ang37

OTD = Purchase Price + Tax + Registration + X

I am solving this equation for X or more simply stated X = ?

When buying a used car, what are the typical fees inexcess of the purchase price, taxes and registration?

What are the additional costs that are added by the dealer. For instance I have seen, documentation fees, processing fees, are these fees legit and if they are then what is the reasonable range?

Lets say I buy a used G37 coupe for $25,000, the sales tax is 6% and another $150 for registration.

Out The Door = $25000 + $1500 + $150 = $26650.00

What else can I be charged, what's legit and reasonable? Or anything over (Purchase Price + Sales Tax + Registartion and Title fees) is just a scam to get more money out of you.

MattR82

In my experience the only "legitimate" fee which would be paid strictly to the dealer instead of to the state, would be a dealer's documentation fee or "doc fee." Dealers range in this fee from as little as $99 to as high as $1000! I think anything $300 or less total would be considered "reasonable." These fees are negotiable too regardless of if they are already bold printed on the contract. Other than that I don't think you should be paying any additional fees. A dealer I went to recently tried to charge me a $995 dealer prep fee! That's YOUR fee and the reason I am paying a premium for a car that cost you a bit of money (or in this case I believe no money) to be in sell able condition. They quickly waived the fee since I had "driven far to see the car but usually people pay the fee."

ang37

I checked out the 2011 IPL with 65K miles OTD $27.5K.

Byron Sexton

Did you buy it?

ang37

Byron, I am very close, just twiddling my thumbs should I, should I not. I posted this under the G-37 section, but will post it here again as it is a "buying" related.

Ok I test drove the 2011 Malbec Black IPL with 65K miles today, OTD $27.5K including taxes, doc fees, registration. I took it out twice for a test drive. It does drive well, I really pushed it on the second test and it responded well. The suspension was much tighter than the automatic I test drove last week. The oil change and maintenance light came on, plus the master alert light (I've heard the master light comes on with other lights and also when gas is low). The interior of the car was overall clean but the lower bottom of the back rest of the driver's seat had a rip, the exterior was clear of any dings, bruises etc but the rims had scrapes and scarring on the edges, break rotors had rust on them. And I did feel that the brakes need changing, I stressed on that. Wheel alignmnet felt okay.

The dealer used to be new car dealership for chevy, chyrsler but then they added used cars and now thats all they do. Mostly high end cars, I saw many BMWs, Audis, a nice Nissan GTR. They also have a Full autobody shop and a full service mechanic and tire shop, i was given a tour. The sales guy was pretty cool didn't really pressure me, also met the owner his thing was we buy quality used cars, price them aggressively to sell and focus on volume.

They assured me that they have a upholstery guy who can fix the rip in the seat, all their cars go through oil change and 130 point inspection and maintenance check before handing them over, if they have to change anything they will and they give a 60 day guarantee. I asked them about fixing the scarring on the rims and was told they have to check with their body shop if anything can be done to fix that. They will be doing an inspection on Monday and will let me know then.

Thanks for reading, what do you guys think?

According to the sales guy it was a company lease and driven by a pharmaceutical rep. car fax shows clean title but no maintenance history is avilable on car fax.

MattR82

I would push for all of these to be repaired/done or you take the car "as is" once a mechanic looks it over thoroughly for $1500-2000 less. I don't want to spend 26k+ for a car which already will have issues that need to be attended to immediately. This pushes a good deal to a mediocre or bad one. As far as company lease, it seems like if a company were to lease an IPL, especially a manual one, it would likely be driven by a higher up. This may or may not mean the car was well taken care of. Get a name of a good mechanic in Connecticut who specializes in Infinitis and have them check it out. Otherwise, I wouldn't think about purchasing this car, especially with the numerous red flags present. Good luck!

ang37

I am gonna use this guy ACI AUTO GROUP | Pre-owned & Used dealership in East Windsor, CT 06088
for the pre purchase car inspection, they also sell a lot of infinitis but they are a full service shop, I had visited him to test drive a coupe (auto with paddle shifts) and they were very professional. The dealer with 2011 IPL also has a full service mechanical and auto body shop, and keeps telling me that don't worry I will not sell you a wrong car and if they find any issues that they cannot fix they will send it to infiniti dealership to get resolved. But I think I will still take everyone's advice and have it checked by a third party. And this guy looks pretty professional an decent. The only thing is he might sway me to buy from him. . I am finding some nice deals on auto G37X. Sometimes I think it's probably more prudent to just get one of those, found a black on black local nissan dealership a 2010 G37 X Auto with 37K miles for $24K. Decisions Decisions