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Quick update: So far so good. After re-flashing my car with it's existing tune with the line pressure set back to stock. I now have a slightly more aggressive trans while driving around town (quicker upshifts/downshifts). When I am WOT it shifts pretty stiff, like a stick between gears. The car does feel faster overall. Especially when doing a rolling start in first to about 20 mphs and then punching it and shifting quickly into 2nd (doesn't lose a beat / little or no delay). The one thing I did notice is that I do have let my car warm up for 10-15 minutes before driving it aggressively. Otherwise, it doesn't shift as fluently and it's little harsh in higher RPM. Which I should be doing anyways...
Here's second part of my valve body upgrades. This one is pretty short, covers some stuff I wasn't able to do from underneath.
Morning Folks, here's my most recent Video. I go over how I have my Nitrous setup, how I test it prior to use and there's a 30-100mph+ pull at the end. The goal was to test my valve body operation when shifting M or Auto with Nitrous spraying. I also have updated tune for cutouts (not finalized yet). I have to say that is the fastest it's ever felt and didn't loss a beat shifting in auto (was pulling whole time).
Well I did it and didn't blow anything up lol. She is now running 100 shot and making 415whp and 427wtq. That's more torque than a 2020 z51 Corvette... Here's video of the last pull and dyno report. Next Sunday I am taking her to the track
Hi All, it's been a while. So I figured I write up a quick update. So I have gone through 5 nitrous bottles with a 100 shot now. Mostly just to dial it in at test and tunes and quick 3rd pulls when it's safe to do so. I haven't broken my 1/8 records yet. She hasn't been fully dialed in with my new progressive control I have added. So my trips at the track have been disappointing, but expected. I am about .10 second slower than I was last year. But there is plenty of room for improvement and DA/weather conditions weren't as good. Right now, she is running extremely well with the latest tune (not tested at the track). When nitrous hits it throws you in the back of your seat and you feel the frontend left up doing a 3rd pull now and pull harder than ever before. However, I have ran into a few snags before my last drag racing event plans on going to this year. Last Friday evening my car wouldn't start, no fuel pressure, pump was not engaging when in the on position. Which could be a number of things lol. My tank was also full! So I couldn't remove the fuel pump to check things out and my G was parked on the right side of the garage with no space.... Everything is on that side lol, ECM, IPDM and Fuel Pump... I read through the EC manual on troubleshooting this, what a PITA... End up creating my own test and figuring it out! This will save anyone a ton of time, no need to unplug the Battery, ECM, IPDM and trace wires... What I did was disconnect the fuel pump, scrape off a small piece of insulation from the positive wire and connect a test lead to it, connected the test lead to a test light. Turn the car on, light came on and went off after 1 second. That's what is expected, and it rules out the IPDM, ECM and wiring all in one test... Turns out my positive lead was cooking on the pump assembly/connector and eventually lost connectivity. Plugging back it in solve the problem temporarily. But I can't run it hard like that. The other problem was inconsistent bottle pressure reading between nitrous bottle's (I have two bottles) pressure gauges and nitrous bottle pressure sensors (throwing my AFR / tune off). So order a new bullet top hat and installing a relay as my next project. I recently purchased some new front runners wheels / tires and digital nitrous gauge too lol... That project will be on hold. More on that to come... Here's my latest youtube videos!
Awesome **** man! The level on the pan saved me so much time. I suspected on mines the transmission was completely dried.
As far as power what did specialty Z recommend as far as upgrades that would benefit the added shot?
