When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I actually used shockproof in the detroit lockers on my Jeep. Never seemed to affect traction. But those are super heavy duty clutch packs so maybe the friction was enough regardless of the slippy oil.
Added another item to my to-do list. Something I want to do down the road or if I find someone who wants my IPL bumper.
I also need to source some mudguards/splashguards for the front and rear at some point to help tie it all together. Successful Automotive makes carbon rear spats for the G chassis but I’m not sure if they include the actual splashguard piece…if they do I’ll probably try them out. If not, I can hand make some carbon spats.
Going to piece together my own 11+ sport fascia and sell my IPL front bumper. All parts included, down to oem install instructions and the tow hook covers. Very, very minor scratches on the underside of it, only noticeable from below the car. For sale post soon to come after I wash it and get pictures. Didn’t realize the OEM IPL front bumper fascia price has gone up so much…
Lost AC again. Good news is nothing is leaking and my system is holding Freon like a champ. Problem is, my fans won’t kick on. At all. Not even when forced to override and manually get them running via an advanced diag tool at our shop today. It seems like the fan relay, compressor relay, or a related fuse might be the culprit. AC and fans had been working fine until I ran the heat. It warmed up here in FL the next day so I turned back on the AC only to not hear the fans kick over and feel no cold air. Time to look at some wiring diagrams.
Also getting a P1550 Battery Current Sensor code but that might be due to a possible incorrect ground placement for my trunk-relocated battery. So I’ll check the ground this weekend. The battery current sensor (negative side) might be bad though- it could have finally failed due to the corrosion damage before I had the battery relocated. I replaced the positive fusible link (positive terminal fuse assembly) at that time, but not the current sensor on the negative side. We shall see.
My car decided to start pissing coolant again also but was an easy fix until my new hoses and clamps go on next week…the lower radiator side P2M clamp loosened up this time. That’s 3 of 4 P2M radiator hose clamps failing. Left a lovely mess. Replacing the clamps next week. I said I was going with OEM and I lied. I couldn’t help myself and got Mishimoto radiator hoses. Why one might ask? Because of the lifetime warranty. And it looks like HPS makes the hoses for Mishi. I plan to track this car and don’t want to worry about a hose cracking from heat. And I’m taking one for the team with my ongoing silicone radiator hose experiment. This current set of Z1 hoses have actually held up OK. Just minor spotting on one end. More so replacing them along with the clamps because coolant was absorbed into the fibers at the ends of the hoses - better safe than sorry. Pic below shows the leaking clamp after I re-tightened it and was cleaning coolant from the undercarriage.
Many updates to come. Oh I noticed one of my Z1 sway bar bushings already cracked. Shouldn’t have within just a year, so I’ll replace that soon. Still gotta put in my 4.08, wavetrac, and all those goodies…
Lost AC again. Good news is nothing is leaking and my system is holding Freon like a champ. Problem is, my fans won’t kick on. At all. Not even when forced to override and manually get them running via an advanced diag tool at our shop today. It seems like the fan relay, compressor relay, or a related fuse might be the culprit. AC and fans had been working fine until I ran the heat. It warmed up here in FL the next day so I turned back on the AC only to not hear the fans kick over and feel no cold air. Time to look at some wiring diagrams.
Run the IPDM/er Self Test as this will test the fan circuits (relay, control module, motors). Albeit similar to your diagnostic tool but worth a shot none the less. In my case both fan motors were shot (beach sand).
Run the IPDM/er Self Test as this will test the fan circuits (relay, control module, motors). Albeit similar to your diagnostic tool but worth a shot none the less. In my case both fan motors were shot (beach sand).
Thanks for that, the help is much appreciated. That self test is news to me. Love how Nissan hides stuff like this in there for us. Makes troubleshooting much easier. In the instructions, by door button do they mean the physical handle or the lock/unlock button? I wouldn’t be surprised if my fans are shot from sand here as well. I also saw your note about checking the 30a linkable fuse so I’ll look at that in the morning.
If I do need new fans, I might as well stick some 14” SPAL puller fans in there. Mishimoto makes a cheaper 14” option also, 1300cfm but I’d rather trust SPAL for something like cooling fans. There’s a few metal shops around the corner from my work so maybe I’ll see if someone wants to fab a custom shroud. Might see if I can find someone who works with carbon fiber in the area.
Give the fans a spin by hand and check for resistance. Mine grumbled. Found a whole fan assembly from a 370Z and dropped it in.
