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Old 11-19-2007, 10:16 PM
  #376  
Romeo Xray
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I spent in a span of three days washing, sealing, and waxing! (includes cure times for the sealant)

Two coats of Menzerna FMJ and Souveran! The hood and front got three coats of each. Both FMJ and Souveran were applied by hand and was very easy to use. The gloss these two products combined is amazing! Although, FMJ alone I thought looked great. When I applied Souveran, OMFG! It just made the clear gloss of the sealant on top of the black paint look deeper and wet! The car is a mirror! I pulled the car out of the garage on a sunny Sunday afternoon, sat on my lawn chair, pulled out a cold beer and just sat there admiring my work.

Questions:
My G37 is not my daily driven car, it's always parked in the garage until the weekends or for short trips around town after work (three weeks old and only 280 miles on it, 80 miles of it going home from dealership). Since this vehicle isn't driven as much, would the timetable for reapplying the sealant and wax be longer?

After a quick drive around town should I use a QD like Poorboy's Spray & Wipe when I get back home or should I just leave the car alone until it's time for a wash? Basically, is the purpose of the QD made for wiping the dirt off those short drives? When I check the car after a short drive I can see a thin layer of dirt/dust/grime, especially on the rear bumper areas, can I wipe that off with a QD without scratching the car?

edits: grammar

Last edited by Romeo Xray; 11-19-2007 at 10:39 PM.
Old 11-20-2007, 10:48 AM
  #377  
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Originally Posted by Romeo Xray
I spent in a span of three days washing, sealing, and waxing! (includes cure times for the sealant)

Two coats of Menzerna FMJ and Souveran! The hood and front got three coats of each. Both FMJ and Souveran were applied by hand and was very easy to use. The gloss these two products combined is amazing! Although, FMJ alone I thought looked great. When I applied Souveran, OMFG! It just made the clear gloss of the sealant on top of the black paint look deeper and wet! The car is a mirror! I pulled the car out of the garage on a sunny Sunday afternoon, sat on my lawn chair, pulled out a cold beer and just sat there admiring my work.

Questions:
My G37 is not my daily driven car, it's always parked in the garage until the weekends or for short trips around town after work (three weeks old and only 280 miles on it, 80 miles of it going home from dealership). Since this vehicle isn't driven as much, would the timetable for reapplying the sealant and wax be longer?

After a quick drive around town should I use a QD like Poorboy's Spray & Wipe when I get back home or should I just leave the car alone until it's time for a wash? Basically, is the purpose of the QD made for wiping the dirt off those short drives? When I check the car after a short drive I can see a thin layer of dirt/dust/grime, especially on the rear bumper areas, can I wipe that off with a QD without scratching the car?

edits: grammar
Romeo Xray - Sounds like your detailing was a big success! The combination of products you selected is tough to beat in the looks department. Pinnacle Souveran is just stunning on dark colored vehicles. Unless I'm testing a new wax, Souveran is the wax I turn to for my details.

Storage and miles driven do play a major roll in the durability of your sealant and wax. The less you expose your vehicle to the elements, the longer your layers of protection will last. I will typically recommend reapplying a sealant once a season for maximum protection and to ensure full coverage year round. In your case, you could probably get away with reapplying the sealant every 4 - 5 months. For your layers of wax, to maintain that deep wet gloss from Souveran, monthly applications would be ideal.

Poorboy's Spray & Wipe is a great product to use to remove a light dusting from your vehicle. Use it at full strength with a plush microfiber towel to minimize the risk of adding imperfections. We just got in a new towel that isn't on our site yet, but it is literally 3x as thick as our current Ultra Plush towel. Our Ultra Plush weighs just under 2oz per towel, the new one weighs 5.4oz. We're going to call it the reTHICKulous Towel. Look for it on our site starting tomorrow.

Thanks again for your support, I'm glad everything turned out as planned. If you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask.