Hey Bill, thanks again for the leveling idea! That saved me a ton of time as well! As far as recommendations from specialty Z (Seb), there hasn't been any new recommendations for adding any more power. I pretty much done everything else performance wise to it. What I am working on now is making the bottle pressure, fuel pump voltage and AFR more consistent and maximize my power through the usable RPM range. What Seb recommended getting was a progressive controller my last time at the shop. Which was on my wish list. But didn't become important until I broke the 400wtq barrier on the dyno (we didn't expect 427wtq / 58+ gain). The progressive controller dampens that kick of nitrous (peak torque) and so far my transmission has been holding up. The done side is that does slow you down a bit. I am also overloading my OEM wiring for the fuel pump now... On 70 shot I was just at the limit. Now I have to adding a bullet hat and relay with 12 gauge wiring going directly to the battery. Which Seb recommended as well.
Hey Bill, thanks again for the leveling idea! That saved me a ton of time as well! As far as recommendations from specialty Z (Seb), there hasn't been any new recommendations for adding any more power. I pretty much done everything else performance wise to it. What I am working on now is making the bottle pressure, fuel pump voltage and AFR more consistent and maximize my power through the usable RPM range. What Seb recommended getting was a progressive controller my last time at the shop. Which was on my wish list. But didn't become important until I broke the 400wtq barrier on the dyno (we didn't expect 427wtq / 58+ gain). The progressive controller dampens that kick of nitrous (peak torque) and so far my transmission has been holding up. The done side is that does slow you down a bit. I am also overloading my OEM wiring for the fuel pump now... On 70 shot I was just at the limit. Now I have to adding a bullet hat and relay with 12 gauge wiring going directly to the battery. Which Seb recommended as well.
My suggestion for the wiring side of power is to use a 60a relay, you can use the existing wiring for the pump to trigger the relay and add the 12ga with a fuse to the pump. If you keep having issues with this you might have to switch to a return style system.
I suspect the DW pump is overworking itself at idle since it flows a lot more than factory but it's limited by the stock regulator and is trying to push all of that fuel through a returnless system making it work harder than it should
Might want to inspect your plugs and possibly throw another set in there, nitrous and E do lower the life of them even at 1 step colder.
Maybe an exhaust cut out after the cats, exhaust is where you're being limited but I understand your choice based on where you live. ( I noticed you listed this on the list unsure if you have installed it)
Also since you're running a flex kit maybe ask Seb his opinion on better fuels once you source out the nitrous/fuel issues.
How much E85 do you use when you hit the track? If you end up using 1/2 tank maybe try going to the track at 3/4s.
At a full tank your're carrying about 110lbs
3/4s 80lbs
1/2 54lbs
1/4 27lbs
So based off on how much you actually use you could essentially fill what you'll be using at the track this way you should see better numbers the more you run it.
Yep, that's how I planned to wire the relay. You just gave away my next DIY lol. That will allow the IPDM to run the pump for 1 sec before startup and ECM to take over once car is started like the factory setup. I was thinking of doing a return style setup. But I like doing things in phases, just a tiny change in fuel system delivery can lead to complications and make troubleshooting much more difficult. I do need to check my pIugs, thanks for reminding me . I do have cutouts, I tested with them on and without Nitrous and NA.. Turns out the car makes more torque with them off and less HP. Capping them flips that around a bit. She sounds so good with them off though lol. But I don't need the extra torque... I run a full tank to 3/4 of a tank at the track. The Nitrous hits hard and the gas goes strait to the back of the tank. Which results in it running a little lean, lowest I go would be 2/3 of a tank.
Yep, that's how I planned to wire the relay. You just gave away my next DIY lol. That will allow the IPDM to run the pump for 1 sec before startup and ECM to take over once car is started like the factory setup. I was thinking of doing a return style setup. But I like doing things in phases, just a tiny change in fuel system delivery can lead to complications and make troubleshooting much more difficult. I do need to check my pIugs, thanks for reminding me . I do have cutouts, I tested with them on and without Nitrous and NA.. Turns out the car makes more torque with them off and less HP. Capping them flips that around a bit. She sounds so good with them off though lol. But I don't need the extra torque... I run a full tank to 3/4 of a tank at the track. The Nitrous hits hard and the gas goes strait to the back of the tank. Which results in it running a little lean, lowest I go would be 2/3 of a tank.
