goldbug

iTrader: (4)

Going to eventually rebuild my calipers and/or replace them with a nicer set in the future. Just leaving this note here to remind myself. Paint the calipers gold. Not just any gold. Going to have a custom formula mixed and add gold flakes into the paint to have actual gold calipers. The gold caliper paint colors I’ve seen are all too dull and don’t shine enough. Gold flakes because, why not? Might actually help with heat dissipation too, jk. It’s really not that complicated nor expensive.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Nice. I'm jealous because I've always wanted painted calipers, but just can't bring myself to get it done because I'd want it done right, like I'm sure you will do.

Custom gold, good choice. I've always had it in my head to go with the metallic yellow found on the old NSX. It's a special color, IMO, not quite gold, but more than just yellow.

goldbug

iTrader: (4)

It’ll be a pain doing all of them, but I’ve accepted it and plan to have the car in the air for a week of downtime to get that done. Actually after thinking about it, anodizing the calipers seems like the winner. Nothing compares in longevity. And the gold anodized finishes look much, much more gold and true to color than the paints I’ve seen.
rotor size etc.

This is something I won’t do for a while, but wanted to go ahead and lay out a plan of attack. Now I just need to think about either rebuilding the OEM calipers, or upgrading to an even nicer caliper. I see Z1 released a new caliper recently and there are obviously other trusted brands out there. The Z1 race brake kit seems like the best option for me as of now since it's front and rear rotors & calipers that are larger than OEM but still OEM-ish since they are essentially GTR calipers and rotors. The Z1 competition calipers are gorgeous, but still seem a little too extreme for my goals. And with pad availability and cost being a concern, I'd rather not be in a situation where I can't get pads/replacement rotors or have to wait. Having something in OEM Z/G sizing or R35 GTR sizing makes sense for my case. If money were no object and I was building a track monster, 100% the Z1 comp brakes would be worth it. But I'm too much of a realist, and not rich (yet), lol. Their weight is a concern though. The EBC Apollo front set looks promising with a true floating 2-piece design; but with regards to replacement parts/rotors for the EBC kit, I'd again be worried I'd get stuck waiting, or worse. The Brembo is tried and true. But not having a matching rear caliper would bug me for both the Brembo and EBC set. The Z1 race kit will be more than enough for my needs.

Options:
1. Z1 Race BBK
+380mm front and rear rotors
+Semi-floating rotors
+Accepts r35 brake pads (plus for future pad availability)
+Includes F&R calipers, rotors and (optional) new SS lines & fluid
2. Z1 Competition BBK
+370mm front and rear rotors
+Semi-floating rotors
+Made by Powerbrake
+Includes SS lines & fluid
-Replacement rotor/pads availability & cost concern
3. Brembo BBK (front only)
+Not too pricey
+Includes Brembo SS lines
+OEM rotor sizing at 355mm (good and bad)
-Must piece together rear Brembo set, if wanted
4. EBC Apollo BBK (front only)
+Fully floating rotors
+OEM rotor sizing at 355mm (good and bad)
-Must piece together rear EBC set, if wanted
5. Rebuild OEM Akebono calipers, add Z1 2-piece rotors and send it

goldbug

iTrader: (4)

Z1 finally made a carbon fiber radiator cover for the G37. I’ve been waiting years for someone to make one. My OEM plastic cover cracked at the back years ago. You’d never see it unless it’s removed but doesn’t change the fact that the carbon cover is worth it for the looks, IMO. Much cleaner than OEM plastic. Not too pricey so I’ll snag one soon enough.

Added to the wish list, lol.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Very nice. $350, huh? Looks like its worth it for you Coupe guys who are into engine bay bling.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/hood/z...e-p-49799.html

goldbug

iTrader: (4)

Haha yes, I have to admit the bling factor on this one has me. Typically I don’t care about flashy dress-up parts, but like I say, sometimes it’s the little things for me. And I’m a sucker for carbon fiber pieces, especially in an engine bay. It just looks that much cleaner, IMO. To each their own!