George
Old 11-21-2007, 11:12 PM
  #378  
shumby
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Angry help

OK i need your help. My wife did the unthinkable and used a snow brush to sweep snow off of the hood of my OB G37S. I have not been able to bring myself to look at the extent of the damage.
What do i need to get rid of this?

Please post a how to and link to products.

I am sooo Pi$$ed right now.
Old 11-23-2007, 12:17 PM
  #379  
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Originally Posted by shumby
OK i need your help. My wife did the unthinkable and used a snow brush to sweep snow off of the hood of my OB G37S. I have not been able to bring myself to look at the extent of the damage.
What do i need to get rid of this?

Please post a how to and link to products.

I am sooo Pi$$ed right now.
shumby, I feel your pain! I've detailed plenty of vehicles where I've seen this happen. Depending on how deep the imperfections are will determine what polishes I would recommend.

If you haven't already invested in a quality buffer, such as the Porter Cable 7424 or the Flex XC3401VRG, now may be the time.

What you'll need to correct the imperfections is some form of abrasive polish(es). Depending on how deep the imperfections are will determine which polish will best fit your needs. My top recommendation would be to look into Menzerna PO106FF as your first option. This polish is unique in the sense that it is the finest finishing polish I've used, but has enough bite to tackle minor to medium imperfections. It accomplishes this by using smaller, but sharper abrasives. If the imperfections are light to medium, this would be my first option.

If the imperfections are on the heavier side and you want to stick with one polish to get the job done, consider Menzerna Super Intensive Polish (PO83). Compared to the PO106FF this has more cutting ability, but finishes down well enough to go to your protective steps of sealant or wax. Overall, the PO106FF will have a slight edge on depth and gloss since it uses finer abrasives, but you will remove more imperfections with the SIP.

Aside from the premium professional polishes from Menzerna, a great 2 step combo from them would be Menzerna Intensive Polish, followed by Menzerna Final Polish II. This combo will yield excellent results and accomplish your goal of removing the swirls and scratches.

The Porter Cable and Flex both have some specials going on until the end of the month. The PC is $109.99 and we are selling the Flex + either Super Intensive Polish or PO106FF for $299.99.

Here's a link to our polishing guide and if you click on the link to the Flex buffer above, there is a video on how to operate either buffer.

If you have any other questions on anything, or would like me to put together a complete package for you, please do not hesitate to ask.

George
Old 12-19-2007, 09:40 PM
  #380  
Romeo Xray
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The rear brake light lenses and front headlight "plexiglass covers" ....is it a good idea to add some sealant/wax over them or should they be left alone?
Old 12-20-2007, 10:22 AM
  #381  
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Originally Posted by Romeo Xray
The rear brake light lenses and front headlight "plexiglass covers" ....is it a good idea to add some sealant/wax over them or should they be left alone?
If the product is designed to work on plastic / plexiglass, then it is a good idea. For example, if I'm using Klasse AIO, I will apply some on there, or a plastic protectant, such as Plexus is a good option.

I would avoid using a carnauba wax though, it could potentially dull or oxidize the finish.

George
Old 12-29-2007, 09:18 PM
  #382  
MaxToTheG37
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What is your opinion on detailing a car that is brand new... and since its in the winter....

When I run out of products I will be purchasing alot from you... as of now i have a christmas kit from megiurs and from amrour all that i received from family members for christmas... since i had a new car...

Any advice for this new car owner and advice on the use of the Meguirs and AA stuff?

thanks
Old 12-30-2007, 01:26 PM
  #383  
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Detailing a brand new car is just as important as detailing an old one. I like to stress to people that it is a lot easier to prevent a problem than it is to fix one.

For new vehicles, I'd recommend giving it a good wash, clay bar, then protecting it during the winter with a paint sealant or wax. The key thing to remember is reapply your sealant or wax as needed. Sealants will last an average of 3 - 4 months where a wax is expected to last around a month. So depending on which one you are using, just make sure you reapply it prior to the range of protection runs out.