I did not think about the gas slosh upon engagement. Typical options are the foam/mat or adding an external tank that can stay pressurized for the nitrous hits. Something to keep in mind what ever you choose has to be under 30lbs for you to take advantage of the less fuel you're storing (ideas if you want to follow this route)
Outside of that you're getting almost out of options in the bolt on dept.
The progressive controller and setting it up correctly will be the key player, you'll have to start with a maybe smaller shot at maybe a lower rpm and step it up to a higher in 3-4th if you want to go faster. Extremely similar to boost by gears on FI setups.
Agreed, the progressive controller is key with a 100 shot and up. Right now I am working on losing 30 pounds of bodyfat gained this year to offset the difference . My new front runners / tires dropped 20 pounds of spring weight and 80 - 200 pounds of weight unspring weight depending on who you ask. There's also less rolling resistance there and better traction for the back tires. I am hoping to shave off 1/10 of a second in the quarter mile with them.
Agreed, the progressive controller is key with a 100 shot and up. Right now I am working on losing 30 pounds of bodyfat gained this year to offset the difference . My new front runners / tires dropped 20 pounds of spring weight and 80 - 200 pounds of weight unspring weight depending on who you ask. There's also less rolling resistance there and better traction for the back tires. I am hoping to shave off 1/10 of a second in the quarter mile with them.
My man!!! working on driver mods I lost 35 in the past 2 years probably a reason why my car feels faster
Wheels are one of the heaviest components of these cars, looking back at your mods you're getting close to running out of options on weight loss car related especially when you want to keep the interior intact.
The two front seats weight an average of 150lbs for comparison, maybe something to think of for the future if you have plans on messing with the interior.
I still suggest you spend some time later with the fuel pump. Creating a better strainer where it can be placed a bit lower in the tank to stay submerged at all times can help you gain the benefits from running lower levels of fuel while still doing it's job.
Most folks are worried about running the car on low fuel due to the system picking up dirt however most vehicles with plastic tanks dont suffer from this. If you've ever removed your pump you can determine if there is actually any dirt in the tank and clean it yourself.
I do have to add that the OEM pump assembly has an internal filter that does get saturated with dirt. Making sure this and the tank is clean along with the correct pick up will have your fueling on point and should yield better times with no added issues.
Hey Bull, I almost upgraded my seats earlier this year. I was going have some low profile brackets built by Cipher Auto. But I backed out of the project when COVID rolled in... I may do that next year if I decide to keep the car a few more years. My fuel pump project has been completed I finished up the relay setup and CJ Bullet Hat install over the weekend. Here's some vids of the installation.
G37 Sedan CJ Motorsports Bullet Fuel Pump Hat Install
Really cool piece. I'm also dealing with fuel pump baskets. I'm working on a 88rx7 upgrading the feed to a 8-an using a Hellcat pump to a bulkhead -8 all the way to the rail and a -6 return.
The affordable option was a bulkhead and a 90deg fitting that with some hammering of the access cover I got everything to fit.
Makes you appreciate aftermarket pump covers.
Trying to fit 12ga wire to those pin sockets suck.
What's your current fastest time? Daniel Shoup recently did a 12.37 in his sedan. your car defintely has potential.
Is that the White G with the velocity stacks in the front grill?
If so I believe that car is ALL motor FBO with JW2 cams. If not said car exists and pulled a similar number which is pretty damn amazing meaning the cams are the way to go. I can only imagine that car on 100shot.
Originally Posted by jdog78
Nice! Best so far is 12.45 on a 70 shot on a up hill track full weight. She now has 100 shot and hasn't been tested on 1/4 yet. 5th was slipping as well on the old trans. I was losing time (not pulling) the last 1/16 mile.
06-21-2020, 01:09 PM
I lost 35 in the past 2 years probably a reason why my car feels faster