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I was worried about my CSF leaking at some point but so far its been good. I think their quality has improved with all the leaks they were getting called out for years back.
Hearing that from someone first hand really makes me consider pulling the trigger on a CSF and swapping out the Mishi. Really glad yours is holding up for you.
Didn’t have time to get to my condenser this week unfortunately but it’s all good. Contemplating dropping in a CSF triple-pass radiator and condenser unit in the meantime- will decide this week.
I did finally install a decent dash cam. Went with a Rove R2-4K Pro (front only). Ticked all of my boxes, and was reasonably priced on sale. Got the CPL filter with it for anti-glare and using a 256gb Samsung Pro Endurance card with it. Set to 2k@60fps for now. So far I’m really happy with it. I mounted it using their supplied anti-static sticker and then the 3M mount on top of that, for a no-mess removal which is nice. Sits just in front of and slightly below the rear-view mirror on the passenger side. Barely had enough cable length to run it from the armrest/center console outlet and hide the wiring, but got it all tucked up in the A-pillar trim and under the glovebox so you only see 1 section of wire wrapping around the top of the passenger a-pillar.
When I take the G to work I do remove the camera when it’s parked all day. If something happens to my car there, I’ll know, and I worry about the camera and memory card frying in the Florida heat from just sitting.
Were I you, I'd remove the a-pillar garnish and run that cable UNDER the airbag. The A-pillar covers pop off if the side curtain airbags are activated - and with some authority. I'd hate that to yank the cable and in addition to getting decked by the airbag you get socked by the dashcam.
Were I you, I'd remove the a-pillar garnish and run that cable UNDER the airbag. The A-pillar covers pop off if the side curtain airbags are activated - and with some authority. I'd hate that to yank the cable and in addition to getting decked by the airbag you get socked by the dashcam.
As soon as I have time free this week, that’s exactly my plan. Would prefer to avoid that potential issue entirely. Thanks for the heads up.
Was going to finally replace my 3rd Mishimoto condenser, but after giving it a lot of thought, I’ll be swapping my condenser and radiator back to an OEM 1-piece unit so I can have A/c back and not worry about it failing out on me again anytime soon. Seb of SpecialtyZ, track rats, and several experienced master techs I work with have all repeated the same- stick with OEM. I might eventually delve into an SPAL fan upgrade, but want to see how it does with the OEM fans first. Down the road I’ll likely end up cutting a hole in my hood behind the radiator to help extract heat, but we’ll see.
The radiator will be here in a few days, so I’ll drop it in this weekend. I am going to see if I can have a local shop make a metal version of the upper neck connector that’s plastic on the OEM unit. That’s my only long-term concern at this point. Just excited to have AC back (again) here in FL heat. Not sure what I’ll do with the Mishi unit. Might save it, but if anyone wants it you can have it for $200. New replacement condenser included, will make a FS post once I remove it.
Also started to remove the last of the rear bench seat hardware (since I finally have an appointment w/ a fabricator to get started on my roll bar). Use a breaker bar or impact wrench is my advice. These things are torqued down for safety. And they did it extra safe. Rounded off one of the nuts holding in the bracket on the pass side panel, thanks to the awkward angle. The other bolts came off without too much fight but I cheated using my impact wrench. I’m going to make a cover for the rear bench with a fuel pump access panel, but waiting for the roll bar to be done first in a few months. Rear diff build is in queue, lots of updates to come the next few weeks and months. Getting close to ready to do some run-down tests on a track…patience is key when building on your own dime.
Update - New OEM radiator is still on the way, will be here mid-week bc of the holiday weekend, so I plan to install it this upcoming Saturday 9/7.
New OEM radiator and condenser finally got installed tonight, big thanks to my coworker staying late to knock it out for me. Nice to have AC back for the 4th time to say the least. Still using my Mishimoto radiator hoses and GReddy constant tension worm clamps. My coworker did most of the work, was beyond thankful for his help and time, esp removing the old hard lines since he had all the nice and fancy AC tools. I pulled the bumper and a few things for him and then let him work his magic. I’ll post pictures tomorrow/later today since it’s 1am here. The removal of the Mishimoto unit was straightforward, more so just removing the driver intake box, my oil cooler, and the PS cooler to get to it (just hung the coolers safely out of the way). Popped the new OEM unit in, charged it up with Freon, filled and burped the coolant and we’re all good finally.
