Is this G37 Sport a good deal?
#1
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Is this G37 Sport a good deal?
Hey guys I just came across a 2008 G37 Sport close to me. It's a small dealership. Asking price is $12,900. He said if I traded in my 2001 Honda Accord, he'd bring it down to $11,000. But I was hoping he'd drop it to $10,000... not sure if he'd go that low however. It's got 107,358 miles. Clean title, clean Carfax. It's a manual 6 speed. It also has a Stillen Dual Intake Kit. There were a few nicks and tears in the dashboard...not horrible. Could probably have it repaired. It seemed to drive okay. A little bit of wind noise around the side mirrors. Also the shifter had a slight vibration to it. Not sure if this is normal for manuals or not. I have attached a bunch of photos of the car. What do you guys think?
Last edited by mrittman; 04-08-2016 at 09:57 PM.
#4
ya, you can take it to infiniti if there is one close by or an independant shop that you trust for them to look over. He should let you take it to get it checked out, if not then thats a red flag and you should move on.
#6
Registered User
Yeah get someone to look at it before you decide and maybe sell your accord outside of the dealership because 1,200 bucks that doesn't seem right unless it's really messed up.
#7
Registered Member
Thread Starter
I should have mentioned that my Accord has a descent dent in the side from when a car side swiped me I wouldn't figure I'd get more than $1500 for it :/
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#8
if you do have an infiniti dealership close by, you can also take the vin to them and check the service history for that car to see if it was regularly maintained. Depending on the dealership and the person you deal with this might or might not work
#9
Moderator
iTrader: (147)
Agreed with everyone's responses on getting it fully checked out. If anything they'll be able to pinpoint minute issues as well which in turn may help you bring the price down to 10k. Trust me any dealer small or big wants to get rid of a car with that type of mileage on it.
Overall sounds like a good deal but not until it's checked out. Best of luck with the purchase and make sure you stand your ground during the sale. Remember they want to sell it just as much as you want to buy it, but the trick is to NEVER show them your excitement over it.
Overall sounds like a good deal but not until it's checked out. Best of luck with the purchase and make sure you stand your ground during the sale. Remember they want to sell it just as much as you want to buy it, but the trick is to NEVER show them your excitement over it.
#10
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Thanks guys I really appreciate the input. One thing I'm a little afraid of with the whole inspection thing is he'll sense my "excitement" over it because I want to get the inspection. Who knows though, I'm sure he does want to get rid of it too.
Kind of off topic but, does anyone know since this is a dealer, are there any other fees aside from the asking price that you'd have to pay? Even sales tax? I usually purchase from a private party, so I would just give them the money and that's it.
Kind of off topic but, does anyone know since this is a dealer, are there any other fees aside from the asking price that you'd have to pay? Even sales tax? I usually purchase from a private party, so I would just give them the money and that's it.
#11
Registered Member
It depends on the state but typically you pay sales tax, title transfer/registration fees and the dealer may have their own processing costs. Ask the dealer what those fees will cost you ahead of time so you know exactly what your getting into. So if you have a 6% sales tax on 10k your looking at an additional $600 plus probably another $150-200 in other title/reg/fees wouldn't be abnormal.
#12
Registered User
iTrader: (9)
Remember car fax is not a 100% reliable source for wrecks and flood damage get someone to inspect it for this too. I found this out the hard way awhile back....
Secondly no one has mentioned the problems with pre 2012 which is the timing cover gasket failure. Expensive to fix and can damage the engine. Oil pressure decrease is a symptom of the gasket failure but dont rely the oil pressure sensor in these cars they are crap and will not inform you that you are losing oil pressure - only that you have no oil pressure....
I will drop this thread here ...you need to be informed of all the possible problems: The problem has to do with the gasket material versus the newer revised gasket they started using...
I am unsure how high the probability is of this occurrence is but it does not seem substantial.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sed...rt-info-5.html
Car looks amazing and it is amazing that these cars drop to that price!
Secondly no one has mentioned the problems with pre 2012 which is the timing cover gasket failure. Expensive to fix and can damage the engine. Oil pressure decrease is a symptom of the gasket failure but dont rely the oil pressure sensor in these cars they are crap and will not inform you that you are losing oil pressure - only that you have no oil pressure....
I will drop this thread here ...you need to be informed of all the possible problems: The problem has to do with the gasket material versus the newer revised gasket they started using...
I am unsure how high the probability is of this occurrence is but it does not seem substantial.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sed...rt-info-5.html
Car looks amazing and it is amazing that these cars drop to that price!
Last edited by G37sGraphite; 04-03-2016 at 12:12 PM.
#13
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Thanks again guys. Sounds like I should definitely take it to get inspected.
Another thing I was thinking about... so I did a carfax report (attached) and found just some minor things. And like you guys said, a carfax doesn't always show everything. But what if I contacted a few of the previous dealerships that sold the car and asked them if there were any issues with it? Would they be able to release the price they sold it for as well as any inspection information?
Another thing I was thinking about... so I did a carfax report (attached) and found just some minor things. And like you guys said, a carfax doesn't always show everything. But what if I contacted a few of the previous dealerships that sold the car and asked them if there were any issues with it? Would they be able to release the price they sold it for as well as any inspection information?
#14
Registered Member
Thanks again guys. Sounds like I should definitely take it to get inspected.
Another thing I was thinking about... so I did a carfax report (attached) and found just some minor things. And like you guys said, a carfax doesn't always show everything. But what if I contacted a few of the previous dealerships that sold the car and asked them if there were any issues with it? Would they be able to release the price they sold it for as well as any inspection information?
Another thing I was thinking about... so I did a carfax report (attached) and found just some minor things. And like you guys said, a carfax doesn't always show everything. But what if I contacted a few of the previous dealerships that sold the car and asked them if there were any issues with it? Would they be able to release the price they sold it for as well as any inspection information?
#15
Premier Member
iTrader: (4)
personally, I'd never buy a car with >100k miles. at least not for a DD. I'd either save up and get what I want with lower miles or settle for something less. Especially a car that is on the upper - middle range of cost to maintain.
as for the extra fees, I know in this state (WA) you pay sales tax minus the trade in value you get and a $150 doc fee, plus B&O tax (like .0003% or something).
I got $31k for my truck when I traded it in and the G37 I bought was $27k so I paid 0 sales tax. your state may differ.
Good luck with whatever purchase you decide. Price sounds decent enough but I'd still pass personally. Be patient, you'd be surprised what comes up. it took me 7+ months to find the perfect car for me at a great price. also try to get a pre approval from a bank or credit union. it gives you more bargaining power and you're not subject to "well IF we can get you approved we'll have to tack on a $2500 warranty to ensure the bank gets a guarantee....."
as for the extra fees, I know in this state (WA) you pay sales tax minus the trade in value you get and a $150 doc fee, plus B&O tax (like .0003% or something).
I got $31k for my truck when I traded it in and the G37 I bought was $27k so I paid 0 sales tax. your state may differ.
Good luck with whatever purchase you decide. Price sounds decent enough but I'd still pass personally. Be patient, you'd be surprised what comes up. it took me 7+ months to find the perfect car for me at a great price. also try to get a pre approval from a bank or credit union. it gives you more bargaining power and you're not subject to "well IF we can get you approved we'll have to tack on a $2500 warranty to ensure the bank gets a guarantee....."