Come Spring time we can assess any imperfections and polish the vehicle as needed. Congrats on the new vehicle, use what you have now to protect it and prevent the winter climate from creating any problems for you.

Let me know if you have any questions.

George
Old 12-30-2007, 08:21 PM
  #384  
Romeo Xray
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The best investment I made in regards to car care/detailing was getting a Porter Cable 7424. I use it for my Black Obsidian G37 and the difference from hand applied polish/wax is just amazing! So, whenever I hear anyone ask what they should get for their new car, I recommend they look at a PC 7424 or similar.

Last edited by Romeo Xray; 12-30-2007 at 08:25 PM.
Old 01-04-2008, 02:14 PM
  #385  
Black Betty
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George,

What's the deal with the California Water Blade? Are they OK to use on a car's paint finish or not? I have used them in the past and they make drying the car extremely fast and easy. I'd like your professional opinion.

Also, what do you recommend for areas of the car covered wth clear bra? Is it advisable to polish or wax it like the rest of the car?

Last edited by Black Betty; 01-04-2008 at 02:31 PM.
Old 01-04-2008, 02:24 PM
  #386  
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BB, don't even think of using a water blade to dry your car. It will cause a great degree of imperfections in your paint.

Here is an example from Detail University where Kevin shows the damage they can cause. I am sure this will make you think twice about using one.

http://www.detailuniversity.com/foru...ack-lexus.html
Old 01-04-2008, 03:30 PM
  #387  
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Originally Posted by Garnet Canuck
BB, don't even think of using a water blade to dry your car. It will cause a great degree of imperfections in your paint.

Here is an example from Detail University where Kevin shows the damage they can cause. I am sure this will make you think twice about using one.

http://www.detailuniversity.com/foru...ack-lexus.html
Wow! Thanks. Great job that was done getting that Lexus back to how it should look.
Old 01-04-2008, 03:52 PM
  #388  
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Originally Posted by Black Betty
Wow! Thanks. Great job that was done getting that Lexus back to how it should look.
Yep, Kevin does incredible work.....a real master detailer!!
Old 01-04-2008, 03:59 PM
  #389  
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Originally Posted by Black Betty
George,

What's the deal with the California Water Blade? Are they OK to use on a car's paint finish or not? I have used them in the past and they make drying the car extremely fast and easy. I'd like your professional opinion.

Also, what do you recommend for areas of the car covered wth clear bra? Is it advisable to polish or wax it like the rest of the car?
I have the same feelings as Garnet Canuck with the Water Blade. I'd never recommend using one. If you use the sheeting method prior to drying, you can rid 80% or more of the water (assuming there is sealant or wax on the paint) before anything even touches your car. Then all you need is 1 quality waffle weave drying towel to soak up the rest of the water by blotting the surface.

Try to avoid polishing your clear bra with an abrasive polish. Feel free to use a chemical polish, like Klasse AIO (which will also protect it). I personally tape off the edges because I cannot stand seeing white product cake up outlining where the clear bra is. Another popular product to use on clear bras is Plexus plastic polish, cleaner and protectant. You can use most products that protect your paint to also protect the clear bra.

George
Old 01-04-2008, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Detailed Image
I have the same feelings as Garnet Canuck with the Water Blade. I'd never recommend using one. If you use the sheeting method prior to drying, you can rid 80% or more of the water (assuming there is sealant or wax on the paint) before anything even touches your car. Then all you need is 1 quality waffle weave drying towel to soak up the rest of the water by blotting the surface.

Try to avoid polishing your clear bra with an abrasive polish. Feel free to use a chemical polish, like Klasse AIO (which will also protect it). I personally tape off the edges because I cannot stand seeing white product cake up outlining where the clear bra is. Another popular product to use on clear bras is Plexus plastic polish, cleaner and protectant. You can use most products that protect your paint to also protect the clear bra.

George
Thanks. i wish I'd asked earlier about the clear coat. I now have the wax residue around the edges of the clear bra. My car is black. Is there an easy way to clean the edges of the clear bra without damaging it or the paint?


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