BTW- I know you were one following this- I still haven’t sold my 4.08 R&P and I’m leaning more and more towards trying it with the Wavetrac until I engine swap etc. My wife still thinks I should supercharge it, so everything is up in the air. Might be rowdy and fun supercharged with 4.08 gearing…I really don’t have a good enough reason not to at the moment. Supercharger or LS3 swap I’ll take my time with so either way I could enjoy the 4.08 for a while. Trying to slow down hardcore mods a little and enjoy the car more. I say that but I’m still putting in a custom roll-bar at some point this year. Hopefully by the end of the year I’ll have that done, since I put that off after deciding to get new front wheels for the square setup (and all new tires). My rear diff bushing popped long ago so it’s been time for the Wavetrac & urethane bushings install…that has to be done asap now. The new 19x10.5 275/35 square setup takes the words out of my mouth going around corners. Just wish it had more torque!

Should I still toss in the 4.08 (you have them installed IIRC)? Seems like it might give me some fun grunt in the meantime, from the hundreds of posts/threads I’ve read over the years. Sadly I have yet to meet another Z/G owner with this mod in person, which would really help me decide. If i do it, I’m keeping the 3.69 R&P so I can always swap back if needed, or go to a 3.3 for boost/an LS3.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

You have the gears and the rebuild kit in your hands, right? So at this point it's all just shop hours.

Heck yes, just do it. Zero regrets. If you need to drive a short gear G to get the confidence, fly up here for the afternoon. But hurry up... winter is coming.

goldbug

iTrader: (4)

The zero regrets part is the answer I was looking for, thank you for the honest feedback. Might as well, right? And yes, over the past year I gathered absolutely everything needed down to the Motul fluid. New stub axle for the Wavetrac, full rebuild kit, diff cover, diff brace, diff bushings, and even subframe collars to do at the same time. Should be a different car afterwards, to say the least...especially since my OEM bushing popped a while ago. Exciting.

My wife and I talked for a while about whether I should V8 swap this car now or do it later. She loves the way my car sounds and I have to agree...it's just unique and different, and I would 100% miss it. Not your typical VQ you hear. The AAM resonated HFCs are magical. It would also be a "waste" pulling out my perfectly healthy motor with only 73k miles on it that's been babied and only driven hard on occasion. I still might swap the HKS cat-back for a custom Y-pipe and midpipe with the sport accessory muffler, but think I'll buy the new exhaust parts first then sell whichever one I don't prefer. Much safer than risking a trade and being stuck with an exhaust setup I don't like. I've accepted the S/C will add a little weight up front, but let's be real- I'm not a professional racer and probably won't even know the difference with my current level of experience, especially with the trade-off of so much more power. I would really like some quality shorty headers though, shame no one makes any for the VHR- I'd have to run DE downpipes/cats and DE y-pipe etc. Not worth it for me personally. Maybe LTH's with a cat'ed Motordyne XYZ pipe...but that's $$$ and not a priority. Also, once I get the roll-bar welded in, that should help balance out the car some front-to-rear. I'd rather save the $15k extra I'd spend on the V8 swap and buy another car first.

And, since I have started to stockpile parts for a supercharger build, again...might as well go ahead and send it. I'll rock the supercharger until I can really afford a v8 swap in this car or possibly another G37 I might turn into a sole track-toy. No one has been interested in the manifold I have listed. It's a hard-to-sell item, and I get it...you have to really want to do it. I'll get it fixed up and run with a custom Z1 S/C & Stillen mani setup. If I blow the boosted motor, then I'll have an excuse to V8 swap sooner. A plus about the S/C setup, the carbon stillen cover will go good with the carbon Z1 radiator support cover

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Looking forward to reading your review. Do you have a shop who will do the work? What's your schedule?

ddogg777

Would you keep the higher gearing even boosted?

goldbug

iTrader: (4)

Yes for the rear diff I have a shop here in FL that I trust, luckily. That's something I want an experienced pro to do, regardless of whether or not I could DIY in my own job's shop. RAV Performance. They did my Mishi radiator install a year ago, along with the battery relocation and oil cooler install. They do some serious and top-notch work. I'll be renting some time on their mainline pro hub dyno once I install my supercharger to have Seb from SpecialtyZ tune it. We also have street-legal race fuel available here in FL and there's a Sunaco station not far from me that stocks 260GT unleaded...so I'll also have a 100 octane map made either before and/or after the S/C. I'd like to try a 100 octane map with the Wavetrace and 4.08 before boost...could be fun.