Obviously with your long-term build goals you'll want to upgrade...
Good luck!
Haha too great, I knew I wasn’t remembering something obvious with the door button. Thanks again. Huge help. About to go check everything out in an hour or so and will see how it goes. Update to follow.
I appreciate your experience and help with electrical systems. That’s the one area I’m still learning. Feel like I have a solid mechanical understanding of most things at this point but electrical I’m still learning…all of my studies from physics are slowly coming back to me, lol. Never took a course in electrical engineering etc.
Going to install my Z1 rear diff brace to help tighten things up until I drop my pumpkin...I checked it out the other day when I was cleaning the coolant from the undercarriage and wasn't happy with the amount of surface rust on it. When I drop it I'll definitely be re-finishing and painting it in some high-temp enamel. Also going to go ahead and paint my subframe with a nice rust preventative. Not going to mess with the new urethane diff bushings until the diff gets rebuilt. The brace should be plenty for now.
Checked and discovered the installer who did my battery relocation bypassed the OEM negative terminal (only a cable ran to for the positive side to the battery in the trunk, negative side grounded in the trunk) - this very likely explains why I keep getting P1550 for the battery current sensor, LOL. I'm going to see if this is something I can bypass via EcuTek with Seb's help, otherwise I'll have to figure out a work-around.
Mishi hoses will be here this week, going to install those and the GReddy clamps no later than Saturday, along with the diff brace while it's on the lift. Still need to dig more into my cooling fan issue. Likely need to replace them or the fan module.
Update - Mishimoto radiator hoses came in and they look fantastic. They have a very visible protective inner lining so hopefully these will be my permanent radiator hoses. Going on this Saturday.
Couldn’t get my car in on a lift at work today, so I’ll have to wait until next Saturday to swap radiator hoses and clamps. Will be a quick and easy job, nothing special to do other than a proper bleed.
I missed my old front bumper, so I pulled the trigger and have a new one on the way with Morimoto XB LED fog lights. I really missed having fog lights- since they no longer make the fog light surrounds for the IPL bumper, the surrounds are rare and pricey if found, which I never did/grabbed. I’ll be covering the fog lights in yellow film (legal here in FL) since I just love the way yellow fogs look on any black car; to each their own. Honestly still happy I gave the IPL front bumper a try, and it will be nice to have another new bumper with pristine mounting locations etc. I’m planning on wrapping the bumper in Avery Dennison SW900 Gloss Obsidian Black for now. Might end up wrapping the entire car in it eventually, depending on a few things. I work closely with our paint & body shop at work, so they just might be able to squeeze my front bumper in- might finally get my rear bumper repainted also if that happens. My FS post will go up in a few days once my new front bumper gets here and I pull the IPL bumper off. If you’re local-ish and interested, let me know!
My personal design views- the IPL front bumper looks fantastic from head-on and any forward angles. However, when you compare it from the side to the rest of the G37 coupe’s body/lines, it doesn’t flow and sticks out like a sore thumb. I think they did a fantastic job with the post-facelift 11+ sport coupe front bumpers, they just didn’t make them quite low enough, or throw us a front lip option. The sport front fascia also has a larger center grille=better airflow and cooling, compared to the IPL’s shorter center grille. I will 100% be installing a front splitter with it again, just not at first. I’m going to have either APR Performance or someone else custom make a carbon frame mounted splitter. I want it to truly provide additional downforce so I’m taking my time and doing this one 100% right.
Updates to come this week, still working through my fan issue also. I’ll get off my lazy a$$ and get pictures too.
If I had a Coupe, the look I'd want is the Sport Package front bumper, the standard rear bumper, and IPL side skirts.
It’s the setup. It looks great. Excuse me if you’ve seen this one already, but here’s one of my favorites with the sport front bumper when I had IPL side skirts installed. Not the best pic but it captures the lines. This was with my non-frame mounted alumalite splitter.
@ILM-NC G37S Thanks again for sharing that IPDM auto test. My fans both kicked on during the test, so it’s good to know the problem isn’t with the fan motors. Sounded like the AC compressor clutch was working flawlessly also.
If the fans and the compressor clutch are good, and the system is holding the proper refrigerant charge, then you have a electronic control issue. Found this post where the sunload sensor can be the culprit. Of course, the HAC (Heater & Air Conditioning Control System) section of the FSM will show you how to access the self-diagnostic, however, I am sure one of your buddy's will have access to CONSULT-3 which should pinpoint the issue.
11-09-2023, 11:24 PM