My (6MT) Mishimoto radiator is up for grabs if anyone wants it, new replacement condenser they sent me I never used will be included. Radiator was performing flawlessly, just had issues with the 1st two condensers. I’ll get some pictures and post a FS thread tomorrow. Now that my main issue has been taken care of, it’s time to rebuild my rear diff. The same coworker who helped with my AC tonight will be shimming my rear diff and helping with that install, but I plan to do most of that myself, or at least as much as I’m comfortable with before wanting to let a pro take over to get it just right. Next oil change I’ll be putting the baffled oil pan on. I’ll probably do it early at a 3k interval, just passed 75k miles on my odometer a week ago.
Happened to discover a lovely leak in my power steering rack and pinion while it was in the air, so there’s another item added to my to-do. It’s not a bad leak so I’m not bothering with it anytime soon. Replacement seems really straightforward so I’ll definitely DIY that one too. Shame the part is $1k+, hopefully I can get it at cost through work.
Just wipe it off, then keep an eye on that area and your PS levels. That seepage is totally normal. Seriously, mines been like that for over a decade.
4334909]Just wipe it off, then keep an eye on that area and your PS levels. That seepage is totally normal. Seriously, mines been like that for over a decade.
+1 Mine has been that way for almost as long as I've had the car. Just wipe it clean and drive on. Unless you're losing PS fluid I wouldn't stress it.
The new one would probably weep just the same.
Also, as I know you're meticulous on your projects, BULL posted a DIY/ Trick to "seal" the adjuster bolt. Something to consider.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; 09-18-2024 at 11:24 AM.
Also, as I know you're meticulous on your projects
That's certainly true. He makes me seem positively sloppy in comparison, LOL.
But Goldbug also leads with his wallet, over and over again. So if we can stop him from spending big money on unnecessary replacement parts, our job here is done.
Originally Posted by goldbug
Now that my main issue has been taken care of, it’s time to rebuild my rear diff.
@Rochester@ILM-NC G37S Thank you both for confirming it’s a pretty normal slow leak, and for pointing me in the direction of BULL’s R&P leak fix. My coworkers who’ve worked for Nissan and Infiniti said not to sweat it either. BULL’s rustoleum enamel paint fix will be very easy for me to do in the shop, and I have to adjust my fog light height tomorrow so I might as well go ahead and do it then while I have it on the lift, shouldn’t take long.
And I appreciate the compliments- I am beyond happy to not spend any additional money on my car right now for pricey replacement parts like an R&P assembly! New clips for my new OEM radiator were $100 alone since they were sadly trashed/lost a couple years ago when the Mishimoto radiator went in. Too bad I saved the grommets only, must’ve misplaced the radiator clips or might’ve trashed them not remembering what they were, oh well. Money goes fast. I’m also my own worst enemy at times jumping the gun on certain mods, but what can I say, I like to try things out and experiment here and there. I’ve learned to slow down and enjoy the ride as I get older though, which I’m grateful for. The CJM baffled oil pan is finally going on next oil change too, coming up in 1-2k miles.
Side note (that hysterically involves spending monies), I’ve been considering going back to my staggered 19x9.5/19x10.5 wheels for the street since I still have my 9.5 fronts that haven’t sold, and also grabbing a new set of wheels in 18 or 19 inch in the near-ish future. Torn on the square or staggered setup for the street - I just don’t want to go through tires anymore, so I’m a fan of square setups, esp since natural oversteer is A ok for me. I’m heavily leaning towards a set of 18’s - I’ll keep my current set to have one set as a dedicated track set and one as a street set. The good ol’ Enkei RPF1 is at the top of my list- it’s affordable, good quality, light, and comes in a great spec I see that should fit like a glove - 18x10 +38. The Enkei GTC02 has a few sizes I’m eyeing in 18x10 +25, 18x10.5 +35, and if I get another square set of 19s, 19x10 +40. The Work Emotion ZR7 that released recently is gorgeous IMO, but would only be interested in the 19x10.5 +32 spec, unless going staggered with 19x9.5 +22 up front. Since I have a set of ARP extended studs (I really need to install), I can run hubcentric spacers safely if needed on the higher offset wheels.
08-18-2024, 05:16 PM