Since my OEM rear diff bushing popped, I need to rebuild my rear diff sooner than later and replace all of the bushings at the same time. I'll put the 4.08 in then, and will try keep it in for the S/C install to see how they pair together. If it's useless and I can't hold traction at all, I'll go back to 3.69 or possibly 3.33. Since it will be supercharged, it might be ok from what I've read, so I might as well try it out. I can't find any forum feedback on any site about people who have 4.08 and are supercharged. I would 100% not install the 4.08 if I was planning on a turbo setup.

goldbug

iTrader: (4)

My coworker who bought my spare Work Emotion ZR10 wheels is sadly parting ways with her 350z and also parting out her car next weekend. If anyone is interested in picking them up, she's asking $1800 for wheels and tires. If you are interested please send me a PM and I can arrange contact info etc. Just spreading word, this isn't a feeler. Mods if this is a no-no please let me know and I'll make a FS post for her (wasn't trying to since I'm not the owner of the item being sold). Just trying to help out a friend and fellow G/Z enthusiast who's in a bad situation.

Work Emotion ZR10 Glim black diamond cut rim finish
19x9.5+23 front
19x10.5+23 rear
The wheels alone cost $2400+ new
New 275/35/19 bridgestone potenza sport rear tires ($400+)
2/3 tread left on Yokohama Advan Apex v601 245/40/19 front tires
Located in SE FL, pickup only, per the seller (not me)

goldbug

iTrader: (4)

Back on track with plans. Well, kind of. I really, really need to swap my radiator hoses back out and put on new clamps after discovering my P2M clamps are failing. Need to jot my plans of attack down in order of priority to get them out of my head.

ASAP:
1- Remove P2M radiator clamps
1a- Install new GReddy rad hose clamps (have parts)
1b- Install new Mishimoto rad hoses (have parts)
2- Install Z1 diff brace (have part) DONE
3- Lower suspension an additional 1/2”
*3a- Install Z1 Forged FUCA’s (v. race, need to buy)
3b- Perform alignment

Less urgent:
4- Install CJM baffled oil pan (at next oil change)
*4a- Need to buy 6qts oil (Redline or Motul)
5- Install Wavetrac diff, 4.08 R&P, Z1 diff cover, stub axle, urethane bushings
5a- Re-finish and paint rear diff housing
5.i- Have all parts incl. fluid (need 3xl Motul Gear300 or Motul Gear Competition)
6- Install sport accessory muffler with HKS midpipe (have)
*6.i- Will require custom 60mm piping/fabrication
7- Have roll bar fabricated
7a- Custom fabricate carbon fiber sheets to cover removed rear bench
7.i- Incorporate an access door/panel for the fuel pump housing
8- Install fuel anti-starve solution
*8a- Need to buy Aeromotive Stealth 340 pump
*8b- Need to buy Radium hanger surge tank
9- Send Stillen intake manifold to machine shop
to have small crack fixed and cleaned up
10- Install supercharger
10a- Install RJM Tilton HD clutch master cylinder
*10b- Install Z1 blower unit, hot piping and intercooler
*10c- Install SOHO y-pipe (to throttle body)
*10d- Install 1050X injectors
*10e- Install ATI super damper
*10f- Install Stillen manifold (need hardware)
11- Dyno tune
12- Install Z1 subframe collars (have parts)

