO106FF. From what I've read it's good stuff and sounds like you don't need a finishing polish. Would a wash, claybar, Menzerna PO106FF, EX-P and Natty's get my car looking top notch?
#404
So, I was in a parking garage the other day with a lot of UV light, and I saw some small swirls already in my car, and I haven't even touched it yet. I am thinking it was from the dealership when they prepped my car....great huh? Anyways, as soon as it gets a little nicer, I want to get a PC and take care of it. I plan on using the EX-P and Natty's combo you mentioned, but as far as a polish, school me on Menzerna PO106FF. From what I've read it's good stuff and sounds like you don't need a finishing polish. Would a wash, claybar, Menzerna PO106FF, EX-P and Natty's get my car looking top notch?
Poorboy's combo is a great way to protect your paint and give it additional depth and gloss. It's easy to use and a great value.
If you wanted some more pop to the paint, you could try stepping up to the P21S Pure Carnauba Wax or Pinnacle Souveran. Each wax has their pros and cons. Your last step is where you can really tweak your finish. If you'd like any more details on the different waxes, just let me know. For the money, you won't be disappointed with the Poorboy's combo though.
George
#405
Sorry if this has been asked before, but I am looking for a fairly straight forward detail that takes at most 3 hours on a weekend. I've never used anything but turtle wax and the applier it comes for so I'm new to the idea of the porter cable.
First off, do you just apply way to the porter cable then go at a section of the car, with no special hand movements, and no worry that if you held it in one spot for say, 10sec longer then another spot, it would look weird?
Second, with a clear bra do you just use blue painters tape and overlap the clear bra say 1/2 inch, and then use two types of wax for the car/bra.
Third, after you are done getting all the areas with wax do you take the tape off and hand apply as close to the border of the clear bra/paint as possible?
Fourth, my rubber sealant around the sunroof ( the tube like thing ) is already showing some fading, should I get this replaced or is there something I can do that will make it perfect again.
I know I've got a lot of questions but this is my new baby and I've yet to properly wax a car before. Feel free to recommend I either wax/seal/whatever else because I don't know which is best. I live in KC so its pretty all-season around here. I'm thinking a good polish, seal/wax would work, I'm not sure I need a glaze. Do the sealant/wax combinations work good? I do want the car to shine.
Also, last question, when drying with your waffle weave, what is the correct method. Do you do long strokes in a fairly straight line, then folder the towel to an un-used surface and repeat if there is still some amount of water?
First off, do you just apply way to the porter cable then go at a section of the car, with no special hand movements, and no worry that if you held it in one spot for say, 10sec longer then another spot, it would look weird?
Second, with a clear bra do you just use blue painters tape and overlap the clear bra say 1/2 inch, and then use two types of wax for the car/bra.
Third, after you are done getting all the areas with wax do you take the tape off and hand apply as close to the border of the clear bra/paint as possible?
Fourth, my rubber sealant around the sunroof ( the tube like thing ) is already showing some fading, should I get this replaced or is there something I can do that will make it perfect again.
I know I've got a lot of questions but this is my new baby and I've yet to properly wax a car before. Feel free to recommend I either wax/seal/whatever else because I don't know which is best. I live in KC so its pretty all-season around here. I'm thinking a good polish, seal/wax would work, I'm not sure I need a glaze. Do the sealant/wax combinations work good? I do want the car to shine.
Also, last question, when drying with your waffle weave, what is the correct method. Do you do long strokes in a fairly straight line, then folder the towel to an un-used surface and repeat if there is still some amount of water?
Last edited by GregUMR; 02-29-2008 at 09:57 AM.