Not urgent at all, I'll do down the road:
13- Rebuilld Akebono calipers or install Z1 race (GTR) calipers
13a- Install Z1 2 piece rotors (standard or 380mm for GTR)
13b- Repaint or anodize calipers gold
14- Install Craft Square mirrors
15- Swap Tein Flex Z coilovers for Z1 R-pro true-style coilovers
16- Install remaining SPL suspension parts catalogue
17- Replace all window, roof, and door trim seals and rubber
18- Swap IPL front bumper for Liberty Walk front bumper
19- Have car repainted, or PDR then wrap


Misc. supercharger prep I listed a few posts back I’ll do as I can. Other than cleaning up the Stillen intake mani it’s just parts gathering. Just need injectors, the fuel pump/surge tank, the soho Y-pipe (intake) and the Z1 s/c kit itself at this point. I’ll also install new coil packs before hand, and I’ll order the Stillen Carbon fiber cover and Z1 carbon radiator cover sooner than later. I’ve been eyeing an ATI super damper so I’ll probably end up installing one when the supercharger goes in.

goldbug

iTrader: (4)

Went ahead and bought a new OEM upper and lower rad hose. It’s nice working for a dealer network that also owns a Nissan dealership, so I lucked out getting the rad hoses for cheap-ish. This is where the cross-compatibility with the 370Z is a huge blessing IMO. And for those curious, I only saved a few $ comparing the hoses to Z1 prices. But I don’t pay shipping and get them delivered for free to my dealership where I work. It’s not some amazing discount though. I just get parts at cost- most parts don’t have a huge profit margin so it’s not much savings in the end, typically. When I bought my AC compressor, Z1 actually had it only $10 more than my employee discount. Just FWIW. Z1 OEM parts prices seem to be very competitively priced- I’m actually curious how they get them almost at cost.

I’ll try to swap the radiator hoses and clamps out this or next weekend since the last thing I want is more coolant nightmares. Once I swap these hoses out I’m done messing with my coolant system for as long as possible. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

goldbug

iTrader: (4)

Well, I made a small hiccup up a year ago when I bought my Wavetrac and the other goodies to rebuild my rear diff. I ordered 3x bottles of Motul Gear300LS as that’s what I currently run in the OEM VLSD. I should have thought to check into what fluid the Wavetrac likes (hint:it’s not the 3x bottles of Gear300LS I already had). On their FAQ page, Wavetrac clearly states “Avoid gear oils with limited slip additives”. It all worked out though because in the end I just checked the date stamps and, Z1 sent me 3x bottles of Gear300LS from 2019 (actually they may have been from 2017 I’ll have to check when I’m back in my storage unit). So I wouldn’t feel comfortable using it even if Wavetrac said it could work; 4+ years sitting in unknown conditions is too sketchy for me, even unopened. Just wish I would have caught the date sooner to exchange them at Z1.

From the Wavetrac site regarding proper diff oil:

Some have friction modifiers designed for limited slip differentials. These modifiers generally increase slipperiness and are intended to reduce clutch disc chatter in conventional clutch-type LSDs. Some gear oils such as Red Line Oil's Shockproof® type have microscopic solid particles in immersion in order to "cushion" transmission components, acting as an extreme pressure agent. The Wavetrac® and all helical gear differentials in general, operate using friction. The friction generated between its internal gears and its housing are what allow this type of differential to function.

Gear oil additives that drastically reduce friction will actually reduce the performance of gear differentials. The internals of the diff get too slick to generate adequate friction - reducing the differential's effectiveness - reducing its ability to drive both wheels.

In conclusion, when using a Wavetrac®:

• Use factory spec oils for your car
• Use Motul Synthetic high performance oils if you wish to upgrade the oil. Please consult Autotech Driveline for recommendations.
• Avoid gear oils with limited slip additives.
• Do NOT use RedLine, Shockproof® or similar gear oils.

Performance Gear Oils we recommend:
+75W90 Motul Gear 300 (100118 1l)
+75W140 Motul Gear Competition (101161 1l)



PSA to check the dates on any oil products you purchase online.